Trub Dump from conical fermenter. Yeast harvesting from conical fermenter. I demonstrate my process and techniques while using the conical and its valves.
Hi there, thanks so much for your comment! It is funny, I think I get as many comments regarding my music as I do about the brewing content!!! Music, beer, and BBQ :: what could be better. Thanks again, all the best. -DT
Wow!!! Congratulations, no one else has ever commented on my Becker Brothers opening! I use it as the intro to all of my videos. That puts you on the top of my list of favorite viewers (actually your comment made my day). Growing up I was a trumpet player and we listened to and played all this kind of stuff. Great times and great memories. Thanks again for taking the time to comment, I hope you enjoy the video and my other ones too. All the best. -DT
@@homebrewingtips6029 Hah, I love it!! My dad was a musician (trombone) and I grew up on 'Earth, Wind & Fire', Brecker Brothers, The Crusaders, 'Tower of Power' and so forth... so when the brass started screaming at the beginning of your clip I knew _exactly_ what is up! :D Learned to play piano and drums myself later on and listened to Dave Weckl up and down, Steve Gadd, Vinnie Colaiuta, and of course Chick Corea's Elektric Band etc. Really liked this video - I'm starting to get into yeast harvesting myself and so I'm cruising around looking for input on it. Your video was instructional and nice to watch, thanks for taking the time to put it together. All the best to you and keep making great beer and great videos! - P
@@LordMcMPA Awesome, this is why I do the channel. I like to share my experiences and meet real nice people (who actually have taught me more than I have them!). I wore out vinyl Tower of Power albums over my life time, and still enjoy listening to them today. A different time, yet timeless. Thanks again for the comments. -DT
Great video!! I was looking for information on different fermenters and came across your videos. Very informative!! I hope to be a Spike conical owner soon. Looking at the CF5.
Right on. I have had this CF10 for a year and a half. Very happy with it and with Spike. If you cruise my channel a bit you'll see several videos centered around the conical. Thanks for watching and your comment. All the best! -DT
Yep, this is a very good idea. I have thought about how I could modify things as you suggest to improve things. Good suggestion for sure. Side note: Scorch Garden Hot Sauces, I'll have to check that out. I am on a big time smoked chili, homemade chili powders and hot sauce kick right now. It is great fun and is right up there with brewing, smoking/grilling, and cooking in general! Thanks for watching ... -DT
@@homebrewingtips6029 You and our kitchen do the same thing. We just keep all the oxygen out, vent the CO2 until the alcohol is converted into acidic acid, then the mash gets cooked and bottled. Thank you for making this video. It's because of people like you, we learn the kind of things they don't teach elsewhere.
@@scorchgardenultrahothotsau7919 Thanks for this very kind message. So many people have helped me along the way, so I guess I am paying them all back by trying to help others. Enjoy the holidays!! -DT
Thanks for the video, I noticed you are blowing off, I assume, into an empty keg and then from the keg to a bucket of Star San. I like it. I am also assuming you are doing that to collect CO2, in the keg so when you cold crash, you don't get suck back. Is that correct????? I have been trying to figure out a system to do that besides a mylar balloon filled with CO2!! Great Idea!!!!!!!! Cheers Mate!!!
Thanks for watching and your comment. I use a few different techniques from time to time. But what you describe is one of them. I can let the fermentation go for a few days, then connect the blow off tube to a keg that is full of StarSan and then connect the output of that keg to a bucket (or another keg). There is plenty of gas pressure to purge the keg and then it is completely filled with CO2. I then remove the blow off tube and allow the pressure to build in the fermenter. When I cold crash there is no hose attached and the natural pressure in the fermenter will drop a bit during the crash but stays positive. Your description would work just fine too, and I agree it sure beats the mylar balloon!!!! Footnote: now I am really into pressure fermentation so my process is a bit different but similar in notion. Hopefully this helps. I appreciate you taking time to watch my video. All the best. -DT
Thanks for watching. When I reuse my yeast I try to capture it and use it as soon as possible. I have the ability to test its viability and cell count, here is a link to that video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Di_IB6UFUx8.html I usually take the results of this test and build up a starter. My yeast is all "clean" from the point of view that I do the trub dump and initial yeast dump before I capture the yeast to use. In a carboy environment it is a bit tougher because you have to dump it all into a separate vessel. The one things that I have learned and truly believe is that when in doubt, start with a new batch of yeast. I think we all stretch things out a bit, and as I mention in the linked video what we add to our freshly brewed wort is no nearly as good as we think it is. (I appreciate your comment and might look into doing a video as you described to help folks see the process that I would use)
Hello, thanks for watching. This is an excellent question. I do release the pressure (at least most of it). I'd be worried about a blowout if there was much pressure behind the push. Sometimes I transfer first and then dump/capture the yeast as well. When I do it this way I just let the pressure come down while transferring so it isn't much of a problem.
