This has to be one of the best bowl demonstration videos I have ever seen and I have seen hundreds of these things. The reason is that Mike told us WHY he did what he did. Why he picked a particular tool, or method for the job. Congratulations to Mike and I hope to see him a LOT in future videos.
These turning videos of Mikes really are excellent. The content/information, clear communication on why a certain tool was used or how to do a certain thing, the camera angles, the editing and production quality, I'm really grateful for it.
This was an excellent video on all levels. Mike did a great job to narrate exactly what he was doing and why. Camera work was exceptional. Clear, well focused, and always the proper angle to show exactly what the viewer needs to see. Lighting was excellent as well. My hat is off to Mike. His technique is so understated. He seems to really connect with the level of the person watching. Thanks so much for doing this.
Wonderfully clear instructions and demonstrations of the various cuts etc. All parts of the process explained. For a newbie turner like me, this is gold content. 😃
Hands down one of the best instructional videos out there. Clear explanations and demonstrations of the process, tool techniques and finishing tips. I made my first box like this from Cherry and walnut scraps I had in the wood pile. It turned out pretty good even after I made a few mistakes. Thank you for an awesome video
I made one of these and gave it to my wife. She immediately teared up with happy tears and told me that it reminded her of her grandmother's makeup powder dish. Really great project and awesome video. Thank you for all you do!
I just wanted to say a HUGE Thank You to Mike Nish!! I have been turning for years now, all self taught by trial and error, but now I understand how to actually use the tools correctly!! Riding the bevel actually means something now! Your explanations and video skills showing how to use and position the tool is outstanding!! Going to be watching a lot of your videos now!!!
G'Day from Australia! Mike Nish is the BEST EVER presenter!! I find his presentations are clear, concise and detailed enough to be clearly understood and the most helpful!!!! Would love to see lots more!!!! Well done Mike!!!
Awesome video, I like the way the shavings just come right off the wood like ribbons. Tools are very sharp and you demonstrate excellent verbal skills. Keep up the good work 👍
Mike your videos are excellent and much appreciated. After I watch it about 10 more times I might just be able to try it. The different tools mentioned are helpful but are somewhat foreign to me, so I will try to avail myself of them. Thank you.🥲
Mike, this is outstanding in everyway. You are the master! Thank you so much…keep ‘em coming. I’m working on one of these now with spalted birch base and cherry lid.
I made one of these when the video first came out to use as a salt cellar. I tend to pour salt out and the recessed rim where the lid rests drives me nuts because the salt gets stuck in there. I've made a few others since then and adjusted how the lid sits on the bowl. A lip under the lid just narrower than the inside diameter of the bowl is my current method. Regardless, its really a lovely project and I appreciate the video that guided me to make them.
G'Day from Australia! I just rewatched the video for a refresher course on all the technique tips! Then I noticed you're using the wonderful AUSTRALIAN VICMARC chuck!!!! They're a great lathe chuck!!! 🙂
This is a great video. You make it clear what, why, where and how with all aspects of the work. Also the black background makes it easy to see the thick cloud of fine particulates of saw dust when you explained the importance of using breathing protection. It does cause some concern for for your breathing. Is there not a mick small enough to fit in a respirator? Like they have for motorcycle helmets.
Excellent video! A suggestion based on 35 years as a teacher, ALWAYS take the key out of the chuck immediately. Leaving in the chuck key in the chuck until you remove your workpiece is inviting disaster. Follow the same procedure at the drill press.
Wenn du mit dem Schleifpapier länger in der Mitte schleifst bekommst du einen Berg in der Mitte ..dimple. Die beste Korrektur dessen ist, mit der Hand ca. waagerecht durch die Mitte einige Striche schleifen und dabei mit der Hand das Werkstück schrittweise etwas drehen. Dadurch erfolgt ein verstärkter Antrag genau in der Mitte! 😉
Mike are you Dale Nishs Grandson? I meet him back in the 90's when I was stationed at Malmstrom in Montana and liked him and his work and one of the reasons why after I was in a bombing in the middle east I taken it up as a hobby. Well done on the box and next do a bird house like he did. :)
Hello, a very informative video, which despite its length is not boring for a moment. I started woodturning almost a year ago and was able to learn a lot here. Many thanks for that. I have two questions: 1. how do you sharpen the long edge of the box scraper? 2. what exactly is the finish that you apply and where can you get it? I've already subscribed to your channel. Greetings from Germany Andreas
Wonderful job Mike, have you ever tried "friction polish"? Beautiful finish, nearly instant and food safe! Equal parts boiled linseed oil, denatured alcohol, and shellac. - On a related note, i just made a heavy round nose scraper and I ground a bevel several inches up the left side. I may try some of these small "boxes" -Tyler
Hi Mike -- really good video, the detail is very helpful. Two questions -- I'd like to know more how you grind the side of the box scraper so it is also a cutting edge for the insides of the box? Also, my instincts are to avoid putting an oil finish on top of wax, for fear that it won't adhere. But obviously it works for you?
Thank you for a great demonstration and wonderful presentation of key information. I'm hoping I can ask a question. I was of the belief that a wax-based substance, such as the one applied to the Utility Box could interfere with a subsequent application of a non-wax finish. In this instance, Tried and True was mentioned as the final off-camera finish. Because it was revealed as the finish that would be used, I have to assume that the wax/abrasive that was applied won't affect Tried and True. Would Waterlox Original be safe to use on top of a wax-based product?
