Turning my EXPLODED 3d print into an awesome terrain piece 

The tiny little "ITZ DA GHAZGHKULL THRAKAAAA" was the cutest thing I've heard this month.

The sky mounted UV lamp makes fools of us all at least once

"I forgot there's a bloody big UV curing lamp in the sky" That is a wonderfully British thing, haha

Genuinely, I find this sort of thing the most interesting. Being creative and turning mistakes into "happy accidents" is a lot of fun to me, and something I'm more into than just assembling and painting official models.

Well I think what might have happened was that the inside was still completely uncured, because it had massive holes with thick walls enclosing it, there was no way for the uv to actually actually cure the inside of your models. The Shoulders look like they have been cured well because you can blast the surface from both sides. The torso fell apart because only the outside was cured and dried out. What I do with IPA is to wash it thoroughly and let it dry normally, no fan, just sitting out in the dark until its a bit more dry. Then I check it for any leftover resin and such. I have a curing station that has a magnetic attachment to my IPA container to cycle the Alcohol in a whirlpool. I think you need to do something similar by actually moving the washing liquid over the resin to get it to wash off. And of course, do everything in the dark, cure it well, and aim any hole you might have had for draining towards the light first to get the uv light into the deep inside of the print first and occasionally move your print around a bit. I cure for up to half an hour in my little UV machine and have yet to see a single print bust open on me. Another safety tip is to keep your cured bits on the windowsill, so they soak up some free sunlight just in case.

Love the upcycling. keep on keeping on. we learn every day.

"...now that I say that out loud...." If I had a dollar for every time I said that.... I feel your pain, Guy!

When printing hollow models, it's really helpful to run a small UV light inside the drain holes to cure the interior as well. Without the interior curing, you will often end up with explosions like you've had here.

TBF im fairly experienced with 3d printing and have printed a few titans at this point... and I saw you go to do your inital wash outside and though "huh, what an innovate way to vent the fumes"... not "you idiot"... seamed like a really good idea and I was scratching my head untill you talked to steve... wouldnt call that a rookie mistake... just trying new things.

You are way too kind dude. Thank you for the shout out. ❤

Yes, the video was really helpful Guy. While I can't yet get into 3D printing, your excellent terrain piece shows how even failures can be useful. When you took the print outside to clean it, I thought, "Good idea", but you've saved me from ever making the same mistake. Great video, thank you )O(

This is the kind of content I come for! Not the failures but the transparency of oops it didn’t go right how do you roll on from a mess up

I appreciate your principle in showing failure and potential pitfalls we all could face.

Love the fact you show your "experiments" warts n all! Great instructional video on "Ideas that sound good, but are really not". I didn't think of the outside cleaning being the issue either LOL. Great recovery though - and an awesome piece of unique terrain in the end. Cheers from Melbourne, Australia

Great video, love recycling in this hobby

I was just waiting for the realisation it was unintended UV exposure as this is nearly exactly how I messed up my first printed dreadnought 😂 I reckon you've definitely saved your viewers more than a few headaches and the terrain came out looking absolutely stellar. Honestly gives me a few ideas for my bigger misprints 😊 Keep the printing content coming, it can be invaluable to see someone getting into the hobby from scratch and anything midwinter is going to be entertaining as heck.

Awesome. Thank you for showing these steps. I would have done the same and never figured it out why, The terrain turned out great. Looking forward to the actual large chaotic mecha painting. Nice video. Keep up the good work.

super enjoy watching your journey through different mediums. Absolutely keep these videos coming!

Love the premise of the video, great execution and final result Keep up the great content Also please finish the heroquest series!!! I really love your take on the painting and I really like how you bring in one of the old models as well as the new! I have my original set painted and need to dedicate the time to painting my new version at some point

Something similar happened to me the first time I used a 3d printer, I placed my whole setup in my small yard, it was covered with polycarbonate, and I thought it was going to be enough to prevent the UV cosmic rays from curing my resin, but it was not, and at some point, almost all the resin in my tank got cured while I was removing my first print out of the plate, at the moment was scary and stressful, but now I know 3d printers are strong machines and failing is part of the fun. Just have fun and enjoy your printer, damaging one is hard, at least if you always make sure that there are no cured resin bits in your tank before printing. I invite you to try other resins, maybe the one you are using is not the best for you, it is something like paint brands, It is possible the one you are using works great for your friend, and without trying other resins is hard to know if the one you are using is really good or not.

