I think you hit most of the technical aspects perfectly. One thing you didn't mention, nobody in the bike industry and few of the influencers ever do, is what a money grab 1X drivetrains are for component and bike makers, especially SRAM. They get rid of 1 or 2 chainrings, the front derailleur, the left hand shifter, the shifter cable, and all the time needed to install and adjust this stuff and charge the same money or even more for it. Then they make a killing on replacement parts as well since all that 1X stuff wears at twice the rate. Then they put out a bunch of propaganda with the complicity of the rest of the bike industry and cycling media about "how evil and horrible" the front derailleur is. Oh and BTW since you've gotten rid of that "evil" front mech and all that "horrible" setup and adjustment and shifting complexity we can now sell you a dropper post - because, hey, everybody needs one of those! Of course now that they've largely killed off the front derailleur and made it so if you want a quality triple crank you have to go through a small specialty shop like Rivendell or Velo Orange they have moved on to just killing off pedaling in general. Now it's all about ebikes. Why bother with that pesky pedaling when you can just push a button and go 20 mph. Don't get me wrong. I realize that all this stuff has a place - 1X drive trains with wide-range cassettes, ebikes, dropper posts, wide tubeless tires run at 4 psi, electronic shifting, and carbon fiber everything but it's not for everyone.
I raced road bikes in Colorado in the '80's, DT shifters, 13/23 6-speed freewheel, 52/42 double chainrings. This is what Eddie Merckx rode the entire TdF on. Marco Pantani said if you need a larger cog than a 23, then you weren't a climber. As I've gotten older, my knees hurt, so I use a triple. I also use a standard DurAce 9-speed cassette 12/27 and DurAce 9-speed derailleur. It's more than plenty. I'm able to get a far wider range of gears than on a 1X! I agree with @tblakedrums about just dropping down one chainring when you meet a hill. I keep chainrings 10 teeth apart. I never mess with my rear derailleur nor drop a chain anymore! I still use DT shifters and ride an 80's steel lugged frame. It is old and beautiful in aesthetics and function. I've ridden 50K miles on a ti-frame Campy 10-speed index shifting road bike, so I know what I'm talking about. People have preferences, no need to be hateful. Just ride and enjoy what you are doing.
Thanks for commenting and sharing your experience. Marco Pantani would laugh at my gearing for sure, but I ride up a lot of steep dirt hills and I'm not an especially gifted climber. Keep enjoying that steel bike.
As a newbie to cycling, I find a 3x setup to be much easier to use for quick ratio changes than a 1x would be. If I hit a hill, I don’t need to worry about finding the right gear in the back, I can just drop one in the front and I’m good to go. I think the 3x is underrated these days!!
Great to hear! That's a good observation. Some shifters only allow one upshift per click which in a bind can take longer than needed when you're running out of momentum.
Been riding triples since I toured Canada to Mexico in 1976 as a 17year old. Have it on 3 of my 6 bikes today. They are the most versatile and give me the confidence to go anywhere, especially as I age.
Sometimes more is less. Every rider has to select the options available that work for them. Back in the early 70's we rode 10 speeds and thought they were great for touring. Later I moved to a three ring in front. Seven years ago I went back to two rings in front. I'm a one bike rider and my bike tours are on pave, gravel and dirt and urban rides. The three ring has a lot of redundant ratios. On a tour about 30 years ago, my rear derailer failed and I put the chain in the middle on the free wheel and did the tour as a three-speed using the front three rings. It worked great with a 35 pound touring load. I had no problem keeping up with my adult son.
Excellent point! I’ve noticed the poor feel on 1x drivetrains when I’m in the big cog on the back or the very small cogs. The 10 tooth cog must be very inefficient, and even worse with a 9 tooth. The old school road racers used 13 tooth cogs as the smallest and upsized the front chainrings to compensate and to gain better efficiency. For a MTB where you’re not riding for efficiency, but on trails with jumps, or for an e-bike it’s probably not really a high priority.
