No video :(

Transom Jigsaw Puzzles

Подписаться 231 тыс.

Просмотров 24 тыс.

50% 1

Alright, I need to call on the wisdom of the group here to make sure I'm not over looking something obvious lol! I THINK this is going to work out, but for some reason when I look at this transom my brain shuts down and says "NOPE" :-/
Any thoughts or comments are much appreciated!
Support the companies that help to make these videos possible (their products are the best otherwise I would not be using them!!) Learn more about them below:
- Totalboat: bit.ly/2X4wT0ZT...
- Alexseal Yacht Coatings: bit.ly/2tdNzZKA...
- SoftSand Rubber Nonskid Discount 10% OFF when you use code BWT10
www.softsandrub...
* Order Total Boat Supplies HERE and Help Support Boatworks Today with your purchase!:
bit.ly/2E1a0or
** Looking for help with your project? Check out my Patreon page for consultation options!
/ boatworkstoday
*** Need help choosing the best resin for your project? Download our fiberglass Resin Guide:
bit.ly/2PCr72e
**** Subscribe To This Channel!!
www.youtube.co...
***** Shop our Amazon store for the materials used in this video!
www.amazon.com...
There is additional content and ad-free versions of these video’s available for Patreon supporters! Please click below to find out more!!
/ boatworkstoday
#BoatworksToday #TotalBoat #Alexseal

Опубликовано:

6 сен 2024

Ссылка:

Скачать:

Готовим ссылку...

Добавить в:

Мой плейлист

Посмотреть позже

Комментарии : 190

@duanemiller5606 3 года назад

Instead of grinding down the high spot why not fill the low spot with glass. Put small patches of fiberglass into the low spots and create a single plane for the Coosa to lay on.

@tomfitzgibbon6691 3 года назад

Andy, why not even out the transom thickness with fiberglass and then once it’s even apply the Coosa?

@Skyrmir 3 года назад

I was wondering the same, either glass, or even filler with chop strand, then grind to shape and apply Coosa.

@nathanbutler8240 3 года назад

Yeah thats what I was gonna say thats looks like all glass down already anyways. I would just lay more glass down till it was one even flat plane then put the Coosa down

@jcdesignsandboat-works8290 3 года назад

Also, don’t beat yourself up over a single sheet of core. The way a cored structure works as long as it’s all encapsulated as one, then it essentially is one.

@stevenr8606 3 года назад

⬆️👏 exactly what Mads (Sail Life) did.

@ConfusedSoul24 3 года назад

Andy, you're mind plays tricks on you. All of the load on the transom is on the attachmentpoints of the extension. Up on top it doesn't matter at all. Put in a beam horizontally along the attachment points. Anything above that is only for aesthetics. Make sure to bond the horizontal beam with the longitudinal stringers and you're done from a structural point of view. The rest is just fairing, sanding and paint.

@edac1078 3 года назад

This makes the most sense to me. When I did my transom 25 years ago I used a 4"x1/4" aluminum strap at the motor mounts, still works great.

@tamaralee4108 3 года назад

ConfusedSoul24 - What you suggested with the beam, is exactly what I did across the transom of my boat when I installed a dual outboard transom bracket. Worked fine.

@rumnboats7612 2 года назад

I agree, however you need to understand the way an outboard torques one direction sideways, pulls the top out and pushes in on the bottom mounting point. I think his overthinking is worth while.

@carmanrt13 3 года назад

Rather then risk sanding through the transom, sand the Coosa instead. Thinning the Coosa at the proud areas. This will allow dry fitting, until you have the desired finish. This may or may not be more labor intense, but it will allow you to see the finished product, before committing to the repair.

@CWsurf 3 года назад

I agree without Rick. sand the Coosa. Don’t sand through the transom.

@jeanmarcpisapia 3 года назад

I agree with Rick.

@tobiash1541 3 года назад

Referring back to the Boston whaler sheriff's boat you had a similar issue. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-al-OmrHRr6g.html. Epoxy the coosa to the first plane then sand flush to your next plane. Instead of having a seam. Why not have your filler piece extend all the way to the bottom avoiding the two areas near the stringers. Hopefully referring to your old work you find something that helps. Also, if you ever find time. Or are in need of some content I'm sure a lot of us here would love a shop tour. ( a previous request I left in your how to template the transom video)

@christopherpadrick7706 3 года назад

I had to noodle this out myself with a 1972 Formula 233 with the curved transom and bumpout. Ended up laying up a flat panel of 8 layers of 1708 then installing into the boat with tabbing and some spacers glued to original transom skin to maintain correct gap. Then i poured Seacast into the void from the top. Built my own fiberglass bracket and swim platform from molds constructed of melamine. Through bolted and epoxied to stern. I would not hesitate to clamp twin 300 outboards to this beast. Bulletproof.

