In this video we show you the entire process of tuckpointing a chimney. Willamette Chimney. Please visit us at: willamettechimn... or Call us at 503-583-5077.
I'm a mason for over 30 years and I've been a masonry contractor for about 10. What you have seen in this video is a true professional doing a very professional job. That chimney will be good, like new, requiring zero additional maintenance, for at least another 10 years after his tuck-pointing work on it. Well done sir.
not a warranty question but how long should something like this last using the fireplace once a month? im near SLC-UT 🇺🇸 or best to call the masonry people? as the local chimney sweep said that it's about a 2-year job between when i need them again
@@richardprice5978that’s a good question because this grout bagging is no skills nonsense! Tuck pointing is a trade in other countries for a reason! TUCKPOINTING is a DRY MIX and takes skills to hold dry mud on the trowel This messy sloppy grout bagging is for no skills wankers and this guy did a half ass job of cutting out the joints and you can see the old mortar stuck all over the place like he just ran the grinder around and never looked inside the joints which is pretty typical for Americans especially! This is taking the by the book process and trying to make everything easier and trying to properly cut out and repoint a chimney on a sloped roof is really difficult hard work so I don’t mean to be overly critical but I worked as a REAL TUCKPOINTER and nobody ever used a grout bag and I would never even attempt it because it’s dumb reverse engineered for the no clue wankers and I see dozens of these grout bagging clowns who claim to be TUCKPOINTING??? THERES not one single “ tuck” anywhere and you cannot tuck anything with a grout bag so dummies don’t even have the first clue what TUCKPOINTING even is! STANDARDS and basic knowledge are gone in the USA Today and I only know what I know because I worked with a dinosaur and now I am a dinosaur and it’s embarrassing to watch videos like this flim flam nonsense! This is a whole lot of work to go through just to Cob Job flim flam
Despite the plethora of negative comments - the years have taught me that there is something to learn from every video. I liked it and will rewatch it. I'm neither restoring the Taj Mahal nor redoing an antique restoration. This subject has many videos. This was good. Thx.
Have watched a fair amount of videos on this topic. This is the best one by far. Clearly a professional who explains his trade well. Super helpful for an upcoming project I have. Thank you!
He’s not a professional! He’s a no skills wanker! Americans have no idea what tuck pointing is and use a grout bag because they have no clue no skills I worked many years as a real mason and real tuckpointer and no one ever used a grout bag! Big waste of material and a sloppy mess and you cannot Tuck with a grout bag! Americans don’t know the first thing about tuck pointing which is the Tuck
@@toecutter1015 Non-professional here - but one who's pointed and repaired enough garden walls to know that you are right. I wouldn't want this treatment on my chimney.
"alwagers, do you like movies about masons laying block and slinging mud?" (Parody of this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-j9FOTwu0EEo.html)
Thanks for the knowledge boss. Been in home remodeling for about 4 years now. Only 30, and I've grown really passionate about the field. Project managing for this new gig I landed, well educated on mostly everything other than kitchen & bath, heating, plumbing, electrical work, and masonry. Got some plans tossed at me for this massive apartment buildings and i ran into "tuckpointing". My head starting itching 😅. This helped alot. Great video, very informative.
The current result is beautiful. The professional way of smoothing out mortar looks appealing compared to what I was thinking of from a finger dragged across a taped off area.
THANK YOU! This is one of the best how-to videos I've seen for us average DIYers with old houses (and I've watched a ton of them). My 95yo chimney is in far worse shape than this one, and you excellent commentary and tips-not to mention excellent camera work and lighting-have been a tremendous help. Thank you for taking the time to share this with us.