Excellent note about the chain stay length and increased cross chain inefficiency. I was on a ride one time with a guy who had a 1x and huge rear cassette. The lager cogs were probably aluminum. The lateral force from the chain was so strong it literally pulled a tooth off the cog.
I live on a hilly peninsula west of Seattle, and triples are absolutely necessary, just to get around. Your explanations and benefit analysis were spot-on. Well done, sir.
Triples made my cycling experience so much better. I have a physical condition that restricts me to a seated position when cycling. I can climb anything and still hit 50 MPH on a good down hill run. Triples were the best addition I’ve ever made to a bike.
50MPH on a downhill run is suicidal, and you surely wouldn't be keeping up with the high cadence even in the hardest gear anyway. I love my triple on my hardtail MTB.
Great points. Back in the day, triples offered a wide range which I appreciated for hills and carrying loads. Now if I get a used bike with a triple, I don't see a compelling reason to change it. Triples are nice for rolling hills, because you can go from high to low gearing quickly with the front shifter. It's not bad to have some redundant gear ratios since you don't always use the same cogs and wear them out.
Just got the Velo O Low Kicker finished. With its swooping top tube and other classic touches this bike was always going to be a bar end controlled triple! Now I just have to figure out how to squeeze a 3X9 or 10 onto the Fargo and it'll be the perfect machine for everywhere unpaved.
I wouldn't go touring without a triple. Super wide range with reliable shifting. I set mine with 10 tooth gaps in the front. With common 8 or 9 speed cassettes a front shift is about 2 rear shifts in the commonly used rear cogs. Life is good.
triple on the front 44/32/22 and x10 on the back 11-36. Bike is a Trekking one. 44/32 for the road. 32/22 for some forest trails. Works awesome for me. U get a good allrounder with 622x45 tyres.
I have converted all of my bikes to bar end friction shifted triples for the past 50 years. For endurance or touring I am using a 42 32 20 front with a 12 36 9 speed rear. For a fast road bike I use a customized 13-27 Dura Ace cassette with a 48 38 28 front. All nine speed. Triples give me three gear ranges: uphill, flat, and downhill/downwind. I don’t care that there are ‘redundant’ gears in the other ranges, because I am using it as three 1x drivetrains. Most of the duplicate gears are cross chained and avoided anyway. I can use all 9 of the rear gears from the center ring.
Still riding triples - touring bike and a '96 Klein mtb. I also have a spare 105 triple chainset. I love them! I think my tourer is giving something like a 550% ratio - 12/28 10spd block with a 44/32/22 chainset. Works for me
Triples make even more sense on a 26" wheel because the range of RPM's the 26" wheel needs to spin at is much greater than a 700c or 29er wheel diameter. That requirement necessitates an even wider gear range to accomadate the smaller wheel diameter across a large range of surfaces and speeds.
I am an avid 3x supporter. I'm also a gear head. My vintage 90's MTB has a modified to 11-40 7 speed with 19-33-48 chainrings. My Cruiser has a 10 speed 11-40 with Sram Dual Drive 3 speed internally geared rear hub and a chain guard because of the lack of a front derailleur. Shoe laces, long pants or even a skirt are a non issue. My recumbent has a 4x 18-33-39-53 on a 9 speed 11-40. There has been the rare occasion when, touring with loaded panniers, I have pounded out an extremely steep pitch. The alternative, walking my recumbent, is really not an option. And finally, I just completed a vintage MTB to AWD dual hub-motor ebike conversion with 11-34 8 speed and 24-39-53 chainrings. MY wide range 3x and 4x systems have required that I modified and extended the front derailleur cage to reach those big spreads without dragging the chain on the cage. The versatility of a 3x (or more) for all conditions is unbeatable in my own mind..
I have a triple on my 2012 Specialized Tricross Comp 50/39/30 with 11-28 Shimano 105 5700 10 speed. It has served me well, have only had to replace one shifter (and cassette and chains of course). I’m in the process of upgrading to GRX 11 speed 48/31 to 11-36, wanted a higher (lower?) granny gear and hopefully the clutch will result in fewer chain drops. I’m torn about selling the old gruppo or putting it on my wife’s 9 speed endurance bike with frakenparts like different shifters.
