Triumph Bonneville T140: My Top 5 Mods 

I’ll second the EBC brake mod. My 140 has the EBC pads clamping a single Dunlop SS rotor. The confidence I feel with that brake is better than on my 1987 BMW K75, with twin Brembos. The Bonneville is the best handling of all my bikes, including a 3 year old Enfield Interceptor, my newest machine. I’m quite satisfied with the TomTom 550, bulky as it may seem. A surprise for me was the satisfaction with the Dunlop K70s. I’ve come to believe that this 50 year old design may be the best all around touring tire for those of us (me), who no longer scrape the foot pegs at every corner. They are good on marginal roads, good in the wet, and last longer than more modern tires. This last bit is important to a long haul rider in the Western US, as I am.

An interesting take on SatNavs...I grew up touring with mapbooks and I’ve never felt the need for turn by turn instructions, whilst riding. To me, it’s an unnecessary distraction that detracts from the detatchment that is riding. Some of the best and most memorable rides meeting interesting people have been when I’ve got lost! It’s the same reason I don’t have earphones for music or communication devices. The solitude and uncluttered headspace is unique to motorcycling, why spoil it? Ride safe! 🏍👍🍺🇿🇦

Absolutely spot on. Thanks for the excellent summary. I have had my T140V since 1986. It has had the same boyer mk1 (amazing),and progressive front springs since then, with zero problems. I added the extra oil filter and EBC bronze brake pads along the way, and it's as reliable as a Honda, with all the fun of a classic Bonneville. People rip on the OIF bikes, as compared to the 60s ones, and I own both, but for my money, the 78 T140V is the best bike that the old Triumph company made. Reliable,.fast, comfortable, handles well. When I want to go for a long ride it's the bike I take, because I know I will get me home and not be too sore when I get there. Hell, it doesnt even seep oil! How'd they figure that one out !? Too bad they managed it too late to save the company.

I've done some of the same mods to my T140V, which I've had for nearly 30 years. First thing was electronic ignition, a Boyer system on mine (the factory is less than half an hour from me). I also fitted the paper filter conversion, about 20 years ago, but I took it further and fitted a longer stud, so it uses 2 elements to increase surface area. The original front brake, with chromed disc, was never very good, especially in the wet, so I replaced that with a plain cast iron disc and racing pads (it was so long ago I can't remember the make), but the biggest improvement was 3 years ago when I replaced the standard 5/8" bore master cylinder with a 13mm version. It screws straight in, with the same fittings, but gives better feel and more leverage when you brake. Upgrading the charging circuit with a 3-phase, 180W stator and solid state regulator/rectifier, together with an AGM battery, has made the electrical system work much better at low speeds around town, when you need the indicators to work. Apart from fitting new Hagon shocks about 15 years ago when the originals sprung a leak, and replacing front springs like-for-like when they got tired, I haven't changed the suspension, and have stuck with the Dunlop TT100s. I've done a couple of mods to the exhaust: the original had the push-in downpipes, but you can't get an effective gas-tight seal with those, so I had the head machined to take the screw in stubs and now it uses the clamp-on pipes, which seal perfectly. The most visible (and audible) mod to mine is the silencers. I ditched the original "cigar" style long ago in favour of the Norton style peashooters. Not only do they sound better, it runs better, with more grunt, and they last longer, because the originals are rust traps, whereas the more open gas flow blows the moisture out of these. At the end of the day, what matters is that it makes you want to get out and ride it.

I own a 73 T140 completely rebuilt and have fitted boyer, Norton Commando peashooters, Mikuni VM34's and a megacycle half race spec exhaust cam and it is a gem. It has now covered a total of 98000 miles and I have done many trips around n.america on it and it has NEVER seriously let me down. It has standard rear shocks but stiffer front fork springs and straight 30 weight oil and it goes extremely well. I have shocked many people on allegedly faster machines including my buddy on an old GS1100 though he will pull away after about 70. To my mind, these are the mods more suitable for a T140 but I guess it's all about personal choice.

Back in the 80s I was a mechanic at a BMW, Triumph and Norton dealership. We sold a lot of brand new Triumph T140D specials. I always thought there were the best bikes 1) because I always liked the T140 variant Bonneville styling and 2) because it came with some great upgrades. It had Lucas electronic ignition, Amal MKII carbs, two into one exhaust, cast wheels and beautiful black paint with god pin striping. It also had the usual T140 disk brakes fore and aft which was a nice modern feature.

