Juin-Tech also makes the GT which are a 4 piston version of the F1. Got them for my gravel bike and they are really good. Granted, they are more expensive, but they still maintain the ease of cable actuated (I switch between flat bars and drop bars on my gravel rig, which would be a pain and a half with full hydraulics). I took them bikepacking on a fully loaded rig and had no issues stopping, even on steep descents.
Compare bettewen F1 and GT whice you think is better for stoping power? Coz i was plan for buy this brand but still looking for info about whice is more good, Luke trace velo say GT have 4 piston does is really more better compare 2? Does the oil inside must change it or must bleeding the bubble too? Thx
Mate, there is another company called Onirii. I am running a Bikestore in Berlin, we already used and tested Onirii brakes, they have the same system as the Juin Tech ones. The brakes we tested were BR-02 and found out that with semi metallic brake pads the braking was significantly higher than with the sent Resin Pads. They performe well. Furthermore they introduced a new one BR-05 which they claim to be even better. I would be very interested to see the performance difference between your Juin Techs and the Onirii ones. Would be nice if you can test that and let me know! Cheers, Chain Right
I've been using the BR-05 for months now on my Canyon Ultimate along with the same groupset as Francis, and I can say that braking is really close to full hydraulic if set up correctly. The brake cable lines up better and straighter especially on the rear. Can lock up your wheels with just one finger. The only con is the paint job is ugly. Nevertheless, Highly recommended.
I have these ones on my roadbike. They were good out of the box with Jagwire compressionless housing, but power was fading in long passes descents. Now with Jagwire semi-metallic pads and Jagwire LR2 rotors, they are way better, more power and no fading. Brake levers still feel harder than hydraulics, but power and modulation are almost the same!
Hey there! well, compressionless housing make soooo much difference in modulation and braking power, I've put the dura ace 9000 cables with the join f1 and their very close to hydro brakes (I've only had an experience with tiara/105 hydros though)
I have a set of this and they are AMAZING (for cable actuated brakes) after replacing the stock pads with some discobrake pads. I replaced a set of TRP spyres with this, and they are much much much better. Stock pads are not so nice, with better pads it gets "closer" to hydraulics, never on same league, but much closer and more than enough braking. Nice to see you also liked them !
@@scrumartist so far so good. But I still haven't gone through a set of pads. (Almost there now). I also have the GT-F on another bike and the performance is real good. Hope they last.
@@PauloSerra that is good to hear, will definitely go that route once my mech brakes need replacing, but so far, a well bedded disk + replaced stock pads with shimano ones give me all the stopping power I need so far
I ride these in blue on my gravel bike and can confirm that once bedded in they are even better. And compressionless housing made a difference too. I really like them!
you can also pair them with older high end cable groupset… I am keeping my 2009 Sram red going strong with these. I can lock both my gravel wheels out with these and modulation is pretty impressive, way better than a set of hydraulic brakes that need any level of bleeding and so far nit needed bleeding!
I use the TRP hydraulic cable calliper on the rear of my bike packing bike. One tip install an inline cable barrel adjuster to increase the cable tension and improve the performance.
I have over two years and 9300 miles on my Yokozuna Ultimo brakes, and I think they're fantastic. They're the 4-piston model, but I think they're the same as one version of Juin Tech.
You should try the Hope RX4 brakes, a billet four pot caliper for road, be good to check out the premium end of aftermarket brakes to get a fuller picture. Great content though as usual 👍
Trp Hyd brakes cook on long alpine decents where you are slowing down more than just braking. I think the problem is the reservoir holds the heat too much. Normal mech are not affected as much
Very hard to imagine bicycle brake (fluid?) cooking with all exposed brake parts, unlike in e.g. cars where the reservoir is in engine bay. I believe the reservoir is in the handles, wouldn’t you burn your hands if it was about reservoir (oil boils at over 200C), even water would be 100C. What are they using as a brake fluid? Edit: watched the video and learned the reservoir is in the caliber, my bad, but it’s still hard to believe the oil with >260C boiling point would cook (unless it’s not oil)
@@siffoine I think it could be the case of being closed small space with only small amount of fluid in the system, since reservoir and everything is in the brake caliper itself and brakes can get very hot if you do realllllllly long descents. 5ml of oil gets hot faster and easier than 500ml, to exaggerate the point.