Triple rider. I set up a bike similar to yours here, but I used Dura-Ace bar end shifters. Tiagra triple crankset and Ultegra FD, 11-32 MTB cassette and SLX RD, all 9-speed parts. Rides (and shifts) great!
15-25K km a year on steel bikes older than myself. A few 3x5 and a single 3x6 are largely sufficient for my needs. Massively reliable, too. Did see a 4 chainring setup once that did make some sense with 5 speed aft: the two biggest chainrings in front very close in toothcount as a way to fine-tune the first few ratios, then the two smaller with the usual ~10 tooth distance. Also contra huge casettes with single/double chainring: chain & teeth wear + notable inefficiencies on "crossy" configs.
I love the triple set up on my mtb. I can always find the right gear/cadence no matter what the situation. I tried a 1x and was forever changing up and down trying to find the right gear.
Still loving my Sugino triple with 9 speed set up on my Surly LHT. Works flawlessly when the bike is loaded or unloaded. Just slowly getting into gravel riding/touring with it this year, I need wider tires, but I suspect it will perform well once I get them on.
If you have a problem with diameter tire clearance with 700 rims, change to 650. Tire diameter of a 650x48 is equal to 700x28. Depends on clearance at chain stays and at fork crown.
You ride in a more varied landscape than I. From smooth, sweeping coastal highways to technical single tracks. It makes more sense to have gearing modularity. As much as you want.
Thanks for the video and your thoughts on the triple. I have used the original triple on my 1995 Specialized M2 FS Comp conversion while doing several bike tours. On my last tour, I finally had to replace my middle ring due to wear. I totally agree with you, especially when touring with a bit of extra weight, that finding the "sweet" spot in regards to cadence is so important. I guess we could call everything that is not "modern" odd or outdated but I would never do that with music. It is all born of a time when it was the "best of the day". I wish we were all not so quick to abandon what still has value and a place today. Are we also saying that "3 on the tree" isn't cool too? 😀
I use a 3x7 on my Hardtail MTB and I know how to keep it fine tuned and well adjusted, reasonably clean and well lubed. I ride on all kinds of terrain, including paved roads. Gears are 22-34-42T front and 12-28 rear. Gives me all the range I need and shifting is smooth. I have no desire or intention to downgrade to a 2x or a 1x any time soon. No matter what the current trend or hype is, I always go with my personal experience and the 3x is the best setup for me. One thing that was not mentioned in the video is that a 3x gives you the opportunity to always be in the right gear without much cross chaining if you know how to use the gears. Unlike a 1x. Cheers and good rides! ✌️😉
When I first saw this bike, I thought, eh, it is just a custom version of my 1983 Stumpy. But it isn't. It is infinitely more capable. And now I find myself wanting a rigid, steel, flat-bar 29er.
Na ,Out Dated is over thinkg keep what works for you, I do agree with the way your thinking. We don't need to reinvent the wheel just use what work .. 🎉🎉🎉
Thanks for the video, great view spot. I am definitely a fan of 3x. Out of my 6 bikes which range from late 1980s to 2017 have everything from gates belt w 8sp rear hub to late 80s MTB with 1x 11, 2013 2x10 and 2010 3x9 both Stumpjumpers and 2017 Specialized Diverge. Future Bike #7 is a project early 90s Gary Fisher Marlin Frame. Planning a drop bar 3x 9or10 26” ATB. Have parts Cane creek brake levers for V-brakes, and Microshift 3x10 Bar end levers. My current gravel bike a 2017 Specialized Diverge originally was 2x 8or9 changed it to 3x10.. As you say if I already have a front mech give me the 24-28 inner ring. It will give me the lows for loaded bike touring. Other times mostly on middle ring. I am thankful that I am able to have the other bikes, right tool right job etc. I also appreciate the simplicity of a 1x10, and a 1x8 belt drive.
