Two ways to replace a USB-C port - Lenovo Yoga X1 USB Type C port replacement 

You make it look so easy. If I was doing it all those tiny components near the sockets would have de-soldered and flown away!

I especially like how Sorin always has materials prepared, everything is safely done and he is exact in soldering with rest times in the process. A lot of modern boards use less total insulating material than older ones and heat can travel a long way where it shouldn't go if the hot air gun is allowed to loiter for too long. This is not a DIY job, especially with the smaller and more complicated USB C ports.

hey just recently found you and im loving the content

I would always have doubts if there are no shorts, especially because the connections are UNDER the port. But it is obvious that you know what you are doing.

Had a Lenovo Yoga that fried two m.2 nVME external drives - fried the controller on both - some smoke as well. Thankfully it did not destroy the 500GB m.2 drive inside. Good thing that the laptop was out of warranty - and just decom'd it. Salvaged what I could from it for parts. Too bad there is no device to check current draw on USB-C. or shorts for that matter. Excellent work on the repair.

Sorin I’m missing your hot glue repairs lol. Stay warm my friend.

Great video thanks, i snapped one port tripping over the cable but will probably get the repair shop to do it for lack of equipment. Good to know though.

Super! De preferat din spatele plăcii dar atenție ce e pe spate! Să nu topești ceva. Sănătate!

Thought for sure this wouldn't go well. Many small components next to it. Used capt tape, a dab of flux. She came right off. Great video, always a good watch !

So fast yet professional. Thank you so much again.

amazing job as allways ! Respect Mr. Sorin

Just want to note that two-sided heating, i.e. preheating the bottom of the motherboard with ports to 150-200 degrees, makes such soldering much easier when using a heat gun on top.

Weekend and still working You are great. To give us this nice Howe to do it professional

Mr Sorin, i think you may have blown away one of the input diodes, ed3418, no big deal it is just a transient / esd protection, but still, hopefully you caught it...

Hi Sorin, the second method is Akitatek's technique 😁, a USB -c port is tested in both directions

Good job Dear Sorin

What's that proper calibrated screw at 10:51?

Your work is always nice

thank you sir

I prefer to remove the port using the low melt solder, I do not want to overheat the board, and I will remove it totally later using a wick and then solder a new port using a regular leaded solder

Generally we also follow second method

Very good tutorial. You said you use 360º but... How much air flow do you use? Do you use a Quick? What type of solder do you use? Thank you. Greetings from Spain

What's the port called? Is it universal? I want to replace the USB C on my Lenovo Yoga Slim charging port.

Good job mate 👍

I wouldn't do it that way. I would use wick to clean the leg holes and apply leaded solder to the pads, and then reflow the connector in place, and after that just solder the legs. Also there is another type of Lenovo USB-C port, which is a nightmare to solder because it has legs, pads and through hole pins.

perfect thank you

Sorin I love your videos. I’m little confused on this video in that you said you are using low melt solder to solder a component. It’s my understanding that we remove components with low melt solder and resolder with regular leaded solder. Sorry if I misunderstood

yeah I hate this so much lol, those tiny capacitors right next to the port... was trying to clean the pads/remove the old solder and the wick knocked off the tiniest capacitor [this ones like idk half of the ones you have sitting there? it was smaller than a grain of salt, ridiculous] was definitely having a terrible day, and all for nothing as it is a more in depth board level repair. really need to go through all your vids and classes lol

It's a bad design to have the ports (especially the charging) directly soldered to the main board, I like the old ones where its on its own with pig tail wires connected so that when the connector is shaken/pressed/pulled/etc. it does not rip off from the board.

One data line's diode ( ED3418) seems to be off. The usb port won't work for data... (what you haven't tested...) The PD line is not on the data lines and doesn't have diodes. Too bad you think a usb-c port is only for charging. Waiting for the video for the "come back" job.

When you say low melt solder, do you just mean leaded solder or actual low melt solder

Give me the link to buy same connectors

lenovo x280 charging port is damaged can I use thunderbold 3 as a substitute or will it have some bad long time effect

Sorin represent more than just repair and tutorials. He is a source of courage for many like me. Am still a student and seeing Sorin do all of these then am not worried at all.

on the motherboard ED3418 seems to have moved from the heating of the flux in that area. Both USB-C charger ports worked though. Any tips on how to avoid making other tiny components move out of place?

PERFECT!

Perfect.

I definitely prefer the second method..

Perfect 👌

Nice!

Bro which type of soldering wire are you using

Hello, I have a problem on my laptop. The usb-c port on my laptop no longer works even though the port looks fine. Can it be repaired?

what part number is that you removed -- i need same

Hi Sorin. In your links you mention 'low melt solder'. I think it is a good idea not to overheat things, so I ordered some. (It is not cheap.) I tested it and noticed that it melts at a not significantly lower melting point than my traditional 60/40 solder I use. Do you have a feeling that it makes a big difference in the melting point? I can adjust the temperature of my soldering station, but until now I don't see any advantage. Edit: I just compared with my soldering station on 230 C. My 'normal' 60/40 solder melts, the so called 'low melt solder' doesn't...

Hi sorin! I've been following you for quite a while and in a recent video you said you can identify a dead cpu by the way the alcohol evaporates from it, I have a notebook that freezes on the initial splash screen, I opened it and noticed the dedicated gpu chip was getting way too hot right away, and it's not a gaming laptop it's one of those laptop that don't even have heatpipe coolers it's just a chunk of aluminium so it was not supposed to get that hot, is it possible a notebook can have a fied gpu and still have video the way I described? thanks!

Definitely doesn't react like any known low melt solder 138c melting point, second I would not use low melt for permanent repairs it doesn't have strength too last, solder from top high chance of melting plastic inside usb port, I'd say good video what NOT to do.

i hate this type of usb c specialy the samsung never stay in place at once

hey

So you order parts and even use gloves. But then you solder using low melt? Are you fishing for comments? :D

you never wicked or anything else you just slapped back there .....lazy way lol

third :P

Second method is good for obtaining spares from donors, without melting them. You can solder it that way, but why stress the PCB even more? To make it melting you have to put more heat for longer to punch through fiberglass to finally reach melting temperature on the designated side. You can, but just why? Also what has come to my mind - Why people are leaving solder in ground pins which are through mounted and can be soldered later to secure the socket to the PCB? You are just soldering socket with additional and not required solder mass which absorbs heat along with PCB which also sucks a lot of heat. When I am soldering type C connector I prep the pads with fresh solder, leave ground pins clear, and I prep socket pins and I solder datalines/powerlines first, then I finish with ground pins. I am not guru, master or smh. I have been daily soldering for past 22 years and I also can be wrong but when I am watching contents like this I always wonder, why you people just make job for yourselves harder...

Sorin can you explain more on why you are waiting 2 seconds and then you are reheating the port and moving it?

Another great one. Thanks! Almost no flies here in northern China. Mosquitoes yes.

Desolder the 4 mounting pads and remove that solder completely: replace the port and weld only the pins with much less heat and than solder the 4 casing pins with just a normal solder iron? Less change to affect the internals of the new usb c port. What do you think?