Just a bit of an update: I plowed 6 inches of snow in my driveway the other day in high range with my 6 foot plow mounted on my loader. The tractor went from struggling to climb hills to a power house. It makes that much of a difference
any ballpark idea on the HP the PTO is putting out now? Wondering what range of attachments you might be able to run following the "upgrade". Thanks for the video! @@upstategearheads
About how many turns did you end up screwing it out? I see it has been a year or more since you have down this modification. Could you give us an update.?
Just did this to my 2620 and it made a huge difference! Thanks for the video and the tip on unscrewing the nut off after removing the front piece was really helpful, I just held the screw so it wouldn't turn from factory setting while unscrewing the nut and then sawed it in the vice. Thanks!
Right on. Now you just need to show how to boost up the hydralic pressure for the loader/system on a 2610. I have the same tractor, and had the hp boosted a couple years ago, but want my hydralics up a bit too, but can not find a "how to" anywhere.
Its always smart to have a EGT gauge after doing things like this imo. The good thing about "old school" diesels in the reliability. I've taken apart ones that have set for 10+ years, cleaned then up, and they run great.
Thank you so much for this video man I just did mine @ 105 hours and now it’s night and day. I’m also in upstate NY near Plattsburgh I use a 6’ brush hog and can’t wait to try it since the upgrade I know I can use high range now up the hills near my property. Thanks again!
You adjust timing by the shims under injector block on the pump. It equate 1 degree per one hundred thousands thickness. So removing the .150 shim would ad 1.5 degrees of timing. Just some info.
Thank you for taking the time to make and upload this video! Is there anything you can say about this being 2 years later? Have you experienced any issues or damage? I know people say the timing is not the same so when you turn up the fuel, it may not compensate. I don't know that to be true or not, please fill me in. If you have any tips I would APPRECIATE it SOOOO MUCH. :) Anything you would have done differently?
I did it to my CK2610 the other day. I ended up having to turn it out (counterclockwise) 4 turns. It is like night and day on the power difference. You notice it right away when you rev it up, it's not delayed and it isn't sluggish on the hills anymore.
What dealer i m also in pa and looking to have this done and do they adjust the timing as well some people say the timing has to be adjusted as well as the fuel?
Hoover Tractor in Mifflinburg PA , (High Volume Kioti Dealer) Dwight-(Salesman) told me his Service guys do it for their Customers After 1st... Service- (50hrs) & they also Have a Dyno in their shop to set it up
@@rod7048 Just happened to stumble across this video after buying my new 2620 from Hoover last week. Lol. I’ll be asking them to do this for me at my 50 hour service!! Appreciate the info!
well , I just did my ck2510. seems to really be better. if advancing the timing helps like some say, this thing will be awesome. it actually seems to have even less rattle in the engine.
I too have a CK2510H (2014). Did you do this? and did you change the timing? I'm not familiar with diesel engine tuning. Any help would be appreciated.
I'm very interested in this project. Can't wait to hear your end user results. Did you get the power you had hoped for? I sure hope so, good luck and please keep us posted! We're on the edge of our 2610 seats awaiting results!
@@upstategearheads so you turn the screw counter clockwise to get more power, correct? I just bought a CT2025 and was wondering if it would be the same on it
Did this to my 2610 yesterday, thank you for this! The results are night and day, High gear is actually useable now and PTO power is up substantially. Went through some 4ft grass with a 60” rotary cutter at full speed in Medium gear and it just shredded it no issue. Previously I had to slow to almost a crawl. Also charges right up my 30-35 degree hill in Medium without issue.
I spent some time with my Deere LX6 brush hog this week and can run full speed in medium range as long as it's not crazy tall. Certainly gets the job done quicker which means more money in my pocket!
I've always owned used tractors prior to 1993. I always had pretty good luck with older tractors. In 2018 I bought my very first John Deere 3025. I wanted to stay below the emissions that didn't require DPF and/or regen cycles. My 25 HP Deere ir the wimpiest tractor I've ever owned. Hydraulics are useless and the loader barely will pick up 500lbs.. I'm tempted to try this.
