Excellent work, as always James!! At 16:04, if that happens to me I take a few slivers off a hot melt glue stick, pop it inside the heat shrink and hit it with the hot air gun. The glue stick melts and fills in any gaps perfectly.
Tip: to get shrink tube diameter match with connector, put smaller shrink tube on the wire, over the insulation, before crimp to increase wire diameter …
That's actually a "trick photo" --- you can see how the hands and shoes are exactly the same, and then there's the "jump cut" at about 38:53, where the black ground wire suddenly "leaps" onto the negative battery-terminal just as the second pair of hands appears from the left, even though the hands on the right do not change position at all, but just go on threading the nut onto the bolt, proving that it is the same "unbroken" footage there. So that's obviously a superimposed shot that James did there, with both of those pairs of hands just being himself shown twice. Very clever video-editing, though --- it was only the identical shoes at 39:18 that finally "gave it away" for me, and made me realize that it was just playful footage-manipulation. :P :D
For the future you should know that it's okay to have a 15 amp outlet on a 20 amp circuit. The internal connections of all 15 amp outlets are rated for 20 amps so they're not at risk of burning out. The only downside of fitting a 15 instead of a 20 is that you can't use 20 amp plugs but practically nothing has those so it's no big loss. Oh, one last thing. When you did the final test I noticed that the pilot light was out.
I use a smaller heat shrink on the wire with a larger one over it on the connector. I find that some heat shrink tubing has a wider shrink range than others. 3M seems to be the best but it is more expensive.
Nice to see your twin brother helping out in this video! That is a bit of a bummer on that stator, just when all looked well. Oh well, part three, here we come. What I don't get though, is what made it fail at that point in the proceedings? I could have understood it crapping out when it was first powered up, but wait until the job was all but done! That's just bad timing, or a dreadful fluke occurrence.
@@jcondon1 I was thinking I would've transferred the wires one at a time from the old receptacles to the new so I wouldn't get confused, but that wouldn't catch any errors introduced by the last guy that worked on it. Your method is safer because you actually have to think about where the wires should be.
With hindsight being 20/20 & all. Couldn't you just clip the leads from the old rectifier & solder them to the new one? So that way you didn't have to go through that much trouble.
A word on bridge rectifiers (or as we call them rectumfryers ;-). When you're substituting something else, there are three things you're concerned with: peak voltage on input, desired output current and package. In this application 1A is certainly enough for current. The rectifier should be rated at LEAST double the AC input (eg: about 300V for 120V input and 500-600V for 240V input) voltage. It's typical to see those square devices, but there are many that are practically microscopic compared to them. Be sure you can figure out how to mount and connect the thing. I know of pencil-eraser-sized bridges ("T05" cases) that would work perfectly here and cost a buck or less. Don't get too anal on matching "double the voltage" - you'll probably find that the cheapest and most common of a particular "bridge" family is way higher voltage than you need. With single diodes nobody ever buys 1N4001 (50V 1A) when 1N4007 (1000V 1A) is practically all devices sold, are cheaper, exactly the same size physically and nobody stocks the lower voltage ones. At expected currents of about 1.5A or more, you will have to figure out how to heat sink it. The square ones have a hole for bolting to a heat sink (think: nearby sheet metal). Above about 10A, you often have to get serious with heat-transfer grease and extruded fin heatsinks.
Bolting it onto the steel frame of the generator is heat sink aplenty. I cannot think of a portable generator in which James would need a bigger bridge rectifier than those he has bought and used here. Someone could prove me wrong I suppose. I look forward to it.
@@r8118830 In this case, I think the rectifier is only needed for the idle circuit and perhaps usb charger, that would only require 2-3A. Those type of bridges are available to 25a and perhaps more, so simply bolting them to a reasonable sized piece of metal should be more than adequate. That said some types of inverting generators will convert ac generator heads to dc, then power the entire inverter from that which would require far more substantial bridges. Imagine the devices needed to convert full-up generation stations to put dc in the high voltage distribution towers, for conversion to ac before it hits a few 10’s of thousands of homes. As the Quebec power company has converted their entire grid to. Well, yeah, James here is not likely to have to deal with such things, and you won’t see rectumfriers like that on Amazon
@@fromagefrizzbizz9377 Quite so. I have been considering the reason that they designed this generator with two separate low voltage windings. If there was just one winding then the dc supply voltage to the idle circuit might vary as the battery changed its charge state, unless they gave it some good voltage regulation. Good voltage regulation always costs money. An extra winding rated at 44V rms with a single 5A diode might well cost less than a regulator and a beefed up full wave rectifier. The half wave circuit would more or less regulate the charging current itself as the battery charged up. Once the stator windings are designed the extra cost of a few windings would be minimal.