Unfortunate mistake but (as of the time of watching) that's 40,000+ people who won't ever repeat it, so thanks for taking one for the team!

"We don't make mistakes, just happy little accidents" - Bob Ross

honestly, in my experience, water-washable resin is a lot of work for a slight convenience. If you want to avoid using alcohol for cleaning you can use an ammonia solution like Mean Green or other such cleaners, they don't give off as many fumes,although you will have to treat the bottle like bleach to keep it away from the children, no fumes but still bad to drink, works pretty damn good too.

Thanks for sharing your learning experience with us! I'm pretty new to printing as well (and also got all my printer recommendations from Ross, though not the same house-call concierge service 😁). One thing I've found is that I prefer to remove my supports before I even put the prints in the pickle bucket. In my experience doing so gives a double bonus of having less resin polluting my IPA as well as not trapping any liquid resin under the supports so the pickle bucket wash does a better job. Keep up the great content!

I feel the pain of big kit printing. Been printing a Lord of Skulls equivalent for a bout a week now. Ton of early stuff scrapped to layer lines or delamination. Only kept one delaminated part since the area is very small and should be fixable with some putty. Also not wanting to do a 10+ hour print again after already redoing several 8 hour prints.

The cracking is a big/hollow model problem. When resin cures it shrinks, how badly varies from resin to resin but I've seen ones the shrink by up to 5%. You can test this via printing a calibration cube, something that's like a centimeter cube and measure it coming off the printer then after curing. The issue is that when you cure the model the outside can shrink while the inside still wants to be the original size. This puts stress on the model and it can crack. The way to get around this is the biggest drain holes practical and then after curing it, shine a UV flashlight in it or get some UV string lights you can dangle in the cure the interior as well. That's also just good practice. I think it was EBay Model Rescues that ran into this with making some upgrade parts for a knight, was having issues with the dimensional accuracy because he was using a resin with a high shrink factor.

Had this issue this week, thanks for the wisdom!

EDIT: Made this comment at around 7:24. I fully agree with Steve on the subject. So my two cents here, and everyone can correct me if I'm wrong, I too am not infallible. 1) A rule of thumb for "water-washable resin"; if a single rinse doesn't completely clean it, either throw it in a vat(or US cleaner) with soapy water, or use isoproponol to clean them thoroughly. This will keep your prints from looking too grimy. In addition; who told you that water will dissolve your UV-hardened resin? Cuz that person needs to check the bloody acidity of their water, that ain't healthy. 2) You double cured your parts. NEVER double cure them. Cure them once in the chamber and if they ain't good then, leave them out for a while. The crack is a result from uneven hardening from the UV light. I don't know if the platform they were on rotates or not, but that might be something to keep in mind. Someone else also mentioned you need to put holes in hollowed parts; yes, but some of the cracked parts had holes in them. They just weren't properly cleaned out(see cent 1). Other than that, we've all been there with prints going awry. No shame in screwing up and working with it. As always, splendid video.

I had the same experience wirh water washable resin, its really hard to clean. The whole model was covered in a resin sludge and it looked soft. Which sucks because the IPA does really pump out the fumes. Apparently methalated spirits is less strong and works well.

Love how guy made the best of a bad situation. GG and thanks for the vid!

Hey... Can we just appreciate that Steve is basically the on call Tech Priest forMidwinter Minis xD

Honestly this is brilliant. Im glad to see that its not just me who makes printing mistakes and i learned how to deal with a problem ill likely bump into for the future. There are so many destroyed Lokhusts i printed that are sitting sadly in the corner like Sid's toys from Toy Story. Maybe ill bust them up and make some terrain

I like, nothing wasted!

I would suggest using one of those Airbrushing boothes with the built in Fan/Filter that has a window exhaust tube, run it next to your printer while its printing and should help with fumes.

