I'm always shocked at how rich and full the pluvia 7.2HDs are. I haven't heard the transmission line variant yet. Now I'm curious. Great work on the build!
ВОПРОС ИЗ РОССИИ МОЖНО?НЕ СОВСЕМ ПОНИМАЮ 1)КАК МОЖЕТ ХОРОШО ИГРАТЬ МАЛЕНЬКИЙ ШИРОКОПОЛОСНЫЙ ДИНАМИК? 2)КОНСТРУКЦИЯ ФАЗОИНВЕРТОРА ОЧЕНЬ СПОРНАЯ-ТАКАЯ БЫЛА ТОЛЬКО У TANNOY 3)ПОЧЕМУ ВЫ ЗВУК ИЗМЕРЯЕТЕ ДИКТОФОНОМ ТASCAM -А НЕ ИЗМЕРИТЕЛЬНЫМ МИКРОФОНОМ?
Great build! Mark Audio Pluvia Eleven Transmission Line Speakers ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JPcCGKltvqA.html Back To My Roots - Mark Audio CHN-70 Transmission Line Speakers ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8CSoKFLjQlk.html Mark Audio Alpair 12P Transmission Line Speakers ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jV0Ljnn8L0s.html As for the real thing,I did have a pair of CHN-70's in a t-line, until I accidentally put a knee into one of the drivers and that was that. However, Mark Audio make killer fullrange drivers, that rival even exotica fullrange drivers IMO, and I miss them dearly!
Thanks. Not the money yet for the next step up in drivers but for the average sized room, I find the Markaudio are superb. Will check out the other builds you have suggested.
Which design with these Pluvia 7.2HD's sounds better the previous book shelf build or this one? I bought a pair but have not made my mind up about the plans, I have to weigh up space in the house vs what I want in sound characterics.... I am a PRO-crastinator.
They are roughly the same size. Depends on looks. I prefer these, the wife the other ones!! Sound wise, possibly these are slightly better. It could be because the drivers have now had plenty of run in time. (same driver set as 1st build) you won't be disappointed but go with what's going to look best in your home. Make them your own!!!
Sexy looking driver. I always find it curious when people play recordings of a speaker, to demonstrate its sound. Its kind of like reviewing a meal and its flavor, solely based on someone else describing how it tastes. Because all you actually hear, is your speakers. And your speakers (and full audio chain), adds it's own color to the sound. Its frankly pretty funny how so many people don't realize this when watching speaker "demos".
Сначало вырезать детали,потом досконально отфрезеровать,засверлить отверстия,продуть,собрать,оклейка шпоном,финальная сборка. Только так а не как в видео. Ибо столько трухи и опилок попало внутрь что нормального звука не жди.
@@DIY-AUDIO You can't collect everything and blow it out. Plus the already glued noise absorber. I myself periodically make columns and communicate with people who do it professionally.Therefore, I point out that it will interfere with normal sound.
Sometimes the RU-vid algorithms recommend exactly what I want 😁 I fancy building a pair of my own speakers after I made a hybrid pair of floorstanders using 60s Dynatron cabinets and 70s Celestion Ditton 15xr drivers and crossovers. Pure luck but they sound great with my Quad amps & LP12. Definitely interested in creating a pair of these myself
As its not a 'high' end/powered build I personally don't expect any noticeable problems with using the wire I did especially as it's about a foot long, or the female connectors (I assume this is what you meant by press in clips?)
Transmission line speakers should avoid perpendicular corner and parallel planes. A good design of transmission line speaker was published in the August 1977 edition of the magazine Electronics Today International from Australia. I have assembled 2 pairs, they perform very smooth. Sorry for my bad language. Thank you
I haven't heard the 'le Petit' in action and haven't tried the Fostex driver usually used in that build. All I can say is that in my opinion the Markaudio drivers are excellent (for the money) once run in and although I like this design (the one I built here) , I personally think it's slightly over engineered as there is no resonance from the cabinet at all. Some think this is how it should be but, for a full range driver and the type of music I listen to, I personally like a little resonance (think acoustic guitar) . This may be achieved by building in Plywood as apposed to MDF though.
