It is the temp I read through the manual for it and the operating range is 20° - 60°. The 10° is a bit cold. I'm surprised those detectors don't have freeze supervisory capabilities like some do. I'd suggest raising the heat lamp up to 20° so it is within spec
@@nics-systems-electric I read it wrong it is -20°-60°. One thing to try is switch the detector in the bathroom to see if the problem moves. Or put the smoke on the heats base and the heat on the smokes base. Make sure the base isn't doing something. It is possible that something in the detector is faulty and is causing it to freak out.
Honestly, it could be anything climate related, and I would also recommend maybe trying a firmware upgrade on the system too, maybe it won't go catty wonkus as much, might or might not help but you never know.
My thoughts are is that the problem could very well be humidity related. Granted, my experience is more with smoke detectors as I know they very sensitive to rises in humility above 95% but since this is a heat detector (which I don't know a whole lot about) in theory it should not be affected by moisture but more temp like you say. However growing up here on the coast and having studied weather lots I do know that it is not unusual in Summer or early fall for relative overnight humidity levels to range anywhere from 70 to 100 percent (particularly if there's fog in the straits) What could be happening is condensation could be building in the detector overnight due to the higher humidity levels causing it to malfunction. The only other possibility is that the detector itself could be going bad. (but the again why is it happening only at night?) I would definitely say most likely being a heat detector that it's a low temp issue but if it turns out to be humidity; you could try also installing a humidistat that would turn on the light when necessary which would dry out the air and keep the moisture under control without raising the temp too unnecessarily high. Again don't quote me on this as my experience is more with smokes than heats. Lastly you could also experiment with another detector and see if the problem recurs. Good luck .
So that’s why when you open the door 🚪 to the bathroom after a shower at a hotel the smoke detector usually goes off everytime that happens I wonder if it’s connected to a panel or what is says on that panel when the steam reaches the detector
Love the content and videos Nic! Can you do a video showing how to do a power cycle a firelite panel? Happy holidays and I look forward to more awesome content.
Hi! Your videos are very instructive, thanks for sharing your experiences with us. I have a question about FSP-951 device, the problem is bought one of this and when I installed the NFS-640 shows lo val trouble, do you know what that mean?
When you say you can’t use notifier and fire lite detectors in a life safety system install. I have seen installs have mixed brands with pull stations, horn strobes, and smoke detectors. Sadly this is the normal from me where I live. 😂
I'm gonna go off on the basis that the detector is effectively acting like my Emac does during the winter it will turn on but the screen will only light up once its gotten warm enough... Perhaps you need to leave the Gen rooms heat lamp on for longer intervals?
I'm 99% sure its due to cold temperature, as soon as you opened the door to the generator building the trouble went away. Sience the warmer air got into the generator building it heated up the detector to where it could go into normal operating temperature. Just try keeping the temperature higher in the building and I assume it should go away. I looked it up and it claims the normal operating conditions are (0°C to 50°C) which kinda rules out all of this. A second problem might be just tampering with the detectors insides in general, without knowing it you mightve broken something. Pull one of the detectors off of your noti system and put it on the Fire-Lite SLC and see what happens.
It hasn’t caused any troubles in a couple months at this point since turning the heat up to above 10°C so I have left it for now if it acts up more I will switch it out to a new detector and see if it still acts up
We install lots of them as they take up a lot less space and heat up a space quicker than baseboard heaters they are definitely not very efficient but they make good supplementary heat
It's either a sensor issue mate, I got the same thing I installed myself, I have exact model same one, its a sensor issue usually when you bend the themostat back it actually kincks something in the diagram too the point a sensor goes bad
I also have a feeling it’s the temperature playing around with the detector, once you opened the generator building, it started polling. That’s not what usually happens for invalid reply troubles.
If it was the detector you fixed, then maybe it could have been the issue. But then again, the thermostat can’t cause a invalid reply. Try switching out the detector with the heat in the bathroom, and see if it causes invalid replies again.
Have you tried installing a new heat detector? First, test to see if the trouble comes back. If it did, even with the higher temperature, it has to be a defective heat.
It’s fine once the temperature is turned up a bit and it’s kind of hard to say if it would with another detector as some nights the trouble comes up and sometimes it doesn’t so it would be difficult to say if it is the detector or not
@@nics-systems-electric A heat detector having a problem in the cold is a new one on me. Go ahead and try a new heat detector. It may be entirely possible that when you opened the detector up, you might have disturbed the integrity of the watertight seal. Now, the watertight seal is probably defective or compromised, the moisture in the air condensed inside the detector and shorting out the detector and thereby causing your invalid reply. Then, the air heats up, the moisture evaporates again and the short goes away and thereby, your invalid reply goes away. This moisture would be in the detector head itself and not in the base...in the base and causing the detector to lose contact with the panel SLC. This could be what explains your "ghost trouble" situation with your fire alarm system. Try a new heat detector and see what happens. Heat detectors are not really meant to be taken apart as they normally don't need servicing, unlike a smoke detector. I have seen heat detectors from the 1970's and still in service because, they normally don't need service and so, aren't made to be taken apart. If a new heat detector doesn't remedy your "ghost trouble" problem, then I am at a loss.
