I put my bandsaw through the toughest test possible - ripping through a long board of wenge 240mm deep. Support me on Patreon: / susangardener Merchandise (T shirts and mugs): teespring.com/...
As others have stated, the bottom of gullet of teeth should run on the crown of the wheel. By keeping the front / toothed edge of the blade taught, the rear will follow wherever the front cuts. When you cut veneers off like that the bulk of the stock should be against the fence and the veneer to the outside. You did do OK. Feather boards as others have said & indeed + outfeed rollers. Yes adjust your back bearings also so the blade isn’t deflecting rearwards under cutting pressure. I’m no luthier but do know bandsaws. Keep at it, with very expensive wood like your wenge, it would pay to cut a piece of mdf to those same dimensions and test cut on that first to iron out any wrinkles- before jumping in the deep end with the expensive wenge. 👍👍👍🇦🇺
Hello Susan, I have the forerunner of your band saw which I am really pleased with. just thought I would pass on a few tips relating to it. I changed the original blade to an Axminster Excalibur blade and set the whole saw up following Alex Snodgrass (RU-vid) setting up a band saw. My saw cuts absolutely straight with any wood Hard of Soft against the fence and I can cut very thin veneers on it. Have a look at that video if you haven't seen it,I think it's really worth it and made my saw a joy to use.
Thanks for that - I'm about to buy the same machine for the same purpose (albeit it's currently unavailable due to covid), so great to see it can handle re-sawing lumber large enough for guitar back/tops.
Looks good! Infeed and outfeed support is very helpful for resawing. Almost as useful are stacked featherboards to keep both the top and the bottom of the stock against the fence. These things make your job a lot easier. I'm looking forward to seeing you use the wenge.
Having used a table saw with an in-feed and/or out-feed tables on larger workpieces vs trying to do it without, it's recommended to spend a little time/materials on making at least one table. An adjustable table is as simple as: a piece of mdd/plywood held vertically in your workmate. With a similar board attached with a piece of 2x2. The height of the table can be adjusted in the workbench... don't need an extra pair of hands to help! The 3 tooth rule, applies to the minimum thickness of a board. Less than three teeth in the board and you will not be sawing - it's more bashing the timber than cutting with less than three teeth in contact. Thinner blades can allow more tension (if required) and fewer teeth/inch (tps) allow faster/better clearance of the sawdust but with a poorer finish. Fewer tps might also make cutting a bigger (taller) cut easier. Cutting the veneer with the blade close to the fence could get you in a bind! Better to cut with workpiece against the fence and the veneer cutting on the free side. After the initial cut, all the veneers will be the same thickness. If there is a bow in the workpiece, using a flat surface e.g. a spirit level to even things out can help...
Hi Susan, I always admire a person who admits to their faults. I certainly would ..If I had any. Just joking of course I have faults many many of them. I found your video useful and informative and like others I instantly spotted the incorrect blade positioning. Had my 350 Sabre for a few years lovely machine. Now what did I learn. The grinding of the blade joint. I had noticed occasionally the tick tick tick with some blades. Now I know what it is. Thanks. Alex Snodgrass is worth watching . Harry
Have been toying with buying a bandsaw for many years, due to retire in 5 so me thinks if I get one now by the time I do, I may be able to use it properly :) I like the look of the Sabre 350 so time to get the pennies out! TFS 'thanks for sharing' GB :)
I’d say great results all around.....I cut my resaw lumber into smaller pieces as I work alone also. Please do a video when you cut this down to binding. I have some black walnut pieces I’d like to do the same to. Thanks for the videos
Hi, I am about to buy this particular band saw. I have watched and enjoyed many of your videos, respecting your mechanical and engineering abilities and technical understanding in general. I do hope sincerely hope that now having expressed my respect you will now be able to take and receive my observations with the respect they are given to you. In particular, around 08.33 into the video. you are setting out to pass this "beam" through the saw, I was astonished that you are "behind" the workpiece, literally having to peer over it toward the cutting edge, therefor and obviously, the slightest movent forward from your body automatically fulcrums the workpiece away from the fence!.. also, in having to lift you are inviting the piece to fulcrum about the vertical axis at the same time on the edge of the worktable! If you had been standing on the other side (facing the saw blade and fence). Your body weight then naturally assists the retention of the workpiece onto the fence (maintaining the desired parallel ) and downward pressure is easily distributed and applied as necessary too, thus negating all the lifting and lowering of the workpiece off of the table surface and on the blade as it touches. I was extremely disappointed for you,that you were disappointed with the initial cut, but I was shouting to you at my screen..!!! but you didn't hear me...!!! I hope you are well and I always give you a thumbs up.. Alan.. over in Sunny Menorca!!
I had a chunk of rosewood that was too narrow for a fret board but was thick enough to split to bookmatch by glueing the two halves together. It made a very attractive looking FB. The seam is easy to see for lineing up on the neck center line. It appears to be semi-quarter or skew. I glued it with Gorilla glue as it was rosewood. Should never come apart.
On straight grained quarter sawn lumber you shouldn’t have a problem using a resaw fence. The problem is that wood sometimes is under tension and stress from the fibers being cut a certain way. Then when you resaw a board it releases that tension and stress and the board may twist, bow or cup. That’s when the problems happen. I have resawn a lot of lumber and when the wood is well dried, quarter sawn and straight grain there is no problems using a resaw fence. I just cut up some 8 1/2” black walnut and got some real nice even 3mm thick boards for back and sides.