@@makkomise mineral oil’s boiling point is above ignition temperature of paper (and well above boiling point of water). One would immediately burn themselves touching the caliber. I doubt that is the case, no matter how small amount of liquid.. but I could imagine a situation where the fluid was not actually oil, but e.g. mostly water which boils at low temperatures at altitude. That would not be unimaginable, water tends to find its way everywhere unintentionally and even intentionally if it helps to cut costs. That or it’s just brake fade, which has other causes than “cooking”.
@@siffoine I know from experience that you will burn yourself to disc caliber after descent if you go touching that :D How hot they can actually get, that i don't know but i'd imagine there's some experiments on that. Of course, water seeping everywhere wouldn't be very surprising either.
I've heard some are complaining about juintech's stock pads not being good. I never had problem with it tbh, just properly bed them and it will have the braking power you. I'm pretty much happy with my juintech.
Used them for a couple of years on a drop bar 29er and had zero issues and always plenty of power. Have heard of some issues with the pistons returning slowly but never experienced it myself...
I'd love to see proper tests on a long alpine descend , after two month of regular usage. And then, move to compressionless cables. I'm pondering on a 1x road bike with sensa gravel shfters, juintech brakes, a 40 teeth oval, narrow-wide chainring in front and the rotor 11-39 12 speed cassette.
Thanks for efficiently cutting right to the meaty info: cost, install, performance without filler. I run these on my SS gravel and agree with your assessment. A couple of statements that you made are DEAD ON. The first is that once you get used to high end components, you turn into a snob. I nearly choked on my overpriced coffee on that one. Reality is a harsh mistress. Second, the statement that you'd race on these was the true thumbs up. That's a great litmus test for a reviewer regardless of whether the audience races. Yeah, this milled out crank or ultralight wheelset is good, but would you race on them? I wonder if Luke from Trace Velo or the guys from the Escape Collective would race on some of the stuff that they enthusiastically endorse. No shade to those gentlemen because they are awesome for our sport/lifestyle, but your video sparked that line of thought. Thanks again!
I've always been a fan of cheap alternatives, solutions, diy, etc... Because i'm not rich and i'm not sponsored, so i can't afford all that fancy 2000$ gear and 20000$ bike ;) I can save up for a 1000$ bike over a few years but that's about it. Nice vid! Keep it up!
same issue with the cable routing on a Felt road frame. Had to cut it short and bend it to make sure it wouldn't wear out paint on the frame. Brakes work well otherwise though!
I found that they very much may need to be bled. Maybe I just got a bad pair, but I had to bleed them immediately after installing because the pistons wouldn't fully recess. They were much, much better after bleeding and they stopped rubbing completely. I bought two pairs and only one had this issue. My experience with the performance of these brakes is that they work amazingly well on my gf's bike that doesn't have full internal routing and doesn't have a super tight bend at the caliper end. On my bike (with full internal routing and the weird bend at the end) the performance just wasn't there. I'll definitely use them again some day, just not on a frame with full internal routing.
I bought a pair of these brakes and have this issue, The Rear brake seems to be fine, But the front one needs a bleed, do you remember by any chance what was the color of the oíl inside them? (I know its mineral oíl, But some people say they have Green oíl, And I have the regular red shimano oíl at home, so i would have to make a full bleed to get rid of the stock one and dont mix them)
@@MrBubba3494 oh man that bike is long gone and I’m not 100% sure what it was. I think it was the green stuff? I think I used green Finish Line oil. Either way, you should be able to mix mineral oils without issue. They’re basically the same.
Would be interested to hear your thoughts on how full mechanical disc brake calipers compare to hybrid ones. For example, mech disc calipers from one of the 3 mainstream groupset brands vs Ali express ones vs boutique ones like Paul klampers
Paul Klamper perform brilliantly but so does an Avid BB5, just better quality control as cable actuated brakes have a habit of the pads not sitting 100% straight unlike hydraulic
@@timbarlow5139 the Spyre were terrible brakes, the fact it use two spring on both side make it noticeably harder to pull than a single actuated brakes, it’s just more convenient to have both side actuates, that’s it.