You must of Realy liked that Green paint. Those 2025e's & 3025e's are pure "wimps". The are just 2 steeps up from a shovel & wheelburo. With their measly 2 speed "al-u-minium" hydro-slack-o-howl-a-matic "watch-gear" transmission ( if you can call it that), and it's super week hydraulic system with its "lawnmower grade" hydraulic lift cylinders. The small "M" & "R" series are just OK. The "E's" are strictly marketed to the "first time home-loaner" ;-- just full of "creature-comforts".
This is the kind of info I probably don't need to see. Who doesn't like more power?! Earned a new sub for the info. Thanks and looking forward to more tractor vids. Does the increased power also effect the loader lift capabilities?
Does turning up the ck2610 increase the top speed in line with the 3510 and 4010? I know on paper the 3510 and 4010 go ~5 mph faster than the 2610. Wasn't sure if this was horsepower related or limited elsewhere is the system?
Very nice video, I also have a 2610 so I am very interested to know if you gained the extra horse power you thought you would gain. On your next video will you turn up the hydraulics pressure?
Subbed. I definitely can use this like this for my 2610. Just a little gun shy to tinkering with mechanical shit. Don’t have the best luck with motors.
Sorry but it’s not clear to me from what was said in the video… do you think there’s a way to get the cap off without cutting it? Or if you do cut it, is there a way to replace it with a new part after the adjustment? It’s not clear if it’s crimped on or captured some other way.
i have a 2022 TYM T494 with a mechanical fuel injection KUKJE A2300 engine it is used in 474 494 and 574, (the 574 has a turbo and adds 6-7 hp) do you know anything about bypass on DPF? they say you have to unplug a data logger. I'm over 100 hours with no Regen yet. I guess I will let her use the DPF untill warranty is up or the DPF plugs or burns out. just getting my ducks inline. PS does KIOTI/daedong make a mechanical fuel injection engine in the 50 hp range? are you in upstate NY? I'm in Cooperstown area.(Canadarago lake). PPS I did have a NX4510 2021 but it was a COVID tractor and I got a bad tranny (like Dylan mulvainy) lol!
Would be nice to have some sort of remote adjustability on that, tune it as more power is needed but, leaving it near stock for better economy when possible.
Yup, it's made a huge difference. I run high range while mowing all the time now and I can run my 6' brush hog through thick grass much faster without it bogging down
This engine was originally 35 HP. When the emissions laws took effect, Kioti needed to make anything above 26 HP computer controlled for re-gen purposes. So instead of scraping this engine, they simply turned the fuel down to reduce its power. Diesels don't work like a gas engine. There's no throttle blade limiting intake air. The throttle only controls the amount of fuel in the engine. More fuel equals more power. Eventually you'll reach the point of diminishing returns and can go too rich, hence why you see some diesels spit the black smoke. As the fuel increases though, so does the exhaust gas temperature. Typically everyone just adjusts the fuel limit until you get a hint of faint black smoke and then turn it back half a turn to play it safe
Very cool video I’m getting my ck 2610 next week it’s borderline power for what I need in pto power running a chipper and stump grinder was wondering if you knew if it would increase the Hp power at the pto as well?
I believe so but I'm honestly not sure. Lots of mechanical diesels like that use a similar injection pump so I would imagine there's some sort of fuel control with it
I have the same tractor and agree it is underpowered! Do you think that cap could come off if I pried between the gap at the end of it and the block? Is there something like an indent that prevents it from coming off? Thanks for the video!
@@upstategearheads Thank you for the reply. I did the adjustment a couple days ago. Literally like night and day difference. Thanks for posting the original mod!
Similar, but the 35 and 40 are computer controlled and use a much different style injection pump. I'm sure it's possible to turn it up but would have to be done with some sort of dealer programing
I'm doing this to my Bobcat 2025. I don't care about the warranty, engine is easy to work on, like everything else on this tractor. All that emmition just makes things worse
It's made a night and day difference in the tractor. Sure, you could buy a 35hp instead of turning up the 25, but it's a few thousand dollars extra and no DPF
@ryangreenley4818 I'd been digging into this. - Haven't looked into the coyote. I've been research the bobcat which from what I understand is the same. On the Bobcat. They actually don't have a way to error out if the flow is "too free flowing". And they don't regenerate based on "time " alone.. The only time they regenerate and spray fuel into the filter as if it senses restriction from being clogged. Once the problem is "cleared " it won't Spray fuel to regenerate the filter..
