In this video, I go through a 6 speed U660E Trans. I had a delay in drive when hot, I show what I found to cause this problem as well as other common issues. Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much. I am tackling no forward, no reverse, No dtc code. Found out turbine speed TC is zero when in drive. Pump is ok, fluid comes out of cooler. I already dismantled and im seeing faults in torque converter and b1 clutch. I will replace these and see how it plays.
Excellent video as usual. Even though this wasn't a teardown video, it wasn't far from it. Extremely detailed, lots of great info & tips. I specifically enjoyed the proof of concept of checking the leak at the rear cover. Removing that bearing so that pack is seated at a different position in the cover, which truly identifies that groove in the cover as being the issue. Very thorough! Happy Father's Day Gary! Big hugs! 😊😊🤗🤗
I have a 2009 Aurion. This Winter im noticing a delay in drive when cold. It goes into drive fine. But shifting up from crawling pace it's indecisive in the first couple of gears
Man, what an outstanding video. Well presented and great audio...you and the equipment. In your experience, have you ever heard what the pump volume is in gpm? I am installing an external cooler with a thermostat. There are two option, up tp5 gpm and up to 20 gpm. There is quite a price differential, so I want to be sure if I need the 20 gpm unit. Thanks again for a great video.
Great video, thank you. Question, will that problem return, does the remanufactured ones have the same potential for failure? Thanks in advance. I'm about to get a Toyota remanufactured one install but i'm concern because they only offer 12 month warranty.
I have this transmission im my 2011 Camry, can you go into details of the valve body and what each solenoid is responsible for; My transmission runs fine and shift fine but everytime i put it in drive ( hot or cold ) there like a 5 second delay before it goes into drive...
Those transmissions tend to flare when cold, and sometimes even when hot. One day it flares like hell, next day no flare and shifts like new. Do you have any solution for this?
Greetings Mr. Ferraro , I have U760e with P2716 Code , so I had replaced the OEM SLT solenoid and the harsh shifting had gone ,but still the reverse not engaged when transmission is hot ,no codes no forward issues only the reverse , Sometimes need to put into drive or neutral couple times to make reverse engagement . Any ideas Sir !
Hello there, i have a v6 07' camry with hard shift from 35 mph when hard accelerating (probably third to second gear im not sure). Medium accelerating lets it shift smooth. Accelerating hard from 0 mph lets it shift smooth as well what could the problem be. Well at least what I could predict? Fluid and filter changed recently
The problem these transmissions have with the race and bearing spinning in the housing just as you found in this video...is that caused by too much torque from the motor or the "lifetime" fluid not lubricating properly? Thanks for the video.
Hi Gary wonderful video. I have been thinking about upgrading my Valve Body and put the BOE Shift Kit on. But I'm wondering if I should be putting the effort into overhauling the pistons now or perhaps other parts you mentioned.
@@GaryFerraro It's working fine with the morning shift flare. But recently I've noticed it dropping a gear or shifting up from gears 234 or holding a gear for longer than usual.
Hi Gary. Informative video and solid work. I've got a 2007 Toyota Camry XLE V6 U660E with error codes for the shift solenoids A and D. Do you know which solenoids those are as far as actual part numbers/location in the valve body? I'm thinking of just replacing the valve body with a reman instead of just those two solenoids. Sometimes the car won't engage in drive unless I shut the car off and restart it. I added 3/4 of a quart Toyota WS with the proper fluid level check procedure, but still throwing the same solenoid A & D codes and intermittent failure to engage in drive. I've got 220k miles on it, so it might just be time to let it rest. Input appreciated.
I watched a video on changing the fluid in this transmission, and it said you need a vacuum pump and a special straw tool in order to check the fluid level. Can you really just fill until the fluid comes thru that red straw on the bottom of the pan? That would make things much easier.
Hi Gary, thanks very much for the great video. I have rebuilt engines but this is my first transmission. My differential is bad ('07 es350) but no luck finding one, dealer wants $950 for new diff. Any suggestions? Thanks
@@GaryFerraro should I get a $2k LKQ trans with 100k instead of rebuilding mine? Seems like it. Will 2010+ u660e fit 2007-2009 motor with no issues? Thanks again
One question. What do you think about this transmission U760E, is it good? Do you know if they have quality issues or defects? I have read they have some issues with the torque converter. Thanks for your support.
