This is what the hobby is all about. Custom fabrication, imagination, and experimentation. Kudos on the fun build and I look forward to seeing it in action!
Honestly, the mid-motor config of modern buggies is one of the two optimizations made to 1/10th scale 2WD vehicles that I actually like, the other being the aluminum plate chassis run by most racing kits and even some RTRs for a time. Mainly because they don't actually impede the vehicle's ability to run on anything other than a prepared surface. Moving the motor inboard to a mid-motor config primarily just increases the vehicle's steering and improves weight balance, and an aluminum chassis adds stiffness and lowers the CG without necessarily lowering ride height. Anyway, with these mods you've entered the realm of Jangification, a term originally invented to describe the old Rustler Jang of Ultimate RC used to run back in his racing days.
Yes and no. The stiffness of the chassis has some problems that they run into this issue in motocross. The aluminum chassis can be too stiff for low bite conditions causing things like too much oversteer or too much understeer. At times there is no balance. The last aluminum off road buggy I personally had I had a very difficult time getting to run consistently. I bought a aftermarket carbon fiber chassis kit and was night and day different. The car seemed more planted (more forward bite) off corner exits was able to hold more corner speed (due to the chassis twist planting the outside tires). Just a overall more forgiving platform. You also need to remember at a club level you more than likely will not have the amount of grip as you would a bigger race.
@@scottw2157 That's predominantly because a lot of modern platforms are running 7075-T6 aluminum, which is super-stiff. Great for carpet and sealed clay, not so much for lower-traction surfaces. That's not the fault of running aluminum in general, though, but rather the specific alloy. The original Losi 22 had the option to run a 6061-T6 chassis instead, as it had an RTR version with a stamped plate chassis. The 6061-T6 chassis had a bit more flex to it and was thus better for dirt use. Thickness also has an effect. XRAY's XB4 platform runs a thinner chassis than other 4WD buggies and makes up for it by having various chassis brace options. The result is that chassis stiffness becomes easily tuneable without having to replace the entire chassis, and in theory at least a thinner chassis is slightly cheaper. Honestly, I'm surprised there's not more companies providing chassis material options like this, but it's probably because racing at a professional level has gotten so focused around high-traction surfaces that the manufacturers either don't realize that some club racing still takes place on dirt, or don't care.
Nice. Waiting to see the results. Some of my buddies mid motor converted their rustler, bandits and slash. The slash guy used his own custom metal aluminum chassis. The rustler guy used a nitro rustler aluminum chassis and plate (as the nitro rustler is already mid motor) and I don't know what the bandit guy did yet. But those friends mainly bash instead of race. If big dogs races stadium trucks, you should do a rustler build. I would love to see that on the channel. My rustler and slash are still stock rear motor. Thinking about either modify the stock plastic chassis, or get nitro rustler/slash chassis. Would love to see how they do on indoor clay track, carpet track, and bashing too.
I would use a slash 4x4 steering bell crack so that the steering servo could be rotated 90*, it would look an Associated B5 or B4. As for a transmission the stock one has anti-squat molded into it or pro-squat when flipped a good replacement would be the Fastlane machine cases as the arm mounts are completely separate pieces and can be tuned with washers.
Hyped AF. Slash parts make it look off the leash. Looking forward to see if it flat out works, or what doesn't work to plan. And if the car is better. Edit: just had a quick look at the forums. Seems like under-steer, as well squat and toe in/out geometry of the stock Bandit gearbox when its rotated. Still pumped to see how it runs regardless.
Nitro Rustler chassis has perfect holes for everything already drilled, same thing for the Nitro Slash chassis. I have a mid motor Slash built out of a Nitro Slash using an aluminum transmission case. It's quite nice overall for a really fun project.
Love to see this , I have many mid motor traxxas cars and trucks that I have made ,the biggest problem I see with people doing it this way is changing the motor rotation , makes the car drop the front when throttled over big jumps, it becomes a lawn dart. If you reverse the input shaft by drilling the case out the other side and mount a aluminum motor plate on the other side you can run the motor in the proper rotation. Really the best way is a cut down nitro slash chassis and nitro slash or nitro rustler transmission.
I have a chuck works mid engine slash chassis. Caused a lot of oversteer and traction loss. Full wide arm RPM kit 1/8 scale Losi shocks and anti roll bars front and rear. It definitely out cornered a stock slash but wouldn't keep the power down going into the straight, jumped well too.
Next you can swap the front and rear end. Then you have a front wheel drive with rear steer. Or put a rear end at both ends and have a dual motor all wheel drive.
my slash is mid motor. on high grip, works a treat. low grip, not very good 3:12 the motor plate from the 272r tranny would probably work. chop it up a bit
@@wraithmedaberry5795 i have a few videos on my channel as well as a combined 7 ish hours worth of install time. not the LCG chassi tho. Chuckworks aftermaket
The problem I've seen is the anti squat that's engineered into the arm mounts. Flipping the case will will have pro squat characteristics. I'm doing the conversion with the RPM hybrid transmission case. Hit me up! I'd love to chat with you
Here idea I have old gas rustled in witch same as bandit and u can put a trans on also it aluminum and u can start with a flat setup and build from there I just don't have all components to build it but it looks easier and think be better for a mid engine bandit if that's what ur trying out should look in to it maybe I'll have to do it just money been issue but from what I see your skills u should have a problem I've mapped it all out and it will work I just use parts for one of my kids cars instead of building it and I have done some bolt the rear and rear shocks bolt on like a rustled at the rear so more stock part check it out.
I guess in this hobby if I wanna see my crazy ideas happen, I'll have to go for them myself, huh? 😅 Or were you already filming this/in the process of this conversion BEFORE I posted about the transverse front battery rear motor setup with wide rear arms and narrow fronts? 🤔 (man, I really hope those emojis work)
I’m thinking that you could’ve just bought a mid-engine roller and saved yourself a crap ton of time and money, but I get it, it is a hobby and best what your trying.
