I'm a retired auto mech. I have many presses and pullers in my tool boxes that are operated by a screw thread principle. But when I built my shed I made a jig on a sheet of plywood. Set my pieces in the jig, layed some plywood plates on the joint with glue, and nailed er down. It has withstood several feet of Denver snow for about 15 years and still solid as a rock.
The mending plates done with plywood for sure work and work well. I've done the same thing. These metal mending plates offer a possible advantage of being ready to install as soon as the plates are installed as opposed to waiting for the glue to set/cure. Sure, the mechanical fasteners are there to hold the plywood patches but I chose to not stress the members until the glue had set up. But, for future readers: the plywood patches/plates and glue and fasteners is a solid way to secure truss members.
A lot of people don't realize how much pressure you can get with a screw press. That said, this isn't the right choice for everybody, but I was already planning to incorporate this kind of press in my plan to build trusses for a 32-foot wide shop building. Thanks posting this video.
After looking, looking, and looking. I finally saw your video. Very Intelligent Idea ! I think you just solved my problem. You can’t find a portal press anywhere. Thanks again, Sir. Now I just have to get plates and get started
I pressed 8" x 8" truss plates with 2 twenty ton hydraulic jacks. First attempt did not work but my second version worked well. It was surprising how much force was required to fully set the plates, 40 tons!
This is a solid idea for getting it done on your own schedule as you stated. Well done. But, for speed: OTC is/was a company making automotive tools. I had a jumbo C clamp for pressing in/out tie rod ends or something like that (I bought that tool 30 years ago). Very beefy unit. A little southern engineering and a port-a-power (portable, hand-pumped hydraulic cylinder) could be fitted to the clamp. It would take some monkeying around but it would be fairly easy to move from place to place on the truss jig and would likely pump up faster than the four nuts you're using here. You can get the port-a-power generic Chinese stuff from Horrible Freight.
Great idea, but it made me think of something else that would be much faster. Just make plates for a log splitter. Most of them will stand up vertical, so you just have to make supports that would be level with the bottom plate. Most splitter wedges are just held on by a bolt, so you could take that off and bolt on the top plate.
I give you credit where credit is due. Perfect? Perhaps not, yet I don’t see 9 others bringing their gang-nail-plate device to the showing. As they say; “Necessity is the mother of all invention!” Congratulations for the guy who should had the idea and got the plate welded and gave it that “American, I can do this!” Try. Automotive ASE Master ( +38 years ) Retired
1/2 inch impact driver enough power? I didn't get a good glimpse of the one you were using. I am going to use your approach on my own shed with a very basic king post truss with an 8' span and 5/12 pitch, but will also use OSB gussets and 6" truss screws at the apex and 8" ones where the rafters meet the bottom chord, for a belt-and-suspenders approach.
There are truss plates and mending plates. Mending plates are not for trusses or other structural applications, they are used to bond two straight pieces of wood together end to end or repair things like pallets.
This is a great idea if your out framing in the middle of nowhere but, I'd be willing to wait one or two days for a truss company and have my guys go do something productive instead of waiting on each truss. That small truss does not need a metal plate. Have you ever heard of 3/4" plywood gusset. Use a small amount of glue and add 8 staples per side would be sufficient.
Ken Watters. What is it that you do for a living?? I'm a truss designer and I couldn't agree more on your comment. There are people who take the liberty and think that they can build components without any engineering. I know a case where a lumber yard built trusses in their back yard the same way and guess what, they are no longer doing it after a couple builds collapsed. Even if a truss gets damaged in the field YOU NEED AN ENGINEERED TRUSS FIX, if you chose not to, it just adds more stress and deflection to the trusses next to it.
It's not that easy. Having worked in a truss plant I can tell you that sometimes customers place orders and they don't get their trusses for months because there are dozens of orders before theirs.
In many states, if you're a licensed general contractor, with a permit, repairing or modifying an engineered building component, like a truss, requires an engineer's letter. Plywood gusset plates are often used for truss repairs.
