Dude your videos are amazing the production quality and the content is so engaging I can't stop watching 😅 you've inspired me to get off my butt and start doing something similar. Looking forward to more videos from you! I know your videos take a LOT of time and preparation but that is what makes them so engaging! I would also love your advise on how you make your videos so engaging. I tried to make something of a teardown type video last night but it hasn't turned out quite as good as yours but I am camera shy and i would love it if you could have a look and give any advise on things I'm going wrong. Take care man keep trucking on. So glad you're making content again. Ed
Thanks very much! I'd say to make a video engaging you need to really dive into the topic, show things clearly, and plan what you're going to say beforehand. It's usually going to be too complicated to talk without a script unless it's something you're particularly skilled at.
I was thinking the same thing! Who needs a softbox if you can dim these strips? I'm not sure about that. (the dimming part) Also, these would have been great for matting negatives back in the day!
"Oh no ! I aCciDenTaLy broke my tv !" Well as said you can find some of those smashed tv in a recycling center. It might feel relaxing to smash a tv and reuse it for that kind of project though 😁
Yesterday I showed this video to my parents and my dad said he saw a TV on the side of the road. Today we just picked it up and disassembled it. I'm very happy right now.
Or buy a plexiglass... Few led strips.. Sand the plexiglass to spread the light... Bam... Done.. I initially thought all the parts were inside the TV.. Meaning no money spent.. Not the case so...
illidur He explicitly stated his reasons in this video. For studio lights you really should go for led strips with high cri ratings, even more so than in his use case as artificial sunlight.
Being a vampire, I am amused. Though, this would not actually confuse. Artificial light does not typically affect vampires. It is the sunlight itself that does due to all that is in it. Some forms of artificial light can affect vampires though, but I'm not telling.
I made one of these false windows over the past week for my window-less kitchen, works great! Found some white led strips that let me change the colour temperature too, so good. Thanks for the guide, you're the best!
I know this is a pretty old comment, but this has got me thinking you could connect this up to a clock to have the colour temp/brightness change through the day for even more realism.
Why do you said that here on youtube? Can you give me your email, please? I am doing the same thing, i have an hangar, and i have a very powerful thing to show you
I actually did this and had mixed results. One crucial detail is that the LED:s needs to line up perfectly with the acrylic layer, otherwise the light wont spread evenly. On my tv, there was a metal "footplate" that sort of lined up the acrylic against an angle where the original LED:s where mounted. I stupidly threw that away, only to find that I had a really hard time lining up the new LED strip. Also, the light was fine when the light was lying on the table, but when I lifted it to mount it on a wall, the acrylic layer moved and the light became much dimmer. Oh well.
I had a broken 50-inch TV and I thought I could follow your footsteps, I loved the outcome of your video - good job! Unfortunately looking closer I realized the screen and LED’s in my TV is sandwiched between two glass panels and factory glued, had to change the direction of my video/project making in to a wall art, it came out better than I expected. Thanks for the inspiration!
The "LEDs, sandwiched between two glass panels and factory glued", is NOT what this is about. Throw that section away. This tutorial is about the "BACKLIGHTING LEDs". These are BEHIND the RGB LEDs that make the image. Two different things
This is kinda what I was thinking. A few trash bin TV/monitors are not hard to find, even here in the philippines. A brief rework like this would make some great video lights, assuming they're bright enough!
Just finished making this (albeit mine is a little more bootleg than yours.) I'm a nightshift worker and this will help me out during long nights on my off days. Thank you so much for all the in-depth tutorials you've made over the years.
