Hi Guy! Thank you for your invaluable advice. I bought a house 2 years ago AND had a "pro" termite inspection done. I was advised of (Minor) signs of prior activity, but none current. Well...... guess what I found after moving in? Subterranean Termites after a swarm in my bathroom. Long story short, I followed your advice to the letter and got rid of them. Also, the previous owner stored fire wood right against that outside wall.... real genius!!! Even I knew better than THAT! I now check and treat the house using the granules every year. I have NO signs of termites. And I LOOK!!! I also keep the foundation clear of dirt and check for mud tubes, etc. SO far so good. Not one single swarmer this spring! Thank you so much for sharing your great experience.
Hello, my friend. I have a question about powder post beetles. I recently tried curing misquite wood in the yard only to find frass below the wood every few inches. Also small holes at those points. What can be used for these, please?
@@Wisdomseeker_777 Always nice to hear from you. Are you sure these are powder post beetles? I usually see these in the crawl spaces of older homes. Mesquite wood is very hard, but it is certainly possible for it to be infested with powder post beetles. Do you suppose you could send me photos of the frass and the holes? Take close up photos. Also, send me a photo from a distance so I can see what the wood looks like. Please watch my video on how to photograph a bug and use that same technique to take close up photos. You can send the photos to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Please make sure to put "Case File Number 080120241" in the subject line. I'll bet we can figure out something to take care of the problem. Be well my friend. Video on how to photograph a bug: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-I8qd63hX6y8.html
@@GuysPestSolutions thank you so much for making the videos I wish were around about 10 years ago! I watched your video about using balsa wood to make your own Termite detectors. I wanted to ask if you can soak these balsa sticks in the Termidor solution (and water) to 'two birds with one stone' the process? Thank you from Australia. Love the way you make your videos. 😀
Thank you so much for those kind words. My channel really took off last year. I suspect it's because I am the only one who will answer all questions in full detail. I don't care how long it takes. I will answer every question and I will work with everyone until their problem is solved. It is interesting that about 40% of my viewers are from about 50 countries other than the US. I get questions from people all around the world. I must admit. I did not see that coming. It's fun though and I really enjoy doing it. Thank you so much for watching. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Hi, Guy! Your videos are invaluable! I agree with you about not using the home inspector for the WDO inspection. I bought the inspection as an add-on service, and I regret it every day. I already know the damage exceeds 40k, and won't be surprised if it exceeds 100k & that's for the house only. The house infested my furniture with termites & beetles. I'm not sure that I can afford the repairs. I'm approaching your age bracket & don't foresee a financial windfall before the house collapses or ever. Keep up the great work! I admire your altruistic service to the community.
I am so sorry that happened to you. Consumers should have better protection against this stuff. I hope it works out in the end for you. Be well my friend.
Thank you Guy.i used both methods.was able to afford by doing it myself.worked miracles.will continue treatments every 4 month.it kill out all pest inside out. thank you for allowing me to be a pest.😁
Hi Guy, I have drywood termites. I had a termite group come and spray my attic and crawlspace with Boracare. They used a high pressure system from their truck but I am pretty sure they did not do a thorough job like you described. I also had tons of termites eating the wood around the entrance to my attic here in S FL. I treated it with Termidor foam and it was also treated with Boracare after the termites were dead. When they inspected my house, I showed them the tons of wings that were on top of my cabinet and live termites in the burlap lampshade on the cabinet (the light is on at night). Every morning I would wake up and see live termites crawling inside the lampshade. They suggested that the wings were from the infestation in the attic because they fly to the light. Well, 8 months later, my cabinet has tons to holes eaten out in the long wood strip trim along the outside. I treated all of this with Termidor and then we hauled it outside to sit in the blazing sun for three days. I have not seen any more wings on the cabinet but I have found many exit holes in my very old wood floor. There has been no frass at all but I have had piles in the past on the word floor. I even found a bad hole where the wood was eaten out behind the perfect looking surface. When I called the company back last week, they came and were pressing a little pick type tool into the kick out holes they found in my wood floor and then using a B&G sprayer with a needle tip to inject each hole. They said it was Termidor HE. QUESTIONS: (1)Is this something they would be making into a foam or just spraying as a liquid? (2)Does that actually work without drilling the holes into the floor? (3) Do those perfectly round holes always mean there is a live colony down below? I am very confused by this part. (4) Does the Termidor HE has a much farther reach allowing them to just inject into that small hole they pushed in to accommodate the sprayer needle or are they just telling me a story! Thanks so much for any guidance. I have drilled way too many holes into my oak floor. I don't want to tent my house and kill all of my other critters that I love. I am pretty persistent and won't give up. Thanks for the great videos and for actually answering people.
The bora-care treatment was a good idea. I don't know what the pest controllers did when treating the floor. Termidor HE is a good product, but it is generally used for trenching. I have not seen it injected into wood before. They may have been using a foamer, but it sounds more like they just used a liquid. If so, that may not be effective. The canned foam is way better. In any case it is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. The bora-care treatment in the attic will help with protecting the roof structure, but I don't know how good of a job they did. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. I know you don't want to do that. I mean, who does? But your home is your biggest investment, so it really needs to be done. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. This is a generic video that covers a lot of different pests, but it also works for preventing drywood termites. Just ignore the part about treating your yard. You only need to treat the house for drywood termites. This will not treat the termites that are already there, but it will stop new ones from getting in. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can keep spot treating it, but it's like playing whack-a-mole. The termites will most likely win this battle in the end. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries. Still, it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. Please note that I am on vacation right now and I only get internet some of the time. I will be home on June 11, and I can answer all your questions then. The good news is that drywood termites are very slow eaters, so you have some time to pull this together. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y-a8XOqVrlE.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Yozv3s-Qwlw.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-U7ck7zhS0Xo.html
Another useful and helpful video by Guy!!! The truth, as he says, is that many termite inspectors do their job halfway done. Nobody will do it better than yourself!!! You just gotta listen to Guy and follow his advice...
Hello Guy! I have recently discovered subterranean termites in my home due to a swarm. I found your channel, subscribed, and have watched many of your videos. I am grateful that you have taken the time to share your knowledge, and can appreciate the work that goes into producing your videos. Your clear, concise, and in depth explanations are excellent. Oh, and may I also add, humorous. Thank you! Even though I have some experience with subterranean termites from years of work in property maintenance and management, and I inspect my house for termites twice a year, the path the termites decided to take seemed as if they were aware as to how difficult it would be to detect. I am going to apply a termiticide along the expansion joint space inside my garage that is adjacent to a block interior foundation wall. I have removed the old joint material and used a 3/8" x 12" drill bit to loosen the soil below. I can see that there are termites in the area with a borescope. I have read that a dedicated sprayer tank should be used when applying a non-repellent termiticide. I already have several sprayers that I always keep clean. What are your feelings about using a dedicated sprayer for this purpose? All the best!
If you are certain that these are subterranean termites, then you need to be sure that you are treating them with either fipronil or imidacloprid. I do not recommend treating them with any other type of pesticide, even if it's non-repellent. The reason for that is most pesticides kill the termites too fast and does not allow them time to bring the pesticide back to the colony. You may see a lot of dead termites really fast, but that is not going to take out the infestation. My go-to product for this is Taurus SC. You do not need a dedicated sprayer for this. You just need to rinse it out after you're finished. Applying Taurus SC the way you describe will probably help the situation, but it is unlikely to take out the entire colony. Therefore I recommend that you either use termite granules or trenching around the house. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to apply termite granules: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H7rW_TSBHJ4.html Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Fy7YHi_7Z8g.html
I saw the flying ones in my house one day in Indianapolis. I started looking around and noticed a spot on my garage/ house door frame that looked odd. I pressed on it and the paint caved in to open up a spot the definitely looked like tunnels. I was in my 20s, but I knew I had a problem
Great story. Thanks for sharing. I did an inspection one time where someone leaned on their wall and they went right through it. That's why folks would be wise to inspect their homes for termites every year. It's not that hard to do and it can save you thousands in repairs. Be well my friend.
Hello Guy! New to your channel, you seem to know your onions, thought I'd have you tell me just how it is with no frills. Living in this house near MS Gulf Coast since 2015 taking care of an older friend, no sign of termites except a mud tube which pest control removed when they treated and trenched around the foundation, saying that would likely take care of our problem. My friend passed away from Covid in 2021, he left me his house and in the Spring of 2022 there was a swarm inside. Pest control was called and noticed "dirt" (frass) in what was his bathroom and wanted to trench, which had already been done but they said it can 'wear off'. So I told them no thanks and used Termidor foam inside the kick-out holes in an effort to kill any termites by having them walk through and carry it to their nest. Then a sound like someone fell in the bathroom, but nobody in there. Took apart what was my friend's stand-up shower and inside the wall space there was an appx 3' tall, 2' wide nearly 6" thick termite nest near the ceiling that had become so heavy, the bottom 3/4 snapped off and fell to the floor inside the space. The nest had to have been there for some time, but we had no idea at all until the mud tube outside around 2016 and the swarm inside in 2022. There were no termites visible by the time I got to the nest (except a few swarmers, no soldiers) but the smell of dirt was thick. I'm trying to figure out if you can tell me by the nest size/location (gone now) whether it was a drywood "gallery" or a formosan "carton", if it matters, and what type(s) of treatment(s) might kill the most termites and what my chance of success might be over how much time. My hope is that I'm not dealing with 'super-termites' but I've learned by now to accept that, with termites, it's usually worse than you think. My days are spent wishing it didn't fall to me, but it did, so I'm taking your advice and doing the best I can. The house is on a slab with a short brick foundation and stucco exterior if that helps. Thanks very much for your expertise and assistance! PS: Your response to tracietv2 last week helped me very much - unless you have anything further you wanted me to know, I will follow the same suggestions you posted there. Thank you again.