Yes, they have issues with the converter. They also have issues with the molded pistons which will cause a slip on the 2-3 shift. High mileage cars the valvebodies tend to get bore wear
@@GaryFerraro one question, what do you think could be the best way to extend the transmission life without issues? What would be your recommendations??
Hey brother my Camry u660 when I drive at low rpms my trans make a splashing sound this only happens when I’m costing at low gas pressure. It get worse when my car is hot. It feels like the the fluid is not getting into the gears but when i drive it at Manuel mode it gets better so I just drive it like a Manuel car and it’s ok. Before my car was making a really bad shuttering I just changed it and it got better then it got worse then I did a flush and it runs fine just that awful wind splashing sound. I’m a self dooer type of guy and I rather try to fix it my self. Any ideas. I think I need to give a cleaning on the solenoids.
After a rebuild a U660E shop used mercon V, which I replaced for WS after as soon as I knew. what could cause a hard shift from first to second gear? and sometimes from 5th to 6th gear also
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for taking the time to answer. They did the resetting twice already, which fixed some other problems but the hard shifts. The problem is present in both conditions, hot and cold. Could it be a oil level related issue also?
So I have an 11 Camry with the 2.5L and the U760E. I have an issue with the lockup for the converter. The 1-2 shift is okay but as soon as it shifts to 3rd I'm getting full converter lockup. Or stays locked through the rest of the gears unless I kick it down it will disengage like it's supposes to, but once it re-engages its full lock again. I used a snap-on scanner to monitor the lockup status and it doesn't switch to lock until it's in 6th gear. It seems like I'm getting full lockup when I should be getting partial lockup. Other than that everything seems to operate as it should. All the shifts are there and solid. I an thinking it could be a TCM issue, do you have any suggestions? Also, if I replace the TCM with the same part # will it have to be programmed or is that a plug and play module? Any info or suggestions is greatly appreciated. Thanks...
@@GaryFerraro No codes at all. I tried a KAM reset and nothing changed. There was a TSB for trans related issues so I took it to the Toyota dealer to have the software updated but still no change.
Have you seen any problems with temp sensors on that trans? Not much information on it for diagnosing, got sienna at my shop, with intermittent sensor electrical/ and performance code, repair instructions on Mitchell says transmission has to come out
Gary Ferraro I will look in the morning, one of the was tamp sensor electrical/ which I am optimistic about, the other one is a performance code, I looked on freeze frame data, to see where temp was, no data available, she saids it does it after she drives it for extended periods of time, I wonder if it’s over heating? Have not duplicated it yet
I would ay no to that, on these transmissions the main case wears out , when this happens the geartrain is not running true and can possibly make noise
I have a 2014 Toyota Sienna with 78000 miles and it's starting to make bearing noise whirring noise. Makes noise at 50-65 miles per hour and sounds like a bad wheel bearing but if I put it in neutral the noise stops completely then when I put back in drive the noise will come on again as you continue to drive. Would this be the main case pressed in bearing and case weakness ?
Large nut has to come out, then i used a bushing driver that fit on the inside lip of the planet(about half way down on the inside of the planet). This way i saved the threads and installed a new nut.
@@GaryFerraro that is what i did, after stacking the clutch pack both ways it seemed the clearance was best with the higher ridge facing up, thank you for your time, your videos have helped me more than once. Have a good night
Would you say this unit is still generally reliable? Or I should avoid it. Because I know when they first came out in like 07 with the camry v6 they have trouble with shift flares 2-3, 3-4, 4-5. I think they fixed that problem later on right?
@@alisair2113 Ran the stats on the jeep, it may be a 42RLE, you need to get to the PCM to ohm the solenoids. If you clear the code, it comes right back?
@@GaryFerraro Dear brother, I only know when I am scanning the code code 750. I am confused because there is no one to fix it in my country. I hope you can guide me please.
@@deft1abc1 Well, I looked at everything, bushings, bearings and really did not see much, I think it must be something with the cover itself, also because this is the first time im seeing this issue, possibly the cover not machined correctly, There wasn't even 70K on the mileage.
My transmission on my 2007 ES 350 has a shift flare from 3rd to 4th gear only when cold. I read that this is a relatively common issue on early U660 transmissions. Otherwise, it seems to be shifting fine. Any recommendations to help rectify this issues?
When I checked the fluid, it was pretty dark. I did two transmission services (replacing about 4 quarts of ATF) and now the fluid is a dark red. I haven't dropped the pan. The shift quality overall has seemed to improve but the aforementioned flare is still present.
