Thank you, I swore my first Flying Scotsman was loco drive. It was the Triang Hornby one I bought in Toronto when I was a kid. Now when I get it out of storage I know how to work on it. Mine is in L.N.E.R. markings.
Excellent model. The robustness of the Triang design has helped it get into the 21st century. With motor options, etc. That solidity also helps when maintaining the models. The non corridor tender looks good too.
I could hear all the Puritans shouting Nohhh when you swapped out the Motor, but I bet that’s the Smoothest and Quietest it’s ever been 🙌🏻 Great Result!👍🏻
Good morning Bill, I've just fitted on of these peters spares replacement x04 motor in my old triang princess, referring back to your video I fitted with a slight bend to the plate and cut the top of the hole as you suggested, and it works a treat, I'm very pleased, so thank you for the information and knowledge. It has given me a huge boost in confidence when tackling these old models. Eddy xx
This locomotive is a surprise to me. 1. Tri-ang 2. Numbered 60103. 3. Firebox Glow.4. Wheel flanges (Modified?) 5.Year of Manufacture. Whilst watching this video I was also working on my A1 Flying Scotsman with Tennder Drive. Removing the cast metal Ringfield motor from its plastic chassis was a challenge. Then while it was on a test run the traction tyres started slipping. I have replaced them with Marklin Tyres Part number 7153, but I am unsure if they are the right ones or not. When I saw the heading I thought this video would give me the answers. Cheers, Martin. (Thailand)
Nicely done Bill. Picked up your channel a few weeks ago after returning to the hobby. Thanks to one of your videos i became aware of the Peters Spares replacement motors, fitted one and bought 2 more for 2 Scotsman's im gonna do a s a project next. Love the vids mate...
I have two of these Triang Hornby Flying Scotsman A3s, one is much better than the other and i think i'll repaint it and rename it as a long lost sister at some point. Both run great and I'm glad to see another running again, even with a non original, an much newer, motor. Great fix as always!
Nice work Bill, I did the same thing as a kid, took every toy I ever owned apart to see how it worked and then put it back together, not always successfully !! 😂
Hi Bill, This was always my favourite of the Flying Scotsman locos. Much nicer than the LNER version. Nice to see it running again. How is your wife's arm. I do hope it is better now. There should be no problem with newer Hornby system 6 or Peco code 100 track with this engine.
Great video Bill! I used to have one of these in Apple Green, fantastic model but it kept going wrong in all kinds of ways - That plate hanging off the front of the chassis was bent out of shape on my example and I was never quite able to get the body to sit flat no matter how many times I tried to adjust it. Eventually I ended up selling it off however seeing it here again, especially in that robust BR livery really makes me want to give that mold another try haha. Keep up the great content!
Hi Bill ,, I have never had a problem with retro fitting any motor to anything including even my old truck when it shit itself once when i had to get it towed home with a semi towwer to home and cost $650 for a 12 kilometer trip at 4am in the morning. I refitted the old diesel noyse motor with a diesel perkins 6354 engine and with a few mods ie: power steering pump and pressure lines and throttle cable/linkage to the throttle pedal all was good and was on the road in a week. Then that perkins motor died so i had the engine in and out with in 4 hours all up to running again. The forklift i had helped heaps though haha. I seen 1 of your recent videos about the wire not sticking to some of the wires as in soldering to the the base plate why some wires will not solder and im pretty sure i know why. The brown power wire ive had problems myself so i just replaced it with a new wire from base plate to the motor and soldered it and it soldered up tight and connected straight away. I got the old brown wire and cut it apart and pulled the pvc sheathing of the wire and the oil had penetrated the wire almost all the way to the top of the wire through capillary action i presume as all bar 1mm of the wire was oily and i checked it to make sure so I squeezed the bare wire wire with a tissue and sure enough there was oil residue there on the tissue. I tested this on another old brown power wire and it was similar but it had oil only about half way up the wire presume that every time the wire is heated a the oil in the wire oil loosens up and slides down on to the joint that is being soldered and not letting the solder weld and hold properly. I see it as refitting no matter what to anything keeps that loco running and keeps it on the rail instead of just sitting in a box waiting to be fit or salvagespd for parts either way its all good. Yet another great video there Bill. Cheers from John in Australia.
For the 5 pole motor i find its better balanced than the regular 3 pole. Mine is quieter than the PS replacement, its like custard rustling! For my R850 I used a dremel on the wheel backs as it caught on the pickup wiper plate for me. Odd that they used the same chassis for the B12 and Hall with wire pick ups but wipers for this. I find the wire makes less scratchy noise when run in. perhaps a high speed run with cotton bud and an abrasive paste would make the motor-less loco quieter and smoother. Would be interesting to see if it smoothens up. Hope you get some fun out of it! King regards Will
Nice work. Not sure why you'd "upgrade" the motor without upgrading the wheels Bill. Maybe keeping it all original was the best solution? There are not so many of us with Series 3 and Super 4 track. Good luck with the auction.
Upgrading wheels is very expensive unless you re-profile the existing ones which is something I want to try doing at some point when I get a new bench grinder.
Great repair as usual. About the flickering LED you have fitted. I do not think that it has a "one way resistor". My understanding of LEDs is that they are a diode and diode only let current flows in one direction. Therefore, the LED you have fitted will flicker only when the correct polarity goes through. You mentioned that the LED was not working when you wired the red to positive and black to negative: I assume that it was not working when the loco was going forward, but did you try to run it in reverse? To make the LED flicker in both direction you might need to add a bridge rectifier.
LEDs don't like being reverse-biased so LEDs in inverse parallel would be better - SMD LEDs would be ideal in this situation where there's limited space, but the simplest option really is the good old fashioned grain of wheat bulb :)
Nice repair Bill. It looks to run very well now but I do question why you refitted the traction magnet, it would have been much kinder on the new motor without it as it serves no purpose on modern track other than cause drag. I have removed the magnets from all my locomotives that had them and they are much better off for it.
The intention was to sell this on and I'd rather sell a model as complete as possible. As I said in the video if I was keeping this model I'd have just removed the magnet as I agree it will run better without it.
