I just saw your video I have an Audi A4 with. Leak in the bell housing it is usually the pilot shaft seal but now I know how to check the torque converter also thank you so much brother
Thanks for the video. Question I have. I separated an engine from tranny (GA6F21WA which is a Aisin TF60-SN I believe) on a 2010 mini cooper, now tranny tc seal is leaking, even with a new seal (twice). Could it be due to a worn bushing, neck of tc is no longer concentric to the bushing and seal, after reinstallation, making the seal leak especially at high engine rpm? If so, I need to replace the bushing. Any easy way without taking the whole tranny apart?
I know on some transmissions ...they don’t have that setup, the have the pump seal o ring on the input shaft....I replaced the main seal, but it still leaked.....pulled the transmission and seen the o ring trashed” I immediately stop driving it when I start hearing noises” lucky for me there was no damage and I ended up replacing the entire torc converter.....due to converterting the supercharger to turbo. Still trying to find a input shaft o ring.....I don’t trust going to Home Depot for one Do you have a small o ring on the input shaft? If so check the o ring” on a 4t65e” it has a main seal and a small o ring on the input shaft....yours might have 3 seals.
I just found out for the 4065E there is a seal that’s on the shaft that goes to the torque converter mine is toast and I’m trying to look for a replacement I have no doubt that that’s what’s causing the leak
I have a th350 I developed a leak in the front seal I replaced the bushing and seal... I noticed some scoring on the shaft of the converter will this cause a leak to happen... It's still leaking with new seal and bushing.
INGENIUS! I have a trans coming out of a Volvo 740 for the second time and this will be what I look at next. P.S.- it just occurred to me I have a device for pressurizing cooling systems to check for leaks- it has a inflatable rubber bulb that is meant to create a seal at the radiator cap opening, and will likely do the same job but without wanting to slip.
Also look at front pump bushing to see if it is tight. If it is an aluminium pump check for cracks. If I have to take a transmission out for more than one tine for a front leak, and can't find anything, I change front pump and torque converter!
My son came home with a bad leak from the front of his transmission coming from the "plug" in the bell housing of his 1996 Ford Mustang GT 4.6L. I will be pulling the transmission in the morning. If it is not something immediately obvious, what should I look to replace to make sure the job get's done correctly: front pump seal, torque converter, and should I do a pump overhaul? (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GZB5XEU/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=AXBNFR3SO17U3&psc=1) or is the pump bushing and gaskets unlikely?
In rare cases, the pump can have a crack in it. This is very rare. You can choose to change the pump if you desire. It will be hard to find the crack. However, here in the shop if there is a leak in the front, I am not going into it again. I will change the torque converter, the from pump bushing, the front pump seal, the front pump oring, front pump gasket (because the gasket may get damaged on take out) and I will clean the bolts with brake cleaner and the surface area. Then with the bolts, I will put silicon around the bolt flanges then tighten them. Make sure you get good silicon, not all are equal.
@@thisisyourtransmission My son had no leaks coming from his transmission in his 1996 Mustang GT. 2 weekends ago, 1/4 mile from home, he left a trail of transmission fluid all down the street and up into the driveway. He came in panicked and I pinpointed the heavy leak coming from the bell-housing plug. We pull the transmission, drained the fluid (it was very clean and so was the magnet in the drain pan). I pulled off the torque converter and the seal was not there. I look at the torque converter and there it was. In preparation for the repair I bought a front pump rebuild kit and a rebuilt torque converter to make sure everything was totally fixed, before reinstalling. Given this scenario: my gut feeling is that this was just a blown seal that leaked a lot the last 1/4 mile that the car was driven home. It is hard for me to believe that this is anything more than the seal that was completely out of the pump. Advice needed: should I do anything more than just replacing the seal and reinstalling? I have never opened up a tranny before, but have done a lot of research during the last two weeks. Should I rebuild the front pump (I have all the parts to do it) or just put on a new seal and reinstall? New Torque converter (or I could just take back the unopened box and save some money)?
@@TheLaubachs you need to take the pump out and replace the front pump bushing also. If the front pump bushing is worn, the seal will blow out too. The bushing holds back about 90 percent of the fluid. The seal holds the other 10 percent. If you are going to take it out replace the bushing.
@@thisisyourtransmission OK, thanks for the info. Given the above scenario of no leaking prior to the big leak (blown seal), do you figure the pump rebuild will do it.