I need to buy another router so i can do some speaker projects. Ive been eyeing up one of those CSS bookshelf kits but the boxes they supply you with are lackluster to say the least. I figure rounding off some edges and covering it with cherry veneer will make them look like they cost as much as they do. 😅
The little hand router I do have is perfectly fine for under £40GBP. Build them yourself, take time on finishing them and they will look fantastic I am sure!! A kit would be bottling out especially if you have some tools yourself or get your timber suppler to make the cuts for you. There are loads of builds online!
It dosnt look like a transmission line system as there is a compression chamber and the vent length doesn't look long enough for tuning in the sub bass region for a transmission line but it does look the right size for a low tuned bass reflex
Very interesting video. Markaudio Pluvia 7.2HD Drivers are very good, I also would like to do a similar speaker cabinet design for these drivers or for the SB Acoustics SB20FRPC30-8 8" Paper Full Range, I have seen very good reviews about this speaker and it would be an interesting project to do. 🙂
Thanks, It's a great driver in my opinion for the money (takes a bit of running in) but just seems to sound better as time goes on!! Loads of cabinet plans on the Markaudio website
@@DIY-AUDIO yes, and because it's a full range it's simpler to build as it doesn't need a crossover. I also would like to find cabinet plans or open baffle plans for the more cheap SB Acoustics SB20FRPC30-8 8" Paper Full Range but the few I find are big floor-standing cabinets that are too big for my space, so maybe Markaudio Pluvia 7.2HD or the Markaudio CHP-90 Drivers are a good option too because they are smaller and they have a lot of speaker cabinet plans in MarkAudio website. Thank you for the demonstration video, I find it very useful.
I'm impressed with the sound and it's not SHOUTY, without a correction filter. And (of course the bass is A1, being a trans). But it doesn't seem to sparkle enough. What I would suggest is an easy filter. 0 .22 mh inductor and a 2.2 electrolytic cap in parallel. I tried electrolytics and ceramic caps on FR drivers and tweeters. On FR drivers, electos sounded way better. More silky and less clangy (FR drivers tend to be clangy). But on soft dome tweeters, ceramic caps sound way better than electros. Ceramics give the wissy tweeters more clang. Another way to get more sparkle: Get cheap FR drivers (without the whizzer cone, or get rid of it) and use the drivers for this experiment: With a razer blade cut right through the cone. Make 8mm cuts all around the cone like only 3mm out from the voice coil tube. And have 5mm gaps between the cuts (that is not cut). Repeat on the dust cap if it's possible and repeat again like 1 cm out from the voice coil tube on the main cone. You can buy new DACs, buy new amps and streamers and new cartidge and turntable (and phono stage) and mono blocks in place of an integrated amp...but no upgrade will beat this easy little mod! The best treble you ever heard (even better that tweeters). Definitely worth trying. My $8 cheapies are 5" FR drivers and they (with several other acoustic features) are the best speakers I heard. They are semi open cones (with the mod) and it's semi omni directional with a big gap between the driver and the speaker box hole (with a short bass vent tube under the same hole). 😅 Witch stops the BONKY sound (I say "witch" cos it's magic). The driver gap is achieved by extension screws and flexible hose for the spacers. Bass level is no different to a traditional bass vent desigh. Even the bass vent is point source! Pure point source along with the advantage of bass reflex! Holographic off the scale! Med is open and 3D and also warm (instead of cold and thin and harsh, like fully open drivers). It's that open cone sound (witch again gives more khz) combined with the warm sound just like regular speakers. They smoke my (bought) regular 2-ways. More sparkle! More 3D and airy and way more spread of the highs. I have an unusual semi omni direction top mounting of the single driver on top of the ennclosures. This helps spread a lot, sounds nearly the same snywhere in the room. Yep I got filters on the drivers as well. Has the full range sound of 2-ways and 3ways with one driver cos of the slits in the drivers make it perform just like tweeters. Same glissy sound! But better cos tweeter are usually closed in, these aren't.