So....a conical is a good way to remove trub/cold break from your wort? I'm looking to ferment in my carboys, but possibly use a conical just as a sep funnel. What do you think? Thanks.
Thanks for watching and your comment. I have been using conical fermenters for a long time; however, there is nothing wrong at all with carboys in my opinion. Prior to transferring from the kettle to the fermenter, I always do an easy whirlpool (you can do this using your brewing spoon / nothing fancy). I whirlpool for 20 minutes or so and let things settle out (stir for about 2 minutes and then let it just swirl until things settle out). By doing this, a lot of the stuff you don't want in your fermenter will be left behind in the kettle (just be careful when you transfer). The conical makes reclaiming your yeast easier. It also is a lot easier to clean. It does cost a lot more (a whole lot more!!) so you really have to weigh the tradeoffs against the price. Sometimes I actually laugh at myself because all of the equipment that I have. I used to make darn good beer using homemade kettles and carboys. To me, the hobby aspect is half the fun, and as my wife say, I love to tinker with things. I'm not sure if this helped or not, let me know and I'll be glad to offer opinions. All the best. -DT
Thanks for watching and your comment. I typically don't do a trub dump prior to pitching yeast. I have found that in my transfer process I carry over very little trub so I don't worry about it. When I know that I'll be capturing yeast post fermentation, I will always dump the first bit (the reality is that there is so much good yeast to be had to dump off a pint or so is no issue). As a side note, I often now do my yeast harvest when I make my starter, essentially make a 2.5L starter and right when I take it off the stir plate a grab a pint jar and fill it up. This is a lot easier than pulling it off the fermenter (even though I still do that at times too). Thanks again and best of luck. -DT
Hi, thanks for watching. The one I am using in the video came from Spike: spikebrewing.com/collections/conical-accessories/products/2-tc-x-qc Another excellent source for anything related to the tanks and system is glaciertanks.com. I have used them for a number of items over the years. All the best. -DT
thanks for watching, good observation and question. I usually have a little pressure in the tank, often by simply taking the blow off tube off before the fermentation is over and letting the natural CO2 add a little pressure. The fermenter is sealed at this time so there is no concern about suck back. Probably the most important thing is to go super slow when opening the valve. Thanks again for your comment. -DT
Thank you for this! I've heard this setup with the sight glass described, but couldn't visualize it. I'm shopping for a conical myself, and torn between the CF5 and CF10 - does the 10 work well for 5-gallon batches? I'll mostly be doing that size, though it'd be nice to be able to bump it up occasionally. Also, I noticed you've got leg extensions to make room for your sight glass setup - are those the long or short extensions? It looks like a nice height!
Hello, thanks for watching and your comment and questions. This is why I enjoy doing the channel, it gives me a way to share and help others. First, CF10 vs CF5. I used to always do 5G batches, but like you I thought the idea of being able to bump up the size was appealing. Now, I typically have a boil size of 10G and ferment 8 (that way I can transfer into a 5G keg and a 3G keg) which really suits me. I have done 5G batches in the CF10. It works fine, but the cooling coil isn't submerged to far (but still seemed to function). You'll need to move the thermowell port to where the sample port usually resides, no big deal there. One other thing, there will be some waste where the racking arm doesn't reach (by the way, you really need/want the racking arm: spikebrewing.com/collections/conical-accessories/products/racking-arm ) . If you are doing only 5G, the percentage of waste is higher than the larger batch size. The legs are the shorter ones and they are perfect (I do closed/forced transfer so I do not need extra height). It is true that the fermenters are top heavy and the longer legs would exacerbate that. You'll notice I have a home fabricated base plate and heavy wheels mounted on it to help alleviate the top heavy issue. Obviously I love talking about this stuff, feel free to comment back with any other questions. All the best. -DT
In Tacoma. I am going to do some things with the Brown's Point Brew Club (I think that they are actually meeting in Auburn these days. I believe that they do several brew days and competition/analysis. What part of town are you in? -DT
@@lukeayers6881 Graham, that makes me think of MT Head Brewing (did you ever go there). They moved operations to Walla Walla some time ago but we used to enjoy a road trip out there every now and then.