I just expect cable actuated and cable/hydraulic integrated disc brakes to keep improving. There's plenty of opportunity for innovative small brands in this space. If I were doing a build today or in the future, I would definitely go down this product path. I do hear over and over again that compression-less housing is a must have for cabled disc brakes of any flavor, but don't have any direct experience. Yet.
@@Cade_Media I can imagine. The thought of the internal routing on my older road bike makes me cringe, so off the LBS for that job. The all rounder bike is externally routed - a solid reason for the selection of that model - happy days! Of course I'm not racing and speed is not that much of a factor any longer. 😉 #aerogains #pffffffffft
Excellent video. I'm getting on my disc bike now, and thinking about the way forward. My question is just: Which mechanical disc brake would be similar to my current v brakes? Then, which system is superior to the best possible v brake? And, the last doubt, because never and never a mixed mechanical system will be superior to the hydraulic?
Brake tech & test Thursdays! Good to watch and honest review of both sets of lesser known manufacturers. Always better value options out there on the Internet......find the right one for you and your bike & you're onto a winner 👍🚵♀️
HI there. Great video. In my case if I want to switch from rim brakes to a disc. I only need to buy these Juin-Tech 4piston (GT) and a disc brake specific road frame. Cuz everything else I have on the bike I'm using now will be swapped to the new frame.
I have a Rim Brake TCR sl and switched the fork to a disc TCR fork and used this Juin tech brake. Best of both worlds! P.S The best part about the F1 brakes is how easy they are to bleed and service, and how cheap the replacement pads are.
Doh, I just ordered a pair of the TRP hyd brakes as I had the mechanical ones and they weren't that bad but didn't know about the Juin ones. The Nutts must of made descending Stwlan Dam a bit sketchy.
I am running these since a couple years. I strongly advise using other discs and pads, and using compressionless housing, which will require jagwire POP ferrules to reduce diameter going into the callipers. Compressionless works better, stock discs somehow underperform, stock pads won’t last long anyway. I suggest running semi metallic too. The one bothering thing with these brakes is that they don’t have a full pads thickness worth of travel so you will throw away pads that still have half their life left in…
Juin Tech or TRP HY/RD cable actuated hydro brakes are really good - not quite as good as full hydro - but way way way better than mechanical disc brakes. I used TRP for a long time before going full hydro >___> Your comment at 1:02 feels like a personal attack tho - lol
5:37 you may be better with Aligator/Nokon cabling.. These are modular outers so are far better suited to tight radiuses. But yes, you are correct, pish poor cable routing by a big bike brand.
Alexipress compressionless cableset? The very best in my experience is the Yokozuna Reaction which is 100% compression-less unlike the kevlar stuff from Jagwire, I end up running Avid BB5 road and perform as good if not better than my sram and shimano hydraulic. I wonder if there’s an alexipress version of that Yokozuna to match the Juintech? Maybe a video of juintech and how much can you go to make it feel as good as proper hydraulic system? (Sintered pads, magura rotor, proper cableset etc.)
I've fitted these to a few customers bikes with mechanical disc brake, they're the best of a bad bunch. Low compression housing and changing the pad compound makes a difference definitely good economical upgrade .
Would like to see cheap cassette alternatives. I’ve got an SROAD cassette to try in place of an SRAM cassette. 250g lighter but same price. Need to see if shifting is compromised and what longevity is like…
Looking forward to the video on the zraces! Also - are you not using compressionless brake housings? The close up shot looks like wound ones. Edit - you call it out at the end 😁
Have you considered a possible difference in actual cables? One might stretch more than the other giving you a less direct response in the break action. Just wondering...
I have had hydraulic brakes, for me I much prefer the feel of mechanical brakes. Much less fussing about, and very reliable. I use avid brakes, get more stopping power than I can use. Whenever I get a new bike, first thing I do is rip off the hydraulic brakes.
