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You could install a microswitch at the throttlebody or below the gas pedal so that the contraption only begins to spin once full throttle is applied. Might hook up an additional fuel pump to the same circuit, that squirts some more gasoline into the intake at the same moment.
lol right but ware is the fun in that. I have a peddle car in my head after they made one. I want to make one just to take my kids to school. Now I'm thinking I could use a starter to help go over bumps or for reverse.
I’m actually curious about this kind of thing at lower rpm on cruise control on a highway, seeing if it reduces pumping losses more than the energy it consumes
Man. I can't get enough about this channel. Every time I open the channel, there is an amazing video. Keep up the amazing work guys! And thanks to BMI for translating too!
Easily the best automotive channel on RU-vid. It is all about theory and execution and is amazing. Great for people troubleshooting automotive ideas as well.
@@A_Maggot at the biguinning yes, but o lowerewd the volume a bit and now i got used to the voice, i identify it to the channel, if it changed it'd be weird ahah
If y'all could manage it, a spring starter instead of an electric starter would be really cool. Wind it up, turn the key, disengage the starter brake and hear the engine jolt to life, no battery really needed
Excellent experiment. The alternator will put more load on the engine unless you use a separate battery. Only then it will be completely separate from the engine. Keep up the excellent vids. Big respect from me here in the UK 🇬🇧
essentially this a hybrid. the altenator will be drawing a small amount of power more longer to regenerate the battery but when needed the starter will be taking that power back more strongly.
@@peterparker-fg5kr and that would defeat the purpose of their goal here, which was a standalone apparatus that doesn't directly sap power from that weak ass engine to do its job. MarcAFK is right.
How about an automatic switch on option.... Maybe a physical switch connected to the relevant position of the throttle cable or pedal or carb etc which is related to say...half throttle....or a switching relay connected to the RPM sensor so at a specifically chosen RPM, the relay is switched on, allowing current to flow to the turbo drive motor. The motor.... Find a motor that's designed for long duty cycle use. Maybe from an electric scooter, or a washing machine, via a 12v DC inverter with a high output
7:04 Might sound negative.. But im only pointing this out. Most factory turbo vehicles have their MAF sensor before the turbo, not in the charged side of turbo. I have 2 vehicles with MAF's before turbo from factory. I personally would prefer setup that way because if turbo has a leaking journal bearing, it will blow oil deposits in the charged side of intake and leave pools of oil resting at bottom of intercoolers. The MAF sensor should be kept dry but also not get beat up by forced induction mods.
This takes me back to my goofing days with an S13 in the early 2000s. I ran my electric turbo off a 1400W AC motor, inverter and some other bits. Managed to ruin two transmissions during 'testing' before really refining the idea. I ended up making a reverse planetary gear drive to ramp up the rpm range of the turbo from 23k to ~90k. My bearing cooling idea was a complete fail, but it was glorious for about 30 seconds. I wish I knew what I know now about engineering and jet engines, but that is the way of things.
11:27. I believe the way you have the blower set up it's building pressure inside the intake enough at high res to open a valve slightly when it's not supposed to be open. That was probably gas and exhaust mixing and exploding in the exhaust pipe manifold and then exiting out the back
Misfiring and detonation at high RPM. Common for boosted or supercharged motors. Needs tighter spark plug gap or more powerful ignition and more timing
Nah that turbo won't be building even close to enough pressure to do that. I'd be surprised if it made much than 1psi. More likely to be unburned fuel built up when it hit the rev limiter.
