Taryl Dactyl may not be for everybody due to the long running teeth gag. But if you can get past that, the guy has some great in-depth small engine and hydrostatic transmission teardowns, and gives good descriptions all the way.
The fact that you didn't edit out the spark plug brain cramp is part of what makes this channel so helpful. But it is the camera work (awesome closeups and clarity) that puts this channel on the top of the heap. I assume you often have to wrench using the camera screen as your guide because the camera is so close in on the work. And you are still doing it after more than a decade. Thanks
This video is more about fast accurate diagnosis, high quality parts replacement, correct toole & no time or parts wasted chasing wrong guesses than it is a Briggs & Stratton with a broken push rod. And that's why this small engine channel is worth subscribing to.
To be honest, this is probably one of your best diy videos that you've made. Easy to follow and to understand. You've taken a bit of the mystery out of adjusting valve lash. Thanks!! I'd also like to see the PTO fix.
Must be difficult sometimes dealing with customers. They treat their machine so poorly then wonder why they have problems. Video is a good idea. Nice job Don
@@donyboy73 Been in business off and on for years, i know how you feel. I find there so many garages now that are dishonest that people are being overly cautious. My neighbor has a 9/28 Honda snowblower. Had trouble, took it to Honda, i told him to make sure he got his old parts. The soaked him for a new cylinder, piston and more. There was absolutely nothing wrong with what they took off. So you are smart, video tape everything. Before i sell a refurbished blower i tape it being used then i have the customer use it . One customer bought one that worked perfectly and had something go wrong and he took it to a repair shop who replaced new parts i had i had put on. I sent him the videos and told him he used it and it worked perfectly. So you are right, we need to be careful, but at the same time understanding.
@@donyboy73Sorta like watching an Adolescent with their 1st. car. 😉 They get in and turn the key, and just keep driving it until it just won't go anymore... 🥴 Then they stand their scratching their head and run straight to Dad ! 😕 My Dad handed me the tools, grabbed a lawn chair, and Iced down a cooler full of beer, and sat through the entire process in Pure Amusement ! 😂 ALL Instruction was strictly Verbal... ☝️🤨 I DID learn about Coil Charge that day, though... 😏
@@kcstereoSpot On ! 😉👍 Wasn't properly locked down on assembly, or last adjustment... 🤷🏼♂️ They could have been bouncing back and forth on the adjustment, and simply forgot to lock it down ? 🤔
I've now learned the proper way to check/adjust the valves after watching many on youtube. Thanks Don for that. Your short concise explanations are always spot on.
My 24hp briggs had the bronze/brass valve guide bushings 'walk' out of position, so the rocker arm hit a hard stop, the push rod ended up in the crankcase. Backyard repair: I drilled (half in bushing, half in head) in 3places, 1/16" .5" Dp and installed 1/16" split pins, a radial spring. As the engine heated up, it locked these radial springs to the head and bushing. I also swage locked these bushings, by peening around the circumference. Been going close ten yrs with this "fix". Still going.
Good instructional video on this procedure. Something caused that valve to bend; I wished you would have shown what the valve guide position was on that bent pushrod side as a check to make sure that valve guide had not walked out..
Doctor Don to the rescue once again! Don thanks so much for creating some of the best content on youtube! Always great camera work and closeups, great explanations so that many of us can learn from and duplicate your procedures. Thanks for being a great guy brother!
I like your videos because first of all I believe you are honest and you explaining every detail and causes, I'm sure I'll learn a lot from you. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with people.🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂. I pray GOD to bright your days with happiness and success .
I've run into this problem before, and repaired it like you did, the only thing different is that I will pour some mystery oil in the fuel to lubricate the valves.
i always use high octane fuel with some marvel mystery oil and seafoam. never had any issues with carb or starting. i dont bother to drain fuel from tank in the off season and never fails to start.
I think that, over time, the valve lash became excessive on that one valve. It let the push rod slip out of place and was bent. For a long time I didn't know that the valve lash should be periodically checked and adjusted on these engines. Now I try to remember to check it once a year so I won't have the problem that you show here.
I have the same machine, for over 20 years, and had same issues. My PTO issue was the switch. I only use it for winter with snow thrower now. Need to rebuild carb this summer. Great videos.
I bet the rocker was so loose that the rod popped out from the trailer vibration. Probably didn't happen before that because the mower only ever moved under its own power, with the engine running.