@@cliffordbrand5969 thanks im needing this service done to my place so it's nice to know what to expect from my mason/a mason doing the job sounded like the hole top part of the chimney ( love chimney's and fireplaces parts of the character/charme that sold the place to me plus white stone/brick siding ) cap/roof-stack needed to come completely off and be rebuilt brick by brick but maybe i miss understood how the process works or does sometimes that's what needs to happen to fix it right? all i know is it flunked it's fire-marshal/county ( plus birds and other critters were living in it somehow i missed that and it add's to the damages ) testing and was told not to use it intel i got it fixed, guess after i do get it repaired i need to use it more often as it went bad from neglect/unused for 5+years and now is also threatening the rest of the structural integrity of the 1960's-70-house i didn't know about this when i first moved in so im passing too others as a FWI-cautionary tell
The term ‘tuckpointing’ in North America seems to be used for what we in the UK simply call ’pointing’. Tuckpointing over here is something very specific; it entails flushing up the joint with a mortar colour matched to the brickwork and then tucking a quarter inch bead of contrasting colour mortar into it. There are several excellent videos demonstrating the technique on RU-vid.
I am one of extremely few in the BAC democratic run into the ground Union that understands the process of tuck pointing only because I learned from a dinosaur who had culture and sense and sensibility! It’s painful to watch these grout bagging wankers! No one ever used a grout bag in my day! I wasted my entire career in the trades in the USA! I belonged in London or somewhere where TUCKPOINTING is a trade and done by the book properly! I never did side work outside of the trash Union because I knew that I couldn’t compete with the flim flam men like this slob! I love watching Londons penny roll and ribbon style and Irish Wigging and I have great admiration and mad respect for the real ones who have serious culture and know the trade from centuries of proven science!
Great job. I'm a chimney/stone man and what I do to skip the acid washing bc I hate it is I use a slicker and a hawk. Pre wet the chimney and before it dries totally I use a dryer mix and stuff and strike as I go. The old chimney guy I learned from never let me use a bag said that's not how it's done but looks great. Nice job man
lucas keeley an important benefit of using a bag is that there is less repetitive motion taking place. You’re not constantly turning to get more mud which, over the years, is going to affect your back.
I have done it both ways, the grout bag is faster but it is also a bit messier. Doing it the old way with a hawk board and slicker does provide a higher quality job. You are able to pack the mortar tighter in to the joints with less chance of leaving voids. I carry Rose Brand slickers (the flat joint tool) each slicker have a different sizes on each end, that gives me six different sizes, that allows me to properly pack every size joint from small to large. Then I follow up with a regular concave joint tool. One way to get speed and better quality is to use the grout bag, then pack the joint with a slicker, then along with some additional firm mortar finish with a concave jointer.
I was skeptical when you first placed the mortar on how messy it looked, but when you cleaned it all up with your round & flat tools, it looked so nice & very professional. Excellent work!
@@cliffordbrand5969 hello there! So me and the wife just bought a house about a year and a half ago and noticed maybe 5 6 months in that our chimney has a leak. Our chimney runs up the back of our house which is connected to our family room and the roof of the family room. Is at an angle on the outside.colonial style home, from my bedroom window i can sled down to my chimney if you know what I'm saying.. Anyway the drip was small at first and then its started getting real bad having to put towels down in the front of the fireplace so water doesn't run through the front on to the carpet. I'm no expert so i can't spot the problem but my son did say he noticed that there is a good 3" 4" inch space (open) at the top of the chimney under the cap. Somebody told me look up in my chimney when it's sunny out and i should be able to see any kind of light that will point me to the problem not sure how credible that theory is but i did it and don't see anything except the light at the top from the crown.. Wife thinks it is the flashing that's draining right down from the roof into the cracks. Professionals wont return our calls and I'm ready to fix it my damn self before my house floats away. I'm thinking the people that lived here before us just rigged it up with calk or who knows what! In short.. I'm lost and you seem like the man with the plan.. any advice you could give me would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for this video. My chimney needs this same work done. It's interesting to see what they'll be doing. I'm sure it's going to cost a lot. You did a great job. Wish I could get up there and do it but I'm afraid of heights.