@@chadrowland5234 possibly it didn’t seem watertight to begin with as the element protrudes through the plastic body that would keep water out so any moisture could just come in through that way hasn’t caused problems since leaving the heat turned up but that may be the problem
@@nics-systems-electric There's your problem! Why not put the suspect heat detector in the bathroom and the heat detector that is there now in the generator room. If the problem starts showing up in the bathroom, then you know for sure that it is the detector head. If the problem goes away, then you know for sure that it was the detector head. If the problem persists in the generator room, then the problem is probably the moisture content in the air or just the application in general. But try switching the two heat detectors (bathroom and generator room) and see what happens.
You do to comply with the listing however other brands will work as detectors that can run notifier flashscan can run the similar but less capable protocol litespeed depends on the panel and what firmware it is on
if the heat detector still keeps starting a trouble repeatedly, you might want replace the head. if the issue continues, you might want to look into a mechanical heat detector
@@BlinkOnWheels Mechanical detector might be more reliable but there still shouldn’t be a problem in the beginning may just completely get rid of the heat detector spot if it ever gives problems again as there is already a smoke detector and the temperature monitor thermostats which would give a supervisory
i think the only reason it has a min operating temp is because if it's too cold it might not detect heat fast enough 4:14 Sometimes calling things stupid can be therapeutic 4:50 i watched the vid. i dont think it's that ether 18:31 :) lol
Hasn't caused any problems in a while so I'm gonna leave it for now I know notifier detectors aren't listed for compatibility with firelite but as long as it's running lite-speed and not clip they seem to run lite-speed protocol just fine
@@nics-systems-electric that's easy for you our there in active system in building it probably happen in middle night on holiday and I would have go fix it so I wouldn't trust it but had detectors do that to me before and go into trouble at worst times Ps I never tried notifier addressable on firelite panel there suppose talk a different Language ,(Data) interesting to no that
@@richthepontiacguys1412 totally agree if it happens again I will change it for sure but keeping the temperature at around 10°c or more it hasn't caused any problems
@@nics-systems-electric If you suspect a manufacturing defect, if you have the original box for it, you could send it to Honeywell (or Notifier) and have it replaced, after all, you DID say you’d try a Fire Lite branded one, but try another Notifier one just to be sure, however I suspect a conflict in protocols as Notifier will natively support Notifier with zero flaw, but I can most likely picture some other arbitrary Honeywell addressable device on Fire Lite and it may work fine, I’ve not paid a lot of attention to your setup, but it’s pretty interesting to say the least Greetings from the US, where we PROBABLY don’t have those smoke/heat detectors, though the manual reading in F would suggest we do…
@@EnderShadowborne you guys definitely have them in the US there’s a few problems though number one is the detector wasn’t mine it came out of the school when it didn’t originally work during our verification and after taking it home and opening it the thermostat was bent under a piece of plastic which is why it didn’t get set off by the heat so I bent it back up so I bet that would void any warranty as I opened it I still don’t think that has anything to do with the issue though as I didn’t really change anything other than bend up the thermostat that was bent under in a place it shouldn’t be
Nope not listed under compatibility list but a notifier detector will work on a firelite system absolutely it's been done in buildings before. And yes it's not simplex that is quite obvious, that was a joke.
Gotten away with noticing firelite devices being ok with notifier firewarden notifier panels, but never 100% with onyx type devices ie: 320,640, &3030 being okay with firewarden panels or firelite , would run into super random loop troubles
@@YZFR16666 haven't done any tests with firelite devices on notifier however it would probably run on firewarden series fine not sure about running on flashscan however it is a similar protocol to litespeed as far as capabilities obviously having a few more in many cases it seems more to do with firmware as updates will not run others devices
Just sayin, Simplex would never do this. If you get the trouble again I would 100% do a firmware upgrade on the panel, those 365s might be newer than the firmware on the panel Edit: after watching the rest of the video, id say swap the Demo system head and that one and see if you get the problem on the 640, sounds like a dead head to me
@@nics-systems-electric Yea that would make sense, If you still have board the PCBs and sensors, from before the swap you could try seeing what rev they are, and same with the sensor, they might have used a different sensor in one of them that has a different range, so when it gets a little colder, it would tell the board the same the thing the original sensor would if it was like -50000. Wait you just bent it, not swapped it, right? I cant remember, the resistance also could have gone up when that happened, You could try a temp gun and a hair dryer to see exactly what temp makes it go off. I would not be surprised if it pre maturely activates, or wont activate correctly now.