You can also use a staple gun to staple the peak of the truss in place and then hammer the plate on. The press makes the pressed plate look pretty but you can hammer it on too. That's cool you are taking things in your own hands.
I've always wanted to build my own trusses. The problem and reality is any job that's going to be inspected needs to be built by a truss manufacturer with certification. Either that or have a Company certify the ones you built which no one would go out of their way to come out and certify. It sucks but it's just the reality of it. I think it would be awesome to build your own trusses for a smaller non permit job though!
Don’t do this but you could ask for a quote for the trusses that you want. After you get a quote ask them for the engineering, tell them the city asked you for it to give you the permit. Once you have the engineering you can make your trusses based on it. The last thing that you will need are the truss labels. Every truss should have a label. You can go to a new construction development, look for a house where they just delivered trusses and take a look at the labels to see how they make them. Then just copy them with yours truss information of course. There, you have trusses with engineering and labels. But don’t do it.
galvanised plates with pre-drilled holes and fixed with flat-head nails (or my preference is tek-screws) is an easier option. hydraulic or other made-for-purpose presses do such a good job.
old video... noticed you are using plates that actually say "Not for Truss" on them. Was there a reason for going with that plate vs a structural plate?
Why was a nail plate truss needed, for such a simple truss. Their are many ways to permanently attach those cords together, much faster, much cheaper and much better.
Drew st. john you're absolutely right there are a lot of different ways this can be done, this is just one way. We do a lot of the same trusses with to same span and pitch. Something I learned a long time ago when you have employees, is to take the thinking out of it! This jig and pressing plates made the process simple and requires very little experience for a new employee to duplicate. Thanks for your comments.
Way too long. I’ll use nailed and glued plywood instead before doing that. This is only good to fix damaged truss. Not for a whole production scale. And for fixing truss, I’ll use those metal plate with nails instead. I understand the concept but this is a pain to use.
Simpson clearly states their plates are not rated for structural use and only for DIY projects. Lowe's also has similar disclaimer on their web site. Lawyers in the mix as usual...
your system takes too long, mate. it is far better to use a 1/8" mild steel plate with holes for four 3/8" bolts, and you are done, stronger and faster.
Jameson Cross conventional framing is a great way to go and I have done a lot of conventional framing in my life and I have taught a lot of young guys what all those cute little numbers on the side of a framing square actually mean, kind of a dying art. What I am attempting to do here is to create something that a low skilled employees could do for the sheds we build that doesn't require a lot of thinking and can be duplicated quickly. Thanks for your comment.
Ken Watters hey I really appreciate that, I certainly understand the engineering of any truss package I use to own a truss plant. In this particular video I mentioned it will build sheds and portable buildings. Our portable buildings have a maximum span of 12' and not a lot of exposure to failure with a 6' run. Thanks for your comment.
You're criticizing this guy personally and not touching on any actual reason he's doing anything wrong. What about his process is technically poor, assuming his materials fit an established specification? I could see hammering being a poor process for various reasons. He's pressing like factories press except the mechanism is different. It's still even and it's not too rapid. If you're concerned about others doing it, his system requires so much attention and craftsmanship that it's beyond even many skilled craftsmen and fabricators.
@@XRPVenture I would completely agree keep it under 12' span hard to make them fail. In my career I specialize in truss engineering I have seen people hand make there own trusses so many times improperly. Many times it cost them way more than to just have them engineered and delivered.
@@Kimoto504 Sorry shouldn't have been critical. Nothing wrong with using a screw press, the mechanical is massive. My issue is people need to understand that truss plates bought at a big box store are not technically even for structural use. But even if you do have access to truss plates they require engineering and design. Nothing wrong with properly designed plywood gussets either. Or I built my own Timber trusses with steel gusset plates and SDS screws. Just get some professional advise on the design it will likely save you in the long run. I have seen fixing the mistakes cost homeowners so much more than the trusses ever cost to begin with.
