My man, that's really good. And some really good advice. It's really crucial to get good precise parts to get all the frame squared, and the motion smooth; wheels must properly engage the track with even adequate pressure. Pulleys parallel to it's correspondent. Belts properly tensioned. I always think "center everything and square everything." -Billy Champy a.k.a Chosen One.
Thanks for the honest review. In terms of camera please decide what to show and keep that point in focus steady for at least few seconds. the constant camera movement really makes me dizzy.
yea sorry about that, it was a bit all over the place with the camera. i will mount camera for nicer video when i talk of about using a glass bed and if the auto leveling still works and how the prints are
thx for the info, i got not the pro version, waiting for it, hope i won't get much troubles with it since i'm a noob. Got it for the same reason, size, those extra mm will help me alot wish you good luck
these gt2 pulleys must be a big improvement, finally things can be adjusted, the 32bit cpu looks much butter. the 24v heatbed seems a good choice. The preassembled cable looms create a decent clean look.
Nice video - thank you. I'm concerned that you may get this newer version with steel rods as runners instead of the aluminium profile. They must be quite heavy, so the printer must struggle to move the whole carriage. I've seen a Tech2C video where he converted the steel rods to carbon fibre to reduce weight
Hello :) thank you for videos! Could you do another review now after 2 months? I got several questions: 1) how is the rail system? Is it usable or just cheap? 2) how about connecting to octoprint?
Hi Jan, I've been running the X5SA pro for a week now and have to admit it is excellent. Printed excellent out of the box but now I have got the belt tensions dialed down can print 250mm calibration prints accurately. (1) The new rail system is excellent and I cannot fault it. I wasn't happy with the roller adjustments from the factory so I spent some time adjusting each carriage to get them running smooth and without any movement. Spend some time doing this to get it right. To adjust the carriage wheels tension you can use some right angle circlip pliers and insert them in the loosened grub screws rather than removing them completely. this gives more control when tightening the wheel post bolts. (2) Re Octoprint I have my Raspberry Pie ready to go but haven't tried it yet. I've just been loading prints onto the Micro SD and running off it. (3) I designed a new fan cowl for the hotend which works much better than stock. It is lighter but also eliminates cool air blowing downwards onto your part, important when running ABS. Link is here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3965016
That was the first version of the I400 that I printed. Well that version is good, someone on thingiverse posted it there. I decided to I designed my own version. What a huge learn curve CAD was. I design this new I400, what pain. I printed most of it, but that is all. I may make a video showing what I have printed so far.
Can I ask a few questions..., I am seriously thinking of buying this. Are the pulleys the upgraded GT2 pulley or the same as the original x5s? Is there a spring washer on the pulleys that made belt alignment extremely hard or is it a standard washer config now? What is the belt made of is it the upgraded rubber or the same as the original x5s? Did you buy the bed insulation separate or did it come with it? Did it come with the buildtek? What is the amperage on the 24V power supply? How well does the autobed leveling work? please answer these questions for me.. thank you in advance
Ok I was told by customer support that the Pulleys are new to the Pro. My friend has the reg X5SA and his pulleys are not the same. Also the pulleys all came mounted. Meaning they were on the two front brackets and on the new rail brackets. All i did was put the brackets on and belt fit on perfect. As for the belts, they dont feel like rubber, so I think belt is the same. The Bed insulation came with printer. Buildtak type cover came with printer. I think the power supply is the same as the 2019 version of reg X5SA, its a 24V 360 watt. The autobed leveling system has worked perfect and easy for me, even the z high setup was good. The only issue for me was the bad nozzle and no instructions on adjusting new rail system. But both are now fixed.. So far i have printed a total of 150 hours on it using Hatchbox filament mostly. This is where I bought mine: us.gearbest.com/3d-printers--3d-printer-kits/pp_3004332154210735.html?wid=2000001
@@steamcastle2473 DO you happen to know when you assembled it did it have a MOSFET with it? Have you done large prints with it yet? If so did you get any layer shift?
OK I'm a total noob to 3D printing and accessories. My wife bought me the Tronxy X5SA as an early Christmas gift. I got it assembled and spent a month watching youtube videos on it. I finally powered it on yesterday and have had nothing but issues. I finally got most of them taken care of, however I still have one major issue. I'm trying to do the test print with the file that comes on the SD card and all I get is a diagonal line from corner to corner. After it does that line it sits at 1% and does absolutely nothing else. Is there any thing you could help me with in setting up?
First when you set your printer to home, does it home correctly? Next when you do a auto level, does that work correctly? If that works, go to www.thingiverse.com and Download the XYZ 20mm Calibration Cube and try to print that.
