I've gone through two whole rolls of Stans tape trying to re-tape my front wheel and had a persistent leak despite that. These guys make it look easy! Kudos!
I used to install the tire with a tube and leave it over night before taking it back off and adding sealant to make sure the tape adhered well. Glad to see I don't need to do that. Thanks 🤙
People can get a cheeseburger anywhere, okay? They come to Chotchkie's for the atmosphere and the attitude. Okay? That's what the flair's about. It's about fun.
Nice vide. Thanks. Stans tape works great when installed properly with care on properly cleaned rims. I've also questioned the extra width but most rims are contoured and that eats up some of the extra width. I prefer to work a little more slowly and press it down more as I go. Gorrilla works but breaks down over time and is horrific to remove/replace so just get Stans!
They make it look so easy with something to have the rim supported and freely spinning. Almost all of us at home don't have this...much more difficult without it.
@@reggin_spelt_backwards I did try some at one point. It's kind of trash compared to gorilla tape, but of course, it doesn't require the cleaning that gorilla tape does when removed.
I made the mistake of skipping the step with the file. I just poked a hole and went with it. The front wheel sealed fine, but the rear wheel leaked at the valve stem, rather rapidly. I broke the bead and removed the valve stem and applied some sealant to it but it still wouldn’t seal. I’ll give the file a shot and see what it does.
Hey! Check to make sure that the yellow tape didn't split beyond the edge of the valve hole when you poked your hole. If it did, you may need to retape the wheel. If you need anymore help, reach out to us at tech@notubes.com!
Another trick the bike store mechanic told me to do is to seat the rim tape with an inner tube for about twenty minutes. Then remove the inner tube and add your sealant, I’m sure that helped as well.
I have issues getting the stans tape to stick to itself. The adhesive is extremely underwhelming to the point of not being usable. Unless I use super glue the overlapping tape section air always gets underneath that seam and then out the spoke holes/valve. If there is any recommendation to you guys it would be to please improve your adhesive.
Thanks for that feedback, we'll be sure to pass that feedback on. Giving the tape some tension generally helps it stick. If you need any other help, please feel free to email us at tech@notubes.com
The tape in this video is so smooth when it’s on the rim! Whenever I put my Stans tape on my Arch MK3s, I get dimples over the spoke holes. How do I prevent this?
Hey Scott. The tighter you're able to pull the tape while you're applying it, the less likely you are to get any bubbles, or wrinkles. A truing stand to hold the wheel steady will certainly help with this, but you can also leave the wheel mounted in your frame or fork to held hold it while taping.
My rim has a deeper depression in the center and stans tape just folds and wrinkles no matter how hard I pull tight. Should I go with a narrower tape? It only has to cover the spoke holes I would think.
It's possible (but not guaranteed) that they came with tubeless tape pre-installed. Your best resource here is the dealer you purchased them from or your local bike shop.
Why only tighten finger tight. My valve stem started to leak and its been sealed for about 4 months. I tried tightening it with pliers but it only lasted one more ride.
Hey Juggernaut MC5, we recommend only tightening our valve nuts finger tight because with pliers you can pull the rubber stopped into the rim cavity. When we see air loss at the valve it's normally because of an issue with the rim tape. It's normally a good idea to remove your tire and look for anywhere that your rim tape has been compromised. Please email tech@notubes.com with any additional questions. Thanks!
Also note that the mechanic presses down on the stem while tightening the nut with his fingers which achieves a bit of compression of the rubber stopper and makes it easier to tighten the nut with only fingers.
Hi Matteo! Yes, you'll want to get good adhesion across the entire rim including down into the drop channel in order to prevent any possibility of air leaks.
Hi Fred! Our universal valves do not use a rubber O-ring. The airtight seal is created by the cone-shaped rubber stopper at the base of the valve. There is no need to use an O-ring with our valves.
Hey Felipe! Reducing the number of layers of tape that the valve stem passes helps to reduce the chance of any air leaks. A small but subtle difference!
I noticed this video on the Flow S1 Wheelset description page. Is tape already added to these wheels? I am buying a bike from a company using these wheels and they want to charge $65 to tape and put a tubeless valve stem in them. I wonder if I should skip it IF the wheel is already taped?
Hi! All of our wheels, including the S1 series, should come with yellow tubeless tape already installed. As long as you see that tape on your rims, you'll just need to add a pair of tubeless valves, tubeless tires, and some sealant!
@@notubes what if your rims are 30mm? I only see 30 and 33mm options. Also is the tape not touching the bottom of the divot? It looks like it’s sitting above it and only attached to the sides. Given that your tape is not flexible and the tape was pulled as tight as possible in the demonstration, theres really no way it’s touching. Is that how it’s supposed to be applied?
@@unknownknown8555 If you're taping a 30mm rim, we'd recommend going with the 33m tape to account for the depth of the drop channel. The tape should contact the rim across the entire profile to prevent any leaks from occurring.
If you are re-taping a Grail rim, you'll want to remove any existing tape, clean the drop channel thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol, and then apply 2 continuous layers of 25mm yellow tape.
Simply installing tubeless tape on a non-tubeless compatible rim is not a proper conversion. To convert a non-tubeless rim to tubeless, you are better off using one of our rubber conversion rim strips. They were discontinued a few years ago, but they can still be found through various online or brick and mortar sources. For more info on our rubber conversion strips, check out or website- www.notubes.com/rim-strip
Why on your website does it say your 27mm tape is recommended for rims with an internal width of 25-27mm. Yet you say here we need to buy wider tape? I bought the 27mm tape for my 27mm internal rims based on the info posted on your website product page. Will this work or no?
NOTE: Not all rim tape is this crappy semi-rigid plastic crap like Stan's yellow, there is REAL RIM TAPE out there which is supple, flexible and about 10x stronger than Stan's yellow crap.
This kit is like a fraud, I bought the kit and followed the instructions by the book to the letter and it just does not stop leaking the air. I have purchased two times the tape and I don't get the expected results.
@@notubes It sheers at the eyelets when you run inserts because its as thin as wrapping paper. Your rim tape just tears and bleeds air out the eyelets. I feel bad referring to it as "rim" tape BECAUSE ITS NOT. Troubleshoot that. For a company that is focused on tubeless I wonder how you spend your time....apparently not in r&d. STANS YELLOW IS THE WORST RIM TAPE EVER!!! BUYS SOMETHING ELSE OR JUST BURN YOUR $30!