Thanks for watching my videos. Very much appreciated. First of all, the only species of termites that build those kinds of cartons are Formosan termites, so it's a pretty reasonable conclusion that is what you are dealing with. The pest control company that did the original work should have searched the house for cartons and removed them. Unfortunately, most pest control companies either don't know how to do this or they do not want to do it, so it does not get done. The cartons can support termites for quite some time after the trenching is finished. The pest controller is correct that the trench treatment only lasts between 5 to 10 years, with 7 years being about the average. So, at this point you need to trench again and then search for cartons. I have a video on how to treat Formosan termites and I will give you the link. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Formosan termite video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xDtGUWxMrRw.html
Thank you so much for watching and for those kind words. I look forward to reading your email. I am currently answering a lot of questions. I guess I am starting to get into my busy season. Last year it started on May 1, but it looks like it's coming early this year. I have been answering questions all day. I will do my best to get to the email today, but it may be in the morning. I was only getting about 5 to 10 questions a day before I released this video and today I had about 40 questions. Last May I started getting up to 100 questions a day. I'm not complaining because I love helping people, but I can be difficult sometimes to keep up. I know you understand. Be well mate.
@@SteveMack I know you understand. I will try to answer your email today, but I will be gone for the next three days. My brother is coming into town today and I will be taking him and his grandson to the theme parks. I am really going to get behind on answering questions, so please don't worry about me. I will get through it just as soon as I can. Be well mate.
You are correct. I do need to do a video on silverfish. I have it on my list of videos that I need to do. For now though, let me explain how to take care of the problem. The first thing you need to know about silverfish is that they get into your house from the outside. Therefore, the first thing you need to do is to treat the outside of your home. I'll give you a link to my video on how to do that. The next thing you need to do is treat the inside of your home. Purchase Niban FG Fine Granular Bait. I will give you a link for the product. You can apply this product in cracks and crevices in areas that are not accessible by people or pets, where you are seeing the silverfish activity. One of the nice features about this product is that it comes with an applicator tip, so that you could apply it without using a duster. Treat under baseboards, appliances, and where plumbing penetrates the wall, like under the sinks, and where the toilet supply pipe goes into the wall. You can also apply the product in basements, attics, and crawl spaces. In more open areas, you can use Dekko Silverfish Packs. You can place these on kitchen shelves, under sinks, inside drawers, on bookshelves, in pantries, in attics, or any other place you are seeing activity that is out of reach of children and pets. You want to place these about every 12 inches apart on shelves, and place about three or four of them under sinks and under appliances. Finally, it's a good idea to seal up any cracks and crevices on the outside and the inside of the building. Not only will this help to stop silverfish, but other invading pests as well. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat the outside of your home: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Yozv3s-Qwlw.html Niban FG Fine Granular Bait: www.domyown.com/niban-fine-granular-bait-lb-p-49.html?pdpv=2 Dekko silverfish packs: www.domyown.com/dekko-silverfish-packs-p-204.html?pdpv=2
Hi Guy, your video nailed it as always..! I have pieces of plywood, 2 by 4, etc... in my backyard. Today I need some wood for a small project, and I see termites crawling in/out of the plywood. There are holes here & there as they crawl in & out so for sure termites in my plywood. I have 2 questions: - Your video says asking you for guidance if we see outdoor unused wood has termite. Could you elaborate? - Your video says not to store wood outdoor but wood is useful for small projects here & there. How can we keep wood outdoor safely so they don't become termite's restaurant? Thank you for educating & empowering the public with your experience !
I can assist you with this. The answer to both questions is the same. If you have wood outside, then create a kill zone to store it on. Never lean it against a building. To create a kill zone, get a can of spray paint and paint the ground around the wood that is at least 6 inches wider than the pile of wood in all directions. Move the wood out of that kill zone. Dig out that entire area 6 inches deep and soak it with a mixture of Taurus SC mixed 0.8 ounces per gallon of water. I mean, soak it good. You can use a gardening watering can to make it quick and easy. Put 3 inches of dirt over the entire area and soak it well with the Taurus SC mixture. Fill it in the rest of the way and soak it one more time. Now replace the wood where it was originally, on top of this kill zone. This will kill the existing termites and prevent new ones. This only works for subterranean termites. Let me know if you have drywood termites where you live. If you are not sure, then watch my video on how to identify termite species. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Appreciate your golden advice. You asked about if I have drywood termites. Yes Sir, here in Southern California, you see colorful fumigation tents all the time. If drywood termites attack my outdoor spare wood, I think Taurus SC should be good too b/c its description also says applicable for subterranean & drywood termites. But sounds like you have better alternatives for drywood termites if they attack outdoor wood?
@@Brian_L_5168 If drywood termites attacked the wood outside, then they also attacked your house. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. This is why you are seeing those colorful tents going up from time to time. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. This is a generic video that covers a lot of different pests, but it also works for preventing drywood termites. Just ignore the part about treating your yard. You only need to treat the house for drywood termites. This will not treat the termites that are already there, but it will stop new ones from getting in. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I hope that helps. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y-a8XOqVrlE.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Yozv3s-Qwlw.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-U7ck7zhS0Xo.html
Guy, first I just would like to say thank you for the awesome pest control videos. I've personally learned a lot and have eliminated cockroaches in my house. I live in coastal, eastern NC and we have red fire ants. A friend of mine told me about the "transplant" method, where you take one anthill, scoop a good part of it with a shovel, and place it on another hill and in a few days they fight each other and die. Can you please explain from a professional view how this works, because from firsthand experience I was amazed. What are the mechanics behind this process and how do you do it from a professional standpoint? Thank you Guy!
That's a great hypothesis, but it is not based in fact. The truth is that some of the worker ants may fight each other, but it is unlikely to kill off the colony. Fire ants are amazingly tolerant of other colonies and often times they will actually merge. Unlike many ant species that have just one queen, fire ant colonies can have multiple queens, so colonies are happy to coexist right next to each other. Moving ants from one mound to another might actually create more mounds. So, the transplant method is not a good way to eliminate fire ants. If you want them gone, you can do it for about $10 and it's super fast to do. I will give you a link to my video on how to do it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to eliminate fire ants: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VReLWuT-jcQ.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you for the response! I was only made aware of this method because I had an ant hill in an area of my lawn where I wanted to grow plants for consumption, so I was looking for a non-chemical way to rid them. My friend mentioned the transplant idea because he heard it from an exterminator in our area... I respect your experience, and I understand that it may just be anecdotal method. Have you personally ever heard any of your colleagues or clients try the transplanting? It could just be some redneck thing from where I'm from.. Lol . Thank you Guy
@@angrytrukker4672 I don't know of any pest controllers that would suggest treating fire ants by transplanting them. I think most of them would know better. I can give you a link to an article that busts all the myths about home remedies for fire ants. It's the fourth one down. There is a lot of misinformation out there, so you should always check to make sure that what you are being told is actually true. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. ant-pests.extension.org/debunking-common-fire-ant-myths/#:~:text=Myth%3A%20If%20you%20mix%20fire,but%20not%20the%20entire%20colony.
Hi Guy. Thanks for your excellent videos. I'm going to do the Bayer pellet treatment today around the perimeter. I have a dirt crawl space in my basement. The entry to that crawl space is where I see many dead termites. Should I do the dirt inside that crawlspace, too? How long can I expect the treatment to last? Thanks again! You are awesome. It's really great that u are taking time out of ur retirement to help others. It's much appreciated.
Look under the crawl space and see if there are any mud tubes in contact with the ground. If not, then you do not need to treat under there. If there are mud tubes in contact with the ground, then let me know. Also, if there are no mud tubes in contact with the ground, then you should cover the ground under there with polyethene plastic. This will prevent termites from establishing a colony under the house. Keep in mind that for the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. If you do not have an active infestation already, you may want to also consider using monitoring stations around your home. I use both the granules and the monitoring stations. I will give you a link to my video on how to make them for under 50 cents each. I put them around my entire house for less than $25. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to apply termite granules: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H7rW_TSBHJ4.html Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Fy7YHi_7Z8g.html Video on how to make monitoring stations: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gye27aXHRsY.html
I just found a mud tube in my unfinished bathroom in the basement coming from the unplumbed toilet on the floor to the ceiling joists and then it disappears into the wall where I cannot see it I punctured a hole in the mud tube and found termites how should I proceed to treat the inside of my home now that I've confirmed I have subterranean termites I believe I should do a trench treatment around the house now I've been watching your videos and they have been very helpful and full of information thank you again
It sounds like you do have subterranean termites, but you should check the species. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. There is a map in that video. If you are in the orange or red areas, then you must identify the species exactly. The video will show you how to do that. If you do not live in the red or orange areas, then you may be able to get away with using termite granules. Please check the species and get back to me. Armed with that information I can assist you better. There could be an easy fix for you. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dIs_a0nfVjg.html
Hello Guy. I do have wood around my home infected by termites and old tree stumps. What should I do. I do not have mud trails along any of the foundation so I think subterranean are not issues. However there is a dying tree that appears to have been infected with dry wood. Last swarming season I poured a soapy citrus oil solution in part of tree to kill the swarm. Let me know what I should do
Please tell me where you live. Location matters. If these are drywood termites, then your house is probably infested already. Drywood termites do not create mud tubes. I suggest that you inspect your home for drywood termites. This video will show you how to do that. If you have drywood termites, I will explain everything you need to know about them. Treating a tree for subterranean termites can be done, but it's not a sure thing. You cannot effectively treat a tree for drywood termites. It is best to remove the tree. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hey Guy, a treasure as always. I found a small mud tube where the concrete meets the soil about a few inches. I sprinkled the granules with Imacloprid. I’m also going to to the trench treatments with Taurus SC, no signs inside the house and the house is concrete blocks Will that suffice sir? All this stuff gives me anxiety, thanks for your unwavering support to us poor folk 😊
There is a good chance that the granules will work without trenching. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules were not a good choice, and you should consider trenching. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time. I have used the granules lots of times and they have never failed me. If you meet the above conditions, then there is a very good chance you are good to go. Keep in mind that both the granules and trenching take up to 12 weeks to work. Also, the granules do not work for Formosan termites. If you don't know the species, please have a look at my video on how to identify termite species. Don't worry. It's not that hard. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Fy7YHi_7Z8g.html Video on how to identify termite species: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dIs_a0nfVjg.html
Thank you for everything you post!! I just liked and subscribed! I think you said that the wood needs to be sealed after Bora care is sprayed. Do you recommend any particular type of paint? I sprayed bora care between some studs while we had an open wall during a remodel but this was last year, we did not paint over as we did not know it needed some type of sealing. We thought that termites crawling on the Bora care surface would contaminate their body and so carry it over into the colony to kill the rest. But if you seal over the treated surface they will not pick it up when passing by that area, is that correct? If incorrect, could you please suggest what type of sealer to use? Thanks a million!!
