TS185 2 Stroke Engine REBUILD #1 | Disassembly 

Quick fix: clean up piston with some fine fine grit paper (400), new rings, a hone, do the seals that are accessible. Any bottom end airleaks will make the bike run lean. DO Not fall for the myth that bigger piston Is better! Overbores are cheap and having the next size on hand couldn't hurt but you only have so much cylinder lining, the bigger hole you make for your pistons, the less life left in it. It will also effect porting and the engines cooling. Read Klemmvintage.coms articles on two stroke engines, it mentions how 70s fuel is much higher, so pre-detonation occurs, so you need to run the Highest Octane you can, or get some work done to the combustion chamber. Or both. It will help prevent overheating and future scoring. All out: look into modern manufacturing of the cdi, the 40yr old electronics won't put out as bright a spark, or be as true. I'd also rebuild the crank. I Thought my kawasaki F7 one was ok, but when I got it rebuilt it had no play - no wiggle = no excessive rubbing on the cylinder. Replacing the bearings and having it trued/rebuilt is all you need. A new rod is optional. If there's a shop that deals with old two strokes nearby they can port match too, making sure the port windows are to spec and 100 % which most mass produced engines aren't. They could also do some porting work to make the bike run cleaner. Also rebuild,and reseal that oil pump. It's your life line. If it ib sealed and draws air, or isn't pumping as it should it can destroy your engine. Some people plate it off and just premix their bikes which is okay in a dirtbike application but alot of hassle, just keep the pump maintenance up. If you want to talk more about this stuff here is my email, g.casazzone@gmail.com, I started tinkering with old two strokes after highschool so I've gone through all this stuff, and learned it all the hard way.

Also, if you want to focus on offroad and start with a fresh drive train, I'd put a smaller front sprocket, new chain and larger rear sprocket, it will make the gearing more torque > top end.

Some people like to lighten their flywheels too, make them rev lil easier but at cost of harder to start. I apologize in advance for all the spam, I just eat up all this stuff haha

@@jordanprato151 it's not spam at all, it's all really good advice! Thank you

When using that type of flywheel puller you need washers under the head of your bolts that won’t bend. Be careful not to thread bolts into flywheel to far you’ll hit your stator and won’t have spark when done. Don’t ask me how I know this!!! Once you have those washers get it as tight as you can and then hit the end of the puller where your 3/4” socket was hit it hard it will come off guaranteed. But you must put heavy duty washers under bolt heads first. Once again don’t forget to replace both crankshaft seals otherwise it will burn gearbox oil.

Great tip! I'll have to fact check that but it makes sense for sure. Thanks for sharing!

It took me two bike builds to figure it out lol but I'm never going back!

Thanks!

Exactly SIS is not the same as phillip's I know he's learning but dang it if he doesn't do some crazy shit lol.

Shaheer Alam micrometer is the one that looks like a vice correct?

Yes you are right, I mixed those up. Thanks!

Cole Skins yeah but its smaller

GoldGuy and by the way im from Pakistan 🇵🇰 i saw that knife and its not the best we have honestly 😂

Actually it's a dial caliper, it doesn't have an vernier scale on it.

That is what I was using

Not that style.. it doesn't pull from the right angle. You need something like this. www.amazon.com/Max-Motosports-Motorcycle-Flywheel-Kawasaki/dp/B00XBIF8BE

That style puller threads into the flywheel. It's what all dealers use to properly pull them. Trust me, I've learned the hard way and you don't want to buy another flywheel because you bent the first one using the wrong tools.. Cheers!

@@jpardee208 thanks for the link!

GoldGuy check to make sure you get the correct one but most are universal. Good luck! 👍🏼

You can get cranks rebuilt, and I believe you can still get rods as well.

or get a puller, very cheap.

2:45

It's in a bike that I sold now.

I have no idea.

Ummm yes there is crankcase oil as well, I know my engine...

GoldGuy some people vall the crank case the part were the clutch and gearbox is. That is not right. The crank case is the sealed of area where the crankshaft sits. And in the bottom half of the crankshaft is no engine oil that you Drain from the bottom of the engine. The crank get lubricated by the oil in the fuel. Like 99% of Twostroke engines do. Especiely the ts engines with the reed valve under the cylinder. So the fuel goes in to the crankcase and then up into the cylinder. So if there would have been engine oil there it would have mixed with the fuel and your bike wouldnt run. I have worked on these types of engines for a long time so i know them inside out

The Pyro Dude what’s the place if you don’t mind me asking

Hahahahahaha

Chévere!

I could make that or more without engineering school. And besides, that isn't what I want to do with my life

I disagree. This bike taught me so much and I am way better off now for it. Yeah I broke some stuff but the lessons are worth way more than the cost of a new engine case. I have rebuilt many other vintage and modern engines since this video and each one has been better than the last.

Hobby Bros no me

Delta Rey I clicked on the video in 8 seconds which by default makes me the most hardcore gold guy fan.

Hobby Bros sorry mate I was 7 second early to the vid.

Trent Mulford ohhhhhhh okay

You're all winners because you watched the video! 😂😂

But that's no fun..