@WaterfrontJustin 3 года назад

Why wouldn't you be able to use a 2 inch thick sheet and router cut out the transom high spots. You can make a mold of the transom shape and use that as a guide for where to hog material out of the 2 inch board. To me this seems like a lot of work but also a way to end up with your 1 piece transom.

@ardcost1 3 года назад

Hi Andy, what about using thickened resin with lots of chopped strand fibers mixed through it to make a structural putty to fill out the hollows, like plastering a wall to make a “flat”working surface for glass and coosa. After all you are through bolting the transom bracket to catch everything. So you just need to eliminate the voids behind the coosa.

@jcdesignsandboat-works8290 3 года назад

Andy, you could lay up a piece of coosa that marries up to your center portion but leaves the small gaps where they are, tab in all sides and bottom, then use sea cast pour transom to fill the voids. That would give you a flat surface on inside while leaving you with a solid transom and be the easiest solution in my opinion.

@michaela1655 3 года назад

Glass it Andy! The beauty of fiberglass is the ability to shape it during layup.

@archbuilder71 3 года назад

I really appreciate your videos, and enjoy watching them. I have not worked with coosa before, so it has been interesting watching you work with it. I have been on some of the boat forums, so I know transom construction can get a bit "opinionated" lol to say the least. I have built a couple with seacast and have been very happy with them. I built an inner skin for both of them, and then filled it with seacast. Fairly strait forward with oddball shapes. Just a thought, I am sure whatever you do will work well. You have exceptional craftsmanship, something you don't see much anymore.

@4englishlies875 3 года назад

Clear as mud, lol that made my morning. Just out of curiosity why can't you just piecemeal the transom until you get a some what level and then add the large backing. The top looks like on video, a V shape going out add there then level off and do that until you could add large backers. FYI I have not much experience in this just an idea from what I saw on the video. In person things will probably look different maybe.?

@ascott6804 3 года назад

I've never found myself messing with fiberglass so I can't help. Lol!! Something needs to be really beefy with those big ass motors on the back!!

@richardmondor1360 3 года назад

Andy, your talking about removing that upper 3/4" bump(?) so you can make basically a brow out of coosa....why not just make a router cut in the coosa to match instead? Is the risk not less this way? I would hate to see all that removal work and then your still not level because you can almost see outer gel coat color coming through. If you were OCD about it you could make a quick template of the bump and transfer it to the coosa. Heck, could you just not "window" the coosa in that area and back fill it with thickened resin after all the goal is leveling the whole thing anyways for the next layer right?

@mikekaplan4083 3 года назад

Just thinking you could add another 1/2 inch layer of coosa of the same size you already installed on top of existing piece then use thin strips of coosa on outside to build up to center section. And finally a larger section of coosa over existing and strips to form a lamination or some glass over all then the final coosa. This is assuming you have to go another couple of layers anyway.

@oldscuba 3 года назад

Just a thought, I'm not a boat builder but I am a builder, As you want to strengthen stern would it not work by installing two strong-backs horizontally, tying them into the sides, this would give you three smaller areas to build up the thickness which may end up being stronger and easier.......Divide and conquer!!

@MyBoatandMylife 3 года назад

The strength lies in the fact that it is a slatted construction, I think you can have as many joints in a foredeck with balsa wood. Am I wrong?

@stevewalden3814 3 года назад

I suggest that you think of the transom as a horizontal driveway project - and not as a vertical wallboard project. When you are making a smooth driveway - you only care that the "top layer" is smooth. You don't care so much that the concrete is different depths in different places. I suggest that you use 1/4" or 1/2" or 1" coosa board to fill in the "holes" - until you can achieve a "flat" surface everywhere. Then, get the final one or two layers - which can cover the entire area.