Hi, I'm a big new fan and have been enjoying your extensive guitar build. I'm up to episode 19 Coincidentally, I take delivery of my 1st band saw on Monday. I went for the 1 below yours. I have been doing a lot of research on the subject and noticed that your new blade is in the wrong place. The gullett should be in the centre of the wheel, so the back of that blade would be at the end of the tyre. I have seen at least two respected woodworkers mention this. one being Matthias Wandel. I am aware that you might know better, so please ignore this.
That probably keeps the blade more stable as the crown of the wheel is guiding the front of the blade. You can’t do that with thinner blades as the side bearings have to sit behind the teeth and won’t go back far enough, but with the 3/4” blade that isn’t a consideration. I’ll try that next time. Thanks.
@@SusanGardener I have been doing some more digging and now think THAT blade is in the right place. My advice would only apply to a smaller blade. I also agree with you concerning the rear guide positioning, that blade did very well, so did you! Well done.
the issue of a "fence" on a band saw comes from the fact that on a TABLE SAW using a fence in this way ( ie: without a Riving knife or as more commonly known as a splitter) is the FASTEST way to cause a "kick_Back" of the piece of wood going through the saw, it gets jammed between the fence and blade and the back of the saw gets this wood, and... there goes the wood, full speed into the nearest wall or other item in the woods path! - hopefully not impaling the user of the saw in the process.
Thanks for this video. Firstly as you show a less than perfect cut, and then how to improve it. Also you are like a lot of us working alone and in less than an ideal set up. How easy is it to move that saw?? Looking at either that or the 350s as an up grade. Thanks again
Tell you I am amazed at how far you have developed as a woodworker since I first saw you on RU-vid . The stuff you do now is proper challenging and although you weren’t entirely happy with your work for my money it’s hats off to you 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👍🏻. For the saw, do you think it’s actually worth a £grand? Looks a good bit of kit and it has all the gizmos but wondering if that inflates the price at the expense of pure power? Curious what you and others think after this demo. Cheers🍻
Susan! Finally there is!! At the moment this is the only video I know where Hardwood is sawn up to the load limit! Respect! Do you think a miter sled can be helpful to cut these big boards of Hardwood?
Chris Stephens I have a 3/8” blade that I use to cut circles and resaw and haven’t had any problems. It really has to do with how well the bandsaw is setup and having a good resaw fence. My resaw fence is homemade for my purposes and cut 2mm and 3mm boards consistently.
I’ve found cutting the board to 22” for back and 32” for sides makes it a lot easier when resawing. Resawing long boards like this free hand presents too many problems.
thank you Susan . what is the horse power of your saw it did a great job . dont beat your self up on the mistakes all things are a learning process. oh and keep the saw dust great as a filler i use old containers . such as zip lock bags n large spice bottles also plastic jars n such
I am glade you mentioned about in feed and out feed extensions....you can make them to work on both table saw and band saw so with planning you only need to make one of each. Also in feed and out feed Tables should attach to the tool and whatever legs or stand you have at the end. If you don't want to make one you can pick up an ironing board. I see you using a plastic push stick..I had one that came with my table saw...the work kicked back and so did the push stick luckly I only had some bad bruises but splinters could have gone into me like bullets....I suggest you make one out of wood the saw will just cut it and not likely turn it in to a missile.
I was wondering why you would struggle with a piece that long instead of bucking it to reasonable lengths. Such as what an actual side length or fretboard would be. But then you mentioned the interior flaw that might crop up. But I would say go with the shorter piece and get a more quality cut. Fabulous piece of wenge BTW. I've got a sizeable piece of my own that will yield more fretboards than I can use in my life time. Also sides and backs.
Interesting. The bandsaw seemed to cope ok but was working hard. If you had to choose between the 350 and the bs400 now would you still go for the lesser powered 350 with upgraded parts or the 400? Just building my workshop to build guitars as a hobby so you videos are very helpful. Thanks.
I could have done with a little more power, but as you saw (pun) it coped. One consideration is I only have a domestic supply, which limits me to 3000W, but that’s plenty for all the Record Power range (I think)
Yep. Not sure the supply matters in this case. It’s been designed for 240v supply and general public so can’t imagine a normal household supply wouldn’t be running it fully.
Hi Susie, that was interesting because I have the one down from yours (BS300E), and I'm intending to do some deep cuts like that, but probably no more than 18cm so it's reassuring to see that you succeeded with 24cm. One (well, two) of the pieces that I want to cut is a bookmatched maple top that turned up being 24mm thick, so I reckon I can easily cut each piece and get two tops for the price of one! One question, though - how many guitars are you planning to make with all of that wood? That's going to keep you busy for years, isn't it?
@@SusanGardener I'm sure you will have fun with all of that, then! BTW I'm enjoying your acoustic build but it's definitely convinced me that I'm sticking with electrics!
Paul sellers uses an auxiliary fence on his band saw to get over the depth of guides on thinner cuts problem you mentioned, here from about 13:30 mins into his video : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xGmgsfu0ySI.html
I like your videos, however, you seem to have developed a habit of making a small laugh/chuckle sometimes (when things are not really funny). Once I noticed it, it has become quite anoying!