You only need to seal wood that is exposed to the weather. If you are using Bora-Care inside the house, then it does not need to be sealed at all. You only need to seal it outside because the weather will deteriorate it pretty quickly. Bora-Care penetrates deep into the wood, so the termites will die when they start eating the wood, even if it's sealed. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, I want to thank you for your information. This very helpful in understanding the problem better. I do have a question. I live in an apartment and I see mud tubes coming out with a pile of frass on the floor from the electric socket. On top of that I am and seeing and kick out holes in the gipsum board. I suspect there might be more as a neighbour had a lot termites in his door frame. After they removed the door frame I suspect the termites moved to my apartment. Luckily the building is make with concrete and bricks. I have watched many of your video where creating trench to treat the termites is the solution. In my case the building is surrounded with concrete and cemented roads an pavements. There is no soil or garden here. How would I solve my issue to protect the apartment unit I live in? Secondly, how could I solve the termites in the electrical socket?
Do you suppose you could send me some photos of all of this? I would like to have a look at the mud tubes and the frass. When taking the photos, take one photo as close as you can, and one photo from a bit of a distance. Make sure that the photos are well focused. You can email them too guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. When you send the email, please remind me of the problem. Also, please tell me where you live. When it comes to termites, location matters. Be well my friend.
I have termites in my home that are subterranean. I cant find their entry point and two inspectors couldnt find it either. Im currently treating with Termidor....i hope it works.
Please tell me where you live. Location matters. Also please watch my video on how to trench for subterranean termites. You need to do it correctly for it to work. Be well my friend. Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Fy7YHi_7Z8g.html
Hi Guy. Thanks for all the great videos. I had a question for you. I live in N.E. Kansas and have an unstained porch and an uninsulated roof. For where I live would treat either or both with boracare be a good idea. What about cimexa as a wp for the attic/roof?
You only have subterranean termites in Kansas, and they are not very destructive compared to some other very aggressive species. Treating the floor joists under the house with Bora-Care would be a good idea. It would also be a good idea to treat the porch as well, but you need to seal it 48 hours after treatment. Cimexa is not the best product for the prevention of termites. Bora-Care is way better. I think if you inspect your house every year for termites, then you probably can skip the attic treatment. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, thank you for your videos! It is great to see your video gets more interesting with more editing techniques. They are just fun to watch! I have a questions about fire ants. I am trying to do broadcasting for fire ant control, and noticed top choice is not available for people without licenses. I notice fipronil is the ingredient, and Taurus SC happens to have that. However, it is not labeled for fire ant control, and nobody explained why. Assuming in a imaginary world without legal issues, would TSC be successful at controlling fire ants? I can also Private message you if this is a more sensitive question. Thanks! Always good to see new videos from you!
Fire ants are actually really easy and you can take them out overnight. Please watch my video on how to treat fire ants. This will kill all the mounds for under $10 for your entire yard in most cases. However, they are probably in the neighbor's yard as well, so to stop them from returning you need to treat the entire yard with Bifen XTS. I have a video on how to do that as well. So, treat the fire ants first, then the next day after they are all dead, follow up with the yard treatment. You need to do the yard treatment about every 60 days to keep them from visiting again. Now, they don't always come back, so you may want to just try the fire ant treatment first and see how that works out. If they come back, then treat them again and start doing the yard treatment. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat fire ants: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VReLWuT-jcQ.html Video on how to treat your yard: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wifoTU5dmp0.html
I bought my home 30+ years ago. The sellers had the front buried behind tall pine trees. I had the inspector give the OK on pests. The pine at the corner of my porch was close enough , you could climb and step onto the roof! I had them all removed as soon as I moved in. There was a heavy coat on pine needles on the porch roof as well. So the hot day that I had the trees removed, and needles cleaned up, I came home from work to find hundreds of carpenter ants scurrying out of the roof sheathing above my gutters!! A lot were carrying eggs as well. Talk about panicking! I sprayed them as they exited with bug killer, and they dropped and died. Called the inspector, and he came back and shot, what I think now, might have been fipronil. He said if any are left in there ,this will get them out. So apparently they were gone. The heat of the sun , now baking the roof was too much for them. No longer cool and damp. I had to cut about 2 feet of plywood off the whole front edge, where it was obvious they were nesting . Later on I would still seen carpenter ants walking around the ground , and bought a bag of diazinon crystals and sprinkled bands of about 4 feet all around the perimeter ofmy home, and that apparently cleared them all. But I kept repeating later on if I seen a few hanging around. If you watch those ants closely, you will see them taking the same trail back and forth passing other ants along the way. Sure enough, those trails got a taste of my goodies!! Im not sure you can even buy diazinon in stores anymore. It was good stuff for sure
You can do the same thing with Bifen XTS and a hose end sprayer. It's quick and easy. I have a video on how to do that. I treat my entire yard with it every 60 days. You can also treat the exterior of you house as well. This will stop almost all pests from getting into your home. There are a few exceptions, but not many. I will give you the links. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat your yard: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wifoTU5dmp0.html Video on how to treat the exterior of your house: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Yozv3s-Qwlw.html
Thank you so much for your great advice, I have one of these rotten trees in my backyard, and it's already full with termites, any advice will be appreciated to deal with this issue.
Drill holes that are about 12 inches apart around the base of the tree that are on a downward angle, so that the drill bit is aiming under and to the center of the tree. You want to use a drill bit that is at least 12 inches long and at least 1/2 inch wide. The longer the better. Also drill holes right into the tree, a couple of inches above the dirt. You want them about 6 inches apart around the entire tree. Drill these holes in a downward angle toward the center of the tree. After the holes are all drilled, then mix Taurus SC at 0.8 oz per gallon and fill up the holes with it. You can mix it in a bucket and use a funnel to get it into the holes. You can also drill some holes down into the ground at a 90 degree angle, that are about 6 inches apart, and fill them up with the Taurus SC as well. There is a good chance that the termites will contact the Taurus SC and bring it back to the colony and share it with the other termites. This will kill the entire colony. If the colony is dead, then the termites will not be alive to attack you house. After the colony is dead, then remove the tree. If the tree is alive, it probably will not survive this treatment. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html?sub_id=1817
Thank you so much. You are the best. I have watched all your videos, and I've learned a lot. Can you tell me what type of termites I have? I live in Seattle, WA ru-vid.comaYV6t38KNjc?si=t695b_Wqz8v8PiV2
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. I'm sorry. The link you gave me did not work. In Seattle WA, the most common species are Western subterranean termites. They can be somewhat difficult to detect, and they can be fairly destructive. They can often attack without mud tubes showing. This can make them hard to spot. They also have the ability to colonize in your home. I hope that helps. Please note that I will be out of town for a couple of weeks, and I may not be able to answer questions until I return. I will get back to you when I get home if you have any more questions. Sorry about that. I have not taken my wife on a vacation for 13 years and she explained to me that it's time. I got the message. Lol.
Hi Guy! Thank you for your video! I have two questions: 1. Can you have kick out and exit holes in brick? 2. If we notices dead insects that resemble termites in our attic but no damage is done to the wood around the dead insects, would that be termites?
While it is very unusual to have kickout holes and exit holes in brick, it is possible. Termites cannot eat through bricks and mortar, but there can be weep holes or cracks in the mortar that can allow termites to escape, and it is somewhat feasible that they could use those cracks to push out frass. Again, this would be quite uncommon. The best thing to do with dead insects it to identify them. They could be termites. Termites do not live long in the open because the air dehydrates them. So, it is very common to see dead termite swarmers laying around. Please watch my video on how to photograph a bug and take a photo of one of the specimens. It must be done correctly for me to identify it. Please note that iPhones are not good for this. Androids work much better. So, if you have an android or know someone with one, then that would be best. However, if an iPhone is all you have, then by all means, have a go at it. The worst that happens is that the photo will not focus well enough for me to ID it. By the way, I will be on vacation starting on Monday. We have not taken a vacation in 15 years and my wife explained that it is time to do that. So, I will not be back until June 11. My wife puts up with me helping thousands of people with their pest problems all day long, so she does deserve to get pampered for a couple of weeks. If you have more questions, I promise that I will get back to you just as soon as possible upon my return. I'm sure that I will have several hundred questions backed up by then, but I will work as quickly as possible to try and get through all of them in a week. So, don't worry. I won't forget about you, and I will ID the specimen for you, if at all possible. Be well Mattie. Video on how to photograph a bug: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-I8qd63hX6y8.html
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words and for the tip. Both are very much appreciated. Please tell me where you live. When it comes to termites, location matters because different areas of the US and other places in the world have different species. Some subterranean species require additional treatment sometimes and not all termites are subterranean. I just want to make sure that you are going after a species where trenching alone will work. 90% of the time that is the case, but let's make sure. Thanks for watching. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions your welcome, I’m in north GA, i have made a big mistake purchasing a house with now apparent termite damage and it’s pretty significant. That’s spilled milk at this point though. Anyhow I haven’t been able to catch any of the boogers yet. I do think I’ve seen a flying example. It seemed to be an orange-ISH color. Maybe in the email later I’ll be able to get some pictures of the damage. I’m not quite sure if it’s tubes or not. there are some dirt trails, but it seems too small compared to the places/channels they’ve eaten.