Hi Henry, For a good comparison between triple and double, I think we have to define the biggest cog / smallest gear we need for the type of riding. For example, on steep climbs a double 40/26 or 38/26 is OK and with a triple 48/38/26, the 48 will not have much usage. The triple had obviously more convenience some time ago when the big sprocket was not more than 26 teeth (I am 62 🙂). But on a travel bike heavily loaded the triple still have a reason to be in my opinion, and ideally a sub-compact triple. Furthermore, with modern cranksets, while traveling, you do not need special tools to change chainrings if really needed (and chainring is not heavy). Best wishes
Absolutely, I have a 36/26 and 11/42 and it si perfect for my gravel bike. At 36/11 m going fast enough even on tarmac, and if I really wish to increase my speed, I would rather focus on being aero than on weight savings and gearing madness.
the three front crank served a purpose back in the day of limited rear cogs in a low drive climbing situation there wasn't✌ big rear cogs back in the day as i remember used what we had at the end of the day to each is his own☯🦋🦋💜
Living in a relatively flat town for years, I could happily get by with 1x or 2x setups. Now that I've moved to a place with a lot of hills, plus having to carry a variety of loads, I've found that at the top and bottom ends, 1x and 2x are less than ideal. With 1x especially, it's hard to have both a granny gear and a really fast gear. And 2x setups are mostly aimed at road bikes, less so touring... it's getting better with gravel becoming popular, but I still think in terms of wide range of gears and value for money, triple is the best, as long as you can get it dialled in just right so that it shifts smoothly. (And that's often the trickiest part with triples, and possibly a big part of why many people don't like them.)
After several decades of riding various triple setups, I’m still partial to the 5x3 or 6 x3 Granny with Half Step making 15 or 18 gear ratios with wide range and no duplicate gear ratios. My current road bike is 9x3 with 27 gears but half of them are redundant and dead weight.
Have triples on 6 of my 8 bikes: 3 road, 2 hard tail mountain and 1 cycle cross. I basically live in the middle ring, with a high range, or a bail out low range, when needed.
Love my triple on my touring bike. Gives me the range I want and the simplicity when paired with friction bar end shifters, that I'm comfortable with repairing on tour.
Great video. Entry level 1xs like SRAM Apex are very heavy because of the dinner plate sprockets. On higher end ones I think they make the larger sprockets out of aluminium. The smaller ones are still metal or they would wear too quickly. A triple much the best thing on any kind of touring bicycle imo.
I have a very fancy electronic tripple 3x11 (XTR Di2) on my gravel/touring bike. its the opposite of economic, but i just love di2 on the road bike so i wanted to have the tourer setup the same way, but with more range. its 40/30/22 front and 11-42 back. i really like this range, its basically a 1x most of the time, but i can downshift to the 30 where others cant, and if i use the bike with luggage on long tours, the 22 is so low that i can even recover on long steep climbs after a hard and hot day. slow walking pace with decent cadence is still faster than not going the last leg of the journey at all. and the jumps on the front are much smaller than on a 2x which is nice for fine-tuning. pretty perfect drive train for touring. but i can easily see how no one wants this anymore on MTB - its so much faster and easier to bomb through a wide range 1x.
Might be out of fashion but it still serves a purpose for some riders. There are occasional situations where I think having a 3x would be a benefit for me, but the heavier weight and more complication & opportunity for malfunction makes me stick with 1x on my mtb & 2x on my road bikes.
Hi, I ride double and triple since the mid 80th. For racing use, douple is better (or single), because of simplification. If you understand triple and can handle it (easy), I think, triple is the better way for all other uses. The old forged Shimano triple 110 driven by you, Henry, is an nice and charming piece. I also ride and like Ritchey, Sugino and Suntour XC Pro in 110 and 94.
it might be old fashioned but it still works great, you need to get your head around the triple shifting but when that has happened! magic! triple together with a nine speed cassette is still my favorite!
Great discussion. To me, the triples seemed to fall into disfavor as brifters became the predominant shifting system. Triples require longer cable travel which doesn't always play well with brifters. And mechanics became unfamiliar with setting up triples. While maybe not great for racing, they seem excellent for touring and bike packing where drive train wt is not so critical.