@steveburton5825 3 года назад

I think what I'd do Andy is to not go to 1/2" Coosa but build it up in layers with much smaller dimensional board. The thinner stuff will be easier to bend to match the curvature of the hull and get better contact between layers. Once you have enough layers to get to one consistent level, then you can put on one thick sheet to encapsulate all of it and make it pretty (I really don't think that the layers will affect the structure as long as they are well tied into the adjoining and underlying layers).

@todddunn945 3 года назад

I wouldn't worry too much about seams. When a new cored hull is built there are lots of seams between pieces of core material. If you are putting in multiple layers just stagger the seams. Then when you glass over the inside, run the glass across the seams. New construction is so much easier than repair. Are you going to vacuum bag the coosa when you bond it to the hull?

@boatworkstoday 3 года назад

Hey Todd, probably not going to vac bag as there's so many surface details I doubt I'd be able to get a good seal :-/ Likely going to be old school with a bunch of bracing in the middle (the sides will be forced into position as the transom is curved :-)

@todddunn945 3 года назад

@@boatworkstoday I was thinking it might be hard to seal the Coosa you have fit now due to possible leaks around the edges.

@VacFink 3 года назад

If I had to template out and sort out the sanding in advance, I'd cut and sand various thickness of pink insulation foam into the shapes I need to test the theory/approach and modify from there. You can cut and sand that stuff in seconds and use the shapes as templates and do the roughing from the bench. If you need to thin out sheets or sections, a hot wire between two screws on a piece of plywood hooked up to a battery charger will thickness material to size to match your coosa.

@SailingFoxyLady 3 года назад

Loads of great suggestions below but the plan you talk about in this video will work great. There are options to save so many layers as mentioned below but a thicker/stronger transom can only be a good thing right!!🤙

@southerntexashomestead5028 3 года назад

Relax, walk away for a bit. Sleep on it. The answer will come to you in the middle of the night. When my brain hits the wall I just have to step back and take a break. I get my best ideas while running. Must be all the fresh air. Really enjoy your videos.

@donkaelber6746 3 года назад

Use structural epoxy to fill any open voids on the transom. Scribe in a piece of Coosa for the entire area you want to "smooth" out. If there's a single plane curve, jig the exposed side with wood to make the curve. Glass in or tab the edges of the Coosa to the transom as close to the existing transom as possible. Pour or pump epoxy in between the existing transom and the Coosa. Whatever you do will be awesome I'm sure. Cheers

@bignus1 3 года назад

You are going to need gallons of Thixio my friend. I would use Thixio on a trowel and just fair the back then put one solid piece over the top... ...Have you ever though about how much weight your adding to the back of that boat?

@PaintballShyguy 3 года назад

I was wondering the same, filler then one big panel. He probably has his reasons though.

@dalespringerwilson4233 3 года назад

Wow, I love a challenge and I love to engineer solutions, but this is one time I do not envy what you are facing with this transom. If I happen to have an epiphany I will definitely forward it to you good luck, love your videos and I love the information you give us. Thanks so much, shoot the wounded and march forward !

@CorwynGC 3 года назад

Isn't it a beam? As long as you withstand the small shear loads, what matters is the outer layers. The finished surface can of course be faired for appearances sake. So I recommend getting a decent even-ish thickness however you can, and then getting a good layer of glass.

@BobMuk08 3 года назад

I like the thought of thinning the Coosa it makes a lot of sense. the other thought I had was to turn the problem upside down...how would you tackle it then?... 'Flip thinking'

@markkurtis8637 3 года назад

I don't know how thin coosa can be bought but doing many, many narrow layers of thin coosa would act as one after being epoxied in. It'd be a very tedious cut and paste jigsaw puzzle but I think it'd be easier to build it up and fair the final surface than to grind and fair each built-up layer.

@drewthompson7457 3 года назад

Without having seen up close, I think I would laminate in a few layers of say, 1/4" structural foam, as needed, belt sand it smooth enough for the large pieces of cosa board. Perhaps add a layer of glass into the laminated foam core.

@BryanSailing 3 года назад

I think your block might be too much focus on needing to use Coosa. Just make your own core of resin, filler and with lots of chopped fiber in it. Fair a nice shape into the transom and put some layers of 1708 on top, the core doesn't provide the strength it's the outer layer. Whatever you do I'm sure it will turn out great.

@calvinb.ainsworth200 3 года назад

Put the inboard engine back in and not worry about rebuilding the transom so beefy to support a bracket and two outboards. The boat wasn't orginally designed, built and intended to have outboards suspended back there. Keep it orginal for use and resale value . Flip it then for a center counsel with outboards if that's what you want.