@@roz4747 Sorry for the delay in responding to you. I have been away for the last three days and I was not able to answer questions. I am back now and I'm working hard to try and catch up. I have about 300 unanswered questions to get to. Hopefully, I will get caught up by mid week. You have two main species where you live and one of them can be very problematic. However, the most common species is very easy to eliminate. If flying termite is orange, then you have a big problem because that happens to be the species that is problematic. So, please get a flathead screwdriver and dig into the damaged area and try to pull out a termite with a red head. If you can get one, then put it in a jar and let it die a natural death. Then take a photo of it and send it to me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Please watch my video on how to properly photograph a bug. The photo needs to be taken correctly. You can also send a photo of a swarmer if you like. Those are the ones that fly. After I see one of these guys I will be ale to tell you what to do. Be well my friend. Video on how to properly photograph a bug: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-I8qd63hX6y8.html
Hi Guy, Great explanation. So, if I do have an active infestation, should I skip granules (imidacloprid) and go for Taurus SC? Am I late for granules? I didn't see any mud trails coming from the ground around the house. I have brick veneer. A few days ago after a heavy rain, black color insects (about 10-15) came down through the attic. I saw a couple of them in the bathtub and sink but I no longer see them. From your previous video, I assume they are dry wood termites.
This may or may not be termites. The next time you see one, catch it and and put it in a jar. Then let it die a natural death. Then you can properly identify it. If it's black, then it could be a subterranean termite or it could be a carpenter ant. If you can catch one, we can figure out what it is. If it is termites, you may be able to use the granules, depending on the species and ground conditions. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching, if you have an active infestation. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. If you do not have an active infestation of subterranean termites already, you may want to also consider using monitoring stations around your home. I use both the granules and the monitoring stations. I will give you a link to my video on how to make them for under 50 cents each. I put them around my entire house for less than $25. You may also want to watch my videos on how to identify termites species and the video on how to tell the difference between carpenter ants and termites. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to apply termite granules: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H7rW_TSBHJ4.html Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Fy7YHi_7Z8g.html Video on how to make monitoring stations: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gye27aXHRsY.html Video on how to identify termites species: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dIs_a0nfVjg.html Video on how to tell the difference between carpenter ants and termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-enJPS-h70Bs.html
Unfortunately, I do not have a video on slugs, but Solutions Pest and Lawn has a pretty good one. I will give you a link to it. If you cannot buy the Ficam from them, then try buying Niban from domyown.com because they ship to more places. Both products work the same way. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat slugs: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8hhhL7qh9qw.html Ficam from Solutions: www.solutionsstores.com/ficam-insect-bait Niban from Do My Own: www.domyown.com/niban-granular-bait-lb-shaker-p-1487.html
Hi Guy, I just found 2 Formosan swarmers with no wings in my bathroom. According to your video, subterranean termites can only colonize via the ground. Does this mean they won’t colonize inside the house? I’m in houston Texas and I think they’re swarming now. Thanks for your videos.
You got that correctly. Formosan termites will not start a colony in your home. However, Formosan swarmers look a lot like drywood swarmers. Make sure that you identified the species correctly. Drywood swarmers do start new galleries in your home. They are very common in Houston. Also, regardless of the species, these guys came from somewhere. When you find swarmers in the house, that usually means that you have an existing infestation. I recommend that you do a thorough inspection of your home. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
My relative in Florida has subterranean termites, I am told Eastern Subterranean termites from a pest control company that took a specimen found in the attached garage). There are several mud tubes in the garage wall mostly away from the house, but also a mud tube near the house wall which happens to be a wood wall. I understand that trench & treat around the whole house is the way to go, but years ago my relative had the area all around the house dug up and added rock, actually in hopes of not getting termites. not aware of any termites at that time. What is the best way to trench & treat with rocks next to foundation all the way around the house? Pest control companies want to drill into the concrete garage floor, tiled back patio behind the garage, and possibly the small front tiled patio. How do we know if drilling is necessary? House is on concrete slab with no crawl space. We first found the subterranean termites in a piece of plywood just lying against the garage wall. We threw it in the trash upon discovery (before I watched your video). My relative has had some dead trees cut down and removed, but didn't know to remove the stumps (2 large trees on opposite sides of the house). Garage was once a carport turned into a garage. It has no sheetrock inside the garage/ 2x4 framing is exposed so it is easier to get to the damage. Sounds like the house will need to have the trench & treat, wait 90 days, confirm termites are gone then have rotten wood replaced. Will the new wood need to be sprayed? Or not necessary because termites should all be irradiated at that point?
If you get this, please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. I did respond to this question, but it looks like RU-vid deleted it. They do that sometimes and I don’t know why. So sorry. Just copy your original comment and past it into the email. Also, please give me your RU-vid name. Be well my friend.
Hello guy, I live north of you in SC. I am interested in starting my own pest control business. Currently, I treat my own home using your techniques. What steps do I need to take to get started? Thanks!
I think all states require you to be licensed to be in the pest control business. Licensing requirements vary from state to state. I don't know what that is in SC, but here in Florida, you need to work for a licensed pest controller for two years and then pass a written test. When I was first licensed in 1981, all you needed to do was pass a written test, but it has gotten a lot more difficult since then. It is always a good idea to start by working for a licensed pest controller. This gives you a chance to get your feet wet in different situations. You can learn how to deal with customers and, if you're lucky, you can learn some good business practices as well. You want to work for a locally owned mom and pop outfit and not a national company. You will learn a lot more that way and you can ask a lot more questions. If you branch off on your own, then start small. Start doing it on your days off until you have enough customers to support doing it full time. Use cheap advertising like Craig's List or those junk fliers you get in the mail. Carry a work cell phone at all times. If you cannot answer the phone, then get back to people immediately. If you don't, they will be calling someone else. Always ring the bell and let the customer know that you are there and spend a few minutes chatting about their family, hobbies, interests, and so forth. Keep notes on how many kids they have, their names, ages, pets, hobbies, and so forth. Read that before arriving every time and ask them things like, "How is Mary feeling? The last time I was here you said she had the flu." or "Did you ever figure out how to get Maxie to stop chewing on the furniture?" Remember, people love to talk about themselves and not you. If you answer a question about you, then keep it short and go back to discussing the customer. Find out everything about your customers and show empathy. Never offer advice about anything other than pest control. Never give excuses. Just fix the problems when you get complaints. When customers see you as family, they are way less likely to complain, and much more likely to refer you to others. You want them to look forward to seeing you more for your company than for your services. This is just the tip of the iceberg. There is a lot to know when you are going into business. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
How you handle that will depend on the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dIs_a0nfVjg.html
Hi guy, i want to thank you for all that super valuable information. Please keep it up and keep spreading that knowledge and experience. I live in Houston TX and i seen window sill trim and floor trim start apearing some holes in it. Called my pest control which i never used. My house was built in 2011 and spose to have termite barriers installed and trated for termites. I have concrete slab foundation. So inspector found one mud tube on outside wall right under that window which had those holes appeared. So inspector removed that mud tube and gave me about quote of about 3k to treat. I started watching all around my parameter for mud tubes and destroy it one more time, keep spraying with regular home depot pest sprey. Did not see more damage or tubes for almost a year but now i want to do it my self with taurus sc. Do you think that i should remove sheet rock and check for damage behind the sheet rock or just do the treatment?. I can email you pictures of those holes in windows sill trim
You are very welcome. I am a little concerned because you live in Houston and the holes are in the window sill trim. This could be drywood termites if you are not seeing any more mud tubes. I would remove that window sill trim and see if you can obtain a specimen with a red head. Those are the soldiers and the easiest to identify. If you can get one, then put it in a jar and let it die a natural death. Then we can figure out what species you are dealing with. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. Don't worry. It's not that hard to do. After I know the species I can tell you exactly how to treat it. In the meantime, please stop using the Home Depot stuff. It can actually make the problem worse. I would not remove the drywall just yet. I would only do that if these turn out to be Formosan termites. For now, let's just see what is under that trim. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FN7JyBNSooY.html
Thank you so much for quick response, I will remove that trim and see if I can find live specimens which I highly doubted. Since those holes are at least 2 to 3 years old and did not increase in size. I will update tomorrow after removing that trim. Already emailed you picture with subject Houston home termite
@@zeeshansaeed1369 Okay. Thanks. I looked at the photos. While there is no activity in those holes, that may only be because termites cannot be exposed to the air or they die. They may have moved to a safer part of the wood. If they are nowhere to be found after removing the baseboard, then the colony may be dead. If you do find active termites, then you want a specimen with a red head. Sometimes it is just old damage and the colony has already been treated. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Yes I removed floor trim and window sill trim and couldn't find live termite. Will send you pictures of removed pannel and found no damage to sheet rock. With floor trim removed when I tap on wall joints with rubber hammer did not see any dust falling or hear anything. Those holes are at least 3 years old. So please let me know what you recommend?.should I still dig around my parameter and use Taurus sc and fill fuse foam (termiticide) before I put new base boards?
@@zeeshansaeed1369 If you are not seeing any activity, then the colony is probably dead. I would treat all new wood with Bora-Care before installing it. I will give you a link to the product and a link to a video on how to use it. Mix it one to one with water and not one to five. You can mix small amounts of it. For the outside, I would do a preventive treatment. You may be able to do that with granules. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider monitoring stations. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. Since you do not have an active infestation already, you may want to also consider using monitoring stations around your home. I use both the granules and the monitoring stations. I will give you a link to my video on how to make them for under 50 cents each. I put them around my entire house for less than $25. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html Video on how to use Bora-Care: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Rmr_aEodyhg.html Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to apply termite granules: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H7rW_TSBHJ4d.html Video on how to make monitoring stations: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gye27aXHRsY.html
Mr Guy were do you buy your sprayer.what can you use to spray floor joice rafters.i used the trenching method around the house an patio driveway.tarus sc.then 45 days I use talstar p.an what you recommend for dry wood termites.want to treat for all.i have no termites or any bugs.thanks for the advice.