@@r8118830 It's generally bad to give batteries anything more than about, say, 15V for any duration longer than it takes to charge it. 44V RMS AC will produce half-wave with a peak voltage of about 65V, which will do bad things to the battery once the charging current declines no matter what the input impedance. Limiting charge voltage for relatively low charging current (say 1A) takes a string of diodes (or a Zener) and a single transistor and a couple of resistors. The copper in the winding is probably worth more. Whatever. We don't know the thinking of the designer and what parts he was constrained to pick from.
@@fromagefrizzbizz9377 44V x root 2 = 62Vpk. When the battery voltage is low we do not know how much current the 44V winding will push into the battery. It depends on the output impedance of the winding and the input impedance of the battery. If the battery voltage is low as happens after the generator has been sitting for years in the corner of the garage then the current into the battery could easily exceed 1A. How long it takes before it falls to 1A is anyone's guess, if the battery is not sulphated. How long the battery is going to charge depends on how long the power outage lasts. These are the imponderables of using a self charging system on portable generators. In the end the designers take a stance or are directed to take a stance about what is suitable. I recall being taught that the pulsed charging from half wave rectifier charging was good for lead acid batteries because it allowed for better electrolyte dissipation from around the plates. This was all in the days before the general use of sealed lead acid batteries and quick charging. The other main advantage of half wave charging was the simplicity and low cost of the circuit. I have used half wave charging circuits when repairing portable battery powered tools with little or no problems for years Of course just leaving the batteries on charge for long periods is never going to do them any good whatever the waveform used, half wave, full wave, filtered full wave or square wave pulses as in constant voltage charging circuits. Modern charging techniques with their 3 step sequence takes all the fun out of it. They are hard to repair as well. Battery chargers should not contain microprocessors. It is engineering design taken to extremes. KISS.
Another option is rubbing on a little soap. It goes on easily, but relatively quickly the soap turns into something resembling glue. I do like the tip of trying an air compressor. I have some handles I have to replace. Now where did I put the air gun?
Love your show……..love the way you work. When my 5kw 240 v Chinese diesel was used for 60 hours power cut here in Australia it worked great. 1 week later I went to give it a service and it was only making less than 50 volts ac? I was able to confidently test the power head from what I learned in your show and establish there was no fault. The capacitor (used for regulator) on the other hand was out of range (should be 12.5uf but was 7uf). Replaced with a new one and it’s now up and running again for next time I need it. Had no chance of working this out without your show so may have scrapped it. (Only cont $300 in the first place so not worth getting looked at).
One suggestion (from someone who also has a capacitor-based generator) - pick up an extra one of those capacitors and keep it as a spare. Never know if next time, the darn thing will go bad during the power outage!
when shrink tube doesn't shrink enough, I find putting a smaller diameter on first ahead of the larger one, then shrink the smaller one over the larger one that didn't quite shrink enough seals it up admirably......
You may be interested in knowing that there's a new type of butt connector you might like. It's a piece of heat shrink tubing, with hot melt glue rings at the ends, and a low temperature solder ring in the middle. Slip the tubing on, manually twist the wire ends together, and hit it with the heat gun. Voila: soldered, "wrapped" and sealed/water proof in one go. Some of these are code-approved for splicing underground direct burial of house wire. They're not that expensive and more reliable than tape and hand-soldering.
@@andyrichardson6188 If you ever tried one of these things, you'd find that the melt point of the solder is higher than the shrink point of heatshrink, and would be endangering the insulation and electrical tape would be dripping glue. The temperature in that spot can't be that high, or the GFCI would probably malfunction and all sorts of other things are at risk.
