THX Lawrence - gave me a good start into that repair. My door was still locking but making a buzzing sound. Found one tooth was missing from the plastic piece. The cable for the door can be left in place - simply remove it on the other end - this way you dont have to reassemble it afterwards. Overall a 30min repair - thanks again!
You're a good teacher. You speak well and naturally; your pacing is great! I'm going to try to change the actuator gears and this was the tutorial I needed to get at it. THANK YOU!
I have the opposite problem, my drivers door is the only door that opens and all the others don't, I've been told that by replacing the drivers lock it will make the others work 🤷
Anyone have the pin out for the wiring connector on the door latch? I need to find out which wire is the door ajar signal, to see if I can bypass the intermittent connection that's common with this sketchy design. It prevents you from locking the car as a result, until the door is repeatedly opened and slammed shut, until it finally takes hold and stops unlocking all the doors because it thinks the driver just opened the door.
Try the suggestion in the comments of this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bcIPc8FInpM.html I have the same issue and plan on doing the wiring fix suggested there
I have a similar problem where as soon as i press the lock button on the key, it immediately reopens! Slamming the door multiple times usually solves thus issue. Thinking of replacing the latch too but its waaaay overpriced from the local agent...as always..stuck.
I bought the gears too, but I didn't end up needing them, a gear had skipped a tooth but nothing was broken on mine and simple putting it back in right place made it the lock work again. If you haven't already opened up the latch, you'll need a T15 to take it apart iirc, the one next to where the wiring harness plugs in is sort of deep so you might need a longer T15 to reach it.
@@richsigle4824 there weren't any markings that i remember. I had to take it apart and rotate the gears and put it back together several times before I could get it to start working again.
@@richsigle4824 I guessed that it skipped a tooth or a few teeth because it would only unlock but wouldn't lock. As I messed with the gears I got it to lock but not unlock and then was finally able to get it to lock and unlock. In all honesty I don't see how it could have skipped a gear in the first place because everything is packed in there tight, but after moving the gears around it started to work. If your actuator motor is bad adjusting the gears obviously won't help
Hey Great video. I appreciate that this video was three years ago but would you know how to remove the door latch assembly if the door doesn't open? Nothing I do will open the door and the passenger side has no external key lock so I am only just able to see inside the door from inside the van. I am just about able to remove the internal door panel by bending it back. So you can appreciate how much of a nightmare this is becoming. It seems the door latch has seized around the hook a not amount of lubricant will release it. Surely this has happened on other Fords before but so the life of me no one seems have have any details on how to fix the issue.
Actually I did and it took some doing as I spoke to Ford and even they didn’t know what to do… or couldn’t be bothered. So I had to remove the door card which was hard work. It wouldn’t really budge so I had to prise it out while the door was jammed closed. Meant folding it back a lot. Took some damage but worth it. Then once inside the door I managed to removed most of the components from inside the door. It’s been some time now but I even had to drill out some of the lock/latch from the inside. Then I had to replace the whole mechanism. That wasn’t the end of it as I also needed a side lock/latch and rear as well as they had all failed to close together. Even today some days they play up but I worked out that why manually holding down the lock inside the van on what ever door keeps unlocking it eventually resets the system. Ford engineering at its finest. Next time I’m buying German. I hope this helps buddy. It’s really a nightmare of a job is the door lock/latch has ceased while shit. No amount of lube or banging will open that door. You have to come at it from inside the door once the door card has been removed. There is also zero guidance online other than me I think 😬. Shout if you have any issues and I may be able to guide you.
@@davidmelleney6695 Thanks for the reply, sounds like a nightmare. I had a look earlier and quickly realised that the only way is the door card off and then looked at the screws nicely hidden away. I'm just glad I have a half decent MOT left so I have time to get it done before the next test. Thanks for the info, like you say there is no other help with the same issue. It's going to be a pain, I can just tell so I better go and find a new door card ahead. It's getting sold afterwards for sure. If I get stuck I'll let you know 👍
My issues is the cable seems to have come disconnected from the mechanism, I can open the door from the outside but when I pull the inside handle it pulls the cable but nothing happens. Any suggestions if I can repair or do I need a new mechanism?
"The issue I was experiencing: I couldn't lock the driver side door with the remote and sometimes the entire van wouldn't stay locked, it would unlock as soon as I tried to lock it! Troubleshooting pointed to a suspect door latch assembly" I'm having this issue, but the video appears to be for a different issue where the driver door lock isn't locking with the remote.
Are u referring to the green tab at 3:00 in the video? Just pull the left side of it, then it will open sort of like a book and then the rod slides out of the front of it. Lmk if that makes sense... Wish I could have videoed it but it was such a tight space I couldn't figure out how to record it.
