It would have been nice to have a micrometer or vernier caliper handy to measure your "shim". It's important to know how thick a shim you put in, and the effect on the trigger pull of using different thicknesses. I imagine those terminals you used for shim stock DO come in different thicknesses depending on where you get them.
i plan on buying my first mosin tomorrow sense a local chain store has them for only 120 and i want to get it ready for hunting season thanks for your videos
I guess I should really count my blessings. I have a 1945 Izhevsk M44 that I have done nothing to and it is less than a 5 lb. trigger. Now, it is possible that a crafty North Vietnamese knew what he was doing since the gun was a trophy gun that my father-in-law brought back in the late 60's.
I posted about using a shim under the sear 10 years ago on the High Road. I now did a study with many Mosins and realize the shim reduced engagement , not a good idea. Polishing does no measurable good. The Huber trigger does no good. The winners are; bend the sear or install a Timney.
did a trigger job to my mosin and got the pull down to around 4.5lbs with no permanent modification besides sanding and polishing the top surface of the sear where trigger rides, polished inside of the trigger where it hits the sear(there is an angle in there if you round the angle get a much smoother pull) then the main trick to a light trigger with a short pull is use a trigger slack spring but put it in the other way so it pushes trigger closer to sear disengagement vs farther away.
2 pounds is a lot. I have always wanted one but keep putting it off. I shot mgonza's yesterday and loved it. There a lot of fun to shoot! Great video too! I'm all over this. I enjoy tearing things down and doing stuff like this. I work with aluminum all day. I run a cnc machine and have access to vertical and horizontal mills. I'm going to play around with it and see how it goes.
Just another interesting aspect of my Mosin. There was a bone fragment along with a piece of lead core wedged in the stock, also someone was keeping count of something because the is 17 notches cut into the top of the buttstock and when I took the stock off there was strip of heavy paper with what we think says “Я кровоточить к Родине” on it.
@teenprepper96 The surplus ammo will be, but new stuff like Winchester white box if not. The thing is that the Winchester was $1.00 per shot and the surplus is $.12.
Other then the shim you can also bend the trigger bar .... I ended up removing the shim and bending the bar. i was able to fine tune it better that way.
I could never figure out why my 1921 had such a nice trigger compared to my other three 91-30's until I took them apart side by side and found somebody had bent the spring on the 1921. It does the same thing as the shim, but not wanting to bend the spring on the others I did the shims and it makes a world of difference.
I picked up my M91/30 for about 40.00 at a pawn shop. It was filthy, but cleaned up rather nicely. Thanks for posting this, I have often wondered about reducing the pull weight, now I know. I also have a M44 that is pristine. I think it may have been refurbished as their are scribe markings on the receiver from a Romanian plant.
@ArtisanTony I hear you, I was not going to get one because everybody had one. Between the fun factor and cost per shot, it is one of my favorite guns!
@ArtisanTony I hear you, I was not going to get one because everybody had one. Between the fun factor and cost per shot, it is one of my favorite guns!
@frankthebricklayer You just have to look for the deals. My local shop has the 440 count span cans for .17 per round. $79 I have seen it cheaper yet when you buy 880 or more. I can not afford to buy that much at one time, so I stick with the 440 count tins.
@mrtlsimon A lot of places don't pull them out and sell them for more .... Like my place. Some do. I was just luck that I asked to look at all they had in stock and the Hex was one of them.
I tried using a shin to lessen the trigger pressure, but it increased the slack in the trigger. I instead ground the sear( too much to begin with), the sear stop (had to for engagement and made it closer to trigger), and finally the flat inside the trigger. My results: 1/16" trigger slack (no need for a spring), 3/16" trigger pull, and a much lighter trigger pull ( not sure how much yet, waiting on pull scale to come in). Be careful, it is easy to go too far. I did a bump check, Total PASS.
Okay its official we have a gun show coming 29 and the 30th this month I'm going to look for a mosin now but I'll specifically be looking for the Hex barrel!
I have some actually shim stock and i should be getting my type 53 (chinese carbine variant of 91/30) tomorrow and if the guns in good enough shape to fire this is going to be my first mod on this rifle Thx much for the idea
unfortunately do to the inconsistencies in rifles that would not have mattered because the same shim acted completely different in my other rifle and I guess that would be the same result if I had 10 of them to do.
@@ebomey actually I have another update; I took the rifle to the range using 1986 Russian brass case surplus ammo and scored some groups at about 1/2” MOA at 100 yards. Took the rifle home, took a little more material off the sear and now I have a 1.5 pound trigger with a clean break.
You can drop another 2 lbs by reducing the width and thickness of your sear spring by half, just not where it bolts in and where it goes into the trigger (make sure you polish the spring a bunch and get out all of your sanding marks or you'll break the spring) and take a LITTLE BIT off the cocking sear on the bolt. Also you can put a torsion spring in so it pushes forward on the trigger for a decent 2 stage feel. Next mos in I lay hands on I'll post a video, but I don't get them in the shop
A much better safety check after shimming is to put a folded towel on the floor and with the gun cocked, give the butt a good wrap on the towel, as if you dropped it (unloaded, of course). If it releases the trigger, that gun isn’t safe and you shimmed too much.
hey ebomey wats up my brother?? I'm thinkin' bout gettin' a Mosin in 2 weeks. And this may be a dumb question but the Mosin's at my local gun store look BRAND NEW and i'm just wondering if like Century Arms makes reproductions or are they all original Russians? I could research it i know but i figured i would just get some friendly advice. Awesome vid brother! I'm getting my Glock 17 tomorrow so there'll be a good ole Smoky Mountain Gun Show review up this weekend check it out!
For the cost of my AR I could have 40 Mosins. They make a great platform for projects like that. Having said that, I have not done anything to this rifle.
Thank you so much for this video! Before this I knew only of Iraqveteran8888's bolt/trigger job to lighten the trigger pull. And that would have been irriversible. This isnt.
when you bent the sear spring/ trigger bar did you notice an increase in the tension to unlock the bolt? I've done three trigger jobs down to 3 or so lbs and they all caused the bolt to get tougher to unlock... ended up cutting the firing pin spring which solved the issue, but I don't understand why that occurs
Of course they vary- that's the whole idea of shimming something, to adjust for variations. I'm just trying to get a feel for the process, which is by nature trial & error. I understand the whole "if your bolt falls out your shim is too thick" idea, but I'm trying to figure out how to tell if you've done any good. Why shim your sear spring in the first place and how do you know if you've got it right? Are you trying to adjust spring tension, or the angle where it meets the cocking piece?