Good Work Don I had purchase my lawn tractor Huskyverna I want stay away from BS motor I had buy a 20 hp with a Kolher motor then I was able to switch the same tractor with a Kawasaki motor 18 hp so far am very happy with my pics I do air blower after each use and change the oil + filter after the end of the summer .I also use super unleaded without ethanol .I guess any motor will last longer if well maintained
A bent pushrod could also be caused by a valve guide which has moved inside of the cylinder head so that's something else to look out for, it's mainly a problem with the exhaust valve guide but, since an aluminium pushrod was mentioned I assume that the Inlet valve pushrod was bent. I know in the Honda GSV & GCV190 engines which also have that problem with the exhaust valve guide that causes the exhaust valve rocker to crack as well,In that case it's an overhead cam engine but !
I just had a similar issue with mine. I replaced the bent pushrod and the new one bent as soon as I started it. It ended up being a broken connecting rod and I suspect that it bent / destroyed the cam. It`s best to do a compression test before doing any work on it - I learned the hard way!
had one just like this yesterday , purchased the mower from a guy said it will crank and crank but wont start, did the usual, gas in carb , clean carb ,check spark , check valves. Bingo!!!!! 2 were so far out of adjustment that the pushrod was out of contact with rocker , kawasaki engine , luckily nothing bent , fired right up
What a great video. It gives me the confidence to mess around with my small engine equipment. I recently changed my valve cover gasket and used some RTV sealer. It worked out great. I attribute my success to videos like these. Thanks again!
Always love your videos I have champion generator 9375 and tge carburetor is clogged with old fuel won't stay running when I move through chok we over is that an easy fix where I can do it or send it out
I had a similar issue last year with my Kohler Command Pro V twin-powered Walker. It wasn't a bent push rod but one of the rocker arms came loose causing some similar but weird issues for the engine. Actually, both cylinders one after the other. It runs well enough now but the oil keeps disappearing after a few hours and I even tried 10w50. Probably issues with the rings because it produces a hazy exhaust while using it.
Good job, thanks for the video. I recently bought a new Westinghouse generator which recommends adjusting the valve lash after the first 25 hours. Your video will be helpful in making me more comfortable when it's time to do that. Thanks, your help is invaluable.
I once had a spark plug in my while turning a mower over and yes same hand as l was turninf the key with. Just adjusted the valves after cam change. Good times great video
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ What an impressive diagnosis. Having worked on many of the B&S engines I would welcome your insight on what might have bent the push rod? I’ve seen way too many single cylinder ones that have the known compression release issue, but few 2 cylinder ones with this issue. As always I support and recommend your channel to many just to make them aware of things like this that are unforeseen. I’ve actually started to video the disassembly to document and avoid any potential for a finger pointing contest. I well done repair and great advise for anyone doing repairs.
Very interesting and useful video to check and adjust the valves very fine! .......But how is't possible to use a mower with such a dirty motor?? 1,45mn incredible ...the air filter out...oh my God !!
Another great video Don. But can i suggest that you advise less experienced people to start bolts by hand? I know you have an eye for starting it square to the frame. As a carpenter by trade, and having done all my own small engine repairs for a long time I do too but many do not and using a drill to start bolts could get them in trouble. Thanks for all of your efforts! LP
Hey Dony, I'm surprised you didn't blow that engine off before removing those valve covers and especially before starting it without an air filter installed! Your call however, not mine. Nice fix though!
Nice video Dony. That top rod might be slightly bent as well explaining the excessive lash. They both might have been bent and the bottom one finally popped out. Someone might have adjusted the lash to bending rods.
Just curious 🧐 valve settings the same for both intake and exhaust … .004 for both ?? I’m just curious - my experience is exhaust always has a few more thousand clearance. Great videos - keep up the great work. I enjoy watching!!!
@@donyboy73 Thanks, I suspect that "lack of maintenance" in this case, means inadequate oil change and or periodic valve adjustment. Thank you for the reply.
With the amount of dirt obstructing the cooling fins I would check the valve guide on the valve that bent the push rod. I have found Briggs & Stratton engines to be susceptible to guide movement when the engine overheats, which is a strong possibility in this case. The guides tend to move out, restricting the valve travel and with the lash close to 0, the valve cap hits the guide, and the push rod has to give.
Aluminum rods. That's crazy. I guess it's better than a steel rod punching through Good advice to video document things. And that lawn tractor could have been cleaned once in a while by the owner don't you think?