@mikepondiscio9916 3 года назад

This may sound extreme and I dont know the boat dimensions or the equipment you have in your shop, but..... Seems that when you need to level out an uneven surface, gravity is your friend. Perhaps stand the boat on the transom. Then you can lay all the glass you want on the transom and it will even out flat as calm water. that would make a perfect base for coosa. Just a thought.

@TheDecguy 3 года назад

A number of the 25’s have been converted from I/o to bracket and outboards. I’ve even seen 31’s that have been converted. The key is to understand what structural aspects of the transom were important when the boats had I/o’s and when they had inboards with v-drives. I would guess that loads applied to the transom will be very different from the bracket with outboards attached than from the I/o’s and v-drives. As I travel around the yards in S Florida and I see boats being retrofitted with brackets it doesn’t seem that installers are paying much attention. I’m sure that the engineering staff at a certain well know bracket manufacturer has specked out brackets for the 25’s and has looked into what needs to be done to the transom or not. I suggest maybe a quick consult with one of them if you haven’t already.

@robw2379 3 года назад

Thought: cut a piece of coosa the size of the entire area you are building up, then rip it into strips about 8-12" wide. Then chamfer the back of each strip to match the contour of the existing transom. Seat the strips in a bed of thickened epoxy. Once you have one layer down, you can add more coosa layers as whole pieces. A fair amount of fiddly work, but doesn't thin the existing boat shell, and contouring each strip of coosa will be way easier than an entire slab. (Note, I suggest strips, but they could be horiontal or vertical, or even pie wedges. Whatever will be easiest to contour match then adhere.) Alternately, as others have suggested, ditch the coosa and build multi layers of glass.

@DougsMessyGarage 3 года назад

Andy, as I see it, you have to get the foundation plane flat before you can build up off of it. It sounds like you have a good plan to straighten out the upper portion of the transom. As for the lower portion, could you not just extend the Coosa as far down the transom as the sheet width allows and then make clearances in the lower corners to avoid the bulges under the stringers? Once you have a 3/4" sheet of Coosa laid in, you should be able to shim things out so the subsequent layers can cover all of what you want. It is hard to judge scale on the video but it appears to me that a 4' wide sheet of Coosa should be able to extend much lower than the level you were indicating, if not all the way to the bottom of the transom. Best of luck with this job. I look forward to seeing what you come up with.

@barryb5280 3 года назад

Another vote for going old school and laying up fiberglass until you have a flat enough area for coosa, but that advice is from an old tall ship shipwright that has been away from the business for 20 years. I am sure however you decide to tackle the remaining transom reinforcement will turn out great.

@robertwalker3168 3 года назад

Good luck with that. Eagerly awaiting the final solution!

@jeffgregor1365 3 года назад

I wonder if you could use a door jam saw to remove the high spots for the next layer of coosa. Might save a lot of grinding.

@kwsailer1 3 года назад

What about laminating thinner fiberglass reinforced panels or sandwich panels that can be “bent” until you achieve a plane that you can work with or until you have achieved the transom thickness that you desire. It will take more laminations, but it may end up requiring less work. It may also be stronger.

@keithslocaladventure2123 3 года назад

Instead of grinding down the existing fiberglass that you said was thin, can you attach the Coosa letting it stand proud and then grind that down to the level that you want?

@brownsbloomtenders 3 года назад

Assuming the transom behind your dry fit coosa piece is all one flat plane, why not install that and vertically segment the next layer, then horizontally segment the next and so on? You can shape the next layer to fit the obstructions, and make each layer bigger than the last, working with the deviances instead of rethinking the wheel. It seems to me that narrower segments would also conform to the rounded shape as well as the flat portions without the headaches.

@dondonaldson1684 3 года назад

One solid piece doesn’t add structural integrity, instead mold in a grid that provides a flat surface for a final sheet of Coosa. A grid is more structurally sound a weighs a lot less.

@julieandbobmitchell9372 3 года назад

Always helpful. Working alongside your project on a 1976 Lund President (I think it is actually a Shell Lake boat). Totally rotted out including the balsa hull core, except the transom was still good. Still running the Ford 302 (rebuilt), because hey, it’s a V8!. Ran it first time in October. Little stalled right now by the chilly weather in NW WI. Maybe see you out among the Apostles! These videos have made my project happen. Thanks

@paulcollins9397 3 года назад

Grind the back of the Coosa fairing-filler pieces. It’s the loading of that outboard bracket that’s important... knees.