The emphasis this man always has on PROPERLY recycling all the unused pieces is amazing, a lot more people who scavenge parts for cute projects like me need to be more consistent on recycling instead of just trashing what’s not used
Might have been worth clarifying that this only goes for LCD screens -- I can picture a few viewers being disappointed when they attempt to disassemble a broken plasma or OLED screen... ;-)
@@peppigue It's an LCD screen. Liquid crystals do not emit light, but instead absorb it. Think of an old-style digital wristwatch. It has a greenish background and the numbers come up in black when the crystal is activated. An LCD TV or computer display is similar, but instead of each crystal element being black, it lets through one colour -- red, green or blue. But... You can't see the LCD image without adding light. On your old watch, the background was reflective, and you used incoming light. Original GameBoys did the same thing. Even the GameBoy colour did, but the result was very washed out colours. To get decent colours and contrast on an LCD display, you need to add a backlight that shines white light through the LCD panel from behind. Originally this was done with some kind of fluorescent panel, but nowadays we use LEDs and the diffuser and fresnel lens you see in the video. An OLED display doesn't have a backlight, because each subpixel is an LED that emits its own light, so you don't have anything behind it (which is why laptop screens can now be so thin).
@@gabriela9044 That's an LED panel. A TV or monitor being LCD or LED doesn't refer to the backlight, but the way the colours (images) are created. If you look at the technical specifications of LCD monitors, you can oftentimes see the line: "LED backlit", but it's still an LCD monitor.
I've watched this video several times just because I enjoy the high production values, and I just noticed around 7:34 Matt pulled the LED strips out of, what I assume, a magical portal.
Haha, the second time you see that scene you can also see him smirking and almost getting distracted by his own cleverness. He looks like he wants to start giggling just a little bit, which is ok because I do too. :)
Correct me if I’m wrong, but if you bought bi-color led strips to install as the backlight and wired up the appropriate controls, you could simulate the orange light from twilight and sunset. Imagine programming a realistic daylight cycle with an arduino...
Do LEDs have a flicker rate? If so that may interfere with the film or video camera’s frame rate. If LEDs have a very high flicker then it probably wouldn’t be a problem
@@brobinson8614 Evidently they don't, because there's no flickering present in this video. I've aimed cameras directly at my computer monitor in the past without any flickering at 30 FPS.
Now I wish someone will make a living out of this and save screens from old computers and TVs and sell these ‘windows’ on Etsy. Would be So amazing! Thank you so much for this truly amazing video!
like the bottles to drinking glass work shops/kits from a while back. Or a PV 12v diy lighting system for folks who don't have a grid. And a method to adapt Fresnel lens to diy solar cooker to reduce firewood consumption.
I just use the original LEDs and monitor power supply. You just have to figure out which pin controls the on/off function (it won't turn on without the media board otherwise) and then wire up your own switch for that. The plug is a bit less discrete doing this but you don't have to separate diffusion layers or worry about what kind of lights are in it either, let alone replace them.
Wow, to think that CoeLux Artificial Sunlight panels cost upwards of $30,000 USD. I would love to see these types of panels integrated into more spaces. They are fantastic, thank you!
i think a FLOALT has now lens and to me it doesnt look very convincing as it produces a bit to few lumen per squaremeters. but i fear that this is definitely the same issue with these monitors - if you keep the original lighting!
I just google the specs of IKEA's Floalt. "The colour temperature can be switched between 2200 Kelvin (warm glow), 2700 Kelvin (warm white) and 4000 Kelvin (cool white)." So it's still not close to day light. Not to mention that there's no information regarding the CRI (Colour rendering Index). Which here in his project he used a superior one that delivers a CRI 97 light, close to the natural light. Also I don't see on the website's description that says anything about the LENS, so it's only a diffusion panel before the LED? Therefore it doesn't give the false window effect. I"m guessing that IKEA's FLOALT it's just a regular LED panel with wireless control. Which is totally different from this project.