+1 on adding an oil filter. I actually run the sump filter along with a canister filter in the return line on my Tiger TR7V. Keeping oil free of debris from various sources is essential for extending engine life. Also when you have a forty year old machine that has been sitting unused for many of those years, who knows what is hiding up in the spine of the frame that was originally meant to be filled with oil, that could fall into the oil supply at any moment . A lot of really big Triumph engine "blow ups" occur when one area gives a problem and the debris is circulated through the system wrecking every thing else. Then there is the dreaded sludge trap in the crank, why would you not want to keep that as clean as possible, for as long as possible?

I recognize that bike, my old mate had one. His was US spec, black with silver scallops. Great bike, still runs.

I have a 79 T140E which I have owned for 31 years. I've made quite a few mods but have tried to keep the original looks. By the way your bike was made with electronic ignition, Lucas Rita system, but it wasn't the most reliable so most have been replaced with modern electronics. Great bikes to ride and your videos are great also.

Hi, great video clip and thank you. If I may add, there are so many sensible mods available now to upgrade your old bike. I owned a Triumph T140v which is a Bonneville with a single carb head but many of these mods are equally applicable to other old bikes. I run a 750 Norton Commando now and I believe it to be the best and most usable of all the British parallel twins, I also should point out that it is the second one I've owned and that speaks volumes. Practical mods in my opinion which are really transformational and available in no particular order, 1, Belt primary drive. The first bike I rode with a belt conversion was a T140 oddly enough and I was so impressed I fitted one to the Norton. I takes the snatch out of the ride and gives it a more refined feel, not to mention reducing the oil content in general and removing the possibility of primary drive leaks. 2, As mentioned electronic ignition but one which incorporates an electronic voltage regulator. Much more reliable. 3, A modern gel battery. No more electrolyte spills corroding the frame and they hold their charge really well. 4, Harris clutch conversion for the T140 makes it so much lighter to use. 5, Floating disc and modern brake caliper available from most Triumph specialists gives you a modern front brake. 6, If you can afford it, and I accept this will probably only be done during a rebuild. Alloy barrels, much lighter and gives a greater fit with modern pistons making the engine much quieter and less likely to burn oil. 7, Replace the wiring loom, at best it is 40-50 years old not to mention any modifications its suffered over the years. Primarily most breakdowns can be attributed to electrical failures so get rid of it and give yourself some piece of mind. 8, Replace the switchgear for much the same reason as the wiring, it's not expensive and provides greater reliability. 9, Steel braided brake hoses they are a must, not least because the rubber hoses fitted as std are probably old and often overlooked but braided hoses prevent the hose swelling as the brake is applied. This for me is another one of those mods that once done you will do to all your bikes it just so much better. 10, Carbs, it's likely that the carbs you have fitted are probably worn out. This is another component that rarely receives attention until they give problems yet when they are good they change the running immeasurably and Amal carbs are not the most wear resistant of all the manufacturers. What to fit? Well at the very least a new pair of std carbs but Amal premiers if that's your bikes std fitment. They are constructed in a ethanol-resistant material to much better tolerances but the world is really your oyster if you are looking for an alternative. So that's my top ten. I could go on but the reason why in my opinion old bikes become more reliable is largely due to tactfully adopting modern upgrades which really bring the bike up to modern spec without visually detracting too much from how it was originally. Two more if I may There are many different cams available now which are superior to std items. I have a 4s cam in the commando which gives much more mid range punch. Lastly Electric Start if it's within the budget but as mentioned previously we’re not getting any younger! Lol.

I had a new '78 T140E. Came with electronic ignition as standard. Replaced the points of the earlier T140V.

Great bike lovely trip 🌴🤩🛫

EI is often mistakenly referred to as more reliable but I run magneto on one and points and coil on the other bike. Both are one kick starters, from cold. With the points and coil bike the unreliable aspect is more often down to a low battery voltage and as this system uses more juice than EI, it is seen as less reliable. The magneto of course, generates it's own spark. Properly restored and maintained, they're as reliable as anything else and low battery power is never a concern

Great stuff Proffessori, will await the sat nav vlog with baited breath.

