Troubleshooting a Bench Plane 

Chris- you have compiled all the things that go wrong for inexperienced planers and set those considerations forth in a clear, understandable manner. This video is a treasure!

Video really helped me figure out how to assemble my late grandfathers planes 👍🏻👍🏻 Great video

This has aged well. Good practical info. Verging into plane OCD, which really is not a bad thing 😄 Thanks!

THE best hand plane "troubleshooting" video I have ever watched. Bloody fantastic. Thank you.

I have learned more in this short 27 minutes, than I have learned in 35-40 years. My step father was a master carpenter and what little he shared with me, and then later working in a cabinet shop, I had a 'workable' understanding. But this taught me a lot of remedies to problems I didn't know how to solve. THANK YOU !

Thank you SO MUCH for your wealth of information! As a new woodworker, your advice gives me more confidence in being able to correct any problem I will have with my hand planes.

This was great! The part where the secondary bevel was too steep is exactly what fixed my problem!

This information so important and very detailed. This definitely helped me solve my issues. Every new woodworker should watch this video.

Absolutely a great video, thanks. This helps greatly. Very knowledgable. I’m not a big plane user but just kinda started with planes. Got a Woodriver #3,4,5,6 and was working with the #4 Jack plane. Got iron sharp enough to shave with with a mirror polished 25 degree grind and it’s like what’s going on here, I can’t make any sharper lol. Found the chip breaker screw loose and floating in the breeze 🤣🤣🤣 so your explanation really helps to understand

Whatever he puts out is never boring , what a great vid

I absolutely needed this lesson! Thank you!

Thank you for using cheap #4 for the demo! Very encouraging. :)

Very in-depth thank you for sharing.

A Type 11? Sweet! Great stuff here, thanks Chris!

On a Spear and Jackson No 4 it has a narrow mouth and I fitted a 2 part Stay Set cap iron . There is no frog adjuster screw at the back . It just has the 2 clamping screws with some room for movement . Just for fun I took out the front section of the cap iron and put the lever cap on with the screw wound in a bit. What a nice sense of freedom to use it like an old wood plane .No clogging or fussing with a chip breaker .A good hefty Carpenter setting .

Was not expecting Eric Clapton to be so much into woodworking

This was very helpful, thank you!

Great lesson, thanks for sharing it.

Excellent video, excellent teacher.

Very well explained. Lots of help.

First 2 minutes and I know this was what I needed to know. Thank you for this!

Great video. Learned quite a bit.

You can search half an eternity to find a video like that. Few of the most common issues every newbie runs into, when starting to plane.

Superb information!

When I compared my 3 Stanley planes -No 4 No 4 1/2 and No 5 All good pre war models , I found that they all had the lateral adjuster "dimple "or rivet pressing up on the cap iron. This was creating friction when I wanted to adjust the lateral lever. So by inserting some thin cardboard (nice and oily ) between blade and cap iron I now have a smooth adjuster and don`t start moving the lever cap screw which is totally innocent .

Amazing video. Great voice too

A Hock blade and (especially) chip breaker transformed my old WW2 era Stanley 4 1/2 into a fine tool. Had to flatten the sole a bunch and back bevel the mouth opening to get it to take really fine shavings. My next plane purchase will be a LN 5 1/2

Thanks, as I get more hand planes, I needed this tutorial.

I like that the thumbnail is the portion where he says "this is what you DON'T do"

Hi there from Portugal, Nice tips :D Obrigado(Thanks)

I have watched a couple of vids of Roy Underhill with him and found him to be very informative. Of course it takes someone that knows something really well to make it sound simple. First clue. Im on this guy like a dog. There is always so much to learn. Best part he is not an old fart and likely to leave us soon....,

Outstanding!

Thanks Chris.

Thank you sir.. I should have watched this before spend 3 months to get plane work.

Very good and usefulninformation for me as beginer.

Thank you Sir 🎉

Such great and wonderful info,.,.,.,. please tell me this will not be deleted ????

Your voice is so amazing

that ice cream metaphor is perfect

Good stuff.

Hey is that a Hock blade and chip breaker you are using there? The blade has those nice swirl marks from a Blanchard grinder? Original blades work pretty good but the metallurgy on the new ones is better.

That is a beautiful voice

What if your plane sole falls between the high spots. Wouldn't you need to start with a longer plane?

Where can I get this full course or DVD?

What DVD was this from? Thanks!

how about checking the tail end of the plane with the feeler gauge while you are holding the the straight edge to the mouth of the plane. 4:41

I didn't hear you mention bevel orientation...up or down?

Is this an excerpt from his "Handplane Basics" DVD?

The question I have about a plane not cutting is when I am trying to plane very hard woods like osage orange or olivewood. How do I get the plane to bite into woods that are very dense and have a high janka number.

I'm a retired Carpenter from Liverpool UK and have never seen any of these Stanley planes, only "Made in England "

I`ve found that usually it`s my stance & not holding it right

Would you know the reason why my plane isn't cutting full shavings? Its only cutting in the center of the blade. I tune it up pretty good that know of, the sole seems to be pretty flat, the blade is sharp, im getting good thin shavings just not full shavings, the blade is straight and true, everything is tighten down, could i get some help about this problem

One of the biggest things I've seen with the uninitiated is, putting the iron and chip breaker together wrong. Most often with the iron bevel up. And the other thing is the chip breaker too far away from the edge.

How to flush the front edge of the chip breaker with the plane blade at interface. I am collecting shavings under the chip breaker. Stanley #4 bench plane.

Chris keeps saying "as we talked about before". Are there any links to the THAT video?

I had a problem when I bought a new iron for an old No. 6 and the throat wasn't open enough for the blade to fit and allow shavings to move above the iron.

Thanks for the video. Iam completely new to planes. I bought a used craftsman 107 14" . I can not get the blade to retract inside enough to not take a shaving. My frog is completely flush. I assemble the plane, it adjusts out, and almost... almost back in fully, but still is protruding about 1/32" HELP... anyone, I can not figure this out after repeated videos.

Should tighten the chip breaker (cap iron) screw against the bench, not your hand. If you slip, you get a screwdriver into the palm of your hand - it hurts, from experience.

how to plane soft and knotty pine - that's a pain!!!

👍🏻

Hi, great video. I heard that a little wax on the soul of the plane can help a lot. Do you agree and if so what kind of wax? Cheers

Which DVD did this come from?

Loose dogs, tight frogs and flat feet! Oi!

thank you for hti s!!! a lot of mis information out there,.

This was very good, but I'm still getting hard bites and skips even on soft woods. If anyone wants to chime in, feel welcome to do so.

Chris's "Brother-in Law" is a "know it all, jerk". LOL

Isn’t your bench too low?

Solution: 100% wooden plane

la Casa de Papel

Chris, love ya man. Great video! But it’s a cap iron, not a chip breaker. Check the descriptions on the original Bailey patents.

My blade is razor sharp but I can't plane worth a SSSS 🤷🏻‍♂️

Surely you'd put that wood in a vice though?

SCORCHED audio.

Good information, bad camera work.

The voice is so over-compressed it is very off-putting to listen to. Other than that - great video.

to much drama here....

I'm really sure you can build it yourself. I did this 2 weeks ago thanks to the Woodglut plans.