Sorry for the late response. I was on vacation for 2 weeks. You can treat floor joists and rafters with Bora-Care. Mix it 1 to 1 with water and not 1 to 5. Cold water works fine. I will give you a link to the product and a link to a video on how to use it. This will render the wood permanently termite proof. The trenching should protect you from subterranean termites for 5 to 10 years. To protect your house from drywood termites, you need to treat the outside every 60 days. I have a video on how to do that. This is a generic video that covers a lot of bugs, but it also works for drywood termites. Just ignore the part of the video that talks about treating your yard. I treat my entire house with a hose end sprayer, but you can do it with a tank sprayer too. If you buy a tank sprayer, you want one that has at least 65 psi. There are any number of them on Amazon. Personally, I find the hose end sprayer to be much cheaper and faster. The product I use is Bifen XTS. It looks expensive, but it gets mixed at 1/3 ounce per gallon, so it goes a long way. All products shown in the video and links to them are in the video description. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html?sub_id=554 Bora-Care video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Rmr_aEodyhg.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Yozv3s-Qwlw.html
Hello Guy, i have a question about termites in my house. It's in an interior wall of my home, my home has a peer & beam foundation(not a concrete foundation). On your video that i had viewed, you showed how to use the termite killing granules that you sprinkle around your foundation & in flower beds, will this method work in my case? My worry is...that if the termites are getting the soil & moisture from under my home will they still get to the termites treatment that is sprinkled outside my home.
The first thing you need to do is figure out the species. A lot of this depends upon where you live. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. There's a map in that video that will show you where Formosan and drywood termites are a problem. If you live in the red or orange areas on the map, then please let me know. Otherwise, you live in an area with the granules should work just fine. With a pier home, you basically have multiple foundations. That is to say, each pier is its own foundation. So, if you treat around each pier, then even if the termites have a colony directly under the house, they still cannot build a mud tube up one of those piers. Of course, one of the problems we often run into with pier homes is that some of the house is so low to the ground that you cannot access the piers. Please let me know if that is the case, and I will offer you some possible solutions. Also, please get back to me if you live in the red or orange areas on the map. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to one of the piers that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to apply termite granules: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H7rW_TSBHJ4.html Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Fy7YHi_7Z8g.html Video on how to identify termite species: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dIs_a0nfVjg.html
Hi Guy! I coukd teally use your advice. I have termites and have treated them 3 times by 2 different pest conyrol companies. Problem is they are still here. I got swarming last season and i am seeing tubes come from the ceiling in a spot that has been repaired. Im not sure how to treat this. Ive opened the ceiling (a quarter of it) where the tubes were and the damage is insane. My idea is to spray the damaged wood with Bora Care like i did in my basement. This ceiling is plaster. Not sure if i should tear all the plaster and iron wire to see if the rest of the wood is damaged as well. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks
Please tell me where you live. This sounds a lot like Formosan termites. If they are, then this is a serious problem that many pest controllers get wrong. This species is very destructive and can destroy a house within a few months. I'm not saying that is what you have, but it sounds a lot like them. They only exist in certain areas of the US and some other countries. So, if you live in a southern coastal state, California, or Hawaii, then this could be your problem. Some companies try to treat Formosan termites with a baiting system like Sentricon, but that often is not going to end well. Other companies understand that you must trench for these guys, but they don't realize that you also need to treat the inside of the home as well. For more information on Formosan termites and how to tell if you have them, please watch my video on how to identify termite species and my video on how to treat Formosan termites. After watching these videos, please get back to me and let me know if you think I may be correct. If I am, we can explore your options. If I am not correct, then we can try and figure out the species and the best way to approach the problem. I hope that helps. Be well Kelita. Video on how to identify termite species: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dIs_a0nfVjg.html Video on how to treat Formosan termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xDtGUWxMrRw.html
Buy Bifen LP a pply it on your lawn at a rate of 1.15 pounds per 1000 square feet of lawn, using a push spreader or broadcast spreader. Water it in with Bifen XTS, using a hose end sprayer. I have a video on how to do that and I will give you the link. The granules will treat below the soil surface and the Bifen XTS will treat above the surface, and it will melt the granules into the soil. This combination should do the trick. It will also prevent a variety of other pests as well. All the products needed to use the Bifen XTS are listed in the video description, along with the links. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Bifen LP: www.domyown.com/bifen-lp-insecticide-granules-p-227.html Video on how to treat your yard with Bifen XTS using a hose end sprayer: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wifoTU5dmp0.html
Hello Guy! I tent my house few years ago to eliminate Drywall termites, now I found again some wings and residues in my house and I will end up doing the tent again. My question is there a way to treat the trees near by my house, I have the suspicious that the Drywall termites might come from those trees. thank you
With drywood termites, you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. It's not just the trees that are the problem. If you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. They swarm every year for several months, so you WILL get reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. There is a way to prevent this from happening, but pest controllers will not do it. You must do it yourself. I will give you a link to my video on how to treat the exterior of your home. This is a generic video that covers a lot of pests, so just ignore the part about treating your yard. You do not need to treat your yard for drywood termites. Just the outside of your house. You must do this every 60 days or the termites will return. It takes 4 to 7 years before drywood termites can produce swarmers, so it can take that long before you realize that you are reinfested, but I can assure you that the termites will be paying you a visit within a year if you do not do the preventive treatment faithfully every 60 days. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat the outside of your house: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Yozv3s-Qwlw.html
@@GuysPestSolutions l have another question. So I am guessing the most effective way should be to do the tent to kill whatever is inside and the prevention treatment to keep them away. And what about usage of non repellent insecticide to kill the colony can that be applied for drywall termites?
@@patadaindienews It is possible to spot treat drywood termite galleries using a fipronil foam. If you can find the galleries, then it is actually pretty easy to treat them. I have a video on how to do that and I will give you a link to it. The problem is finding the galleries. I don't care how good you are, even the best pest controllers that have been doing this for many years, still miss galleries. That is because a gallery can sometimes be as small as the size of a peanut. They can be so small that they are impossible to detect. If you miss even one gallery, then the termites are going to continue to spread throughout your house. They enter your house through cracks and crevices in the eaves, around doors and windows, and pipe penetrations. After they get in the house, it takes about 4 to 7 years before they can produce swarmers. After the swarmers leave the galleries, they will use holes in the wall studs to travel throughout your walls. The holes in the studs were drilled by the electricians to run the wiring. There are also holes going up to the attic, and the crawl space as well, if you have one. In other words, by the time you realize you have these things in your house, then you probably have them in many locations throughout the building. It's not like you just need to locate one gallery and then treat it. You could have dozens of galleries in your home that you do not know about. While it is possible to find a lot of them, it is almost impossible to find them all. This is why fumigation is the recommended solution to the problem. Please let me know if you decide to do the fumigation and I will give you some safety tips that you need to know. Also, prices can vary a great deal of this industry, so please watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-U7ck7zhS0Xo.html Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y-a8XOqVrlE.html
Guy, I just had a whole house Reno done and the contractor found a small (12” long)mud tube inside the front of the house under a piece of baseboard molding They did not open the wall to check how much of an infestation, but I did call in a pest control company who put bait stations around the perimeter of the house. It is a slab foundation and there are no signs of mud tubes anywhere else. There is a slab ( 10’ of front porch) in front of the area that has the mud tube. I did spay termite killer into the cracks of the veneer and slab multiple times. I am going to use the Bio-Advanced 700350A around the house and water it in. I am in New Jersey , near the coast with sandy soil. Can you advise me if I’m doing the correct process?
