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True. Just replace the exact amount you take out BUT on a car that has been OFF over night. Ones the oil gets hot and expands - You’re in for the more advanced procedure.
Once again, I have said it before this is just a general procedure that I simplified for some people who are do-it-yourselfers who may not be able to "accurately" check the level. There will be a lot of variations from vehicle to vehicle when you do a drain and fill, but the level will still get pretty close. Very slightly overfilled/underfilled should not cause problems. The vehicle would have to be really stone cold or really really hot in order for it to become a problem. The fluid expands when it gets hot, but not that much as to what others think. Especially in hot summer weather when you do a drain and fill. You will still be OK. At the very end I always recommend to check the level regardless after any transmission service to be on the safe side.
Also, on cars that still have dipsticks for their transmissions there is always a range for the COLD and HOT marks. As long as the fluid falls in between those ranges depending if the vehicle is HOT or COLD then it should be OK. The same/similar concept applies to these transmissions on these Toyota vehicles. They work in the same way except no dipstick to check the level conveniently.
double-check your level people , because putting in what came out may not be enough, .. I've always found that after 60,000 your transmission is about a quart short, the same thing with engine oil, after 3000 miles the engine is a quart short, you can prove it to your self by filling up the containers your new oil came in ,it won't fill them all up
It's always a good idea to double check the level if you can because some DIYs may not be able to and so I simplified it for them in this video. But I know this transmission takes roughly 3.0 to 3.5 liters for a drain and refill so you won't have any problems. This Camry has over 320 k kilometers on it now since bought used at 94 k and I'm the only one who services it and this transmission is still going strong.
Yes, the customer requested it to be changed so that is what I did. That's what the customer wants. They do regular service on this transmission hence why it's very clean.
Yes, same engine and transmission for the 2011. Do the service. Transmissions still require routine maintenance just like oil changes, but not as often. There are a lot of metal and moving parts such as the clutch packs, gears, synchronizers, solenoids, etc. inside the transmission that rely on clean and proper lubrication to keep the hydraulic components functioning properly. Heat is what breaks down the transmission fluid and so the fluid is not as effective in protecting those components as when it was new. Draining the old fluid will help keep the contaminants out that may be circulating with the old fluid already. The contaminants are due to wear and tear from the various moving parts. Some of the contaminants will be caught by the transmission filter and the magnet(s) inside the pan and some will still be circulating in the fluid. Doing it routinely will help keep the longevity of the transmission. I hope that helps.
Hi friend, firstly, excellent video. You explain everything perfectly and make it look easy. Second, I have a question; I just bought a used 2011 2.5l camry with about 75k miles on it. The transmission fluid has never been changed. The transmission fluid pan has a little inwards dent near the front, like the previous useowner hit a speed bump too fast and bent it. Is that a concern? Should it be straightened or outright replaced? It shifts perfectly right now as it is. And nother question, when I change the fluid at this mileage, do I need to worry about changing the transmission filter or not? When should it be changed? Sorry for the long comment and thanks in advance in case you answer.
Hello, if the dent is tiny and not that big then it's not a big deal it is not a need for concern. I have seen many dings and dents on oil and transmission pans and don't affect driveability or the parts of the vehicle. Unless the dent is very big and causing problems then I would change the pan, but if it's tiny I would leave it alone. It's OK to change the fluid at that mileage. There's really no need to change the transmission filter/screen as it is an unnecessary item to replace on these vehicles unless you just want to change it out you can, but it's not entirely necessary to do so on these vehicles. The only time you would need to change the transmission filter is if the system has been contaminated with some other fluid and/or debris. Especially, it is low miles I wouldn't worry about it I would just change the fluid. I hope that helps.
That's pretty low. You have to make sure that you are removing the overflow plug to get more of the fluid out. Also, you should probably check the level in this case if you're able to just to verify the correct level.
You would have to get the vehicle on level ground and check the level at operating temperature with engine running. Usually between 95 and 113 F. That's the only way to be sure at that point. The fluid in there may or may not be enough. So checking the level would be the only way.
sorry if stupid....2or 3 quarts is needed ? you cant get it all out of the torque converter.....I used Valvovine MAX life in my mercedes E320 full synthetic atf.....same is good for Toyota AISIN tranny ?
There's nothing stupid about asking questions that's OK. We all need help one way or the other. If the bottles you use go by quarts I would have 4 quarts on hand just in case. The transmission may need up to 3 quarts or so it depends. You may need 3 liters approx, so 3 quarts and a bit is needed. You may need to check the level as well to be accurate if you're able to. Valvoline Max Life should be OK to use.
I drain the transmission fluid, Replace it wit the same amount that came out . Run the car . Drain the fluid . replaced it . I did it three times. This way I know it’s 90 % fresh clean fluid in my 2004 Mazda 6 3.0 L . 260 thousand miles on it. 😊
Yes, you can contact me via E-mail in the About page or just send me an E-mail: moose.mobile.auto.repair1 at gmail dot com (This is just to prevent spam).