Just built one of these with a broken monitor I had laying around, my execution wasn't as clean as yours, but it should still be helpful on dreary days, and it was a good first step into working with LED strips. My monitor had an LED array like the one you showed in the video, and I found that the alignment between those LEDs and the glass/plastic panel had a big impact on how well light spread across the panel, I think those micro dots are intended to reflect light internally and their geometry is likely calibrated to work with the light source being right on the edge of the panel (maybe this varies between panels). Unfortunately the stock LED array is a lot thinner than the LED strips, and the LEDs are mounted length-wise while LED strips usually mount them along the short edge. So it's difficult to get the LEDs to line up properly with the panel. I ended up using some little silicone pads* between the layer of white plastic/paper and the glass/plastic panel to boost it up a bit higher, making it align better with the LEDs. This was much better than when I just had the panel laying flat against the metal frame, but it's still not perfect because the panel isn't perfectly rigid, and even the slight sags between pads noticeably effect how much light spreads in the panel. it should be possible to 3d print some brackets that would hold all the parts in perfect alignment, though the design would have to be adjusted to the exact dimensions of the parts you're working with. I might play around with that approach if/when I take another swing at this using monitor parts like this. *: the type you'd put under a small countertop appliance to keep it from slipping around
It's a prism sheet designed to reduce total internal reflection. They increase efficiency by helping to extract light. This is why LEDs come in little globes. The curvature is a product of optical research.
I did this. Thank you. A few observations: In my case I got a 55 inch Cisco monitor from an auction. It was quite a bit of work to get it apart, because of course there are clips and screws and glue and so on, and I didn't have (and few people would) a repair manual. I noted that the original LEDs were horizontal so that they aligned with the Perspex sheet edge. The replacement LEDs you recommended were vertical and about half of each led was outside of the edge, and thus a portion of the light would be lost. I also had to pack the back to bring the Perspex sheet up to the new level of the LEDs. Aligning them is a big issue, so if it is possible to use the existing LEDs that would be much better, but then of course you have the issue of the power supply. Also the wiring of the original LEDs was minute and probably outside of my skill level to solder. The Cisco monitor luckily had a metal frame and a metal backing which are screwed together. Using longer screws allowed me to use them both with the wider LED strips. Lastly at 55inches it was quite big, and without the liquid crystal layer there is nothing much holding the thin diffusion sheets in. I was planning on using it as an overhead work-table lamp, and I'm worried it will sag and come out of the frame.
I used to take apart these kinds of TVs and computer monitors at a recycling center and I never got a chance to inspect each film layer so it’s cool to be able to know what some do. And he’s right, be careful when taking apart the florescent bulbs! We had to dispose of them in a separate container.
I can see this channel being a show on the Home channel. It's so professional But keeping doing what you're doing. Mainstream media takes away from the wholesomeness
I am SOOOOO glad you revisited this topic. I had big trouble getting the panels I already have powered up because of the starter signal. But it did not cross my mind for a second to simply REPLACE the LEDs. THANKS, mate! Finally able to finish this project.
if you wanted to, you could possibly add light sensors and place them outside, so at different times of the day, it will apply different voltages to the light.
Also there's an add-on in home assistant that can sync to sunset and sunrise times. I think it's 'adaptive lighting'. I wonder if this videos idea could be modified to be colour temperature aware
CCFL = Cold Cathode Fluorescent Light CFL = Compact Fluorescent Light CFL is a twisted heated cathode tube with built in ballast (driver). These are two similar technologies, but they should not be confused.
It's a dim and gloomy November thus far, and I'm already feeling despair. Fortunately, my son just cracked our flat screen! I've never been so filled with hope and joy over a damaged appliance!!
I saved your tutorial to test at a later time, that time was today. I received my LEDs in the mail and promptly installed the appropriate length in a damaged screen as per instruction, amazing results!! Thanks a lot!!
Hi Matt, coming back to this video after a few and just want to mention a couple of things: - the "lens" layer is actually a collimating film, not a Fresnel layer - you don't find the collimating film as a separate layer as the functionality is integrated in the display panel itself on most modern displays.
