My rc10gt single speed with a modified .21 and really tall gearing for top speed on foam tires like i mentioned is close to 100mph. I use a buku adjustable clutch and buku pipe with a servo dedicated to control the divergent cone (end cone) for good low end power popping wheelies with good mid and excellent top end power. Pretty slick, they used that same technique in go karts called a "slippy pipe". I can control the position of the slippy pipe from my transmitter. I was breaking axle shafts left and right till i modified my all steel gear/ aluminum case transmission to accept the jato axle shafts, all is good. The aluminum trans case added some much needed weight for traction also.
@@RedsWay-hz6np I just bought a cheap Amazon aluminum pipe so I could try it out to. I can’t afford a expensive pipe at the moment. Man your tune was so close at the end of the vid. Not sure what your gap is at right now but your close. A hour or two richer in the low needle and that might help drop the idle Yes it does run great 👊😎once you balance those needles it will come natural after that. It just takes a bit to learn to keep the high speed rich as rich gets so the low can stay nice and hot for torque It takes a bit but your almost there. Just richen the low speed very slowly and get the idle lowered with the gap at .7 mm exactly 👊😎
Yo what did u pay for that one? The JATO ones are only 50 bucks how's it working out for you though. They add horsepower and there tuned pipes I'm definitely putting them on mine when income tax hits lol
@@RedsWay-hz6np it’s in order I just ordered the pipe to see. I hope it sounds good. I’m sure it will 👊😎 I will post a bud of it when I get the car finished. I just replaced the backplate for better engine seal. Don’t forget air can suck in the backplate to. A little hint a guy told me to check every so often on a traxxas motor. 👊😎
tha thing is sickening, i see that you are well versed with the nitros ... is there a engine the you recommend that i can purchase as an upgrade to the HSP flyinh fish chasis that i bought. it was my first nitro rc so i was unaware that the quality was subpar in comparison to the older ones that came out back in the day. any information is appreciated
@@oriolinton thanks Alot for the comment um unfortunately I'm now aware of that kinda nitro the JATOs were my first all I can say is the bigger the motor the better
@@RedsWay-hz6np”that’s what she said” lol … I guess that makes more sense than anything else, it’s hard to find accurate info searching… seems like nitro lessons cost from an experience standpoint more so
Every time you take it out before starting, back your high and low needles out at least a 1/4 turn and adjust in from there. Cold temps need more fuel to start and stay running. Also, make sure your fuel tank is sealing well. You already know about the carb being crappy and for that matter, any air leak into the fuel system or engine will cause it to run like crap or erratic. Every damn piece that comes apart is suspect
Ok bro Been thinking of I had sum air leaks or not could be possible can't find a good carb to get been hearing about os but they expensive lol starting to warm up here spring soon better temps I hate tuning in the cold
I took out the ez start and glow plug wire in my jato, revo and slayer pro and gone with the pull start and ignitor so much better cause with the wires constantly being pulled out and re installed with new plugs those wires get easily ruined making it difficult to start the car plus in my 3 trx 3.3 engines I took out that crappy traxxas car and put in the os 11k best upgrades done to my cars, look into it yourself man you wont regret the upgrade.
Yo! SO I can relate to that Ive replaced wires on both JATOS numerous times yea they suck had pull start but it got screwed up but not saying I don't like them just don't have any right now lol and as far as that Os 11 Ive looked into them $$$$$$ I'm gonna need to figure it out but I'm trying to turn them into drag cars over winter just don't no we're to start and what I should do to beat lipo cars....
@@RedsWay-hz6np I was just out on the porch and the sky is showing some blue patches up there. Might turn into rain Though. I sure hope not. If not I’m going out for a test with my freshly fixed up Nitro Rustler The only thing I’m not satisfied with is the new shafts I just got. I got the old school tough MIP CVD axles. They shudder like crazy. Wtheck lol. Anyway it hasn’t blown a shaft since the swap. It just shudders as soon as the cars picked up off the ground. The CVD’s don’t like to be angled they only like to spin steady when the axles are bone straight. Lol. Oh well it’s still tough. And has some small bugs to work out. Thank goodness the engine is all done and ready for round 10. Ohhh I have another great tip for you. They’re a little expensive but we’ll worth it in the long run. OS LC3 plugs. They’re really well built and the coating on the wire last much much longer than any other brand of plug out there. I got my first 2 0S LC3 plugs this week to test. I’ve heard so much tuning benefits also so I had to try them. My first test will be today hopefully 👊😎
better get some better plugs. look up cold weather tuning man. the colder the richer. the warmer the leaner its not idling well at all. the idle is entirely to high.. you are killing a good engine
whats up red jato sounding good. im in ohio to northcental ohio;it can be a bitch in the cold i have learned to warm them up before i cut it lose.the oil in the fuel needs time.hope this helps.