The good news is that you live in New Jersey because you only have one species of termites there and they are very easy to treat. The bad news is that you live in New Jersey and they have just made it illegal to sell the termite granules. If you can obtain the granules, that would probably be a very good way for you to go. Even though the granules have been banned in New Jersey, Amazon may still ship them to you. If you cannot obtain the granules, then you can wait for the baiting system to work, or you trench around the house. New Jersey still has not banned Taurus SC, and that is what you need to do the trenching. I will give you a link to the granules and a link to my video on how to trench, in case you cannot obtain the granules, and you don't want to take a chance on the baiting system. The bait stations that were installed may get the job done, but it is going to be slow. The granules or trenching will eliminate the colony at about 12 weeks. It can take up to two years if you use a bait system. Sometimes the bait system will take out the colony in as little as 6 months, but sometimes it doesn't work at all. Pest control companies like to use bait because it is easy to do and they make a lot of money on it, but I never recommend doing that for an active infestation. I'm sure they tied your hands in a contract for at least a year, so I recommend that you dump them as soon as the contract will allow. Meanwhile, if the termites find the bait stations, which will usually happen, then these stations will usually eliminate the colony. You should also know that the kind of termites you have are very slow eaters, so it takes time for them to do a lot of damage. So, it would not be the end of the world if you relied solely on this bait, but the termites will go on eating your home while the bait is working. Spraying the termite killer into the cracks was not a good idea, but I see people do this all the time. Termites are pretty scary and people usually have kind of a knee-jerk reaction, and feel the need to do something right away. Unfortunately, treating termites like this is one of the worst things that you can do. It's okay though because you can effectively treat this species from the ground. If you had not treated them like that, we could have turned that area into and effective bait, but that is no longer an option. Please do not feel bad about that though because everybody does it. The problem is still very treatable with the granules, trenching, or simply waiting for those bait stations to work. The bottom line is, if I were in your situation, I would try to obtain the granules. If I could not do that, then I would wait for the bait to do it's job. Most likely the bait will take out the colony, albeit somewhat slowly. It's your home though, so if you cannot find the granules and you want the termites gone fast, then you would need to trench. Please note that there are 2 kinds of granules that are made by Bayer. You need the ones that use imidacloprid as the active ingredient. The other one does not work. The correct granules are no longer available from the big box stores. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Fy7YHi_7Z8g.html Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder_k0_1_6&=&crid=2TE2I7P521RVR&sprefix=termit&th=1 Video comparing trenching to baiting for termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jrPrr5DdB_g.html
3 месяца назад
Purchased a home and got a clean bill of health on no active termites. 1 year later and found major infestation. Had a termite company come out and installed sentricon stations in the ground for active Formosan and sub terrain termite's (3k worth of stations). Currently 6 months into this process with them and still very active termites inside the house. Found over a 100 eating on the above ground stations last week. Have holes in the wall that we opened up and found where they have ate the floor decking, exterior wall decking, trim moldings and 2x4's to nothing left. They are eating away at the house and the company doesn't seem to care about getting these termites killed. They put in above ground bait stations that they come back every 2 weeks and replace the bait. Need a true professional if you know anyone in the Lake Jackson, TX area that actually is a professional in termites. Was told to not touch anything or start demo til everything is cleared out. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I am so sorry that this happened to you. In my personal opinion, you should never use a bait system to try to treat an active infestation of Formosan termites. The reason for this is that almost all baits, like Sentricon, use an insect growth regulator (IGR) instead of an actual pesticide that works on the nervous system. The only thing an insect growth regulator does is it prevents the termites from reproducing. Unfortunately, termite workers can live up to two years, and IGRs do nothing to kill them. Further, unlike other species of subterranean termites where the colony only contains a couple of hundred thousand termites, with Formosan colonies, they can contain millions of termites. These guys branch out into multiple directions from the colony in search of food. So, a lot of food is being brought back to that massive colony. There is no knowing if the queen will actually eat the food that is being provided by the bait stations at your house. If you get lucky, the queen will eat that bait and stop producing offspring. Even if that happens, it can still take a very long time for all the workers that are eating your house to die. Meanwhile, Formosan termites are very fast eaters, and they will do a massive amount of damage to your home in a very short period of time. That is why we call them "super termites." For all these reasons, I am not a big fan of trying to use a bait to kill off a Formosan termite colony. In my opinion, the only way to approach this problem is to trench around the entire house and treat with a fipronil termiticide, such as Termidor SC, Taurus SC, or similar product. If you have time, please watch my video comparing baiting to trenching. My recommendation is to do the trenching yourself, so that you know it was done correctly. You cannot even trust a lot of pest control companies to do the trenching the right way. Please watch my video on how to treat Formosan termites. After you trench, then you need to look for cartons inside the house. Formosan termites are one of the few species that is capable of colonizing in your home. They do this by building cartons in your walls and other voids, like above the ceiling. These cartons give them the ability to survive without returning to the colony. So, to eliminate the entire infestation, you must also find and remove these cartons. My video will show you how to find them. With regard to the pest control company that you are currently working with, you need to understand that treating this yourself will probably violate your contract. So, you need to decide if that is worth doing. Keep in mind that the termites may be eating your home for a very long time if you do not do it and they are very fast eaters. The company should still be replacing the bait and servicing the contract, but they will probably not stand behind any damage that was done. Of course, you should also be aware that it is highly unlikely that the company would stand behind the damage anyway. Please watch my video on termite warranties and bonds. In that video I explain most of the gotchas that will exist in the contract. One of those gotchas is that they are most likely not responsible for any damage that is done before the colony is eradicated. That means that they are not responsible for any of the damage that is being caused right now. Further, I would be willing to bet the ranch that you will also find an arbitration clause in the contract. That means you cannot sue them for any reason. Therefore, since their warranty is not worth the paper it is written on, and you cannot take them to court, you may as well just go ahead and take care of this yourself. Anyway, that is exactly what I would do. Unfortunately, because of the way the contract is written, it is unlikely that you will get your money back. Again, I am so sorry that this happened to you. At least now you know the truth. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat Formosan termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xDtGUWxMrRw.html Video explaining termite warranties: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lWUdyyxotjg.html Video comparing baiting to trenching: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jrPrr5DdB_g.html
3 месяца назад
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you so much for this response. I got more accurate and honest information from you in this response than I have in 6 months of this process. I was highly mis lead on the in ground stations but now I'm aware of what there its true job is. I'm a active DIY'er so I just purchased the Taurus and will be doing the trenching. The house sits on 12x12 beams with closed foam insulation under the floor decking so I'll be doing it around the beams. We do get mothers day swarmer termites every year and was wondering if I should spray with Bifen I/T or stick with the Taurus around all the windows and under the house? I also have a bottle of Navigator SC and Termidor SC left I haven't done anything with yet. There is a clause in the contract I signed. They were focused on one 10x10 area in the bathroom for 3 months and I had to take matters into my own hands and start opening walls in the bedroom to show them where they additionally were. At this point the amount of damage they have additionally done out ways any contract and warranty with them. Its pennies on the dollar compared to the damage being done. Just want to say thank you again for pointing me in the right direction. It is greatly appreciated sir.
Is your house on piers? If so, trench around each pier the same way you would a foundation. The Termidor SC and the Navigator SC is the same thing as the Taurus SC, so you can use what you have. Trenching correctly is the key. That will eliminate the underground colony. Then it's just a matter of fining all the cartons and removing them. Thank you so much for those very kind words. If you would like to repay me, then please pass me along to others who may be in need of pest control advice. A recommendation is the greatest compliment you can pay me. My goal is to help as many people as possible and you can help. It would be very much appreciated. I am not exactly saving the world, but I have saved people over 100 million dollars so far, and that is still very rewarding. Be well my friend.
Hey Guy- I'm wondering what you think about PostSaver wraps that people put on fence posts that supposedly protect the wooden posts from termites. The product I've seen is a heat shrinkwrap but they can add up to get pricy. I've also seen this online: "As a whole, the post and lumber specimens indicate an expected durability of over 50 years for creosote-treated wood and over 60 years for wood treated with pentachlorophenol, copper naphthenate, ACZA, or CCA." What's the best way to treat yard posts and deck posts so they don't get eaten by termites? It might make even make an interesting video- just an idea tx
The post saver wraps will not do anything to protect against termites, but they may do a good job extending the life of the fence posts. Fence posts usually rot out at the dirt line. The wraps can prevent this. The reason this happens is because the dirt is in direct contact with the post. What I do is I set the post in concrete so that the concrete covers about 2 inches of the post above the dirt line and then I slope it down to the ground so water cannot remain in contact with the post. This also prevents them from rotting. Both methods keep the water away from the post at ground level and that prevents the rotting. Fence posts are usually rated for ground contact. That means they are already treated for termites. So, it takes a long time for ground contact lumber to become infested with termites. Over time the termite treatment can wane and you can get termites, but it usually takes a long time. Deck posts are not always ground contact rated. When that is the case you should treat them with Bora-Care and then seal them in some way. I will give you a link to the product and a video on how to use it. I also recommend a termite prevention program. If you tell me where you live I can make some recommendations about how to do that. Different locations have different species. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html Bora-Care video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Rmr_aEodyhg.html
@@GuysPestSolutions great thank you! Yes I suspected the sleeves were something of a gimmick. Some people paint the bottoms of posts with tar also not sure how much that helps
@@c.rutherford The tar will probably prevent the rot as well, but none of these things will protect against termites because the post is in the ground. The termites travel under ground, so they will just go under the tar, wrap, or whatever you cover the post with. You would need to wrap it from the bottom of the post to above the ground. That could work if there are not gaps in the wrap. Same for taring it. Again, the posts are usually rated for ground contact, so termite treatment is not necessary. Be well my friend.
Hi guy! I'm back unfortunately. I'll make it quick because I know you help a lot. I have subterranean termites. I previously got rid of them with your advice of trenching with Taurus sc. Did great until they came under my foundation through the hole where my toilet is. What do I do to get them out now? Thank you!
Please tell me where you live. Location matters because species vary in different areas of the country. This sounds like it may be an aggressive species, but let's make sure. Please tell me if that bathroom is located on an exterior wall or if it is more toward the interior of the home. Be well my friend.
@GuysPestSolutions houston texas. They are formoson termites. Seem pretty aggressive. Toilet is on the more exterior and is a few feet away from where they were coming in originally about a year ago.
@@Lipster09TwitchTV I think RU-vid deleted my response to this. They delete about 30% of my responses. Please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com and put Reference Number 071720241 in the subject line. For now, please do nothing. You don't want to make it any worse. I will help you get it fixed. Be well my friend.
I have had 5 pest exterminator so far come out for termites seems non can agree on the species, Dry wood or Formosan termite. I have collected a few in a baggie. So how can I tell no wings found.
To be fair, it is very hard to identify swarmers that do not have wings. That begs the question, "where are the wings?" Please email photos of these guys and I will have a look. Also, please watch my video on how to properly photograph a bug. The photos need to be taken a certain way for me to have any chance of identifying them. Do not use an iPhone because they are not good with close-up photography. Androids work way better for this. If you do not own an android, then try to find someone that does and ask them to assist you. I cannot promise that I can identify them either, but I will give it my best shot. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters with termites. Please note that I am on vacation, and I will not be home until after June 11, so I may not be able to look at the photos until I get home. So, please be patient, I will get caught up as quickly as possible. Be well my friend. Video on how to properly photograph a bug: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-I8qd63hX6y8.html
Hi Guy! QUESTION PLEASE. Thanks for all vids and work you do! I have a quick question.. Im in Florida and have found termites in my raised garden beds. Is there a safe way to destroy them so the chemicals dont hurt my soil or plants? Would borax be acceptable treatment. Ive read all kinds of things and just not sure how to get rid of them out of my raised garden beds. Thanks!
I can assist you with that. Please tell me how close the garden beds are to the house. This is very important because of where you live. To treat the garden bed, I recommend using a bait. If you can find active termites, then install a bait station directly in the ground where you are seeing the termites. It is a good idea to "seed" the station with a few live termites. Just put a few of them in the station after you bury it. You can make a bait station yourself that will kill off the colony in about 12 weeks or you can buy a commercial one that may take up to 2 years. I will give you a link to my video on how to make them and a link to the commercial stations. This treatment will not harm the plants or get into any food that is being grown. With the commercial stations the bait is sold separately. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to make termite bait stations: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-r05Z-aUJehw.html Commercial bait stations: www.domyown.com/advance-termite-bait-station-p-148.html Commercial bait: www.domyown.com/trelona-compressed-termite-bait-box-cartridges-p-17220.html
@@GuysPestSolutions They are about 25 feet away.. Last year I did find some termites inside of MY HOUSE which I eradicated quickly using a pest control company but now I am a little nervous there may some more in the house... it's kind of like snakes you NEVER see just one..i had the perimeter treated w the drill and inject method, but they coukdnt get the south side of house facing the beds bc of a deck aginst the house..