@@tomhopkins6758 All I got is what I see in the software, I know they CAN be deleted via software, but I haven't seen anything else that holds up as it is looking for pressure changes in the filter at the very least, but there is triggers like time in there as well.
That "clanging & banging" that old school mechanically injected diesels make is FROM the slight pre-detonation of the almost full fuel charge before top dead center. Common-rail high-pressure common-rail computer controlled systems precision adjust for Maximum power & fuel efficiency resulting in near " gasoline sounding " profomance ; = 30% more Power for the fuel Used! My "old-school " tractor is a fuel-guzzing "black& grey" smoke belching-rattling hog;-although very reliable. The new Massey-Ferguson 1736m power-shuttle, & Kubota MX5200 shuttle shift transmission are both EXTREMELY Quiet Fuel Efficient.
if your worried about warranty, the option is always there to just buy a new tamper proof cap. they're like 10 bucks. with the cap back on theres not a really an easy way for a dealership to know you messed with the rack adjustment. kioti part #: E6305-54421 or bobcat part #: 7380013
Really enjoyed your video, i also have a 2021 2610 se cab , absolutely love it . Please reply to me what more power does for this tractor, will it make it go faster in low , will it be able to get up a hill in midrange or high , cause mine won’t. So i Iike the more power idea but you never stated what it does ?
It won't increase the speed since that's directly related to engine RPM, which you don't want to increase. Increasing the fuel and hence the power will give you more pulling power before the tractor bogs down
I found the tag on my engine it's a Daedong 3A165LWD. The ck2610 comes with a Daedong 3A165LWM-U. Not sure what the differnce is between the lwd and lwm-u
I have a Kioti CS2220 that appears to be set up exactly like this. The CS2520 uses the same engine and has approximately 3.5 more horsepower. I wouldn't mind bumping up the horsepower using this method in order to not bog down when snowblowing deep snow. Do you have any thoughts about whether this is doable, and approximately how much the screw should be adjusted?
I've read that some people are turning the screw in 2-3 turns, but my scree spun while I was removing the cap so I couldn't get an accurate setting so I just turned it in until I had a hint of black smoke under wide open and then backed it off a hair
They were great and have been since I've bought the tractor. I was $18,800 out the door for the tractor and loader but didn't pay sales tax because of my Christmas tree farm. I also purchased a 6ft Sundown finish mower, had the tires loaded with Rim Guard and Joyner's own brand of pallet forks. But, I'm sure the price has gone up. I purchased mine in July of 2021 and with steel and fuel prices, I'm sure it's $19,500 or more now
It's a 35 hp deliberately turned down to 25 hp to meet emissions. Only difference was rack screw and 2* of timing. No hot rodding needed to bring it back up to normal spec.
Unfortunately no. The 3510 and the 4010 are a different electronically controlled engine versus the 2610, which is an old school mechanical type diesel. In fact, the 3510 and the 4010 are the same engine, but the 4010 is programmed or tuned differently to give you extra horsepower. So essentially yours is already turned up from the factory
I did this a few weeks ago and when I was removing the security cap the screw was loose and turning so I didn’t have a starting point. Any chance you did a baseline turns out before you adjusted it. Or, If you know how many turns from stock you adjusted it, could you do a quick reading of how many turns so I have a starting point. I also added a EGT gauge so I can keep an eye on that. Awesome video, thanks
No, unfortunately the same thing happened to me, so I just turned it up until I got the faint bit of smoke and backed it back off a touch and left it there
@@NewfontheLoose1 If these screws are loose from the factory that's not good. That could cause all sorts of problems exhaust temperatures and or lean conditions. It might be worth removing the cap just to make sure it's tight! I wonder what they would say about the warranty being voided then.
@@pmaint1 I'm not sure if it was loose prior or I loosened it while I was removing the cap... of all the people that have done it, I can't seem to get anyone to just screw it in and count the turns for me.
