Talking about Trane unique patent compressor. How to replace roto lock couplings and the best methods. Thanks for watching! - David David@DavidJonesAC.com Follow me on Facebook: / david-jones-ac-1010702...
Thank you for informing everyone through out all your videos. We are very lucky that people like you take the time to instruct us on how things work and the proper procedures to do things right.
Great video Mr. David. I started to work in hvac back in Louisiana in 2010 thanks to a friend of mine. I love this trade and am always striving to learn as much as I can. I currently live in Mc allen, Tx. Your videos have help me a lot.
thank you for all your time you put into helping better myself and i'm shore others with your videos, i have run into this early in my start and made big mistakes bending the copper. now i know the name of the connections (ROTO LOCKS) so thank you always.
Why do companies suggest replacing the entire hvac unit when just the compressor goes bad? This seems so easy to do and the compressors I’ve found a way cheaper than the $4500 I was quoted.
Sir, I truly appreciate your time and effort. I'm a disabled veteran and obviously I'm not rich so I have to call the lowest priced HVAC, electrician, Carpenter, painter mechanic and general village idiot.... Me!
Nice overview of rotolock fittings, however I would always use a crescent or spud wrench; NEVER a pipe wrench, as used & mentioned by Mr. Jones why not. With a little care, rotolock fittings can be reused & still remain reliable for decades because of their design using a compressed Teflon sealing ring. I have routinely added rotolock fittings to Emerson Copeland scroll compressors (when replacing bad compressors, other inferior brands), prior to installing the compressor into the condenser housing. This makes servicing so much easier & cleaner down the road a decade or more later. And, as all HVAC engineers understand, installing a smaller more efficient compressor (than the original) will make the system more energy efficient, especially if the building owner has made improvements to building insulation &/or the air duct distribution system. Key strategy for maintaining rotolock fittings: After silver soldering or brazing the rotolock fittings, ALWAYS apply a thin layer of anti-seize compound, e.g. Permatex brand, (which prevents threaded fittings from corroding & locking together at a molecular level) to both the female and male threads and the sliding portion of the rotolock fittings. With anti-seize on the threads, the rotolock fitting will remain about as easy to tighten or remove a decade or more later as it was when first installed. Personally, I routinely install Copeland sight-glasses and oversized Sporlan vapor line & liquid line dryers when retrofitting systems. After evacuating, leak checking & recharging with freon, add Spectroline UV leak detector, moisture binder (e/g. NuCalgon A/C EasyDry) and leaker sealer (e.g. NuCalgon A/C EasySeal). While these are several minor increases in expense for parts and materials, they make systems vastly more reliable and easier to troubleshoot for many years thereafter, superior to "new units".
Heat the rotolock nuts with a torch to a hot temperature. The heating up and cooling down provide expansion and shrinkage of the nuts should help sufficiently to break the rust free Let them cool down. Apply the penetrant and let soak a few minutes. Lightly hammer the rotolock nuts, with a hammer or heavy wrench held against the back side of the rotolock to give support the tubing as you "shock" the connection with blows of the hammer. Then use your wrenches to break the fittings loose. .Works well in the biggest majoirty of cases.
Climatuff and spine fin were GE’s patients before 1982. Their Tyler, Texas air conditioning was plant was also bought from them. Trane has upgraded the technology though.
You didn’t talk about the procedure for reinstalling it which is probably more important than the removal, and I do highly suggest always using a back up to prevent twisting of the copper
Sorry if I misinterpreted your slight accent, but a spud wrench is an adjustable with a spike handle , for aligning holes when doing iron work (also could be regional thing too). Also more a shot at Trane, what brass rusts?? Is this a dissimilar metal issues with brass fittings/copper lines? But the REAL question is there a torque spec when tightening?
sounds the same, the fridge ones have a square cross section white gasket/o ring, it fits in a grove in the compressor fitting and a ridge in the pipe fitting compresses it.