5:03 thats the cutest wh fan ever

Used cat litter is the best basing material, totally agree.

The whole point is that if you are really a pro in 3D printing, you will never laugh at those who start. From my personal experience (and I think I can call myself a pro in the field of 3D printing), the 3D community is very kind and responsive.

The instant he said "so I took it outside" I knew what was gonna happen lmao, even the grey English skies can't stop those rays!

Nice save!!!!! Cool build 😊

Don’t get me wrong but this terrain piece video is better than another big model assembly. And very informative also about printing!😊

YESSS HES ACTUALLY DOING THE HOBBY AND MAKING MISTAKES AND LEARNING AAAAAGH YES GOOD CONTENT

Hi Guy... Thanks for the T-shirts and stickers. Gonna use them when i paint up some Old World

From the looks of things, not all of the resin drained from the hollows. Also, even though sunlight can cure resin, it isn't that powerful compared to the curing station. Whenever I've heard of people doing that, it normally takes hours of exposure to do it. UV exposure can weaken plastics, but even with things like ABS, that can take a little while, days or weeks. I think what's more likely is that the drainage holes didn't let all of the resin out and as the parts were heated by the blow dryer and the curing process (all of the resins I've heard about generate heat from the curing process, which can also speed it up in a lot of cases) it also heated up any air and fumes trapped in the parts, aka gas. There's something called the Ideal Gas Law. The equation that defines it is pV = nRT. p = Pressure V = Volume n = the number of moles of whatever gas you have in the volume R = the Ideal Gas Constant T = temperature To explain what's going on, I'm going to assume that n and R are both equal to 1 since they are both going to be constant. This leaves us with the following. pV=T And since the volume isn't changing, we can divide both sides by p to get: V = T/p So, if Volume doesn't change, what this tells us is that if the temperature goes up, the pressure will also go up. What happened is that the temperature was rising and increasing the pressure. This forced the resin out of any holes/cracks it could find, which is why you had uncured resin coating everything. When you went to cure it longer the pressure increased enough to crack the cured resin shell and split it apart. Incidentally, the Ideal Gas Law also helps explain why diesel engines work without spark plugs. They are compressing the air and aerosol diesel into a smaller volume. This increases the pressure and the temperature to a point that the diesel hits its ignition temperature. Anyway, that's what I think happened, and the solution is to make sure that all of your parts have properly sized and placed drainage holes if you're going to hollow them out. You'll also want to invest in a UV light that you can shine into the holes to cure the insides as well. Alternatively, you can split the shell into parts that are keyed so you can glue them together after curing, but you have to be careful of warping any thin walls. Just my two cents.

Hey man, idk if you'll see this, but i popped onto the newest video in the hopes you do. I just wanted to say I'm going through the same stuff as you, and it's so inspiring to see you keep on with your passion. Your channel has helped me a lot through tough times 💖

If the parts are hallow with no breathing holes then you have something called cupping which basically means as the part is pulled off the print screen it pulls a vacuum and can bugger it up. Also when you have finished washing, if the parts are still tacky then they arnt clean. What I do is. Rinse off in ipa to clean off the very worst of the resin then fizz them in cleanish ipa in the wash station. If parts come out of the washer still feeling tacky the the ipa in the washer isnt clean enough. One warning for hollow stuff though is that you will never get all the resin out! Make sure the holes are good and big so you stand the best chance to clean it or cure it. It happens, you didn't waste much. Live and learn and all that lol

Great to see you salvage something awesome and out of something disappointing! Keep up the good work

I have never thought that the sun can mess up a print that hard thank you for sharing!

One of my biggest hobby successes was having a print fail and turning it into terrain. It's always a great option to salvage a potential failure.

New favourite video unlocked

So cool. You are just awesome at what you do. I love this terrain Piece!!!😍

I did nearly the exact same thing when I was just starting to 3D print. Don't beat yourself up too much about it, it's all part of the journey!