I'd be interested to see how they compare with your experience of using conventional dual pivot brakes. I could imagine someone with a mechanical groupset who might want to upgrade the brakes might be interested.
Significantly stronger than pure mechanical calipers I've tried in the past - but yet to take them on any long descents so can't comment on heat build up. I suppose a lot of it will depend on where you live/plan to ride too
I get what you mean , from rim brake to hydraulic it was much better braking and i get used to it. Then i bought used road bike with mechanical disc brake and after 1st ride i was very worried about my safety .
Most mechanical disc is junk, I've tried lots of them and they just don't compare to hydraulic. I find my dura ace old rim brakes brake far better than non hydraulic disc. The cables stretch rendering the cable calipers be not delivering enough leverage. Cable disc requires the cable and housing to be at peak tension.
My good sir, snob? Not at all. It's no crime to have experienced the good stuff and to prefer it. After trying a $500 bottle of Caymus Select, it's hard to drink cheap wine... but I'm not snobby about it 😀👍
Second this, Growtac Equal been getting pretty good reviews so far and would love to see how it performs with the kind of riding you’re doing. Although it’s pricing is on par to a Paul Klampers
Can you elaborate some more how these compare to high end dura-ace or sram hydro calipers? Is the level pull harder on these? You said you can lock them out as well, so it seems like the top end braking power is comparable.
Had these sold them on. Not much better than the cheaper zoom brand. If you want a better alternative use the TRP hyrd up front and the spyre or Shimano mechanical up the bank. Use the compressionless housing too
I need a opinion about juin tech brand for my road bike, which is have better stopping power compare F1 and GT? Coz i was plan for change my brake kit into this brand, thx guys
I replaced a pair of TRP HY/RD brakes with Juin Tech R1's about a month ago and I must say that the Juin Techs are far and away better than the TRPs. And both of those cable-actuated hydraulic brake sets are better than the Avid BB7s that I used previously. The Juin Techs have great modulation and they are more than strong enough for my gravel bike. Juin Tech makes a 4 cylinder version, the GT, that are intended for mountain biking.
Riding behind you on the dam descent, I can contest that those brakes were "interesting" all hydro brakes now are great. cable actuated non hydro brakes are shocking and only really suited to beach cruisers imo. These brakes you got are the happy medium or easy to service for a tourer bike and decent power
Hi Francis. Any suggestions for a good performing rim brake ? Trying to make an old road bike frame into a go anywhere gravel bike using regular shifter/brake levers.
I've upgraded a few old frames and the basic Tektro 359 / 369 (depending on drop you need) are pretty good, better than the Nutt cable operated 2 piston discs anyway.
Lots of difference to the feel. Compressionless housing feels much more positive, especially for bikes with full length cable housing. That feeling of the rear brake being significantly more squishy feeling is gone. However, routing can be problematic on internally routed frames with tight bends as the housing is so stiff compared to standard brake housing.
Really good question. Before experiencing these hybrid style systems (hydraulic reservoir in the caliper) then I would have said rim. But now these make it a much harder choice.
maybe a scientific experiment video showing the comparable braking distances between the systems as its hard to get a feel (no pun intended) if youve never experienced hyrdaulic discs over mechanical discs over rim, low or high end parts. I have TPR spyres, that look alot like those Nutt brakes, and the brake feel was vastly improved just moving away from the stock brake pads to organic or sintered pads instead.
I have thought about how to conduct a test like that but came to the conclusion that it wouldn't show much as even the poorer performing Nutt brakes lock up with enough force. With rim involved there's almost too many variables too! A new rim & soft pads is also really easy to lock up 🤷
@@Cade_Media is that true? '' The one bothering thing with these brakes is that they don’t have a full pads thickness worth of travel so you will throw away pads that still have half their life left in…''? comment made by Clive
I am considering an OG-Evkin handlebar and stem. They appear to be a legit company but I cannot find any in depth reviews of the company or their products.
with the price inflation today, Sensah + juintech combo is the better to price performance in my opinion. Of course 105 full hydro is way better than sensah+juin setup, but I'm using a 105 full hydro shifter with ultegra caliper with SRX pro RD on my gravel bike right now, best of both worlds
