Thx for taking the time to make a video! I was looking at the mk3 mr2 Tough i think its going to take a fair amount of money to turbo... 12psi @ stock block thats brave :) 1zz for the win
I think you are being too modest. You are smart to start with low boost, then upgrade later (intercooler, injectors, ECU) as you gain experience and/or you reach the limits of what you can do with what you have. Very nice work and concise video. Where did you get your exhaust manifold?
NastyNati Garage if your wanting to do it cheap, look at buying a turbo from a Nissan 200sx s13, can be picked up reconditioned really cheap and they are a genuine garret
I am running an AEM FIC/6 piggy back. The tuning is actually quite simple with a little bit of programming in excel when using the logging capabilities of the AEM FIC6. I have an air to air running at 10 psi and it is soooo much fun in autocross.
Hey, I am in the process of installing an AEM FIC/6 on my 1zz Celica. Do you have any resources I can learn from? Or any tips you could give me, like some headsup or something? I'm starting with just the FIC and I am wiring it car so I can start tweaking the maps and learn its workings...after that turbo
@@mantal94 Pretty straight forward if you have the wiring details of your ECU. You will need higher flow injectors and if you keep it under 10psi, your existing fuel pump is fine. Go with a small turbo otherwise turbo lag will be a problem. Since you cannot go much above 10 psi without engine internal changes, a small turbo is fine. You will also want to get a wideband O2 sensor and tie it into the AEM. Then you can log your engine's performance and tune it. I wrote macros for Excel and I can get it tuned in about 5 runs.
@@anthonypistilli5323 well, the wiring on the car is pretty much done and I'll connect the FIC soon. I'll start with a map with everything set to 0 as to just ensure the connections work properly and then slowly I'll start tweaking things to understand how the car behaves. After that it's turbo time...I know what the steps are but since I'm not familiar with them they do at times seem a bit daunting. Would it be possible for you to give me an email or instagram so I can seek some advice later on if needed? Your setup seems to be pretty much what I am looking for
Hey Lee, hope you can give me some help if not too busy?? I have an 03' with only 57k on it. I've also added a GT28R turbo -w-Greddy E-Management Ultimate on it, Tein Flex suspension W/FDFC, Enkei 17" wheels, Bear brakes, Custom designed by Me Magnaflow Duel outlet exhaust. And many more upgrades. My question is? I was told to just unplug the two front O2 sensors by the manifold as the Piggy back ECU has a o2 sensor of it's own. I keep a check engine light due to this so I'm wondering should I plug them back in or do the resistor trick you did? WYT? Also I'm running about 9 PSI should I change out the stock Fuel injectors too?
Hey! I know this video is a few years old, but Im actually turboing my MR2 1zz in like 2 - 3 days, I already ordered a bunch of parts and pieced together the kit myself (and Im gonna record the process for youtube) I bought an intercooler, but I might skip it for simplicity purposes if you think it's safe. I plan on running 5psi on an ebay / chinese turbo (GT2860 / GT2871), using an Apexi Power FC. How were your IAT's?
I am doing a turbo 2002 Mr2 spyder build with the Greddy Emanage Ultimate. I was wondering what all your jumper settings were set to, and What kind of wiring harnesses and sensors you used. Also where exactly did you spider all the wires to from your GEU. So I guess I am just curious just how you hooked your Greddy Emanage unit up to the car and your basic settings.
Hi sir,had u install intercooler? sorry if i missed it,do u have any haet soak problem for the long run since i see u had no any extra fan or cooling system in it
How about your induction buddy, is it tucked down behind the coolant header tank? Interestingly, that crank case breather on the TTE kit is connected to the turbo inlet. Looked odd to me, but it is the original TTE intake pipe and has a connection for it. The other interesting thing about the TTE kit is the intercooler sits just angle up under the front of the gear box, interesting place to put it but it works. Car goes alright that I bought so far, apart from it was boating and felt a bit unstable under hard acceleration or at speed, found a rear shock was blown so changed it, also toed out the front wheels both slightly as one was toed out the other toed in! Only weird thing I have noticed is the exhaust is full of soot. When starting at cold the exhaust chucks blobs of soot out on the floor over time. Once warm it's clear which is odd. The car boosts to .67 PSI max with the TTE kit, so close to 10psi on the stock engine. I was surprised, thought it would be 7 or less.