@Midwinter minis: I had this happen too. The reason is two fold. If you are using water washable resin….DO NOT clean it with ANYTHING other than water. Especially depending on the resin. Some brands the alcohol actually starts to break down the outer layer of resin and you get that goopy melting look. JUST USE WATER!!! Additionally NEVER over cure models especially hollow ones and ones made of softer resins like water washable resin.

Well, if anything, this was a fun experiment! I'm glad to see the reuse of items like this as terrian. Also, the recent podcast you did with Pleasant Kenobi was amazing! I'm glad to see Vince getting active in the war gaming scene

One good trick to minimize the amount of hot glue wisps/strings is to give the gun a little twirl near the spot after putting some glue down. Imagine drawing circles in the air with a wrist motion. It might take a couple of twirls to do it, but the point is to get any excess hot glue out of the nozzle before moving on to another spot. It's a simple trick with what I've never had to do any wisp clean-up afterwards. :)

Y'know, I'm kinda happy that the print went tits up. Because thats an awesome terrain piece.

Great lesson mate

What works really well to mix resin is those small shower squeegees. They're a couple bucks, and won't scratch the FEP with the soft flexible end. Much better than fingers!

Great video Guy! I enjoyed the video and making terrain from failed prints is a great idea.

this is really good video, thanks! I bought same equipment and my main worry is the fumes as well. what ever way you manage to combat that, I would love to see the journey and results! I'm puting mine on apartmant building balcony with a vent and some sort of carbon filters or something in front of it.. but it's A project..

When I started printing a well over cooked my 28mm figs , ruined more than a few , I had to learn to dial back the curing to over a minute or two.

I don’t know this specific resin, but in my experience, hollow pieces printed with water washable resins tend to crack. Other resins, not as much. Again, just in my experience. But for sure the extra long curing time, plus the sun, were the main culprit

Hi love your videos KitbashCarnage hear at the age of 31 iv recently got back into the warhammer/kitbashing community agen after taking 15year brake to pay bills and so on . I have taken the leap head on and started a youtube channel along with Instagram, Facebook and Tiktok. It's hard with my dyslexia and not being as young as the others as this algorithm thing is somthing to get used to along with editing and so on but my love and the flame for my lost passion has been reignited more then ever and dont plan on stopping soon . Along with having lots of content plans and already in the pipeline and also a Revamp to all social media with new header picture and profile picture from a digital contractor I sorced I hope to just gain more traction to the community iv came back to . Regards KitbashCarnage

Good work as always guy

I love seeing mistakes, makes me feel better about my failures

For what went wrong, there might be two things I know of : - When you print a big piece that's hollowed, it need to have two holes in it so that the heat of the "curing process" can be properly evacuated, otherwise it crack your piece open. - You dried it too quick. The UV station is nice for little mini, but the big pieces are really tricky to dry without a crack, I personally let them cure on my window's border for a few day and not in a plastic bag, otherwise it will not cure. And as for what you did, I actually did that with an armiger's body that now serve as a nurglite foothold for my Castellan ^^

I just started my 3d printing journey about a year ago, and I ran into so many of the same problems with my large(and small) prints that I’ve taken a few months break from printing. This video and seeing someone who’s honestly such a legend in the 40k community make the same mistake was just the motivation I needed to get back at it, and I think I’ll take my first crack at it today 🫡

Weird suggestion, maybe print the replacement slightly larger so you can use this as apart of the base for it?

There's a lot of comments here and opinions that don't match up with my experiences resin printing so I'd like to leave my thoughts. To note I've been SLA printing for about 5 years now, using 5 different machines from the First Mars to Sonic Mega's. I have printed solid and hollow models from tiny little adventuring mice to knight proxies and greater daemons. I have never used water washable resin however, so will have to make some assumptions about that. I think the single biggest issue with what Guy did was to take them to the big curing light in the sky to wash them, second would (in my head) be washing water washable resin in IPA, that doesn't "feel" like a good idea in my head, but I could well be wrong there (I know someone admitting they could be wrong on the internet!) I have NEVER had an issue over curing models and creating tension on the outer layer causing cracking that's a new one for me and I've printed solid objects the size of A4 paper and 12mm thick. If I am printing a hollow model I do however then it drain and off-gas for a long time, like 24 hrs in a dark place with some airflow, and that's after a good couple of cleaning and draining cycles. I also try and use an airline to help remove pooling IPA/resin mix. In all, it can be a bit of a minefield, we all make mistakes, and depending on a huge number of factors print outcomes can be wildly different for people, so take this, and everything else you read as reference not fact, and learn from your mistakes.