Thanks for teaching me something new, I’m looking at a leak on my moms grand voyager where it meets the engine. It’s going to a shop. Too much work for me at home.
What an invaluable lesson my friend. I'm about to install my 5.0 engine on my 1989 Mustang convertible, engine that I rebuilt myself that I know, no shop could do such careful work. But it dawned on my this morning before installing the engine, to replace the seal on the my AOD transmission. It's the front tranny seal, the one that actually goes into the front pump. I'll be replacing the rear tailshaft seal also. As for the front pump seal, I'm debating whether to use a ford OEM seal or a FELPRO, perhaps TIMKEN. If I use a FORD OEM seal, I have to order it at my local FORD dealership, which means I can't install the engine today. I shouldn't have anxiety over postponing installing the engine since I do have my primary car. Then I came across your video & glad I did because now I gotta head out to Home Depot & Harbor Freight to make a similar tool like yours to test the torque converter since the engine and tranny have been sitting for 5 years before I rebuilt the engine last week. Better safe than sorry. Thanks for this invaluable video, I have no idea why 33 idiots gave your video a thumbs down/dislike.
Looks like your shop is like my "Performance Transmission" Shop is. Have an 02' Blazer with a 4L60E Transmission that had a broken Sunshield 18k miles ago. I was told I needed a new rebuild & Torque converter. $2200 later, I had to take it back 4 times because of rear seal leaks & shifter linkage leaks & pan gasket leaks. Now, I was driving my Son 7 miles to work & was at the store when I noticed Trans Fluid pouring out the bottom of the bellhousing! I had Triple A tow it back that Crappy shop & they can't look it for another 4 days. I'm hoping a coolant line popped off but I'm sure the Torque converter or Rront Pump Seal blew! It was running & shifting fine. No prior symptoms besides a slight whinny noise that started since the rebuild & I took it back 2 times they told me it was my AC Clutch kicking on & off. I said, it does it with the AC Off! The Torque converter they put in was Blue. All of their Techs are ASE Certified but I don't know where they went to school. That tranny should last 150k miles the way I drive. I don't tow, etc. Just drive less than 5k miles a year.
I've got a problem with a 24 valve Cummins I pulled the transmission and changed the front pump seal,reinstall tyranny exact same thing. I checked for Crack in pump on trans and didn't notice and going to mote Tham likely pull trans back out,thank you very valuable information
Brake kleenex. compressed air to clean area then hit it with some leak trace powder...that powder really helps pinpoint the leak instantly . Would work great in conjunction with your Macgiver air pressure tool. Pretty ingenious tool you made there.
Very Smart Sir that is a new one wouldn't expect that kind of nightmare from a factory defect that would come to haunt you! thankyou very much for sharing 👍
I would’ve probably tested that the first time I did the warranty work for the leak just because it had to be pulled anyways concerning the front seal. It only takes seconds to do and saves a lot of unnecessary labor removing it again.
Understandable, however, when a part is supposed to be rebuilt by professionals in factories, (and tested as they say) it is easy to not blame them, for many assume at times ( me included) that they do not make mistakes.
I have a 2011 ford crown victoria, i got the transmission rebuilt and after I installed it it would not go into gear, i sent the whole car back to the shop and they said the front transmission pump keeps breaking and they cannot find out what it causing it, they said they've used 2 different transmissions and torque converters, have any idea on what could be causing the transmission pump to keep failing??
Tearing into my front transmission leak later today. Thanx for the heads up on what to look for. All I know is something major let loose. small leak to massive leak with one engine rev. Almost has to be a seal that popped out but there's only one way to know for sure.
I have been battling transmission leaking problems for over a year and low and behold your test trick showed that my torque converter was the problem after a trans shop said they rebuilt it. Bull shit, all they did is give it a new paint job and mark it as done. I had to remove and install my trans 6 times overall and because I finally did the work myself I finally have a drip free Hot Rod Corvette for the first time in three years. NEVER GIVE UP. YOU CAN DO IT !!!!!!!
Why I don't take my vehicles to a shop unless it's exhaust work, front end alignment and new tires. I'll buy rebuilt tranny's from a parts store before I let some rip off shop rebuild one. Most can't or won't do it anyways, and some who do won't do it right... just out to make a quick buck.
@@thisisyourtransmission the bolts are tight and I don't see a visual crack in the pump, thanks for the help. Maybe now I can get what I need to fix it