That battery tray looks awkward for a group U1 battery. It's probably meant for a 12V, 17Ah SLA battery. The "17Ah" form factor actually has batteries up to 22Ah in the same can size with the 18 and 20Ah sizes being the most common. "High Rate" variants of these batteries are designed for UPS service where deep discharge often happens in 15 mins or less; these batteries have slightly higher CCA and make excellent performing, very long life starting batteries that are also tolerant of deep discharge. (The high rate 21Ah PowerSonic PSH-12180NB-FR has served me well in all applications requiring this size battery.)
What a good job wiring. You are a profectionist and your attention to detail. Is why you turn out good repaired generators. Thank you for another great video and education. 😀❤🇨🇦
Freaked me out when I saw 2 sets of legs LOL. The bridge rectifier you bought are the same one's I use on snowblowers with no issues. Why did you choose Evapo Vs Die Grinder and a Wire Wheel? Like the dog bed handle retro fit LOL. Even though the stator is bed this is nice bag of money you got there!
Instead of electrical, I would have waterproofed it with clear silicon out of my caulking tube or maybe some of my RTV silicon I use as gaskets. Tape, even 3M which I use, not start on wires.
Not to criticize your work, not my intent. But I would suggest when replacing GFCI outlets, I'd suggest it might be best to do them one at a time to prevent the possibility of getting your wires mixed up. You obviously had your video to guide you, but if someone else were to attempt a similar repair they may not have access to disassembly video.
Really hard to get mixed up there - hot to hot and neutral to neutral. If you reversed the hots all it would mean is that the left outlet was on the X leg instead of being on the Y and vice versa. But in general it's a good idea to work one part at a time.
Hi, good results! I would install a new battery, size to suit (you don't need such gigantic battery) in space under the control panel. These ugly battery support could be removed. In my country, 4L of evaporust is US$60, well...
i just found you,,,your pretty good at what you do..thats a nice gen right there,,not cheap...i learned some things..im going to get one of those Hz Meters For Sure..not a bad price..im off grid here in Wv,,since 2016...i went through 5 gens..putting solar in,,so i have some time to work on 3 of them..i always have a back up..but i dont use them real steady now..thank god for Solar..using reg gas in them really screws them up..i would say.Roll on man..im watching..
On the TV Show, Bering Sea Gold, one team got sea water in their Portable Hand Carry Honda Generator, and fried it! They brought in a new Honda, to replace it. Check Craigslist in Alaska, if you want a challenge!? =P
It's Saturday morning, at 1245am, and with all you've done to this generator, that I've watched in the 2 videos- I see why someone threw it away :-). The cost of a local mechanic, with seriously less skills than you, the hours or days to repair after a week or more waiting to get to it, WHEW, a new one would cost less in stress and waiting. If my endeavors to get my tecumseh fail you can get mine from the curb too. Thanks, but I have to leave before part 3..
If there no gas in the tank or carburetor For how long you can leave the generator without running before it’s need re-flashing “ lose internal magnetism “?
It is have an AVR, then it should not lose magnetism because there are small permanent magnets on the rotor. Older units or ones without an AVR can lose magnetism but there is no hard fast rule that I know of.
This will be the first Trilogy. In the near future all three of these videos will have to be Remastered and Re-released. Shortly thereafter, a Prequel Trilogy will be made as well; a cringe worthy cash grab to capitalize on the franchise. And for a finally… all intellectual property and copyrights will be sold to a dehumanizing corporation to do with what they will.
It’s relaxing to watch that good electrical work. I enjoy fixing stuff and will start to hoard broken electronics as soon as i move to a house. Unfortunately you can’t really fix generators or anything bulky in an apartment.
I would have kept the harness stock, and cut the wires/connectors off the bad bridge rectifier. Then crimp some lugs on the ends of the wires to plug on to the n ew bridge rectifier. That retains the stock harness, and lets you plug and unplug the new bridge as needed, just like the original.
Electrical tape is not waterproof. If you want a seal that shrink tubing use liquid electrical tape. Make it a practice to put it on the wire before putting shrink tubing on If you think it won't be tight enough. Better yet use shrink tubing that already has the sealant in it.
Don't you hate that. Everything checks good so you proceed. Then it changes it's mind ! At least it's not just me that those thing happen to. I'm sure you'll get it sorted in the end.