Been 9 years since my last tuckpoint on my chimney. Uncle taught me how. Got some new decay to attend too. Couple shallow spots I did a decade ago need to be ground out deeper this time. 1/4" is too shallow. I have a Quick Point mortar gun. It's a dream to use once you get over the learning curve.
Great teaching video but would have liked to see you do the top also and more about the acid wash and painting. We got a $l0k bid to have ours done and not a big chimney and we did have them do the roof but after three call backs and still a leaking area we are looking to do this our-self. Hard to find honest experienced masons in our area. Thanks again you make it look easy!
This is such a completely different method to how we repoint historic brick with lime mortar. You seem to have it so much easier, except for how critical you have to be on the timing. Lime is really forgiving, a very long working time.
Thank you, Josh. Historic restoration is a bit of a different animal, and the average homeowner usually is not going to fork out the money required (I wouldn't either!)
Not happy the roof wasn’t protected where the concrete excess accumulated, the work is great but a small ounce of prevention would of made for a excellent job.
That bag thing means you're getting too much mortar on the front of the joint and too little at the back - where you need it to bond to bricks and existing mortar.
How long after mixing the mortar is about the right time for tuckpointing and nurftynard duty? Are we talking 15 minutes or two hours on a moderate temp day, for example?
What exactly is the mortar mixture ? Is it 5:1 sand to cement ? When adding water to the mixture, how do you know when to stop adding water ? Must be runny enough to exit the injection bag, but not too runny to run out of joint ?
I am curious to ask, i was always told and advised, that when pointing of any kind after removing the old cement you must wet it down thoroughly before filling it back with new, so it does not dry out, a nd it helps the new cement to stick there to the brickwork,I was told this is a must do job,so i always have ,
Yes the mortar will stain the roof, get some old carpet to put down,he will step in it and push it into the shingles,then he will have to use a wire brush to clean the shingles and that messes up the shingles.
As long as there’s no heavy on the shingles aka no clumps or mortar that is 3D and is only a smear will come right off with moratic acid don’t have to let it sit long and dilute it with water 50/50. Comes right off only reacts with mortar, doesn’t hurt singles rinse down thoroughly. Also grout bagging isn’t the way and is dog shit lazy. the whole point of traditional pointing is that every time you put mud in there and strike it with your tool off a hawk it’s building up psi and eliminating all air pockets as you are striking it flush to brick before raking back and finishing joints. When dumbasses like this grout bag shit it’s not going to hold up nearly as well only striking it once as well as loosely “caulking” it in. often these people using a bag will put too hard of a mortar in it so it’s less gritty and easier to get out of bag like this dumb ass said he’s using type s mortar to repoint it. Type s is laying mortar and for new builds and or relaying, sets up way harder and there for will be a solid chance that it’s then harder than the brick causing the brick to spall and faces to pop off as this is not new brick it’s weathered and has aged. You want the mortar to be softer than the brick always. Brick expand and contract needs to be able to breathe. He should of used type N mortar 2 to 1 probably. I match mortar daily historic and newer builds and can get it spot on almost everytime. Most the time can’t even tell what work was done that’s the goal in renovating masonry to match existing as close as possible. All that is common sense if you’re in this field so people that do this makes zero sense to me other than them being lazy and doing it for speed and not quality. Gotta be able to do both.
@Sly Steve That's not too thick. That's nicely done as far as a "wash" crown goes, minus the lack of expansion. These last many years but yes they always crack. No expansion around the flue liner will guarantee cracks. The best way, in my opinion, is to form and pour a concrete crown with overhang, at least 3 inches thick. I go 3.5-4". I wrap the flue in sill seal for expansion, then top quality caulking around the flue. Then cut a drip kerf into the overhang underneath, and spray with a penetrating sealer.