I have found that a 40-30-22 chain ring with a 11-34 cassette will let you go up any hill you want to. Yes I run a 9 speed setup. I have front and rear panniers and can also pull a Bob trailer fully loaded with no problem at all. It's not fast but I'm not in a hurry anyway. I have tried so many sets on my Surly Disc Trucker until it's not funny. I live in Caribou Maine and where I live I have steep hills. And not many trails to ride. It's funny to watch people looking at you as you go up a steep hill fully loaded with eas.
A 3x will ALWAYS be heavier than a 1x not because of having two extra chainrings but because they are not offered in higher end levels so they are made out of aluminum or heavy steel and not titanium or carbon fiber. But the benefits works well for a touring bike. In fact, I’m building my touring bike right now and using an old 3x drivetrain because they are easier to work on around the world. Can you imagine being stranded in South America and finding parts for a SRAM or Shimano 12 speed? Same with brakes, stick with cables on a touring bike and schrader valves. You won’t find a presta pump at a gas station. Just a few other things to consider. 😅
I do not think you can beat a Shimano XT 9 speed triple for touring. I have a double on an Audax frame I had made and asked for the dent to be put into the chain stay to accommodate a triple when i am older! Fantastic video! Thank you.
Shimano still makes Dura Ace bar-end shifters in 9 speed with a friction shifter for the front. Road bike shifters in 9x3 are readily available on the used market and there may even be a low-end new set available. 9 speed "mountain" cassettes are still available in XT level quality and lightness. Those huge 1x cassettes weigh twice as much as XT 9 speed cassettes if you compare it to the all-steel Deore.
Chainline. I think triples have the best chainlines when set up correctly. Especially if you have an odd numbered cassette with a middle cog to line up with the middle ring.
Triple 9/10 speed vs. Double wide-range 11 speed. Triple has smaller jumps between gears. Triple usually requires fewer double shifts. The most commonly used gears are in the middle chainring of a triple, and at the extreme ends of the small/small and big/big combinations of a double. The double usually requires more front shifts (with corresponding adjusting rear shifts), especially when starting and stopping at intersections. Weight is about the same. An 11-34, 11-speed cassette weighs more than a “touring” 9/10 cassette, and the heavier wide-range double cassette cancels out the weight of the small chainring on a triple, and all of the other components weigh about the same. 7/8/9/10 speed chains are probably more durable than 11/12 speed chains, despite manufacturers’ advertising to the contrary. The 2 disadvantages of triples are slower front shifts (even with high-end ramped and pinned road triples) and unavailability of parts for discontinued triples. The slower more deliberate front shifting is probably not a problem for the kinds of riding that most of us who watch this channel do. Difficulty obtaining parts is an issue for those of us who are are maintaining triple groupsets that were discontinued 15+ years ago. For a new bike build, the parts issue, now and looking forward, might tip the scales toward a double. A lot of this comes down to personal preferences.
Thanks for your thoughts and sharing your experience with triples. All great points, especially on front shifting being a little slower, and more cumbersome compared to rear shifting. That's an important factor to consider in choosing a bike and riding style along with parts availability. With a good range of front rings, I find I typically only shift between the middle and big on paved surfaces, and the middle and small when I'm off-road.
Personally I don't see where the triple was ever broken, so no need to fix it. I've always loved the gear range. Biggest problem with them is they're barely made any more, certainly nothing high end. Shimano still makes a few but nothing above lower end commuter level. Replacement rings with life remaining can be found used with a bit of luck, but I'd be happy to see triples come back so that maybe companies like Race Face would start making them again.
I’ve had a triple for a long time and have loved it. I just bought a 1x11 group set for my Surly. But your video reminded me of the advantages of a triple. Now I’m wondering if I’ll be happy with the switch to 1x.
Love my triple. Really like that bike you built as well. Still think you need to get that welder and create the "Wildberry" machine. How cool would that be!