Turbos take a hi-pressure oil feed off the engine block to the 2x plain bearings holding the impeller shaft. I didn't seen any provision for providing oil on this otherwise excellent piece of "standalone engineering"!! Develop it into a retro-fit kit and sell it as part of your "Merch". :-)
Starter has a lot of torque but isn't designed to run for longer periods. I would put it on its own power supply.. make sure it has adequate amperage and it will run cooler. You would gain power by changing out the pulleys to maximize how fast the blower pulley spins without burning out the starter. A simple button that has to be held down to activate could be mounted under the gas pedal. Extend it and possibly put a spongey material above it so it will activate 3/4 throttle and not hender your gas pedal from going all the way down. You let up and it stops. Or..... a potentiometer that is mounted next to the gas pedal rod. It will increase power as you push on the gas. I'm jealous. You guys are having too much fun 😆
I'm thinking that uncontrolled bang & smoke at the tail pipe was the turbo charger blowing out the next cylinder air/fuel charge & it went bang in the wrong place! funy stuff keep up the fun .
Get a 4 speed blower motor switch from a climate control system. You have four different levels of power 25% 50% 75% and 100%. Run the switch output to your blower motor power input. This has a massively bad lag time. The turbo should always be spinning somewhat. If you leave the blower motor switch on low or medium low positions you should idle fine. Positions medium-high and high should be connected to a switch on the gas pedal or throttle so the turbo will only spool up at wide open throttle. Unless the gas pedal is pressed to the floor the blower motor will remain in the low or medium low setting. If you properly hook up your electrical this can be achieved with relays.
I feel you're getting good results because when it isn't turned on, it's massively restricting airflow and hurting 'stock' performance.. a regular turbo will spin slowly at idle, this being connected to a pulley doesn't turn at all. I'd love to see a boost gauge to see what kind of boost is being generated.
hurting stock performance? on a LADA????? good luck with that! i drove a few in the UK when they weere sold here and gutless was probably the nicest way to describe the performance.
Use a brushless motor with an electronic speed controller and connect a potentiometer to the accelerator pedal so that the motor spins faster the more you put your foot down then tune the map!
I haven't watched this but I know it will work (reasonably well). I always know that it will drain the car's battery very quickly and that's why Turbo's are not designed to be electrically powered.
i would run piping from trunk area . install 12 volt air compressor, tank with large volume dump valve and regulator to control volume of the dump. or change drive motor and just hide in trunk if its a race car , so you can throw bonnet back on. maybe i make like this and put in my truck toolbox .
That was a great job now tune the motor and stuff up also gages inside to track boost also cooling coils on the starter or something else just as powerful but not to get as hot to make um waffles. Not a good thing but keep us posted I love your ideas some are way out there but without thinking like this who knows. You might get a patent along the way on this best wishes from Canada
That big, unexpected exhaust fart, was a sudden burning of excess gas, with a millisecond of the exhaust valve open. Pretty much a good correlation to the human body.
Like you said Vlad the starter is the weak point . My suggestion is using a motor from a electric bike something like 1500-2000 watts .. they go for about 50-100$ without the batteries and then all you need to do is setup the controller set to max out on engagement and also You will need a a pressure release valve that can be adjusted for unecesary blow off while reviewing down to have it like a blow off ... Would be be funny if you attached a rubber duck and those whistles on them as the blowoff
How it get lube ? As a turbo it takes constant lube . Why not use a complete turbo with oil lube and youse the exhaust side of the turbo to bust the intake side of the turbo. To drive it a small air tool with a simple air compressor and tank on the motor. Lots air tools spin 10,000 rpm’s . Depending on how much air and the air speed that feeds the tool depends on the amount of output boost ? Will it work? We also need a boost gage we need see what it’s putting out ??? Oil from an oil gallery and a return to the oil pan . Oh and of course an air fuel mixture gauge to see how lean she is going don’t want to melt them pistons . It’s always a bit strange to see through a exhaust manifold lol
A big brushless motor would be good, but then would require an ESC too. What’s the power system? Off the internal battery? Still puts load on the engine via the alternator, and I’m guessing that starter motor is not very efficient. Curious if the boost vs power is lower than a regular exhaust driven turbo. With an external battery pack of lipos though, would be no load placed on the system. Really cool project.