@@GuysPestSolutions i watched the bait station vid. Im curious now bc the termites we found in house were under a tub on 2nd floor, had a hidden leaky faucet the hd attached mud tubes to..heres whats interesting..they had a case i think he called it..looked like a cardboard box where queen was..we eliminated that. He said not to worry about few that got way, they wouldnt survive without water..we capped off leak so its dry..what kind did i have since they had a nest by the leak? Thx again
@@aaronmalone4540 Please tell me where you live. These guys sound a lot like Formosan termites. If that is the case, then you could have a big problem. Try go obtain a specimen from the garden that has a red head. Put it in a jar and let it die a natural death. Then watch my video on how to identify termite species. You will very quickly find out if this is a Formosan termite. You cannot mistake the head. If these are Formosan termites, then we have a lot to discuss and you need to take action quickly. Please get back to me with that information. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dIs_a0nfVjg.html
Guy, i wanted to start by saying thank you for making these videos! I bought a home last year and found no signs of termites with our home inspection, but they had the bait stations around the perimiter of the home. Our home has an addition with exposed wood walls. Signs of an old infestation exist, wooden granules between the boards. I have seen no signs of activity until today. I found a few dead swarmers, less than 10, in the window sill, and many more out the outside of that same window. I have a window ac unit in the window, and i am assuming they were trying to get IN not out, based on the amount of them on the outside near the weather stripping. Where would you recommend i start? Im going to try and identify the type by looking at the swarmers tonight after work. Thank you!
I suggest that you watch my video on how to identify termite species. Look at the map in the video and see if you are in the red or orange areas on the map. Also, look to see what color the body of the swarmers are. Black is good. Red, orange, or brown is bad. This is especially true if you are in the red areas. Please let me know what you think the species is and I will do my best to assist you with it. Please do not try to treat this with products you can buy locally. That can make the problem worse. You need to know the species and then target the treatment toward that species. I can assist you with that. The only thing is that I am on vacation, and I only get internet some of the time. I will be back after June 11, and I will be able to answer all your questions and help devise a treatment plan then. Be well my friend.
The swarmers are black! I pulled up the wood beneath the window and found a small amount of activity, but a decent amount of damage. I'm thinking that this specific part of the home was previously treated, looks like holes were drilled in the boards, and some of the damage looks old/dry. Perhaps another colony moved in or they never killed them completely. At this point I'm planning to remove all of the wood that has any signs of activity, and then repair them. I do wish I had read your comment sooner! I did spray the ones I could see already. This is my first time dealing with termites and of course i just reacted with what I know. I did ask a pest control company to come out next Monday and inspect and they're already trying to sell me on a 2000$ install of the in ground bait stations. Thank you so much for your help! I cannot get underneath this part of the house, there is no crawlspace. Please let me know what you would suggest. And enjoy your vacation! *edit* I live in MD, about 40 minutes south of DC. As far as I can tell, these are subteranean termites. No mud tubes on the outside foundation, but I can't get underneath the addition as previously mentioned. I did keep a few of the dead swarmers in a small jar if you'd like to see them. Lastly, I went ahead and ordered some granules based on some of your other comments, but I'll wait to treat until I hear back from you. Thankfully I could definitely trench it myself if necessary!
I am in a very nice hotel room right now, but I have a very slow internet connection. Please do send me a photo of one of the swarmers. Please look at my video on how to photograph a bug. The photo needs to be taken correctly for me to ID it. This sounds like plain vanilla subterranean termites, but let me have a look to be sure. If this is the case, then granules may work just fine, but for the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. I will check out the photos when I get home. Meanwhile, do not worry. This species are very slow eaters, and it takes them a long time to do serious damage. So, you will be okay until I get back. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to photograph a bug: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-I8qd63hX6y8.html Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to apply termite granules: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H7rW_TSBHJ4.html Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Fy7YHi_7Z8g.html
I've been watching all of your videos related to termites now, I feel pretty prepared to deal with it! I'll get you the photos sometime soon. I purchased the same granules you linked in a reply to someone else, so they have the right active ingredient. I would say about 75% of the house is surrounded by soil, the rest is blacktop pavement from the wrap around driveway, and I believe the addition floors are poured concrete from a previously converted garage. I think I will take a short video to show you what all I'm dealing with. I say all of this because I'm currently trying to figure out where they are getting access to return to the ground, crossing my fingers that only my addition has the infestation. If I am understanding your previous advice, the best thing would be to treat the entire perimiter of the house that has access to soil
@@reeseogle6096 I'm still on vacation, but I am taking a short break to try and answer a few questions. I should be home on June 11. If your house passed the perk test, then the granules will most likely work well for you. I will check out the photos and the video when I get home. It may take me a couple of days because the emails are really piling up and I may not know which one is yours. I will get to it through and see what's going on. Please don't worry. Those termites are going to be toast, no matter where they are coming in from. Be well Reese.
You do need to treat the stump. I will give you the procedure for it. You can usually get away with just using the granules. Keep in mind that For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching, if you have an active infestation. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. If you do not have an active infestation already, you may want to also consider using monitoring stations around your home. I use both the granules and the monitoring stations. I will give you a link to my video on how to make them for under 50 cents each. I put them around my entire house for less than $25. To treat the stump, drill holes in the top of the stump that are about 1/2 inch wide and just as deep as you can make them. You should try to drill them at least 12 inches deep. Ideally, you should drill them about every 4 inches apart, but if that is too much work, just drill as many as you can. The more of them you drill the better. Also drill holes that are about 12 inches apart around the base of the stump that are on a downward angle, so that the drill bit is aiming under and to the center of the stump. After the holes are all drilled, then mix Taurus SC at 0.8 oz per gallon and fill up the holes with it. You can mix it in a bucket and use a funnel to get it into the holes. It's a good idea to put a cork in the stump holes or fill them in with some sort of caulking to keep the rain out of the holes. If the holes are sealed to prevent light and rain from entering, the Taurus SC can last several years. The hope is that termites will find their way into the areas you treated and take the Taurus SC back to the colony and share it with the other termites. Then it's lights out for the entire colony. Sooner or later, they will come in contact with the Taurus SC. They don't know that this is harmful, so they will happily pass right through it and eat wood that is contaminated with it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Fy7YHi_7Z8g.html Video on how to make monitoring stations: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gye27aXHRsY.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Hi Guy, Great explanation. So, if I do have an active infestation, should I skip granules (imidacloprid) and go for Taurus SC? Am I late for granules? Thank you.
@@nukestrom5719 Not at all. The granules work for 95% of homes, even when you have an active infestation. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching, if you have an active infestation. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Fy7YHi_7Z8g.html
I’m watching your videos with interest. We have drywood termites and are going to go ahead and fumigate (tent). I knew a neighbor that did this and the pest control company he used seemed to subcontract the job out to a specialty group. I’m sure the pest control company took their cut for the referral. Any recommendations for the least expensive way to do this? Can I hire a fumigation company directly? Also, I’m assuming you’d recommend that after fumigating you’d do preventative care with the Taurus SC/Talstar P combo? Would you also do the Boracare treatment in addition? I had a free inspection that found some frass and I also have some bubbling in a ceiling area that looks suspicious. One thing I did on my own was use a pinless moisture meter (Klein ET140) to check my walls. Along one wall I consistently had a reading of 11% moisture but in one spot it jumped to 30% along most of the length of the stud. Out of curiosity I wish I had a thermal camera to see the results on that wall. Any comments or recommendations welcome. Thanks!
I am so sorry that you are having this problem. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. So, you do need to fumigate for drywood termites. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. This is a generic video that covers a lot of different pests, but it also works for preventing drywood termites. Just ignore the part about treating your yard. You only need to treat the house for drywood termites. This will not treat the termites that are already there, but it will stop new ones from getting in. You can use Taurus SC and Talstar P, and alternate every 90 days, but I now prefer to treat with Bifen XTS with a hose end sprayer because it is way faster. You need to treat every 60 days instead of every 90 days, but the treatment is a lot easier and faster to do because the hose end sprayer can reach areas that are high up. Regardless of which method you choose, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. You can sometimes find a company that only does fumigations, but most of the time you get a company that farms it out. The important thing is to shop around. Get as many estimates as you can and then take the lowest bidder. DO NOT go back in the house when they tell you it is safe to do so. Wait another 7 days after that before returning home. They do not always get it right and accidents happen every year. This would be a good time to take a 2-week vacation. By the way, I am on vacation, and I only get internet some of the time. I will be back after June 11, and I will be able to answer follow up questions then. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y-a8XOqVrlE.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Yozv3s-Qwlw.html
@@ed9095 You are very welcome. I hope it all goes smoothly. One final note. Accidents do happen with fumigation, so I recommend staying out of the house for an additional 7 days after they tell you it is safe to move back in. If you start to feel sick after moving back in, do not be overly alarmed. They usually add a detection agent to the gas that is designed to make you sick. Sounds crazy. Right? The idea is that you will leave the house if you start feeling sick because you will be afraid of the gas. You should leave too, because if the detection agent is present, then the actual Vikane may be present as well, and that can actually kill you. I also recommend that you bag the mattresses in covers that are designed for bed bugs. They are available on Amazon. This will keep the gas out of the mattresses. People have reported getting sick from residual gas in the mattresses. Do not bag the box springs because they have wood in them, and they may be infested. Okay, now that I have scared the crap out of you, go do it anyway. Trust me. If you are careful, it will be just fine. I am on vacation at the moment, and I should be home on June 11. So, do not be concerned if I do not get back to you right away to answer follow-up questions. I will get caught up just as quickly as possible. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
We plan to be out for a week following the fumigation. We also have a whole house fan and plan to open the windows and allow the fan to run an hour a day during those days. Good idea with the mattress bags, checking Amazon now. Thanks!