Mike Nefkens yeah inlet tucked up into the side vent. Seems strange to have boost onto the breather. I got mine a full alignment and made a massive difference. These engine seem to take quite a lot of boost, stronger than people think. Forget rods and they are bullet proof
Cool thanks, that's where I was thinking of placing mine. Yep seems odd but it does say in the manual that's where it connects. It's actually on the inlet pipe through from the air box, so the turbo kind of re-circulate the crank case fumes back into the turbo. I've got a more pressing issue though, the guy I bought it from stated it was using oil, came with a receipt to show leak down test, turbo test and such all came out clean, so he changed the valve stem seals. Only prob is, I serviced it and pulled the plugs, plugs are jet black and wet, each plug hole is also wet with some oil and the tops of the pistons :( The motor is going well, but small puff of smoke when letting off at high RPM (only noticeable at night you can just make it out in headlights behind, in the day can't see any). No loss of power and still goes well. Hoping it's not the rings / pistons, maybe he lied and didn't change the stem seals, or maybe he didn't do it properly or the gasket he fitted is bad. Need to try and work it out so it's put a bit of a downer on things atm.
I’m interested in how you get an mot while running that exhaust system? Surely if you remove the cat from the car, it’s an automatic fail? I’m very close to ordering the monkey wrench turbo kit but I need to know how you get past the mot. Help!!
I've been looking into getting a Celica with a 1ZZ since it is easier to find, cheaper, and i love the Tail body kits for the car. Do you know anywhere i can find parts outside of monkey wrench racing that is cheaper or are they the only ones that have quality products? Keep up the great work on the vids and MR2S :D
I have a 1zz mr2 spyder id like to turbo...my initial plan is to get a cheap ass kit. U said that was a mistake in ur case...would u recommend i source out the kit components individually?
Pedro Mendoza I have 2001 mr2 spyder is a proyect i been washing ur videos i will like more info about the engine , for example did u upgraded the stock engine or did u changed the engine completely. Don’t k know what to do with the engine I just want give it little More HP AND COUPLE MORE UPGRADES MAKE IT LOOK NICE AND CLEAN NOTHINGS CRAZY JUST WANT ENJOY THE RIDE IN IT. What do u recommend to do with the engine ?
I notice you mention stock injectors were maxed out, whereas I thought they could flow enough for over 200hp. I'm running a TTE turbo, with SP exhaust and 9psi still on stock injectors. The TTE manual doesn't call for changing injectors at all with the turbo conversion.
Mike Nefkens mine were running at over 80% duty cycle. They weren't maxed but it's not good to run them maxed out. Also the air density can change a lot between turbo's and cooling systems, the more dense the air, the more fuel it requires to maintain the ratio. 9psi on one setup up is different to 9psi on another.
SpyderLEE thanks for the information! i wanted to do a turbo install,but the oil consumption was a real big deal for me and now u fixed my problem! thx mate ;)
Use Castrol Magnetic for economy driving or Castrol Titanium Fluid Technology for street performance. Along with "Prolong oil treatment" I used Mobil which is trash because many engines eat mobile one oil. Castrol oil is a different story. Castrol Oil additives are more advanced and totally change your driving experience. It is true " Liquid Engineering" MObile one oil has never been a good oil. If one person said its good oil, everyone is going to buy it on the market, BECAUSE its "MOBILE ONE" But do they know what they are even putting in there engine? Castrol is racing oil, which is used in one of the greatest race cars and engines, such as Skyactive technology.
Great vid hanks mate. Just joined up MR2OC and keen to get cracking with this. Are you using a separate rad for the chargecooler or can you plumb into the main rad like you did for turbo coolant? Also is it a stupid question or can you get away with doing this without pulling the engine out? Hardest job i can see is welding oil return boss on the oil pan. Or is it getting access behind the engine for intake stuff? Sorry for the many questions!!
It’s all a squeeze but I didn’t take my engine out. Charge cooler is a separate circuit with its own rad at the front. Coolant circuits run hot. Charge cooler circuits run cold.
Nothing special about a 2zz. They are only any good stock vs stock. This build has 50% more power than a 2zz and if I put the cost of fitting a 2zz into building this engine , it would still have 50% more power than a turbo'd 2zz.
@@SpyderLEE with this setting you had (most likely) around 325 bhp at the wheels, it 's doubtful if you would get more than 340 bhp in a 2ZZ with stock internals at 12psi.