My 13s "custom" cassette is 330g (10-40) and together with 38t front chain ring is probably lighter than most of the 3x9 setups. Still quite good range with nice jumps between cogs.
For me a 1X is for mountain bikes off road and 2 X 10 for everything else even touring. I ride a xt 26X36 front with a 11X42 rear on my touring bike. Just my thoughts
When i run a triple on my Surly 9 speed, i like the unusual combo of 44-36-24. If running a triple, a friction shifter is way better and allows trimming. Imho with the advent of wider rear cassettes like an 11-32/34/36 a triple is semi redundant, and i'm currently running a 42-26 double, replacing the above triple. Certainly on older 7-8 speeds with a high gear of 26-28, a triple is still the way to go.
Using a web site that will calculate the gear ratio for my 2x12 drive train there are several redundant gears. The numbers may not be exact duplicates but are close enough so that a casual but enthusiastic rider would not know/feel the difference.
I would contend there is also a case for triples in road cycling. The recent trend to use 10 and 11 tooth cogs on road cassettes is a suboptimal choice; the ratio gaps and chain losses are both too large IMO. For Road cycling in particular, narrow ratios are preferable because they allow small changes in cadence which are essential at high power outputs. As such, a 12T or 13T cog should be the smallest. At the other end, even with an 11 speed cassette, the largest cog should be not be more than 30 teeth, otherwise you need big heavy derailleur and the ratios start to become too wide again. So at the crank, the good old 53T or 54T ring paired with the 12T rear cog is needed for the tall gear, but at the low end, a 39T chain ring with a 29T tooth rear cog is not short enough to spin on a 15+% grade, and that is where the third front ring would be a huge asset. A 26 or 28 inside front ring would be perfect for the super steep stuff. As things stand today, when I think I might encounter a very steep climb on a club ride, I have to plan ahead and select a different rear wheel with wider ratios, and swap in a long cage derailleur. A triple would be a far better solution. I just wish they were still readily available.....cheers/
I've got a 2018 Specialized AWOL, all steel touring and gravel bike, and it came with a three by system (50-39-31 and 12-36). No one else I ride gravel with has a three by, but I really like the range of gearing that my set up has. I don't really want to go with either a 1X or a 2X. Bike shops in my area aren't encouraging a 3X. Not sure they will do it for me. I'm not a bike mechanic, so I'm unsure what to do about the replacement I'm getting close to needing to do. I'm not sure why the industry has dumped the 3X system. They have been doing great for me. Thanks for the video! Hopefully 3Xs will make a comeback.
I pilot a Tandem with a ten speed tripple, its difficult geting enough range and good stopping power with a tripple. I have gone from 52 38 30 to 48 38 28, i would like to try a modern hydraulic braking tripple.
For my rig I use a double up front with a 10 speed rear. I use a front 30/54 rear 11/46 gives me all the range I need. You pretty much cannot go wrong with a triple front though, to get the same range of gears. I have standardized on hollowtech for all my bikes now, just to simplify the tools and components laying around. I just do not get the attraction of 1x drive train, for me do not provide a large enough gear ratio spread.
@rollinrat4850 Road and mtb derailers and shifters have the same pull ratio for 8,9,10 speeds. I use drop bars, so I use 10 speed road shifters, with a xt long cage 9 speed rear derailer (works for 8-10 speed road shifters). I also put on a 30mm derailer extender. Front derailer is an Ultegra front shifter. I am 70 so speed is not the most important thing, I keep it down to 80 km/hr on the down slope. If I was younger I could add a lot more. My legs are not what they used to be so I need the low range for comfortable climbing. I have 3 bikes with the same setup, work very well for me. Again when I was younger I did not need the range. These days I only ride 2000 km per month.