Hey! Are you saying this collimating film is the material that gave the light its linear trajectory, and reduced diffusion? Is there a place I could buy this collimating film?
@@benthompson8683 Personally I couldn’t find any place where you could purchase these films, and not to the size and quality you find in monitors or TVs. What I do is that I follow the 2nd hand market and get old TVs and monitors from there and scavenge for them.
This is a absolutely great video! As a electrician that is constantly dealing with customer demands this will be a huge selling point for me! I already try to fix tvs that im constantly finding and can't resist picking up. And i do low voltage LED lighting for under counter lights constantly on the new houses i do i can add this to my repertoire! Thank you for the info and the creative idea! 😎
Idea: could you use the TV’s original bezel to cover up the edges in addition to the tape and as a replacement to the aluminum frame that Matt used here? This would depend on how thin the bezel is and/or how thick or old the original TV was.
I may have missed it in the video, but make sure your LED strips use SMD5050 (~22 lumens) or SMD5630/5730 LEDs (~50 lumens) if you want something bright. Unfortunately, my experiment didn't turn out so well because of low lumen LEDs (SMD3528, ~8 lumens).
Also, it's worth noting that he uses non-waterproof LED light strips. I'm not sure how much difference it makes, but the outer coating on the waterproof strips would definitely scatter the light in non-optimum directions.
Great video about recycling an old broken TV :) You might also be able to salvage other electronic components for other uses, for example most modern TVs tend to have relatively good speakers (10W is quite common), so these speakers can be hooked up to a suitable audio amplifier. Older TVs (with larger enclosures) also have good sounding speakers.
Yeah, they can be very similar, however, make sure you add an extra protective layer on top, preferably something that doesn't dim or diffuse the light and add a little structure behind it. In use drawing tables can get pretty messed up. First the extra layer will protect the softer plastics underneath and also will be easier to replace whenever it's damaged. I'd recommend something like a transparant hard type of acrylic. Or perhaps scratch resistant glass, however, that could be very costly and hard to get in the right shape/size. The structure you have to add depends on the size of your screen, bacause you will be pressing on the surface, the larger the size the more it will bend/warp wherever you press, you don't want that when you're drawing and you also don't want to risk damaging any layers of the panel.
@@ronaldvanderkooi7410 well yeah i think they meant to do that, ig its kinda sad people can have so little common sense to realize that without being told and therefore this comment existed lol
You, my friend are a true inspiration. You're enthusiasm is truly infections, and I'm learning tonnes from your presentation style. As an electronics engineer, I can't fault your analysis, and I tip my hat to you for encouraging re-use as well as recycling of e-waste. You're doing a great thing for the planet, and inspiring others to do the same.
From the explanation to building and the problems encountered + the solution. Linking the link to find the products. And not to mention the quality of the videos. This man is doing a GREAT job.
I've just made one out of a huge broken 55" lcd tv. Don't take the top diffuse layer off because the fresnel layer is pretty fragile and gets scratched easily. I noticed that leaving it on doesnt make much a difference on the daylight effect and gives additional protection to the panel.
you had to take it off to get the LEDs in though right? and then you just put it back on? also how many strips did you add to get that big of a screen illuminated?
My house is an open floor plan with a fairly high ceiling. I love a bright sunny living room but mine is dull because of the window arrangement. I would love to install a skylight, but it's impractical because I have a small attic. I'm seriously going to look into making a faux skylight this way. I know it will improve the look of my living room tremendously! Thanks for this idea!
Making these DIY light fixtures from old, broken TVs sure beats the pants off recycling them! Also,if you use RGB LED strips you can light up your environment in any color you wish!
I used those panels to make an indirect light growhouse. My sequoia giganteums are not made for direct sunlight and my balcony is facing into direct south direction. So far they are doing pretty well.