@@DIY-AUDIO. I guess it could be a t-line I’m just use to t-lines as using the port as the enclosure like a 1/4 wave t-line that’s tuned to the f.s of the sub/speaker
Hi mate, very nice build ! I've planned to do the same one as a Christmas present ! How does it perform on the lower frequencies ? I'm listening from techno to classic music, so bass and high are important for me haha
I reckon yes. Just google the type of music that you play most. I find these Full Range drivers are good for vocals and jazz, classical but if you are into heavy rock you may want different
Have you try make a bigger one like 8 inch and 10 inch drive . Lately I found a single drive Lii song silver 10 inch drive sound very very good think of diy one pair
impressed with your video . q... your awl , very handy tool , it almost looks like its spring loaded , normally you need to apply force to create a starter hole. out of query what do you think of Sibelius speakers . also using a Mark audio driver , but prefinished in oak , you have the necessary equipment to make your self . but a lot don't i believe they charge about 4500 euros (10,000 Canadian , do you find that a bit pricey thx
Awl, guess you mean the centre punch? If so, yes it's spring loaded. (Cheap on ebay or Amazon) Regards to the Sibelius, yes they do appear expensive but they are completely hand made out of solid wood and I guess with that in mind and the research in design etc it's reflected in the price. Compared to some speakers in the 10's or 100's thousands they represent good value to some and do look clvery classic! Personally though I'll never be able to afford them and will be attempting my own version later this year.
Hello! Very nice build, and a helpful video for all DIYers. Congratulations! Please let me know what veneer edge trimmer do you use? Any link should be useful. Thanks!
Hi, thanks for the positive comments. I use a cheap hand router. It's listed in the description of the video Katsu and some flush mount bits. It's lasted really well for the money. Here is link for you to save you looking. amzn.to/3X24EyH
No, cotton wool simulates space (volume) and the path becomes longer. You use cotton wool when the housing is closed to simulate (increase) the volume, so you have a larger volume and you also insulate.. But never reflexively.. If you want to do that, just put the back of the speaker against the wall. not more.. greets@@DIY-AUDIO
A true t/l speaker as a constant finishing taper from the rear of the driver to the port ... I'd expect the port for this speaker to be a lot less in surface area than what is depicted in this video ... and lastly what exactly was that black material you placed in the port ?
It's a build from Markaudio specifically for the driver (link is in description). It's a piece of the same polyester wadding that the speaker is lined with (sprayed black)
@@DIY-AUDIO the proof is in the listening ... this isn't possible on you tube obviously ... this design looks very like a damped reflex ( ported ) system bordering on an aperiodic design ... the impedance curves for a t/l design and aperiodic are very similar . I don't like the wadding sprayed black ... a much better grill would be a small piece of expanded aluminium with edges formed at 90° and glued into position .. this can be sprayed semi gloss black and would perform very well
@@janinapalmer8368 well Janina, thanks for your input. If I had the money and know how, I would of loved to make an aluminium grill but as I don't I didn't!! Oh, and as you say the proof is in the listening and yes, it's superb!! 😁
Janina, if I’m not mistaken, this class of loudspeaker enclosure is more accurately categorized as MLTL - “mass loaded transmission line”, a term that I first heard used in the extensive engineering work published by Martin J King over 20yrs ago. It’s a modelling concept that was eagerly adopted by the DIY community, and there are numerous very success designs incorporating the precepts that do not require tapering of the line. The combination of careful placement of the driver and damping of the line with absorbent materials, consistent cross sectional area of the line, and area of the terminus are all carefully calculated for the T/S parameters of the bespoke drivers. While I didn’t notice accreditation on the referenced drawing, this enclosure bears all the hallmarks of designs by Scott Lindgren, who has a very extensive library of designs of which I’d personally built dozens during my active DIY career - the overwhelming majority of which were with various models of Mark Audio drivers. To another point raised in this comment thread, the smaller size range of MA drivers ( i.e. 7cm and below) definitely benefit from judicious bass management via HP filtering and separate woofers when applied for use in larger rooms or at higher volumes. I’m currently using an early generation of Alpair 10 for the front row of a 7.1 system in a moderate sized room (340sq ft), with the crossover to LFE at THX recommended 80Hz, and have yet to encounter any issues at my normal SPLs below 90dB. Also using Pluvia 7 for front heights and Alpair 6 for rear surrounds; if the basement room’s layout could accommodate a full 9.2.4 Atmos system I’d be all over that, but hey, first world problems, right?
@ricocasilli3307 how many more 180 degree turns inside the cabinet volume does it need before it counts as transmission line instead of ported with extra turns in the airflow path? Is a sealed box just a ported box with the port covered 🤔?