Heading out in a few days on a Henry wild berry inspired credit card bike tour later this week on bike I recently converted to 1x. :-) I'll try to report back on whether I hate it. 10 speed, 38t in front, 11-42 in back. All paved and planning a pretty chill pace.😂
I too have several 3 chain ring bikes. This includes a road, a touring and a gravel bike. I also have 2 road bikes with 50/34 chain rings and a 10 sprocket 11/36 in the back. A single chain ring bike with a cassette the size of a dinner plate in the back makes no sense to me because as you said it gives you at best 12 gear combinations. I'd be interested in the chain ring and cassette combinations you use.
I was so sold on triples, for many years. I bought a 2013 Roubaix and got a drivetrain group to convert it to triple.................it worked. It was the last year of Shimano 10 speed and mine never quite shifted right no matter what was done. Regardless, I got a 2020 Gravel bike with GRX 810 2X and 11 speed..........an 11/40 cassette got popped on the back and voilah! As low a gearing as I needed, as low as most triples. I did not miss fiddle #ucking around with that triple crankset. Not a bit. A triple gets the least bit wonky and drops the chain when slapping a shift going up hill. I was still sold on triples till I tried the 31/48 GRX front chain rings and 11/40 cassette. Usually can get by with the stock 11/34 cassette for normal climbing. ---------------------------------------- I see very, very few holdouts wanting or having a triple anymore, next to zero around here. Technology has moved on.
Triples maybe out of fashion, but they're the sensible choice. A subcompact set provides a pretty good range, but that 16T gap throws off cadence, resulting in a 1 or 2 cog shift at the back. I recently changed to a 30-40-50 triple, more range and no big gaps.
I actually converted a bike I recently bought to 3x. It just works better, and is somehow more fun, for the "all terrain" kind of riding I do with that bike.
Yep…. I like triples, they seem more flexible in how you get the gears you want/need. I think a lot of the perceived anti triple thing is racer and marketing driven. I also think dinner plate 1x are pretty ugly… and heavy. What chainring sizes and cassette do you use Henry?
What turns me off from using the triple is how difficult it is to shift into each gear, I'm just too lazy to want to exert that extra energy to shift. Granted, maybe I've never used a good FD/groupset
Like Disc Brakes, the bicycle industry is behind the changes. Any of it works well, installed and adjusted properly. The bike industry has to invent reasons to buy more crap with money we dont have
I still run 3x8 and my preferred chainrings are TA, from Peter White Cycles in possibly the most bolt patterns and teeth combinations of all. They are thick at the teeth and offset for 8/9 speed though labeled 9/10 speed on the 110/74 Zephyr/Zelito chainrings I have. Is that crank 94/58?
Maybe im a Fudd but both my current bikes are triples. One is twelve years old. My only concern is finding parts. Otherwise im completely fine with them
I still have and love the triple on my touring bike. The 1x on my mountain bike gauntness my not being in the right gear... hate the jumps between gears.
I just rode 600 miles down the coast from Santa Rosa to LA with a 1X set up 12 spd and it worked flawlessly-- I mean extra gears would have been nice up some of those 12% climbs but honestly the simplicity of the 1X was such a mental relief - I think it really depends on your fitness and riding styles -
Excellent video. I totally agree with you, I think triples are underrated. How many miles do you roughly get out of the nine speed chain before you are thinking of changing it? Keep up the good work 🚴🚴🚴
A triple? I do have a Cannondale T800 which is a touring bike I got in the year 2000 with a triple in the front. It has 700 x 38 tires. I did change the cassette for lower gears. Out of the three bikes I own it is my favorite.
Triple is outdated. But think they’re great anyway! I personally have been running a wide rage double 44/26 with 11-32 cassette. I’m a slow poke so I never feel the need for a “bail out” gear on the top end. What is your rear derailure and cassette on this build?
The rear derailleur is a Shimano XT 11 speed coupled with SRAM 9-speed shifters. For some reason the ratios all work together, provided you use a 9 speed cassette. On the front I have an older 8 speed Xt derailleur with a Shimano M730 crankset. The biopic chainrings are ovalized, so I plan to swap those out with round rings soon.
I've said it before and I'll say it again(even if no one is listening) bike evolution should have stopped in the 90s. V brakes and threadless headsets were the last actual improvements in practical bike design.