I got a 50 inch TV that was tossed out. I just took out the cracked screen and front filters. Put it all back together and hung it up. So I'm using the original electronics with power cord and the power buttons. Love the light it gives me. I don't mind that it's a couple inches thick. Took me about an hour and it was done. Be looking for more. 😁😁
Thanks to you I will be buying cheap broken electronics now for lights rather than buying super expensive studio lighting which doesn't even work as well as these.
This looks to be such an awesome project, but sadly I've ran into an issue with my attempt at it. My U2312HM broke, so of course I tried this project. It's got the Fresnel lens, the diffusion layers, and is edge-lit. But from the side, which vastly reduces the amount of light it can output. The length of the light is 30cm, and even with a 1900 lumen/meter light cable, it's a measly 570 lumens, distributed over 1500 cm^2. (still a whopping 3800 cd/m^2). For comparison, a top-edge lit variant would've yielded 60% more light output! An additional thing is that the panel is quite thin - LED strips just don't line up with the dotted plastic panel and also cause some light loss. Something to keep in mind if you're selecting a panel - look for top-edge lit panels.
I know it's been a year, but I'm thinking that since you're not using the original LEDs can't you just use either stronger LEDs or place them differently?
Is there a industry name for that Fresnel layer? I would like a really big one . (1m x 0.5m) All I could find were small finished products. Edit - some suggested names: 'The thing is called "prism film" or "prism sheet".' - superdau, 83hjf 'prismatic film' - Wim Braber 'Brightness Enhancement Film' or BEF
It is no Fresnel lens, it's just a polarizing filter. There are two - one behind and one in front of the LCD layer. The first one only lets light with certain polarization through. Then it passes through the liquid crystal layer which either polarizes it perpendicularly or lets it pass unchanged, then it gets either blocked or let through by a second filter on top.
Found a broken TV in a dumpster so I'm going to make one of these. I have problems with seasonal depression and a big light panel with bright, natural light sounds ideal. Thank you!
I did that but in the other way, i created this with a slider, when it's daytime i will slide it down, and when it's night and i need light, i'll just slide it up, i added a automatic switch on it so i don't need to be bothered when to turn off/on when needed. Also thanks for this great idea! thanks! ;)
That is a great idea. If you're savy with that stuff it's definitely possible. I am thinking either wire them all together to the pi or you could even use a WiFi chip on each light to control not only the switch but also the color wirelessly via a program on the raspberry pi. Then it's just a matter of writing a small program similar to f.lux that reads from a databank to determine you local sun up and down reference databank and changes colorvalues according to the time of day.
@divorcedme You're missing out on some awesome DIY projects. I would advice you to pick up an Arduino Uno (or an Arduino Nano if you prefer small and cheap controllers) and start experimenting. The WiFi chip you should probably use is an ESP-01 or a Wemos D1 Mini. They're programmable with the Arduino software, but I can't recommend it as your first microcontroller.
absolutely amazing video, your whole channel in general makes youtube about 300% better as a platform, and I definitely intend on finding some old monitors and getting myself some artificial daylight in the future!
Make sure to use truly flicker free led drivers. Be it constant current or constant voltage. Else you may risk building a headache while boosting your energy levels....
Wim Braber There’s a shop in my town I literally can’t go in cause it’s entirely lit by flickery leds and I get a migraine everytime. It’s a shame cause it’s a good shop!
This gave me a really genius idea for a gaming room just go to the dump get a bunch of old flat screen TVs and take out the components you need and a build colour changing ceiling it'll look so good especially with the light being so soft
Cold cathode TVs work absolutely amazing for this (the first generation of flatscreen LCD tvs. OLED won't work, and LED LCD will be inconsistent among models.
@@kpennett yes. You have very great build power supply which can easy handle the LEDs. My was 205V. Definety better than you will probably use otherwise. 🙈
This is freaking amazing. I'm making one of these with my old monitor right now. Unfortunately it has these fluorescent pipe thingies inside, but I ordered me some RGB LED strips with power supply included. Hope this will work!
