When checking for resistance ALWAYS make sure to touch your probes together and measure that resistance first. The probe cables themselves will add resistance, especially with cheaper multimeters. Then subtract that number from your reading to get a much more accurate reading of your target resistance.
I am genuinely curious who comes up with this!? I mean, I've completed an old PS1 mod back in 2000 and it was just a bunch of wires to a chip. this is freaking insane.
Cool. I may eventually try this mod. Curious if the AVE-HDMI could be installed so you could connect it to a TV if you wanted. Thanks for the video breakdown.
Just got mine cut, and tested using your video as a guide! Thanks for explaining and clearly showing each step of the process. I'd like to pay it forward by saying for anyone who is getting power to their chips (warm feeling) but absolutely no video, i tried 2 different AVE connectors and couldn't get a signal through them. I ended up soldering the end of a composite cable (yellow part) direct to my composite wires coming from the Wii, and finally got the error message. I'm not sure if this is recommended, so be cautious, but it worked for me.
I am so glad I came across your message because this is the exact boat I am in. Did you mean that you soldered a video wire into the wii and ran it straight to the tv?
I was testing my resistances and noticed that I get different resistance depending on which probe is where. At first, doing it the way you are, I was getting about half on all of my 3.3v lines, but when I swapped them, they started showing the correct numbers. I'm not sure if that will matter in the end though.
Dude I’ve been pulling my hair out trying to figure out why the composite video won’t show up. I re-wired everything twice, tried a different Wii board connection for the composite cable, tried to blow out any copper dust from under the CPU + GPU, etc. I was just going to wait until another Wii arrived from eBay to harvest a new A/V port and see if that was the issue, but.. turns out I did exactly what you did - wired the ground for the A/V port to the outer casing! I’m away from home at the moment, but I’m ecstatic to get home and re-wire it to see if that fixes my issue. I’ll edit this comment with an update on whether it works or not! Thank you!! Update: Absolutely was the issue. I’m currently halfway done my first Ashida build!
Its still wild to me to see someone cut through a motherboard like that, and still have it work... I mean, I understand how and why it still works, Its just odd.
@@RetroGeeksGaming I am currently on vacation but the video is still not complete. It’s already an hour long, and there are still a few things I need to add. Thanks for your patience
Hello,I wanna trim a wii simply to make it smaller,not for a portable wii like the ashida. I also want it to run on battery,so will this tutorial work to make a trimmed wii that runs on batteries, or is there another tutorial that I have to use for that.
I ended up using 24 gauge wire in part 3 (affiliate link): amzn.to/3s8fGYT As for desoldering guns, I know it's expensive but the Hakko FR 301 is a great option, and it's the one I use in all my videos (affiliate link): amzn.to/2L1ah0p
@@dubesinhowerHey Dub, so that resistor you took off by mistake, well I took off the cap above it by mistake.... do I need that? It was C58 if that helps
I just follow guides lol. I try to learn, but unless I know/ care about the design of the thing I don't see a point in focusing on exactly what the thing is