@hagn7350 3 года назад

Is it not possible to chamfer ( grind off material ) the inside of the coosa to make it fit over the lip ( where it’s proud in the middle ) on the transom? and fill it out with a good amount of thickend epoxy ?

@tallybobba 3 года назад

Router planing jig across the area above the coosa and into the piece you have laid in. Than you can fit a smaller piece in creating an area without voids. Probably won’t work

@moviezaftermidnight6348 3 года назад

A filler layer and then a thin 1/2 " layer full sheet flexing at edges a bit where needed.. great job with the jig & hot glue gun..

@luhman80 3 года назад

why couldnt you use either poly structural repair putty or epoxy with filler ( depending on the boding agent youre going to use for the cosa board) to fill in the voids to create a flush mounting surface? the amount of reinforcement that will be created with epoxy and cosa board, flexing and separation shouldnt be an issue??

@thebigmacd 3 года назад

Maybe I'm not seeing it right (hard to see the contours on video), but that thinner part at the top I would build up with glass and fair it flush with the plane of the first piece of coosa, then cut a second piece of coosa contoured to overlap outwards as far as possible (like a terrain map) to fill in that plane. Then build up the void areas around the second piece with glass, and the third layer should be able to cover most of the transom, also contoured like a terrain map. I wish I could post a picture...

@gdavies6980 3 года назад

Why not make a deliberate shelf level with the deck? That would reinforce the transom specially in the region of the outside bracket bolts. My father always said that if you make a mistake, make a feature of it and fancy it up.

@StonyRC 3 года назад

I'm not a boat engineer, but your logic appears sound. I did wonder if it was possible to "tie" two pieces of Coosa together using something similar to joiners "biscuits" - the aim being to consolidate the two, improving the strength of a butt joint. Sorry if that sounds dumb.

@captaintoyota3171 3 года назад

Man i love i can watch Sampson boat co, tips from a shipright, acorn to arabella, Sv seeker, and boatworks today. Every way to construct a boat. Its awsome. I also have issue when i can't explode view it in my head how im going to do things. When i hit that wall i usually just jump in. Just do it and yeah i make mistakes but usually the solution presents itself

@incognitoyt7940 3 года назад

The structural aspect is taken care of use a spray closed cell foam or like then shape away

@georgejordaan1951 3 года назад

Why not use seacast to build your central low area at the top section, leaving you with the sides to bring up with Coosa and then your remaining pieces as you described?

@dustinsmith4830 3 года назад

It might be more or less work, but I’m thinking the same thing ad some of the other people in the comments, build up your low spots with glass. Kills the worry of grinding through the transom and fixes your low spots with finger point accuracy. Been a subscriber for awhile but first time commenter on any video RU-vid wide.

@brentchalmers1436 3 года назад

You are overthinking this. As stated previously the current transom is a strong as the thinnest section. Remember that transom was not designed to carry any load, it was all transfered thru to the inboard. Redesign the transom to carry to outboard load and Bob's your Uncle!!

@mikefirman6294 3 года назад

Just a wild shot in the dark, can you set up a jig, lay the coosa board down across low and high spots creating a curve, apply weight to force curve into shape heat and cool into place? Does coosa board react to heat?

@robertp7209 3 года назад

Since you are dealing with a combination of flat and curved surfaces, for the curved areas we used end grain balsa that was segmented so it would articulate to surfaces not flat like crowned areas of decks or coring for hulls. Does Coosa have an equivalent to segmented end grain balsa? Then afterwards you can tie it all together with layers of 1708 plus intermittant layers. I recall you doing a repair where you made a series of deep cuts in a sheet of plywood to allow it to articulate. Same idea.

@thebigmacd 3 года назад

The Coosa has a layer of glass on the two surfaces, and urethane foam/glass mix in the core. I believe the saw cut trick may work.

@fishabit 3 года назад

I have zero experience working with any of the products you are using. With that being said I think I fall in the build up with resin and FG camp. In the end I know you are skilled as well as capable, I have all confidence the project will end up better than it was new.

