Definitely do the tire mod! Canyon trails are really good rtr tires. Cut the small lugs out and if you really want to spend the time on it, put sipes in the treads. Break the tires and foams in and they are great! I still run my canyon trails. They work awesome. But Definitely a little bit of brass, some spacers and stock shocks tuned.
Hey man,,,, I recently started watching ya … I am now officially subscribed, interested , and I want you to be my long lost uncle !!! Lololo. Well I’m 46 so we probably more like long lost brothers 🤣🤣🤣your videos are flipping killing me laughjng . The sped up talking w you and your buds at the track is the bees knees man!!! This is absolutely my kind of humor all the way down the line . So your one of those talented old fat guys !!!!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣I’m fat too so ,, Lolllol no offense . You ride too huh? Skate? You grew up in the 80’s right? Me too. Atari was the shizzznit! I showed my son a Atari game last week ,, he WAS NOT IMPRESSED AT ALL!!! Anywho, I’m Scott , live in Woodstock Illinois. And am a big official fan now !!!!!!!
Trx4 is a great trail truck, but not so much for comp. The sport would have been better choice. Element Ecto or Vanquish Phoenix are better starting points for comp.but you are headed for a great adventure dialing it in.
Once u learn how to lock and unlock ur diffs during crawling ur skills will grow exponentially set up ur radio so u can unlock front or rear diffs independently.
If you stay brushless the ISDT esc is a great option at only $25 with Bluetooth, but consider the hobbywing fusion se for brushless... Gets some brass to lower cg and you want 60/40 weight bias front/rear. And you only need like an 850mAh 3s for comps.
Thats a sweet TRX4, I feel the sport would been a better fit for you. I have two element RC's (team associated) one is a low center of gravity rig, that I've sunk some bucks into. You can really get into the rabbit hole with these. Have fun
Couple of tips: Battery in front of the servo adds weight for the front diff, gives better traction but doesn't solve the center gravity issue with the motor location. Use the factory shocks they are well adjusted. Adjust the preload in the back. Soft for the front and a little stiffer on the back. This will make the front diff have more traction. Stock ecs works fine but with a 1080 hobbywing esc the control is way better for crawling and downhill. (Cheap option but very good esc). Motor wise a holmes hobbies crawl master sport 10t or 12t works great with the hobbywing 1080. Yeah racing sells 8mm wide hex which is going to be just a bit wider from stock but with brass it adds weight to lower the center gravity. The key with crawlers is to maintain most of the weight low and towards the front but not in excess. Looking forward for the next videos!!
I agree with this . Not sure but both Traxxas crawlers I own the esc is not setup for crawling out of box , there is no drag brake , looks like you have it set though. Only other thing I can think of to add to the comment above is the Blazer body is just to top heavy for competing if you want to use a body like that you are gonna need some brass portals and steel rims or other weight down low to counter the top heaviness of that body. Other then that Id just get a pick up truck style body or chop up a sport body.
@@Jaystubechan, yeah those bodies tend to be heavy 😅. I always suggest if anybody is starting with crawlers buy a trx4 sport, axial deadbolt or even the basecamp. Learn the limits in stock form and go from there. I didnt mention the brass because skills need to be polished a little before upgrading. At least thats what I do with every crawler 😂😂.