The one I have is the X5SA Pro. The X5SA Pro is 330x330x400, the X5SA 400 Pro is 400x400x400 and the X5SA 500 Pro is 500x500x500mm Bed. All have the same options other then the size of the bed is different. All three have new rail system, Titan Extruder, Auto leveling, Filament run-out detection and power off resume print. Please note if you live in US, they are finally here in bulk, the X5SA Pro is anyway. The X5SA Pro is selling on ebay from US sellers as low as $350 with free shipping when they have sales.
What kind of material is the bed? Not the heated bed, this black stuff with the company label on it. Is this flexible? I second the issue with the moving camera in this video. Better use a tripod or something like that.
My X5SA Pro is on the way but wonder if you can let me know whether the bed can achieve 100ºc and if so how long. I have always added mains voltage silicone beds to my printers and think I will upgrade to this but not worth wasting the money if teh stock machine works ok. Cheers
For the 330mm bed the 24volt system probably works ok. Likely just slower to heat up than a mains voltage heater. Might benefit from a larger MOSFET or relay if they are using a single on board transistor for the heatbed from the factory.
Hi i have a question when i print the block of go really good but when i print a burger object my sensor scrub it of the building plate because the sensor is not high inough from the build plate how can i fix that
in your slicer use Z hop setting. it will raise the extruder when it moves. Also make sure the Blue sensor is level with the bed. With the printer off. put hotend at center of bed and manual raise bed till Blue sensor touches bed. It should be flat on bed, not with front edge or back edge touching first
@@steamcastle2473 i think the probl is the z settings because i have set de sensor on different hights or the print is not good or the nozzle scrub the bed every print again the sensor touch the bed when i auto level all value are less than 0.8 so i think i need to set my z axes
@@davyneven4295 Ok from the sound of it, you must have a X5SA and not a X5SA Pro. However setting it up is basically the same On my pro i auto level a few time till its down to between .1 and .3. However with you X5SA you should be able to get it down to .4 after a few tries. Then after the last Auto leveling, set your z offset by putting a piece of paper on the bed and hit the z offset control. then slide the paper back and forth and move nozzle down or up till you feel friction on the paper and hit the set button. The I use the control and set the printer to home. Then try to print something
@@steamcastle2473 is was the z to zero that was the problem i have set the sensor and the nozzel to the same high than autobed level en than with a paper the z and save to zero and it Works Thanks men
I have one, was excited for it, and I'm tired of screwing with it. It is a good design overall, but falls short when it comes to actual printing. I got one good print, then that was it. It is unreliable, barely any documentation, and you have to figure it out for yourself basically. I've now lost a month of my life on it. Over time the wire carriage on top will drop and catch on the side then ruin a print, stepper motor will shift mid-print ruining hours of work, plastic belts loosen so you have to buy new ones and/or add tensioners. I'd rather spend money on something that works rather than taking up my life screwing with this one over and over again...mine is going in the garbage
@@ianyancey2919 Believe it or not, I finally got it working right. And my main problem was interfacing via OctoPrint. My Prusa prints a thousand times better, but it is working and printing ok
@@elmexicanoforlive I finally figured out that the main issue was going through Octoprint. the TronXY proprietary interface acts differently and was replying with errors on some commands. It took a while, but I finally found the Octoprint patch, applied it, then it started to work reasonably well and not skipping/shifts. Then I got used to how to level it, and to be super careful with touching the sides so it didn't mess that up. I also added a piece in the back to hold up the gantry better. I still don't like it. Don't us it much. I use my PRUSA and Ender all the time with no issues.
Hi, just watched your vids, ive just got a Tronxy x5sa 500 pro.... But I'm having a major issue with the bed raising up and digging in to the nozzle.... even when i go to auto level the bed, it raises up too high initially and then it's all off... any ideas. Cheers Matt
@@steamcastle2473 i give up with it.... now one z motor only works. So wired them up to work on one conection into the motherboard. Now they both go up and down. Still can't get the bed to stop crashing into the print head. Ive reset Z of set more time than I care to imagin. I can only conclude that i have a faulty printer.
@@FishEyECameraKits Also you have the blue leveling sensor slide all the way down correct? As i totally forgot that when i had the blue sensor slide up on the 2 screws that hold it, it went into the bed. I totally forgot that happen to when i first turned on the printer. it was so long ago.
Great review and video. I just ordered one of these based on your review. Thanks for sharing! We are new subscribers now and made sure to Thumbs Up! :-) Cheers!!!
@Steamcastle Have a link to those metal brackets that are plastic stock, the ones that should be upgraded? I plan on getting this printer soon & wanted to order the metal brackets also.
here a link on amazon www.amazon.com/Hacloser-Stepper-Bracket-Printing-Profiles/dp/B0793TLQ8G/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=stepper+motor+plate&qid=1566611311&s=gateway&sr=8-13 or just do a search in Amazon for "stepper motor plate"