Thanks for watching and your comment. Sooner or later, all of the yeast (and other suspended material) will sink. The first stuff to settle is the heavier material (typically the stuff that comes with the transfer from the kettle). Next will be the inactive (dead) yeast. Lastly the healthy yeast that you really want to recapture for reuse. It is very difficult in the home environment to know how much "good" yeast you get. You might find this video interesting where I test the viability and cell count of yeast that I have from previous batches: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Di_IB6UFUx8.html thanks again for watching. -DT
What’s a good dump schedule for capturing the healthiest yeast for re pitch? Obviously there will be some variability based on the yeast, temp and OG. But something like… trub dump on day 3 during active fermentation, cold crash after fermentation and harvest that yeast for repitch? Or should I include another dump? Or harvest earlier?
Thanks for watching and your comment. I usually try to dump off the first time at 3 or 4 days. My fermentations often take up to 7 days, so once things really slow down I'll try to dump and capture the yeast. General opinions are that you don't want the first of it, so I usually try to slowly let that bleed off. It can be hard not to have the beer punch through the yeast cone, so I try to go very slowly. It is easier to capture after cold crashing, I am not sure if that is best, but if things haven't settled a bit you wind up getting more beer than yeast. Once captured, the yeast degrades pretty fast. You hear a lot of folks say that they store it for months and months and it still works. While this might be true, the results are likely sub-optimum. You can see that in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Di_IB6UFUx8.html My philosophy now is: When in doubt, throw it out. Better to spend $10 and know you're using strong yeast. Thanks again. -DT
@@homebrewingtips6029 Yeah thanks, I think I'll try dumping as fermentation slows down, then harvesting yeast after cold crash, seems to me that would be the healthiest yeast. Yeah I my rule of thumb is re-use the yeast within 4 week, otherwise start fresh
Hi , thanks for watching. In the fermenters I had before this one they had 1/2" ball valves for both the racking port and dump port. It works ok, but it is prone to clogging. If you can, dump a little on day three or so, and then a few days later. This will help prevent the clogging. If worse comes to worse, when mine got totally clogged, I took a sanitized chop stick and would stick it all the way in and swirl it around to break up the clog. It worked, but not ideal. If you get most of the yeast out before cold crashing that will help too. The same rules apply, go slow and you'll get the hang of it. All the best. -DT
What do you think about boiling old yeast to make yeast nutrient? I’ve come across a few videos of people trying it, but don’t have a microscope to see if it’s true or not.
I have heard of that same thing. I guess my opinion is that I can buy the WyEast nutrient for very little money ( I think it is only a couple bucks) and I know exactly what I am using. I try to be very diligent these days when working with my yeast. Here are a couple of videos showing that which you might enjoy: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZPVfIz6_74g.html studio.ru-vid.comDi_IB6UFUx8/edit studio.ru-vid.comH7B34yerhuI/edit thanks for watching and commenting!
Hi, thanks for watching. You are pretty observant. The rubber caps on the coil and the hoses for that matter are caps that came with various hardware fixtures that I have bought over time. I keep all of that stuff in a drawer and sometimes I can actually use it! If you go to a hardware store you can likely find rubber caps that would fit. Through dumb luck these just happened to fit perfectly. Sorry I can't be more help than that. Best of luck to you, and thanks again for watching.. -DT
@@homebrewingtips6029 Thanks, I just use Painter's Tape but the caps are much nicer. I'll go ahead and look for some caps at the hardware store. Cheers.