Hey Edward, The Tried and True finish I used has wax mixed in with the oil so I wasn't concerned with the polishing wax preventing the finish from penetrating correctly. The scratch free/ Tried and True method is what we prefer and have used it with great success. Waterlox is also a great finish to use, it has enough solvents in it to cut through any wax in the wood fiber. I use Waterlox on the majority of my projects when the weather is warm enough to let the piece cure outdoors. Hopefully this answers your question. -Mike
Wonderful video. I look forward to turning a box! I do have a question: How can Tried and True Original work over the top of the abrasive paste you used (scratch free)? Wouldn't the wax in the Scratch-Free prevent the Linseed oil in the Tried & True from being absorbed into the wood, leaving the surface tacky over time? Why not just use beeswax on top of the abrasive paste? Thank you again for a great video!
Hello Ron, We have tested almost every finish on the market on top of Scratch Freee and have found that only water based finishes are affected. With the Tried and True Original that I used it has beeswax in the formula but still penetrates and cures as expected on top of Scratch-Freee. I have moved away from using beeswax as a finish a while ago as the finish doesn't hold up and look nice long term. -Mike
I wear a cap or hat most times I tried it turnimg at first , and removed it it intetfers with my vision while wearimg visor, respirator , or my trend air pro Have you tried wet sanding with paste wax and wet dry paper like Ray Key did ?
I was using the 3/4" Henry Taylor Rounded Edge Skews that I modified the handles on. The grind is also swept back a little farther than from factory. -Mike
Hello, I would ove to try to do this type of boxes. I don't have a flat scraper, only a round one. Could you please tell me what model is this? I don't want to make a mistake in buying. Thanks!
It is very easy to grind the side of your scraper and adds a lot of versatility. Start with a regular box scraper and grind a 2" section from the tip to the handle with a bevel angle of 80 degrees. We should probably make a short video on how to do it. -Mike
Hey CrackerJack, Reason I wanted to use face grain is just for durability. Had I made this exact box using end-grain orientation it would most likely break if dropped, where as this will be quite durable. I hope that answers your question, If you make a box or two tag us on Instagram, I'd love to see it! -Mike
I've only returned to woodturning in the last couple of years and now have a true variable speed lathe (50-3200 rpm). What speeds do most of you folks reduce to for sanding?
There are a number of questions on this video compared to Richard Raffen or Ashley Harwood, etc. Not criticisms, but really want to understand the differences in technique. 1. Why don't you do a push cut on the outside of the bowl using a bevel cut to avoid tearout on doing the outside of the bowl? This often goes faster, gets smoother cuts and does not require as much scraping to finish (sometime none). 2. It appears on the inside that you are using the scraper, which appears to be square cut, at a square angle at the bottom of the bowl. Why are you either not using a negative rake grind or pointing the scraper at a down angle to avoid serious catches? 3. why not use a depth hole to help find the depth of hollowing out? Doing this avoids off and on cycles to check with your pencil gauge. 4. instead of fixing the inside tearout with paste, why not use a bevel cut with a bowl gouge down the side on a push cut in the first place? Scrapers are nice for light cuts to finish, but avoiding the torn grain in the first place is a great time saver. 5. Why are you using a skew chisel to finish the bottom of the bowl? You can cut the nub off with the chisel and a light touch of the scaper to finish the contour. In this case the skew is acting as a scraper (if you have a nice burr on the scraper). Excellent outcome and I like the choice of woods.
Hey Randy, Those are some great questions. 1. A shear scrape on the outside prevents blowing out the unsupported fibers, I try to use push cuts whenever possible but a shear scrape for me worked better on this particular piece. 2. With the scraper I didn't need a negative rake because I'm cutting side grain in the base and the scraper wont be prone to catching like it would if it was an end grain box. 3. A depth hole is a great idea to save time checking depth, It didn't cross my mind to do that during the video. 4. I used a scraper on this piece because the next project we filmed was very similar and on that project I used a gouge to cleanly cut the interior, I wanted to show multiple ways of doing it. 5. I used the skew on the bottom because its more controllable that the standard scraper, also the radius of the skew is much tighter than my scraper so a smaller cutting edge contacts the piece which will be less aggressive and easier to control. Hopefully I've been able to answer your questions clearly, If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask. Thanks! -Mike
I am more in metal turning. We never-ever touch the rotating part with finger or hand. First is hot, sharp and can grab you. Same with wood turnig, I presume.
We recommend leaving a bit of "slop" in the fitment of the lid to account for wood movement. One other option is re-chucking the lid and turning it down if the movement is excessive.
Here's a link to the wax and finish: woodturnerscatalog.com/products/dr-kirks-scratch-freee-woodturners-polishing-wax?_pos=1&_psq=scratch+fre&_ss=e&_v=1.0 woodturnerscatalog.com/products/tried-and-true-varnish-oil-finish?_pos=1&_sid=1c58d0a0c&_ss=r
This seems to be entirely too many operations, developing a surface and then reworking it! This would make too many opportunities to have an 'accident' with my arthritis, a touch of the tool or a nick. I think a better video would be to do one box entirely with a skew, another with a gouge and maybe another with a carbide metal insert brazed to a square bar. My lathe only has a faceplate and a spur center. Since it is just a cheap harbor freight that i pulled from the scrap pile, it is not very smooth running. This is way too overkill to get anything produced . I qould thi k the added mass of the base wiuld help a spice bowl from getting tipped over but you completely turned the chuck collar ( tenon?) away, only to recut the base. It was good to see how to use the gouges, but I dont have any. Couldnt make them either. Wouldn't trust harbor freight to have tools worth buying. I suppose i could return them if they were junk.
Your knowledge is awesome. But my comment points to safety. You are demonstrating a lot of dangerous habits. The spindle should always be stopped before you adjust the machine.