Hey buddy! This Camry gearbox has about 6.5 litres of atf. You removed only half of the fluid, the rest is inside of torque converter. You did only step 1 here. Step 2: release the hose that comes out of the gearbox and goes to the cooler ( the round thing in the front, just above the gearbox), put another hose to drain the fluid out and turn the engine on until you see that the new atf you just put in starts draining out. Turn on the engine and put as much atf as came out. Don't forget to check the atf level at the end. You didn't change the filter either, it needs to be replaced, otherwise one day you are going to have noise from the gearbox and it will break down shortly after that. Good luck!
This video is just a basic drain and fill. It is not a flush. Customer only wants the basic service at the time of this video so I am paid to perform the basic service only. Fluid level was checked off camera. I have a separate video on that. This vehicle has had many transmission services in the past including dropping the pan and filter/screen on this particular one. The fluid is already clean so no need to do a flush on it. Flushing is only needed when the transmission hasn't had a service and the fluid is very very dark then flushing would be beneficial. 6.5 liters is the overhaul/total capacity of the transmission. A drain and fill only gets a 1/3 of the fluid out. 2015 Toyota Sienna AWD 3.5 V6 - U660F - Transmission Flush Service ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oheIva_Ryqw.html Check Transmission Fluid Level No Dipstick On Toyota Vehicles - U760E | U660E ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8FcbS47_gDE.html
Oh, got it now. Sorry for my misunderstanding the two words: drain and flush. Here, in Turkmenistan, we do only flushing with changing the filter. And that's done approximately every 50-80 thousand miles. Actually, I own a silver 2011 Camry imported from the States too😊, very nice and reliable car. Thanks for the video and explanation!
Yes, this one had 331,500 Kilometers before the owner sold the car as he got a newer vehicle. The transmission on this one was still going without any issues. I agree with you though. Flushing and changing the filter is best, but the customers here can't afford for such a service as that takes a lot more time and fluid. So in most cases we just do a drain and fill which is the minimum service required when servicing a transmission.
No need to worry about that. As long as the level is OK. It doesn't have to be perfect as long as it's close. Usually a drain and fill will take around 3 liters. Sometimes a bit more like 3.5 liters.
I have a 2011 toyota camry which gives a clunking sound on the first acceleration for the first 2 gears after a cold/warm startup. I'm confused about whether it's the CV axles or the transmission is failing. Can someone share their thoughts?
For something like that a clunking sound is most likely a bad inner cv joint in one or both of the axles. Most likely a left side cv axle. You can try to duplicate the problem while putting the transmission in drive or in reverse. Use your left foot to hold the brake and the right foot to snap the accelerator briefly while doing this. This can be used to check for bad engine/transmission mounts as well. You may need a helper to confirm the source of the noise. Please proceed with caution with this test and making sure nobody is in front or behind the vehicle. You can use wheel chocks for safety. The clunking noise will also happen from a stand still if the cv axle(s) are very bad such as if you accelerate or hit the brakes at slow speeds. If you can't duplicate the problem using what I stated here then I would check/change the transmission fluid if it has never been done.
@@adisolomon007 I have a short video clip of a similar problem which I will link it to you here because I have worked on these Camrys before. I'd suggest replacing the fluid first to see if any change then maybe condemn the left side axle. Let me post the link here for you: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xPKPXcO4gMU.html
I wouldn't do it hot/warm because think of it this way, when it's hot tranny fluid expands, so let's say you have a hot car.. you take off 5 quarts of hot fluid for example.. then you will put 5 quarts back cause you gotta put in what you drop out right.. then that 5 quarts of cold you will put in will expand to God knows how much and then you will have an over flown tranny .. if you have a dipstick then that's a different story ..
God bless you sir I'm doing the same transmission sir that you are in my camera is a 2010 with a transmission u760e and I will be buying the max life and I really appreciate you showing me that ☺️ but I'm hoping to change the filter and inside the transmission wrong with the gasket call I'm working on it's got 2 17,000 me I don't want to take a risk it may be really dirty plus I want to clean the magnets .do do you mind me asking what kind of spray did you spray to use that cleaner was that gasoline or or something else
Pls my 2010 used camry i got 4 months ago, i serviced the gear and changed the oil and i used it dor four month but the gear just stopped picking all of a sudden, could ot be the transmission fluid, do i need to change it again?
Is the transmission slipping? Do you have any trouble codes stored for the transmission computer TCM or ECM? Check for trouble codes first to see if any. If a transmission is already slipping then most likely it is on its way out. You can try to change the transmission fluid and hopefully it might help it's worth a try. Unless you have a problem related to the engine driveability causing the transmission to feel like its slipping then you would need to check that first. I would check to see if there are any trouble codes stored first and go from there.
It's in a separate video in the description and comments section. Check Transmission Fluid Level No Dipstick On Toyota Vehicles - U760E | U660E | U660F: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8FcbS47_gDE.htmlsi=8XFIgdDRdeUV8DVq
In your other responses to others you say gotta get it to operating temps to get an accurate reading. But in this video you don’t ? Just remove the overflow tube and fill back what drained out ..measure it .
You will need to check the fluid level at the specified temperature stated by the manufacturer in order to do it properly. I have a video on that in the description and comments. I tried to simplify it for some do-it-yourselfers because some may not be able to check the level comfortably on their own.