@Starboatbuilder 3 года назад

Hi " you need a ship builders stool" Was a standard fixture when they were building sailing ships. Keep going great video

@sumduma55 3 года назад

Sigh.. it doesn't have to be this difficult. Use closed cell expanding foam to bring the deepest low spots up to a stable plane. Trim as needed. You can even strap a couple boards to run a router base on and rout it flat. Alternatively, you can do the same with layers of Coosa but it would probably get real expensive fast. You could try to resaw some of the Coosa into thinner pieces and layer small pieces till you bring it up enough to put a solid piece across the transom. Just remember that if you are laminating it, the laminating process will add some height too.

@TheDangerBuck 3 года назад

Multiple cosa sheets with glass layers on there. You need to buy a router to remove the thickness of Cosa in the sections that overlap. If there is small gaps no issue. Peanut butter Filler. Don't over think it

@AeroHeliNut 3 года назад

How about applying the next laver of Cooza and sanding that flush. This produces a flat surface with no risk to the hull.

@vman526 3 года назад

Paralysis at analysis. We’ve all been there buddy. You’ll get it done.

@graeme-sailingskeptic 3 года назад

My thought was why not build the centre section up to flush then have coosa board on each side - thicknessed or scarfed down to correct thickness?

@rcsailer 3 года назад

I think I understand why you want to replace the whole transom in cosa, but have you really evaluated if it is needed? Could you just fill in the center portion that has the bolt holes for the bracket. Then glass that section into the rest of the transom with a decent layup. For the strength you’re looking to gain by skinning the entire transom I believe it would be more effective to add 2 big knees on the center section. This would tie the center section into the hull which is likely more stable than the sides which is what will be giving the support of the entire transom is cosa. Love the rebuild I have been watching for a while, just though I would share my opinion on the transom to maybe help you out!

@searay7277 3 года назад

Just a curious question, wouldn't it have been a lot easier to just pour a Seacast or Arjay 6011 transom. A single sheet of plywood with wax paper and mold release up against that transom cavity with a hole on the top to pour in the seacast or 6011 seems like it would have been a lot easier and a lot less costly.

@imageguyimageguy1316 3 года назад

Making a pattern for the low areas is a great Idea. Have you contacted Coosa to see if they have an epoxy that's used to join coosa board like "3m Panel bond" ?

@captainjayc9217 3 года назад

If you are afraid of sanding through the fiberglass, don't sand it then. Repairing the finish in the outside surface will take a lot of time and effort and money. Why not just cutting away some of the Coosa board material to create an indentation to make room for the fiberglass that is sticking out?

@hfoor11 3 года назад

Why couldn't you fill the upper with thickened epoxy to carry that line across then fill in the bottom with the 1/2 inch then fiberglass it all together?

@BabyCharlotteschannel 3 года назад

Thickened resin is brittle when layed in any kind of thickness. Building it up with layers of glass would be the only real, structurally sound way to do it. Either way, I'd think using smaller pieces of coring with glass on both sides and then a final big layer of coring material covered with a few layers of glass would be the quickest and strongest way to build that transom..

@UnyieldingSeraph 3 года назад

Is thickened epoxy as strong as coosa core? Not sure what stresses if any that part of the transom would see, in my brain at least i would want some type of core, but i don't rebuid boats to the level Andy does so what do I know

@leer1024 3 года назад

I see your issue, but it seems to me that it really is just a small section in the centre where the lip is. Why not simply skip the high area and fill that with fibreglass so that is flush and then tie the whole lot together with the last layer of coosa.

@besearchingforwisdom6267 3 года назад

It seems like you are trying to make the coosa fill as the finished structure, and not just a part of the fill that you are laminating to the finished structure. Fill in the lowest areas and laminate the finished layer to the corners. But maybe I'm thinking too simplistic. Thanks for your videos

@desolatemetro 3 года назад

Saw another comment that mentioned it, but maybe make a mold of the area and then create a piece out of glass, thickened epoxy, and/or coosa to make it flat. I'm sure there are reasons this won't work but, hey, the comment helps the popularity of the video at least. 🙃. Good luck!

@dgberry01 3 года назад

Could you do layers of glass to fill in low areas so that you can then get add coosa layers and the again glass layer to tab in and fill before more coosa?

@Saiilher 3 года назад

1) Technology solution? 3D scan the transom and then carve out the shape in a 3/4 in Cousa, glue into place. 2) Why not just build up with glass?

