Question Is this really as easy as you're making it look, or do you just have too much practice? I work as a diesel mechanic, so I don't think I'll have any trouble figuring out the steps to do it, I'm just wondering how much of a pain in the ass it would be. This video is inspiring. I'd like to build the quintessential R700 woods rifle. Not sure what cartridge, but I would like it to be blueprinted correctly and stick the recoil lug on a surface grinder to be sure it's right. Then have a professional spin me up a barrel and install express sights on it and then I'd put the whole thing into a really nice looking wood stock with maybe a BDL floor plate I just paid a guy a whole pile of money to build me a Rem700 running The LORD's Cartridge. 24inch Krieger 10twist 4groove idk the recoil lug trued up R700 with 8-40 screws and all dropped into a McMillan U-1 tactical stock with ARCA and Hawkins M5. Factory trigger set to 3lb.
I’ve been using the Manson trueing kit. A few minor differences but very similar. I get amazing results after trueing my Rem actions. Do you do anything with the bolt body after opening up the raceway dimension? Great video thanks for sharing!!
I don’t do anything since it’s only couple thousandths. They do make a raceway reamer that’s .710”. In that case I’d be replacing the bolt with a larger one.
I true the face in a lathe personally. I also use a reamer to true up the threads before facing the lugs. I rechambered a mauser and was suprised how subtlety different blueprinting was compared to all the rem700s I've built.
What about the bolt action, that to needs to be trued up and mad perfectly squared up against the receivers end, also the lugs of the bolt also need to be squared up ? 🦘🦘✌✌
Definitely would like to do this, but spending more than the rifle costs to improve it is not possible for me 😂 can't justify $800-$1000 for what might be an improvement, but I'm no sharpshooter so I probably wouldn't benefit 😂
Does the action reamer increase the inside diameter over standard factory? In other words, can a factory barrel be reinstalled into the action once it has been blueprinted?
How do you get good bolt lock up after you have removed the material? I guess I should ask how much material did you remove from the lugs? We could see the amount coming off the face, but did you just take it to where the blueing was all removed, therefor knowing you are flat and concentric to the bore? Stills seems like that could be enough material to make the lock up sloppy. That has always intrigued me. Great video by the way. Certainly nice to see this being done with hand tools vs $25k lathes.
You pretty much cut off the face of the action until the cutter reaches the lugs. Once the reamer is cutting on both surfaces (the face and the lugs) it becomes pretty difficult to take material by hand. You can feel when you've reached the lugs. It doesn't take much material at all off the lugs, just cleans them up more or less. I've never had one that the lugs were too far out of square. Lock up will never be sloppy provided your barrel is properly headspaced.
I have a model 700 7mm Rem Mag that’s was my first deer rifle. Always wondered about truing the action. Have you ever put on a new barrel too? Great video thanks
Sadly a lot of the time cracking off a barrel can mar or damage the finish. Less often but occasionally you may have to relief cut to relive pressure on the threads. I just rechambered an 8mm FN Spanish Mauser into 30-06. The client was thinking of 338-06 but I asked him if he really wanted to reload every round and if his game needed the extra grain from the 338 round, also I said I'd give him a generous discount if he's not happy with 30-06. I digress the 8mm barrel is toast the relief cut destroys the integrity of the barrel. The barrel would not come off heat and penetrating oil did not help so just talk to your gunsmith and have him explain the process and the risks, also make sure he has a reamer in your preferred size.