'Did the first cure outside because nauctious' Hm, why didn't I think of that? 'For some reason I seem I seem to have half cured resin on all the parts.' Ooooooh I'm an idiot

The hack everyone misses is that you should print exclusively with clear or transparent resin. The second part is using ethanol instead of isopropyl. The third is adding 10% by volume acetone to your dunk rinse...

Enjoyed this! Thanks

I am planning on getting my first printer in the next couple of months. These videos are a life saver cos I know I would have done something just as foolish.

Also you should check out J3D techs Boxes of calibration for properly calibrating your printer, also I would recommend switching over to Sirya tech resin. Way higher quality.

Excellent Video, sometimes things just all go wrong and you need to make some terrain out of the ashes.

Will you be fully making that giant mech for your next video? I really wanna see how good it looks. I’ve been thinking of getting into 3d printing but I’m a poor college student atm

Don't worry about the UV lamp in the sky. In britain we only see it like 5 days a year

Great Share!

Could always print during the day and clean bits in the evening Or just use a higher SPF factor alcohol

The middle of your FEP will flex more than the edges. I'd tend to put larger things closer to the edge. You seem to have another couple of problems. There wasn't any space for the uncured resin to drain out. The cracking is more than likely to be caused by not leaving the model long enough to dry. The cured resin is also porous it takes quite a long time for all the solvent to escape. If you sure straight away the model then cracks as the rest of the solvents offgas.

going outdoors with uncured UV resin is always a disaster. I tried to quickly dash between the garage and the house with an uncleaned print bed and I could feel the resin harden around my gloves. It's difficult to remember that the cool LED space age printer and big fire ball in the sky actually make the same stuff.

That child is being raised right. WAAAGHH!

And good luck getting the final model printed!

Tip: don't always put tallest parts in the middle. as the middle of the FEP sheet will fade quicker and might cause quality lose over time on prints. Or worse, tear the FEP sheet

I don't use the UV curing boxes at all. IPA wash even though it sucks and air dry cure for 24 hours. yes it takes a long time but the resin will cure on it's own, even with very little to no UV. Slow curing is best.

Excellent lemonade, excellent video!

You're forgiven guy, it is still a cool terrain piece, but will we get to see the big mech next time?

3D printing is FREEDOM

No mistakes. Only happy little accidents.

In case its not come up in conversation/research already - water washable doesnt mean "can go down the sink" it's still pretty toxic stuff until its properly cured.

Not to wish it upon you but, would be awesome to see a new series of reconstructed failed prints, new installment each "failure"

I thought this was a really fun video. It was more of an adventure in mistakes, then teaching hobbycraft.

Note Guy when you print big hollow parts like legs or torsos with only a few holes for resin drainage, their insides stays in the dark quite soft and need curing to avoid that cracking. You better cure the inside before taking care of the outside with a small UV led wired to a 9V battery. It's small enough to get inside small holes and you don't need a lot of time to do it. As I know you're a french speaker, you can have a look as this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rDfd0url8hM.html

I'm on the "I'm never touching this ever" team, but you never know.

That partial cured goo is cuz u cleanes outside lol sun light = UV so curing light lol good lesson learned 😂

5:01 It's what you lot are here for, you're welcome.

If you need more Dark mechanicus models . I have a line I'm working on called Frankenstein's army on cults 3D

Behind every 3d print hobbyist is a pile of misprints that get recycled into terrain and basing... We've all done it

If you are using a water washable resin, do NOT dunk it into any kind of alcohol, unless manufacturer specifically permits it. Sun was probably the main culprit, but IPA probably didn't help.

NO FAILED PRINTS!

If you can't fit the crotch on the build plate are you even lifting bro? When life gives you lemons, make lemonade! great terrain piece!