Raymond Hogue, you basically just mix Portland cement and sand 3 to 1 ratio. Some do 2 to 1. Meh 🤷🏼♂️ whatever works. I use coarse sand for strength. Sand topping mix, like was mentioned in the video is basically the same thing. Wrap the chimney in sill seal or some type of expansion material, then cut off excess after the crown is cured and caulk. Dampen the top of chimney before putting it on, or it will suck the moisture out and shrink crack the hell out of it. Try not to do this on a really sunny, blazing hot day either. It'll shrink crack. Wet cure if possible as it's drying, by misting it or covering it in damp cloth. Oh, after troweling it on and roughly getting the shape, wait a little and use a damp, wrung out sponge to smooth it like he did.. If you wait just right it'll smooth out really nice. I also add an acrylic fortifier/bonding agent. No one probably cares at this point but, hey someone might need the info
I know a good cake decorator who'd be good on the grout bag for you, and i know it's all about time but a good old hammer and chisel would save all that dust flying about just like in the good old days.
This is an interesting video but the proposition of working on a roof to retuck a chimney is almost impossible to imagine. One slip and you're done. But it's good to see the process by a professional.
@@DRS659 Almost everything built in the United States in the last 25 years has been built with type S mortar. It's the standard mortar specified for most block and brick jobs. It's the standard mortar stocked at all the big box home improvement stores. It's very likely that the chimney was originally built with type S mortar. On the wetting the bricks, yes, that is right. BUT, if you look at the job while he's grinding out the joints, you'll see that the bricks are covered with dust from the grinding. Then look at the next scene where he his beginning the tuck-pointing and you'll see the bricks and joints are all very clean, suggesting that he did rinse it with water. You want the bricks hydrated but not soaked. Too wet and they don't draw the moisture from the mortar to create a good bond. In other replies here he said he rinsed down the roof repeatedly. Probably as he was rinsing the bricks off, don't you think? And the shelter? It's hot up there and he did say "if it's hot, strike sooner." If the sun is beating directly on the bricks, they dry out faster, so shade is helpful to do a good job as well as make the worker more comfortable. Nothing wrong with that at all. Try working in Arizona one summer and you'll see great value in a little shade.
how old is the structure...were kiln fires of factory brick used??? Do the brick have holes in them if so factory brick is hard fired. You can use your type 's mortar'. If kiln-fired old brick then you should use hydrated lime and not Roman cement If structure constructed before the end of WW2 then kiln fired, after WW 2 then factory fired. Rule of thumb...joint depth should be twice the height of joint....if joint is 1/2 inch then depth should be 1 inch. And joint area should be clean, don't leave patches of old mortar in joint area.
The experts in the comment section should make their own videos and provide links along with their comments or at least a link to a video where they show how to do it right. If not, just shut up, you help nobody.
It's practice. If you need to practice before doing a job, then do this (Its how they train in the union:) Make a bricklaying mortar out of sand and lime ONLY. Do not add cement. Look up the formula. Mix the sand and lime together before adding water. Get yourself about 70 bricks. Lay them out 8 bricks to the course (layer) Practice buttering the bricks and laying them up. Level and plum each course as you build it up. I should be shooting a video on how to do this in a month or so. It will be at least 30 minutes long. The sand and lime mortar can be removed and re-used for practice purposes. If you set it aside for an extended period, just check it once a day and add more water and mix it up. Use a hoe and a wheel barrow.for mixing. I really need to shoot this video for you folks. It's too much to write out.
As long as the temp doesn't go below 40° at night and it can be warmer than 75 but, try not to do it the direct sunlight especially hot days unless you have done it many times. ( fast) It would be nice to do it in the shade ( make your own) on those days. or Late afternoon - Wait till you can see your thumb print before you strike. If using a tuck pointer and trowel, just do a little section at a time ex - foot square - till you get the hang of it. Make sure to keep the mortar off of the face of the brick. the mortar should be no wider than your tuck pointer / slicker when you pack it in
God the bricklayers and lead workers are BAD tradesmen , it’s plain pointing not Tucker pointing but that’s America for ya changing the meaning of words lol