If you spray windex or some other cleaner into the joint between the grip and the handle bar it will wick into the gap and make the grip easy to slide off.
40:55 I think that battery is too large. It would have originally had the next size down. The holddown would have then fit over the edge of the battery correctly.
I would have cut the wires off the old bridge rec. and added spade connectors to the cut ends then the new bridge could just plug into the existing wire connectors.
@@jcondon1 Try teaching yourself! ..take a failed gen head and take it completely apart but surgically. Most of those gen heads are too complicated to be assembled by machine..they are all wound by hand. There are schematics available for generator heads that show how each coil is then connected electrically. Truly, there isn't much to it. But it is a fair amount of manual work to rewind a larger generator. Anyway, the repair and rewinding of motors and generators is a profitable and worthy business opportunity..and one that you seem well on your way to discovering and moving into. Keep up the great work!
love how u said u were not gonna make it look new.. and now spend a lot on the rust stuff... been easier to make new with a wire brush and a can of paint
Hi Mr. Condon, I have a Briggs&Stratton 30469 , 6000/7500 watts. I tried to replace the 1&2 outlet I bought from Homedepot but now it tripped the panel breaker I checked the wires and it’s the way they had it. Can you give me any possible suggestions? Thank you I appreciate it
@@jcondon1 well, I figured it out what caused the breaker to trip, I just needed to break the tap outlet. I really appreciate you offered to help and truly enjoy watching you trouble shoot each machine. I admire your patience when you’re working with these. I wish I have your patient. Again, I appreciate you taking your time to help me, thanks again
Hi James, thanks for your videos. I love watching what you do with your meticulous and methodical process. I have some advice. When using shrink tubing, you can shrink a smaller diameter piece of shrink tube under a larger diameter piece of shrink tube to increase the circumference for those things like connectors. On the handle sections you replaced, it might have been an option to use a pipe cutter or hack saw to cut the bottom rusted curve off the original handles. You wouldn't have had to drill a new mounting hole in the frame.
He has saved a pair of clamps this way. The new bolts replaced the top clamps. James seldom throws things away that might be useful in the future. Quick access when needed and saving a few bucks is always a good idea.
Hi James, I've commented before. You and Dwayne from Mustie1 are my favorites ( along with South Main auto) I live between Buffalo and Rochester. I started my life getting an education in auto repair although I made a living running a grocery business. I love working on small engines and cars. The one thing you and "Mustie 1" don't tell us is what you do with these thing when you finish repairing them (probably a youtube thing). Anyway, I've love to know the business side of what you do. Please share what you can or will. Thanks in advance, Mark
James I didn't know you had a twin helping you out. Neat trick! Could the corrosion on alternator cover be the result of battery out gassing. Seems like a bad design by the manufacturer.
James do you check a book that showed you the probability of a possible problem and fix manual ? Like a guide for a car repair manual ? With all the knowledge you poses in repairing its incredible! Great job ! Keep up the knowledge you have !
Jim, just FYI, the best rated outlets you can buy are hospital grade, and have a green dot on them. These can handle abuse better, and might be better suited for a generator. They do cost a bit more, but it's worth it in the end (no pun intended).
Hey James, what's in that evaporust? I have seen other people use apple cider vineger to soak rusty pieces of metal and from what I seen, it worked very well. Now I don't know how much either one cost but, I would say the vineger is cheaper.
Vinegar is the most affordable option. Not sure exactly what’s in it. It’s not acid so you can leave it soaking indefinitely without concern if eating good metal. But it’s not cheap. Here is a video with a little more info on it ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-f9kBdJQMPPI.html
still a good find for free , Well worth fixing it up and it should sell for a good price being a bigger generator . ENJOYED ! going to watch 3 tomorrow
Wow, that's going to be hard. It's from like 40 years ago when Japan still made the stuff that all comes from China today. Even then US mfrs were putting their name on imported items. 500 watts is a pathetic amount of power and the thing is belt driven so it's more of historical interest than a competitive machine today. Nowadays you can get a Tailgator that makes 900 watts for under $100 so it's not going to pay to invest much in this antique. When you say fuel tank parts, what parts do you mean specifically? You might have to improvise a bit and substitute generic parts or parts from another machine.
