@@matterwin8635 if i replace the board myself can you guys reimburse for the part? I ordered one that was in stock. I got a warranty approval but don't want to wait. The motor controller has a bad phase, only 2 out of 3 working and the other one just freewheels and burns power. Troubleshoot procedure: at certain blade angles the motor wont start. At other angles it will start. I do not believe it is a hall effect sensor issue. At least I'm praying it isn't. Those are in the motor
yes, in some position it will start. I already got the part assembly in and installed it. It fixed the issue. One of the mosfet must have been burned or shorted. This causes one motor phase to gain freewheeling current, the other 2 have to fight it. The mower works again. I used the part for LM2150SP because the LM2135SP part is discontinued. But it is really the same compatible part. I ordered 2830831001 4907.2_Main Electric Assembly × 1 from power+parts. It was $90. @@matterwin8635
I have the flashing orange light and led lights and self propelled drive work fine. Fuse checks OK at 0.5 ohm. MOSFETS to large PCBA and motor check fine. Only issue I see is that I don’t see any lights on the smaller PCBA with battery properly connected. Is the smaller PCBA likely bad?
Note, the mower motor starts with the blade removed. I removed the blade, cleaned things up and retorqued to 40 ft-lb. Same problem but the blade did start spinning 1/10 attempts.
Lowe’s gave me a brand new 2150 for my 18mo old, dead 2130. Of course I removed the cover and wondered if I’d see a blinking green light on the smaller PCBA. I did not.
I picked up an older model EGO mower (LM2100) the other day for 100 bucks, hoping to make lawn maintenance a tad easier, except the guy didn't tell me it has a strange issue. It tries to start up and immediately stops. It is almost as though its sensing an overload condition at the beginning and decides to turn off. Every once in a while it would get past this and work fine. I am planning to take out the PCBA to try and figure anything out. My guess is some component on it is rated range. Do you have any more knowledge about this problem?
A very common problem with the earlier models was/is the interlock cable running from the handle assembly back to the power unit. Take the mower with the Button pressed and the bar engaged and then move the handle through its range of motion, from normal to folded. If it quits anywhere within that range then its a bad electric wire cable.
No actually it is really not ether of them. In that unit the pcba uses that signal to recognize that the battery has been installed. I called it data as it is signal that the battery was installed. And the flashing red to green light happens when that wire is broke or disconnected. We decided what the pcba is programmed to do in response to what signal it gets from what wire. (Wonder is I can say signal few more times) anyway yes in some we use the D tab as data back and forth from the bms in the battery to the bms in the tool and some just need to know the battery it there.
My mower will not turn on and I have a solid orange light when attempting to start it. Lights are working and the self propel works fine. I don’t see a light on the PCBA however. I’ve tried multiple batteries with the same result.
I have pulled mine apart twice for the same issue ... found nothing, put it back together and it went... Now doing it again ... does sound like a connection issue, maybe to the motor thermistor as the solid orange light is a thermal fault (I think) and heat is definitely not an issue with my problems
This 2140 has a brushless blade motor. Hit a rock. The mower will self propell but blade does not turn. Fuse blown, bypassed fuse with copper wire (for testing) and the blade turns backwards and stops. Tested blade motor and is good. Tested main board per this procedure holding the red meter pin to the negative (black) DC and the balck meter pin to the three conductor connector that goes to the motor. Test failed in two of the three motor conductors. I live in Panama (Central America) so I have to solve this myself. Already ordered P/N 2830176004 "Main Electric Assy" which is my best guess that is bad
Or broken you can check continuity from the connector to the middle blade when the battery goes. But it should be under warranty and that would be covered repair.
@@matterwin8635 new problem now, i replaced the fuse and now the green light turns on and blinks, the battery doesnt react, leds dont turn on at all, and mower doesnt start, im not sure what part to replace now since in the video theres no explanation for led lights not starting
@@matterwin8635 That is not a data line, it's a temperature line FROM the battery, not to the battery....The digital output from the battery in my 2130sp is not used. The battery has the two outer outputs of course marked +/- respectively. The two battery terminals in the center are marked T and D respectively. I've read several times elsewhere that the "T" is the internal thermistor of the battery and that the D terminal is data in/out from the battery. Only the T terminal is used in the 2130sp and it is the brown wire.
Somewhere in the below posts the OP answers some questions by erroneously referring to the "brown" wire between the PCBA board and the battery as a "data" wire when (as far as I know) it is connected to the battery "T" terminal and that in turn is connected to the battery's internal thermistor/temperature output circuitry and is derived from the battery's internal thermistor therefore is the product of an analog signal, not "Data". The battery also has a "D" terminal that is not connected in the 2130sp and as far as I know that's the battery's data in/output terminal.
No actually it is really not ether of them. In that unit the pcba uses that signal to recognize that the battery has been installed. I called it data as it is signal that the battery was installed. And the flashing red to green light happens when that wire is broke or disconnected. We decided what the pcba is programmed to do in response to what signal it gets from what wire. (Wonder is I can say signal few more times) anyway yes in some we use the D tab as data back and forth from the bms in the battery to the bms in the tool and some just need to know the battery it there.
The light on the handle of my 2150sp is blinking green and won’t start. The self propel works and both handle bar switches are engaging. I have tried everything I can think of. I don’t know what else to do.
The problem I’m having is my mow stopped abruptly. I have a full battery and the green lights are on the battery and handlebar but I can’t get anything work including the led lights.
My Ego LM2135SP lawnmower attempts to start but stops after a few seconds. The orange light is solid. When I try again, it won’t even attempt to start and just shows a solid orange indicator immediately. Removing the battery and reinserting it got it to start for a few seconds before stopping again. Battery is fully charged. Deck is clean with no obstructions. Self-propel and LED lights work fine. After removing the blade and attempting to start, I noticed that the mower runs for about 10 seconds longer than with a blade attached. While I didn’t look at how fast the motor was spinning, it did sound slow. Any ideas what could be wrong?
Ok if the main pcba (control bored) is bad it needs to be replaced. You should be able to get them E replacement. Com. I am teaching a class on fixing them now but I can get you a part number in few hours.
Thanks Already got the replacemnt today and installed, but left all batteries at my mountain weekend cabin. Pretty sure this will resolve the problem and will be able to do some much needed mowing. Will advise. Your procedures and explanations are very easy to follow. Great video !!! Makes me want to become an EGO dealer and service for Panama
Hello, i am having a problem, self propelled and led lights work but the motor is not working. I hear click sound coming from the motor. I tested the main pcba and one of the 3 conductor fail. Do you know where can i get that part?
Yes, I replaced the main PCBA . The is a troubleshooting video on RU-vid that shows how to test resistance on the motor and the PCBA with a multimeter. I was able to buy the PCBA and motor for $130 on ebay.
At 2:43 he is measuring OHMS, not voltage as he says in the video....The banner is also mislabeled as voltage. His meter is on the OHMS/continuity Rx1 scale and the battery has been removed prior to this step. This same issue is repeated throughout the procedure. He's always measuring resistance but his banners says Volts.
@@matterwin8635 the self-propelled unit does not work. I have confirmed that all switches are working and that all of the wires running from the switches to the PCBA have continuity. Also the blade motor works fine. Thanks