1-Remove Zener Diode ,Rectifier and replace with modern voltage unit 2- install Boyer Ignition ,your 79 came with bad Lucas unit 3- Replace handlebar switches with nice ones 4-throw the junk front master cylinder in the trash and replace with a Brembo 5-get some real good rear shocks

The T140V, up to 1975 was in my opinion the best all round motorcycle ever made! Well, after doing a few upgrades. Boyer ignition, dynamically balanced crank, straight through pipes, Deloitte carbs, upgraded oil pump, to name a few. Also the right-hand gear change, is better suited for us older ones.

My 5 latest mods have been 1. adding neutral light switch (as my T140 is a late V early E model that never had one) 2. Adding a Morgo oil pressure gauge 3. Blocking the balance pipe so that the bike uses each pipe separately giving better back pressure and making the bike run way better using peashooters 4. Adding a hydraulic brake switch as the manual handlebar one never worked and 5. Adding a nice lower fork trim which I designed and sell hiding the ugly unfinished looking bottom yoke. And like your bike my one also starts first kick and is very reliable.

the bike sounds terrific !

There is one-mod that transforms a T140 , trade-it for a kawasaki W650 (couldn't help myself ).... I've owned a few Triumphs , the best of them was a 79 ex-USA-bike that never once let me down and didn't leak any oil . I am feeling-the-call for another British-twin and there is one for sale nearby that i should take a look at . There are some great-tips here . Dave nz

Great video and mods, I have done basically a few of the same on my 76 T140V (same paint as yours!). I have a Boyer in mine and added the dual output coil, set and forget. On the strength of your video I also added progressive fork springs and run 20w oil - thanks for that - bike feels much more dialled in. I have the paper oil filter also, recommened by a mate who rebuilds Triumphs amongst others. I'm going to order some of those EBC pads front and rear, the brakes, to be honest, are dreadful! I thought of new calipers and discs but will wait and see how the pads change things. I've also added a new set of Amals, so fuelling and ignition are dialled in, if they're sorted it takes many problems out the loop. I'll also order the navi, have been seeing this one on another channel, makes so much sense and of course I can use it on my Scrambler. I bought the T140 in April this year and I've had to do a lot of work on it, fixing a few previous bodge jobs, sorting some wiring, gearbox out and 2nd gear replaced, new clutch, rear shocks etc etc! I'm from UK but live in the Alps in Austria, the roads and ride outs around here are stunning, weather is great at the moment and will also continue to ride the T140 until winter kicks in! Thanks for all your efforts, love watching your videos, Andy

Nice production, thanks, and sensible mods that make a great bike better. Re. the EI...... Of course, it's good for all the obvious reasons, but the EI's advance curve is completely different from the stock centrifugal advance which simply goes to full advance all at once, and this changes the character of the engine, makes it a bit softer and more docile. The stock advance give the Triumph a slightly harder hit down low, and that's one of the characteristics I most like about a Triumph, that gutsy, kick in the pants it gives you when you grab a handful. Call me crazy, but only the centrifugal advance delivers the authentic 'Triumph feel'.

Really excellent format - talk and ride. I've done much the same mods - fork springs, electronic ignition, paper cartridge oil filter (Norton spin-on). But the thing that really seems to have transformed my 1973 T140 is a 80thou copper head gasket, that reduces the compression. The motor spins more freely, idles more smoothly and burbles along beautifully from 1500 revs in top gear. Also haven't done anything except check oil, pump the tyres and ride it for the last 6 months or so - very reliable.

Buen video👌

Interesting video, love T140s. I'd have a different take on some of your observations though. Your bike (T140E, E as in Electronic) came out of the factory with a very reliable (productionised) Lucas Rita electronic ignition, that you can still get rebuilt (given any electronic component is a bit suspect after 40 odd years.) Not knocking EIs in general though. Progressive springs are generally frowned upon by suspension experts as the damping is predicated on a specific spring rate. A better ride quality/handling mod is better damping from 3D Motorcycles damping rods, I've tried both mods. If you suffered excessive fork dive though, your standard springs were probably tired? Our riding group (The Lemon Drizzle Gang) all used Beelines in Spain and France last year at my insistence (as the "navigator") so everyone knew the route. To be honest they didn't work that well when presented with complex junctions. I lost count how many times the group of 6 bikes had to perform U turns after taking wrong turns due to ambiguous info. The back-up TomTom proved invaluable,and I don't even like TomToms! Inline filters are a great mod, but if you're bike has done any serious mileage that sludge trap in the crank (which WAS the filter originally) is already nearly full (mine was at 30 odd thousand miles), so worth bearing (no pun intended) in mind. Finally, here's mine! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ct8OQHW3RTk.html

