Turn your Nikon z30 into a Cinematic Beast - for Free! 

Thank you for the kind comment SourceAwareness!

Wow, that's pretty high praise! Thanks!

@@DallasJylbe my mentor bro

Yes, I agree! Finally some love for Nikons on video side

I have a pretty stable hand, but your rs3 is easily capable of getting better results than mine with some practice. The footage you see here is 120p slow mo, and has pretty significant stabilization applied in the edit - these go a LONG way to "cheating" a smooth look. If your having some weird shakes in your rs3 footage - maybe you have your image stabilization turned on in camera? Stabilizers like the rs3 don't play nice with camera/lens VR and can make for some weird results.

@@DallasJyl interesting. I'll do some experiments and release a video about the subject. Thanks.

Glad it was helpful!

Glad it was helpful!

I'm glad it was helpful Munna!

Yes, you essentially have 6 separate profiles, 3 for photos, 3 for videos - though actually 8. Because your standard (M, A, S, P, etc.) also count as one for video + photo! However, I would think of your u1, u2, u3 more as presets than separate profiles, because they behave differently. This your standard modes, (M, A, S, P, & Auto) your settings are saved across modes, and are saved when you turn the camera ff and on again - so you can jump back in where you left off. u1, u2, u3 setting changes are NOT saved when you leave the mode and come back, or turn the camera off and back on. - Any ajustmants will always reset to as originally saved (including controls and dials). So I would think of these as quick setups for common shooting scenarios you encounter that are almost always the same, like: daylight vlogging, slow-motion, warm night light photos, 4k studio settings, sunrise landscapes, etc. Note: You CAN link your photo and video settings together (the camera's factory default settings are set this way out of the box), and you can pick which settings are linked, and which are not.

For sure! I used a variation of this with my Nikon D7000 (one gen after the 90) and it worked pretty well - though not as well because the compression is a bit stronger on the older cameras. I would recommend not bumping the saturation all the way down in your case. Maybe -2 or -1.

Hey! I'm glad to hear it was helpful to you :)

Ha! You'r too kind :)

No, it's not so useful for photography because you have true RAW available for photos. The image profiles only get baked in to compressed formats like jpgs, so when shooting RAW the picture profile doesn't really matter - except for previewing what your image might look like after editing. When shooting jpg photos I prefer using the portrait profile, but that is because I'm typically shooting people!

@@DallasJyl prostrate? or did you mean portrait?

@@StephenAmaguinJr lol, oops! Yes I meant portrait!

I actually originally had some example of that in the video but it was getting to bloated (long and slow) and so got cut last minute! I certainly recommend doing some tests yourself to make sure this is actually something that works well for your workflow and look you are going for!

Yes, there are controls for shifting hue in the colour profiles - and more nuanced controls that let you shift colour balance in the white balance - which is where I would personally recommend doing this.

@@DallasJyl so I can get canon like color tone then right?

Kinda. You could get more accurate results in colour grading with more advanced tools, as color/tint adjustments in camera will effect all colors not just green and red. Nikon and Cannon use different "colour science" math, which is baked into the hardware level - so technically you won't ever get a 100% match.

Hmm... I think I need more details. But the first things that come to mind are: 1. Check is to see if you made it in Photo mode instead of Video mode. They have separate image profiles. 2. If your not seeing any options to change your image profiles in the (i) menu you need to customize the (i) menu to include it. Hit the MENU button on your camera, then navigate to the pencil icon > g Video > g1 Customize (i) menu. Pick a spot and pick "Set Picture Control" I hope one of those help!

I think I am having the dame issue, I saved the picture control in C-1 and i have Set picture control on the menu. Te problem is that the custom picture control is not shown among the rest of the options ​@@DallasJyl

Yes mate, having the same issue being unable to access the saved profile in the set picture control menu to shoot

All, what I found is after creating a custom setup and saving it under "Manage Picture Controls", I then had to go to "Set Picture Controls" and I saw the default was for video mode to use camera mode. I scrolled down to where my saved C1 Z-LOG was saved and selected it. Now C1 shows up when I hit the "i" button. I believe that step was left off.

Yes, shutter can play a role. IMHO it is way over-rated ... however, some people CAN pick it out in recored footage, and I can't see it. If you want to follow conventional shutter rules, shoot in 24p (I always do) and your shutter should always be as close to duble multiple of your frame rate as you can. eg: 24p = 1/50 or 1/100, or 1/200, or 1/400 etc. 30p would = 1/60 or 1/120 or 1/240 etc.

Im like DSlwut? Hehe that threw me off too hehe

Why? 🤷‍♂️

lol

He has no idea what DSLR stands for 😂

@@rodolfo_mdn lol

Thankyou very much! I will have to look into how to make Spanish captions hepen.

Great question! The answer is: NO! There are lots of reasons to shoot LOG and "not LOG" (just like there are times its best to shoot .jpg photos, and other times its better to shoot RAW photos) - so always consider what fits your project and style best! The point of LOG is that it DOES take more time in post - allowing you to finesse that extra 10% pop in your image where you want it - and tweak exposure and colour that would be difficult or imposable to do on the shooting day. Which is why they use it on cinematic movies. But by that same token, if you don't have the time, have a quick turnaround time, or no desire/need to get that extra 10% ... you should not use it!

On paper yes, everything you’re saying is true, but there is a nuance to using Nikon and I have seen it… if you have any Nikon Z camera, choose Flat picture profile and activate D-lighting on Normal or High, and use any lens f2.8 or lower and you shall see, your nikon will beat even the Sony a7siii in terms of color rendition, dynamic range and low light… mark my words! And go test it…

@@standclear23 I thought the point was to set the image up for colour grading?

You are correct - 10/12/14 bit will always outperform 8 bit for colour grading. And I probably should have mentioned that in the video! However, bit rate is different from dynamic range. Dynamic range has more to do with the hardware, and bitrate more to do with the software. A camera *can* have high bit rate recording and poor dynamic range, and another camera *can* have low bitrate recording and good dynamic range. However, in most cases, if you have a high dynamic range in a camera you will find it likely records at a higher bitrate as-well!

@@Kori_INJNYou can do that too, as flat is not so harsh on your image… btw Nikon Zs shoot at bitrate 144. The sony a7iii shoots s-log at 100mbs, which on paper, making the Nikon, even the Z50 have better video quality than that of Sony. But also from experience, I’ve learned that Nikon image doesn’t break that easily

You can not set this setting if you are in "auto" mode.

Thanks for taking the time to give me some ideas! I would be curious for you listen and compare the audio before and after the 9:55 mark - both use cheep mics but the 2nd has a different - more bass - "sound."

@@DallasJyl 2nd one is definitely better

Valid opinion - this hack isn't for everyone.

Yes - good point. You will never be able to push this faux-LOG near as far as a 10 bit or RAW log!

@@DallasJyl 👍

Can you give me a little more detail? What exactly isn't working for you? Maybe I can help?

RU-vid compression? I'm not sure, I'm pretty happy with how it looks on my end.

@@DallasJylI think you oversharpen and maybe over saturate your footage, it does kinda look like its lower quality. Great video otherwise!

Sound is an area I am still trying to improve in - could you help me out by being a bit more specific on how it sounds so terrible? Maybe a time code where it is especially bad? Also, what device are you watching the video on?

We do have a facebook page - facebook.com/DallasandJyl?mibextid=JRoKGi