Entah kenapa pertama kali lihat d64 ini senang aja, padahal sudah ada d12.. penasaran aja soalnya saya pernah lihat di yt d12 dibuat adventure tanpa ganti chassis.. diff yg agak" pak.. kalau diff nya dibuat lock mungkin bisa tapi ya ga seenak yang basicnya adventure.. nyangkut terusssss 😅😅😅.. sehat dan sukses selalu biar selalu upload ya pak.. salam
I did similar but way less cutting and just single-speed 4x4, body lift with some computer standoffs same tires but I cut them into boggers I also added weight to the frame nice and low to lower the center of gravity for less tipping. I like the 2 speed trans in yours better though
Been wondering what to do with my Kei truck go low or high inspired me to go high as it's so fun off road probably won't go as far as you but still keep it driftable great video like your attention to detail 👌
After the lower arm is straightened by the fire, will the height of the front of the car become higher? Will the ball head position end affect the smoothness of the putter when turning left and right?
At least you cut the torsion bar set up correct on it you know that the four-wheel drive chassis of the Toyota one will fit under this and it would still keep this 1/10 scale because of what the car is based on.
Can I ask... I am new to my D12 that came with a 1200mAh 7.4V battery. I'm slowly modifying to all metal suspension and drive train and 370 motor with metal trans. All electronics are stock however. I need to ask a few things to get to the next step. I want to put a roof mounted light bar on it and I see some unused plugs on the controller board. Can any of them be used for powering the light bar? And will I be able to use the stock radio or will I need one with more on-off power switches? I also hear the 370 motor I've ordered may overload the controller with a stock battery, but not sure if my uprated battery will solve that (if it is in fact a real issue)? Lastly, are there specs for front-end alignment?. My D12 is a bit too darty and no matter how well I trim, steering doesn't always come back to 0. The joints are not bound up at all and everything is locktighted. just alignment needs more tow or sompthin. Any help is appreciated. I am more dangerous than knowledgable here! PS. I'm asking these same questions on several D12 vids hoping to get answers, so sorry if you see this more than once in your YT D12 travels.
The additional ports on the factory board do output power however it may be too low for a light bar, The larger motor will indeed add more load onto the system, even with its stock motor if strained enough the stock system will momentarily cut out and then rearm. A good way is to simply replace the factory radio system, doing so will also require an ESC but will allow for much greater power delivery to power the motor as well as any accessories. The lights could then be plugged either into the receiver or the plug from the ESC battery wires. For the steering I would only suggest making sure that everything is bolted up with correct geometry, such as having the servo horn in the middle of the main steering mechanism and keeping all rod ends the same length on each opposite side. Hope that helps.
NEED HELP WITH MY D12: I upgraded my D12 to all metal chassis, 370 motor and metal trans and upgraded suspension. If I put any kind of load on the motor, either the radio completely loses its signal to the truck (headlights flash) until I re-bind OR the truck suddenly loses signal until I stop the load w/o making me re-bind It does not do this at all if I have no load on the truck by holding it off the ground. This is real annoying and I'm wondering if I was supposed the remove the capacitor off the old 260 motor and solder it onto the 370? Any ideas why it's doing this? BTW... I'm asking this question on several D12 videos so sorry if you see my question elsewhere. I'll try to remove it when this issue is resolved.
I believe it is a case of the factory electronics kicking into failsafe. The stock WPL electrics do cut out if a high amp draw is detected, with all of the additional weight the stock electrics are simply kicking into failsafe and rearming. Best thing to do would be to provide a new electronics package, those would consist of a receiver and ESC. Hope that helps.
Indeed, However, doing so will also lower the front suspension, In addition, with the greater majority of the weight above the front wheels, I prefer having a stiffer spring.
Glad to hear you got it working, I had a similar issue once I assembled the front suspension. The wheel alignment would go all over the place when compressing the suspension. All worked nicely after adjusting the length of the steering links.
Correct, I straightened out the factory bend in the middle of the arms, I then bent the outermost part where the hub bolts onto the end of the arm to help keep the suspension geometry straight. Hope that helps.
That's unlucky, How much of a vertical difference is there between the rear and front? If it may be of any help, I would inspect the following, Check if enough material was filed down from the main chassis under the upper-arms as that portion prevents them from going lower, Take a look at the adjusted lower arms and see if any of them are binding the suspension up and preventing it from going lower, Also inspect the ball ends the upper-arms as well as lower control arms attach to making sure those are also free to move throughout the entire suspension travel, Hope that helps.
Nice build, this was some good inspiration for my D42 build, I just ordered the 2 speed motor, V3 and some C14 wheels and tyres. Do you plan to go 4x4 down the road since you already got the possibility with that motor?
Hi, Thanks, For this specific chassis, I do not, it will stay rear wheel driven, I do however want to tackle a 4x4 variant in the future, either adapting the original chassis to accept a front axle or fabricating a new chassis based on the factory one.
@@ThatTinyTruckGuy That sounds like a good plan, I think I saw someone fit the C24 frontaxle to the chassis.I guess I'm going to see how it performs first before thinking about any 4x4 conversions
It does indeed, Both the stock axle as well as the metal upgrade kit are locked. WPL also offer small differential units if you want to run an open diff. Hope that helps.
The emblems are by AMPro Engineering, You can get them on Shapeways, www.shapeways.com/product/E5GUMNHWV/d12001-04-wpl-d12-suzuki-carry-emblem-set?optionId=198817325&li=shops, Hope that helps.
That would depend on the suspension kit, If you would go with the metal kit WPL make then I am not 100% certain as those arms are straight in that kit, If you however were to get the metal versions of the stock arms then yes, All you will need to do is bend/straighten them out to the same shape as the stock plastic arms. Hope that helps.
Indeed, WPL makes a full metal upgrade kit that fully replaces the stock plastic axle and driveshaft. Here is an affiliate link to it if you want to check it out, I believe they also have a metal gear upgrade set for the stock transmission. www.wpl-rc.com/collections/d-series/products/rear-axle-metal-upgrade?ref=ThatTinyTruckGuy
Hi, All that was needed in order to lift the rear axle was to change the leaf spring mounting position. Out of the factory the leaf springs are mounted underneath the axle, all you need to do is to mount them on top of the axle. Hope that helps.
Hi, I simply took the wheels and tyres that came on the WPL C44 and bolted them on, here is an affiliate link to where you can find them. www.wpl-rc.com/collections/c44-parts/products/tires-v3?ref=ThatTinyTruckGuy