I love this channel! Thanks for the great videos. I think the mass airflow sensor should be before the turbo, not after it. That way it will accurately read the amount of air the turbo is pulling in.
sumting i seen done a while back : add an electric motor with a ratchet to the crank of the gas engine , the electric motor would add the power directly to the crank at low rpm then the gasengine would take over
I used a leaf blower to pump air in to the engine, you need an inverter from 12v to 220 v. If you put a glass of petrol in the oil will the engine go faster?
They actually make electric turbo setups... And they actually perform fairly decent... I'd say with a tune this one would be a lot better... You can tell the difference in the car how it put them back in the seat when it came on...👍👍👍👍👍
Never seen a Lada in person.. this would be a fun project to do to any car, just afew cheap bolt on parts and you have a slightly faster car. (Definitely needs some improvement, doesn't look very reliable.) Mabye a Miata?
Okay guys, how about converting an alternator to a permanent magnet motor and using that to power the turbo. A wind turbine permanent magnet alternator would be better because it will produce more torque at a lower rpm. Or just have the alternator rewound . 👍 There are many RU-vid videos of people converting alternators .
First thing get that starter motor out it's not designed for continuous use. May have to use 110 with a converter but check for 12 volt then 110 I knew it would do exactly that I wasn't sure how well it would do I was a little surprised
That looks like a gear-reduction starter, if so that adds a massive inefficiency with your system as you're gearing the medium rpm motor down to low rpm, then back up to medium and again to high rpm. You could probably simplify that down to just 2 pulleys and 1 belt if you mounted the pulley directly to the armature.
Perhaps you could convert an alternator into a 3 phase motor, that way, it would be powerful, wont get hot, and could stay on for extended periods of time if you wanted to use that to run the turbo, instead of the starter motor.
Should incorporate some sort of butterfly valve, to split the air flow between the throttle body and electric turbo. So you don't sacrifice n/a performance sucking air through the turbo/piping when it's not energized.
Starter motors are only designed to run for a very short time. You need to find a different motor.. Maybe something like a cordless drill motor possibly.
Instead of a Starter Motor, use a Compressed Air Bottle that could provide the Turbo Boost - in place of the exhaust gas. The Turbo would easily reach a high speed, with not much lag.
the danger of doing this, is that the air to fuel mixture gets lean, when the mixture gets lean, the RPM raises and the engine gets hotter and the piston/piston rings can burn and deform. to counter this, add more fuel to the engine at the same time as the turbo.
Use much bigger starter motor and 24V (2x12V batteries in series) . This should give enough power. Once I used that method in my electric bicycle. It was terribly powerful!
You should try an connecting brushless motors to the turbo externally to spool it using 12v :) Some more wild ideas. Compressed air intake systems do wonder! Worth getting a scuba cyl and pump it up with air to replace the turbo? :)
Cool homemade electric supercharger lol....you guys are so cool :) You probably didnt add enough power to offset the weight you added but this is still really cool. Still far more efficient to just hook the turbo to the exhaust. Perhaps use what you built in conjunction with a traditional turbo to help spool the main turbo up?
Why don’t you wire a injector in the intake that also works off the button but have it hooked up to a pressure regulator so you can adjust the amount of fuel it sprays so then no actual ecu tune is necessary so it stays very stand alone.
I know this would be harder but if you initially took the starter apart, I believe there is already a gear reduction in there and then that would be that much less gearing up you would have to do But maybe not all starters have a gear reduction I don’t know?
Can you make a One-shot turbo boost using a tank of compressed air with a butterfly value? It would be real easy to hide the air tank and make the car a sleeper
When the Boost is not engaged is the engine starving for air? Trying to get air from the compressor. I would find a way to split the intake off to a regular air filter and install some sort of one-way valve so that are can't go out the filter when the Boost is engaged
I want to know, if a Charger pulled from crankshaft with some of diferential 1:6 will make the charger create enough boost. Like from the spin of the engine itself.
If you force air through the turbo to boost it how does the engine get air when it isn't boosting. Seems like you need a one way valve that closes when the turbo starts to blow air to build pressure. I know this would make a large difference.