Motorcycle mechanics had a mid range tune article in the early 1980's, i had this done & the engine blueprinted with hyde gasket kit & some moderate porting. Ran it with campbell raygun stainless silencers which suit the tune perfectly & an in frame oil filter kit, lots of folk thought it had high comp pistons in too when they saw how well it went. When it would struggle to top a ton when i first got it I had to back off at 115 to 120 after.....! Used citroen 2cv oil filters & ford escort brake pads if i remember correctly. Still miss that one, sold to guy from nuneton TBB785S if anyone knows where it is now?

I'm guessing 20/43T final gearing ? I cottoned on to EBC HH pads a good few years ago, like you say the feel and confidence is great with these - I have fitted one-piece braided hose, and a stainless 13mm master cylinder which gives more braking force. Doesn't need much of a squeeze to bring you so a stop. Had to fit a Norman Hyde fork brace after that. Also, my rear shocks have custom spring strength (as i'm *ahem* slightly larger than average) which work really well. SRM clutch release plate with its radial bearing, 7-plate clutch, and a spin-on cartridge filter which looks ugly but works a treat, with correct spec synthetic oil keeping everything well lubed. I might fit the paper in-frame filter next oil change, and progressive springs do seem like a good idea at that price. On the downside, with its age and high mileage I seem to be doing more fettling than riding these days 🙄 but when it is running well, on a nice day with minimal traffic, it puts a huge smile on my face and that's why we do it.

I do like the smallness of the Beeline Moto GPS but the cost! $$$. Currently, I use a Quadlock Pro mount in the middle of the handlbars (above the lock) and also have the vibration kit mounted to it. My iPhone has the Quadlock case so the phone sits securely. I dont have a bluetooth setup on my helmet yet but I can see who's calling and pull over to chat. Plus I can just see the GPS for directions as well. I have a cheapy AliExpress USB charger that also has a voltmeter built in that sits adjacent to phone mount so I can charge the phone.

I like how quiet your bike seems to be. What type of exhaust are you running? I have a 73 TR7V stock everything. Wish it wasn't so loud.

TR6R, so a bit older.. 1. Electronic ignition, clearly the best update. 2. Improved Z beam headlamp. 3. Cut the extension off the main stand, you can still use it but it does not catch the road.

Why dont we have the T140 triumph here inNew Zealand,

Hi; mate, for sure that you have a pompous way to talk; may be you as a British sound natural but was a bit difficult to watch all the clip without change to other video; anyway; in my 79 T140 (with low handlebars) I have several modifications but this bike is for transportation (I can understand a lot what is reliable ha ha) I put around 10000km per year at strong speed of 115-130km/h constantly for about 2-4 hours; on this bike. All my commuting is on the road; freeway; so almost always on top gear. Farthest trip around 1800km to neighbor Country. Some modifications are: -Dual plug head; so 4 spark plugs -Digital ignition tuned at 32ºBTDC for those sparks -Front double discs brake kit -32mm carburetors -Oil pressure gauge between the clocks -7017R ex camshaft -MAP clutch plates (never ever stick) In other 79 modified bike I have a N Hyde 7 plates clutch -N Hyde oil cooler -Black Diamond valves and springs -ARP connecting rods bolts ---Other modifications done by PO I get rid: external oil filter (there is no place for an stock 79 and the filter plus many hoses (2 times almost seized the motor due to rubbing hoses (new ones) and one time the filter was cut and oil all over the rear part of the bike where a buddy in other bike saw it; if not...) -Bearing on the rear clutch door to support "better" the gbox shaft -Feed oil directly to the timing chest like a car Etc Thanks

Do you have mirror extension pieces fitted to the stems?

i brake with gears saves the pads clears the jets !

You didn't mention mod No6. I noticed you sensibly kept the speed down to 50mph. This 'mod' avoids the terrible vibration inherent in the T140's.

the back brake is a slowing brake only !

change the oil in the primary every 250 miles keeps the engine oil mutch cleaner and its only 200 cc the book says 150 but 200 is better,all the crap off the primary chain tensioner gets re circulated round the engine.trust me its a good idea,

1st mod, buy a T160. 2nd mod EBC GPFAX pads. Thrash the nuts off it .....