Tutorial- Weathering Clone Trooper Armor. Hasbro Black Series Commander Deviss (Star Wars Legend) 

I hope you don't change a single thing. 🖖🏾

@@louism.zanetti717 thank you Louis! Very kind of you.

Thank you. I love Bob Ross! If only I can sport his hairstyle-- I’m serious!

Thank you very much! 🙏🙏🙏

Glad to have you tune in 🙏

Thanks Shakes as always! I will for sure put out more videos focused on different techniques I’ve discovered along the way. Hope this one is helpful!

Hey thanks! Yeah Bly is a great base figure and can have lots of repaint potential. Though the thigh armor color is a real pain to remove 😂.

Thank you James! Good to hear from you again!

Hey great idea. What I found works best with making it metal is to do what I’ve done in the video, but do more sponge with the black paint along the edges. Then afterwards dry brush some of these blacked area with sliver paint which makes the light silver pop. If you want to go an extra step with the metal, use black for sponging but then do another layer of sponging with orange/light brown specks to make it look like rust. You can even use a bit of Mr Westhering makeup kit with the rust color. Good luck w your custom!

Thanks Tim as always! 👍

Thank you for tuning in!

Thank you so much! I’m glad you find it useful. Feel free to ask any question and I will do my best to explain. 🙏

Thank you! Hope you find it helpful!

@@ka-bashedfigures834 👍

Yes. Just to clarify (which I realized I didn’t in the video): the clear coat is to “lock down” anything you have done thus far. So let’s say you have painted on the base white coat, once you spray on LACQUER clear coat, anything you do after this clear coat can be “erased” by using ENAMEL thinner- as long as what you use is either enamel or acrylic paint and NOT lacquer. Ok, it might be still confusing- so there are 3 types of paints (in order of strength): acrylic, enamel and lacquer. There are also different thinners strength- ones that can wipe acrylic, enamel, and lacquer. So in my toolbox I have x-20 enamel thinner that is strong enough to deal with enamel and acrylic, but not enough to eat through lacquer. These are the ones I use when “erasing” paints above lacquer clear coat so it doesn’t disturb what I’ve done before the clear coat. I also have lacquer thinner, which can help me erase everything if I want to wipe all the paint away and redo completely. Then I have nail polish remover, which annihilates EVERYTHING real fast but can potentially scar the plastic underneath. Hope this helps 😂

@@ka-bashedfigures834 oh yeah, this does help, definitely taking a screenshot because I know this will definitely come in handy down the road. Really appreciate it Alex. 👍

Hello! So far I haven’t had that problem but perhaps I didn’t force the articulation enough to discover that issue. However, I discover from my experience that if I use primer, they do succumb to paint rub if I scratch it shortly after they are applied, but if I wait for it to cure for a day they get quite hard and can resist scratches from handling pretty well. I would suggest to always use primer (Mr Hobby’s primers comes in Mr.Finishing Surfacer 1500 White, 1500 Gray, 1500 Black, Mr.Mahogony 1000 Brown, and even Mr Oxide Red 1000). If my final color is Black or White, I will just use the primer and not use any other black/white paint on top. If my final color requires another color, I will first lay down a coat of primer before spraying on that color. It just helps the final color bond to the plastic better. Also, what type of paint do you use? I find lacquer and enamel paints to be pretty scratch resistant once cured. Acrylic paints rubs off easily especially when they don’t have time to cure. If you use acrylic, it might help to spray on a layer of lacquer clear coat at the end, which adds a layer of protection. Lastly, if all else fail, you can weather the figure and work some markings similar to the paint rub into the abs area. If it scratches there in the toy, it will most likely scratch in real life too right? 😂 add some additional markings there to make it seem like you are purposely incorporating the scratches into your paint to mimic how scratches will happen from the armor being worn. Hope this helps!

So far I’ve only done it with the mimban stormtrooper, because I thought the original figure did a bad job w the weathering. I also did it to a sandtrooper, although don’t know if this really counts because it was for the Bandai model kit sandtrooper. I might do it a stormtrooper to see if I can do a better job than the official Hasbro Remnant Stormtrooper.

For that purpose I just use my elongated pinky nail! 😂 The tool is called mixing spoon. It’s part of a set I got called “Mr Mix” produced by Japan’s Mr Hobby brand.

@@ka-bashedfigures834 Excellent. Thanks!