There are washers you can purchase that fit in those oblong motor mounting holes. Each set is specific to the gear combination used and places the bolt holes in the correct location for the gear set used.
I changed only my pinion gear from the stock 13 to a 15 and the motor gets a lot hotter than the stock 13. I am also not running a engine fan. I have gone back to the stock 13 tooth pinion gear.
Yeah that little lineup system is interesting and it seems everyone I’ve talked to that has removed this thing and tried doing whatever gearing they wanted the motor is shifting and ripping teeth apart. I really like the car but it definitely seems engineered to stay the way it is lol. I was going to change the gearing on mine but the motor starts twisting
@@RoadsideRC I agree man I don’t understand this and when you look at the space they gave you inside the motor options for ESC there’s not much you can fit stuff in there but things are going to be very very tight. That motor sits so close to the steering rack it’s crazy
20-21 tooth? Not worried about over heading.. lol I went 15 tooth new castle motor 2200kv and max 6 esc.. truck is an absolute beast and loads of power on 6s- 8s..
Really helpful video as always. Maybe someone with a 3D printer will be faster than Traxxas :-) Create this optional barrier with wider base for more tooth pinion should be easy.
Nice review and opportunities for improvement for gear mesh block...either shaving the block down to decrease mesh gap or adding shims to push the pinion and spur apart and/or a combination of both to fine tune as needed for proper gear setup...also the tra9589 refers to the motor mount and not the block itself.
I keep breaking my opinion and spur. How do I mesh it? What drill is that and is that the best you recommend? I have 3 MIP screwdrivers that work great but I would like a power tool for the majority of the screwing.
Hello! I am not sure the mesh is the issue. Especially if you are using the stock gearing. Traxxas gears are known to be weak. I would recommend upgrading gears to something offered in the aftermarket. Gears like these: amzn.to/493gCy3 I have found Robinson Racing and Tekno make really strong gears. For the drill, mine has been discontinued. They replaced it with this one: amzn.to/3Sorvnf
I think that was the wrong direction for the motor mount as it eats the spur with bigger gears.on a good note there is already a system being sold to mount the clipless body on a kraton 💪🏻
Love your videos! I’m new to the hobby and recently got the Sledge. Can you tell me which electric screw driver and set of tools you use ? I’m tired of the default wrenches.
Here is an overall tool guide: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LCayvJUXI7g.html Link directly to the electric screwdriver I use: amzn.to/3LxCG7s
@@RoadsideRC cool well your the first person Ive seen that's said that on RU-vid.. other channels been having issues with pinion moving and eating the gears .. glad to hear your not having that trouble.. how's temps with the pinion change
You can call it a small pinion right out of the box all you want but you have to remember most RC vehicles are geared down twice before entering the differentials. Not just once like here. So in reality, this is not a "small pinion right out of the box" type setup. Its got long legs right out of the box.
Interesting theory. Not sure I track with you 100% since the gearing matters from the motor all the way to the tire diameter. When comparing this truck to most common RCs on the market, not seeing a big difference - especially compared to its direct competition. Confused in the end with what point you are trying to make...?
@@RoadsideRC It's not a theory. You have to look at the overall gear ratio from motor to tires. Not just the pinion size. You mentioned this has a small pinion which makes me believe that is the criteria you were using to compare it's gearing to other cars. What you didn't consider is it is missing another entire reduction gearset compared to the X-Maxx, Maxx, etc.