@trentyoung1135 3 года назад

Could you make a form out of Coosa board then use a pourable core material to fill the void between existing transom and the form?? That way you will not have voids then Coosa board and fiberglass over that.

@marcelft 3 года назад

Why not ditch the idea of anymore Coosa and go with building up the area with more glass? How may layers would you need to build it up thick enough to your liking?

@boatworkstoday 3 года назад

Thinking 25 layers would give about an inch of build, but also add a ton of weight :-o

@marcelft 3 года назад

@@boatworkstoday yikes! Would you need to build it up an inch thick to have the same strength as an inch of coosa?

@waltercadwalader5754 3 года назад

Why not float it out with thickened epoxy to give yourself an even bulkhead to work with? Look forward to what you come up with

@81Lemming 3 года назад

Can't you cut out the Coosa in the size that you wanna cover with Cossa. Mount it with glue around the edge of the Coosa. Then drill small holes in it so you can inject the backside with epoxy glue to fill out the low spots. Then you have a flat and solid surface to work on.

@volvoman2324 3 года назад

Why not layup with just glass ? Seems stronger and you can have an organic shape

@allenburns3177 3 года назад

Put some guide strips down and float it similar to how a tile setter does to get a flat surface for their tile. Your just using glass instead of mortar.

@donnaber4918 3 года назад

Andy, couldn’t you just make 4x4 coosa blocks that you can sharp to the thickness that you need? This will be to just level it out then you should be able to apply a single thinner piece to give you your one piece look. You’re doing a great job, just don’t over think it.

@benjaminhighsmith453 3 года назад

Yes a seam should be glassed together it will be one sheet. Coosa suck up the resin. You're good at what you do. Build up with thinner coosa sand down the coosa not the original boat transom. Then add the other payer of coosa. Glassing in as you go.

@nogoodnametochoose 3 года назад

What about using a pourable transom filler like seacast?

@garciaij1 3 года назад

why not use stranded mats to fill in the low spots and 1708 to level out the area before you go to the coosa sheets as the final layer

@mattt83 3 года назад

why not just layer after layer a solid glass transom? its going to be pretty sketchy keeping air voids out of it by the looks.

@BradFLHT 3 года назад

Thank you for sharing your ideas and train of thought. I have a couple question, since you are trying to tie the transom into a "one piece" why not bring down the upper part half it's height? wouldn't that make it easier to layer coosa in 1/4" thick sections? would layering make it stronger?

@Spetet 3 года назад

Why not just laminate the same thickness in heavy fiberglass cloth?

@boatworkstoday 3 года назад

That is an option but I suspect it would add a ton of weight :-O. I'm already a bit nervous about how the boat is going to float when at rest with the outboards hanging out there

@Spetet 3 года назад

Oh, I didn't realize the coosa was lighter. Interesting.

@josephk2958 3 года назад

You could just slap a piece of Coosa in there and fill the voids with expanding foam. That's how the previous owners of most of my projects seem to "fix" stuff. 🙄😁

@jons6125 3 года назад

I just look at that transom with the limited understanding i have of whats needed and think vac bag

@colbygarrett7669 3 года назад

I think what your doing will work fine . I probably would have cut out the entire transom and built a new one sometimes starting from scratch is faster and stronger.

@donazzopardi8747 3 года назад

It may be easier to work from the bottom up.

@bobhamilton298 3 года назад

Hard to see on the video. But if you only have areas that need to be built up some more, why not just use some glass to do it. And the sides, I might think of boxing that in and eliminate the need to level it altogether. Just some thoughts.

@peterengel7885 3 года назад

I read all the comments and this is what I am going to say. I am going to watch. Sorry I can't be more help. It will all come together.

@trentjacobs4286 3 года назад

Can you put some coosa board at 90 degrees to the other seams ?

@kevinjohnson7330 3 года назад

Paralysis by analysis. Instead of trying to make all these planes and contours flat why don’t you just ditch the Coosa board. Look into Seacast pourable transom and give that a try. You can make an inner skin, glass that in, then pour the Seacast into void and it will form to all those contours.

@MrWasher74 3 года назад

I think what you described would be fine, a seam running across the middle would be no problem especially if it’s under the deck level. I’m assuming you will have some sort of cover at the deck level so you won’t even see it anyway. I have full faith in you, you’ll have it sorted in no time.