I trenched 2 years ago because I saw subt termite damage. Used the no-drill method around slabs. Yesterday I drilled a hole in a joist and termites started falling out of it! Just ordered fipronil foam. I see mud tubes in the basement but all I can find are dried out and appear inactive. My question is how will I know I’ve been successful after drilling and foaming the active joist? I trusted the trench method would have been effective but since it was not, I am concerned about more ongoing damage.
Please tell me where you live. Location matters when it comes to termites. Let's make sure that this is not a different species that needs to be treated differently. You can still go ahead and foam the infested area, but please do it correctly. To spot treat subterranean termites, you need to buy a fipronil foam. I will provide links for two products that you can choose from. I like the FiPro the best because it's a little less expensive and I like the applicator tip better, but the Termidor Foam also works very well. The FiPro is not available everywhere. If you can get one of these foams, then drill holes in all damaged areas, that are 4 inches apart, and drilled about halfway through the wood. If you are seeing exit holes in the wall, then there is most likely a stud behind the exit hole. Get a stud finder and locate the stud where it meets the ceiling and drive a small nail into the stud a couple of inches below the ceiling. Attach a weighted string to the nail and that will show you where the stud is. Then drill the holes 4 inches apart along the entire length of the stud, about 3 inches deep. Do the same thing for woodwork, except only drill the holes halfway through the wood. If you think that there is a 2 x 4 behind the woodwork, then drill a 3-inch-deep hole every 8 inches. The holes only need to be wide enough to get the applicator tip of the foam can into the hole. After the holes are drilled, then shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds or until you have foam either coming back out at you or coming out the other holes that you drilled. All the holes should have foam either going into them or coming out of them. This will contaminate their food source and they will take the fipronil back in the colony and spread it around to the other termites. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. FiPro: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol Termidor Foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html
@@aaronfredrick7705 The good news is that you only have subterranean termites where you live. The bad news is that either something went wrong with the trenching or you may have a colony under the house. You should not be having termites after 2 years. Did you do the trenching the way I show you in my video? If you have not watched that video, then please have a look at it to make sure that you did everything right. If you did, then there is a good chance that the colony is under the house. This does not happen very often, but it does happen. Please tell me about the foundation of the house. Do you have a full basement or a crawl space? If it's a crawl space, does it have a dirt floor? The spot treatment may take care of the problem, but it is very possible that you will need to do a treatment under the house as well. Be well my friend. Video on how to trench correctly for subterranean termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Fy7YHi_7Z8g.html
I believe I followed the instructions correctly, but here I am with termites. The foundation is half basement, half crawl, and the crawl is dirt. I was able to do the foam treatment today where there is activity.
@@aaronfredrick7705 I recommend that you go under the crawl space and look to see if there are mud tubes in contact with the ground. Please get back to me if you see any. If not, then you may want to consider installing monitoring stations around the house. If the termites are attacking, then they will probably find one of the stations and you can treat them there. You can buy them for $15 each or you can make them yourself for 50 cents each. I will give you the links. My video explains how to make the stations and what to do it one goes off. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to make monitoring stations: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gye27aXHRsY.html RedEye stations: www.solutionsstores.com/red-eye-termite-monitor
How can I send photos for accurate Id I moved into a rental landlord lied and said the place had no history of roaches. I haven’t even moved in yet and I’m finding what I think is several different types of roach. Some of my pic are not that great but as time goes on I get better at photo shoot. some of the pics are probably not good enough to Id but I wanna try anyway. It’s been a week and every day I find something or it finds me
Please watch my video on how to properly photograph a bug and send a photo to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. The photo needs to be taken correctly for me to identify the species. Don't worry. It's not hard to do. Please note that I am on vacation, and I will not be home until after June 11, so I may not be able to look at the photos until I get home. So, please be patient, I will get caught up as quickly as possible. Be well Joan. Video on how to properly photograph a bug: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-I8qd63hX6y8.html
To treat tree stumps, drill holes in the top of the stump that are about 1/2 inch wide and just as deep as you can make them. You should try to drill them at least 12 inches deep. Ideally, you should drill them about every 4 inches apart, but if that is too much work, just drill as many as you can. The more of them you drill the better. Also drill holes that are about 12 inches apart around the base of the stump that are on a downward angle, so that the drill bit is aiming under and to the center of the stump. After the holes are all drilled, then mix Taurus SC at 0.8 oz per gallon and fill up the holes with it. You can mix it in a bucket and use a funnel to get it into the holes. It's a good idea to put a cork in the stump holes or fill them in with some sort of caulking to keep the rain out of the holes. If the holes are sealed to prevent light and rain from entering, the Taurus SC can last several years. The hope is that termites will find their way into the areas you treated and take the Taurus SC back to the colony and share it with the other termites. Then it's lights out for the entire colony. Sooner or later, they will come in contact with the Taurus SC. They don't know that this is harmful, so they will happily pass right through it and eat wood that is contaminated with it. Fallen trees are best removed. If you cannot remove the tree, then cut all the limbs and branches off and get rid of them. Then dig a trench around the tree that is 6 inches wide and 6 inches deep. Mix Taurus SC 0.8 oz per gallon in a 5 gallon bucket and apply 4 gallons for every 10 feet of trench. Make some sort of barrier to section off the trench in 10 foot sections or just dig 10 feet at a time. After treating the trench, fill it in with 3 inches of dirt and soak that dirt with the Taurus SC mixture. A common garden watering can works well for this. Finish filling in the trench and then soak it again with the Taurus SC mixture. Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html?sub_id=1817
Do not move the wood. Leave it right where it is and email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. I will explain how to turn that wood into a bait station that will take out the entire colony. RU-vid won't let me post it here. Sorry about that. Be well my friend.
Only drywood termites create kickout holes to push out their excrement? I know a house that had tunnels exposed on concrete block in a garage and when tunnels were wirebrushed away and the block was painted, little brown granules started appearing in tiny holes in the block which I assume are kickout holes but this is in NJ where I thought drywood termites don't really occur.....
You are correct again. There are no drywood termites in NJ. You only have subterranean termites. They do not create kick out holes, but they do create exit holes. The exit holes are used for the swarmers to leave and start new colonies. These guys are not able to colonize in your home, so they will all die. It is very nice of them to come out and let you know that you have a termite infestation though. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks again. I believe that the holes that haven't been plugged by me are cracks that are pretty small but they are pushing brown stuff out which gathers up or bunches up on the wall, and the rest falls to the floor. I suspect they have a path to ground through the inside of the block because the voids were not filled with concrete when the house was constructed. They have revealed their presence to be a currently active one!
@@captainwho1 Unfortunately, since NJ just banned the sale of termite granules, you will need to trench to eliminate the infestation. I will give you a link to my video on how to do that correctly, in case you have not watched it already. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to trench for subterranean termites correctly: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Fy7YHi_7Z8g.html
@@richardwebb9400 Just like trenching, it can take up to 12 weeks to kill off the colony. Keep in mind that for the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon, except in NJ. I will give you a link to them, so that you can see what they look like. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to apply termite granules: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H7rW_TSBHJ4.html
Hey please answer my comment I don’t know what to do I can’t afford 700 dollar pest control company to come out and put bait stations down I have no termites inside but I have fire wood 20 feet away from the house that has termites in it the pest control guy said to leave it because I remove it it would take there food away which will make them look for food which would be my house
No problem. Here's what you do. Take a can of spray paint and spray a border on the ground that is about 6 to 12 inches wider than the pile on all sides. Move the wood off that marked out area. Dig out that area 6 inches deep and soak the hole with Taurus SC, mixed 0.8 ounces per gallon of water. A gardening watering can works great for this. Fill in the hole with 3 inches of dirt and soak it again well with the Taurus SC mixture. Then finish filling in the hole and soak it again with the Taurus SC mixture. Now put the firewood back where it was. The entire colony will most likely be totally wiped out within about 12 weeks. If the dirt is kind of muddy, then let it dry out for a day, if necessary, but it's a good idea to put a few of the infested logs back in place while it's all drying. You want to keep them eating. Problem solved. By the way, I will be out of town for a couple of weeks, so I may not be able to answer additional questions until after I get back. Don't worry though. If you have follow-up questions, I will answer them upon my return. I'm sure I'll have a good deal of questions waiting for me, so please be patient. I will work through them one at a time. Hopefully it will only take me a week to get caught up. I promise that I will get back to you if you have additional questions, albeit a little slower than usual. We have not been on a vacation for over 13 years and my wife has explained in her unique way that the time has come. So, go I must, and we won't be back until around June 11. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html?sub_id=1817
Guy, I found several termites under the ground dead and on the frame of the doors at the basement. So definitively I have subterran termites in base of your recommendation. I got the formula to mix with water and apply around the house. Is there another recommendation?
How you handle that will depend on the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. You may have an aggressive species that gets treated somewhat differently and you may even have dampwood termites the get treated very differently. So, let's confirm the species before you treat, so you don't waste time and money treating the wrong species. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dIs_a0nfVjg.html
Hello Guy. Thank you so much for your quick and helpful respond. Yes, I watched the video and looking into the characteristics pointed in the video seems that I have a subterranean because they have a black body. Also my house is located in Pennsylvania, 2.5 hours up from Philly.
@@albertomunoz2912 Sorry for the delay in responding to you. I have been away for the last three days and I was not able to answer questions. You definitely have subterranean termites and they are usually pretty easy to treat. Do not apply a liquid pesticide for this problem right now. You may be able to get away with using termite granules. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to apply termite granules: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H7rW_TSBHJ4.html Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Fy7YHi_7Z8g.html
Hello Guy. Awesome. I appreciate your guidance through this treatment. I learned a lot with you and you are going to help me to save a lot of money. I ordered the granular treatment from Amazon. As soon I get it, I will be applying it. I will let you know the outcome of this for sure. Thank you again. I love your videos and I am watching all of them. All are funny and easy to understand. Great job and glad to have on RU-vid an expert person helping to save time and money.
Vehicles are really hard to treat. The first thing you should do is make sure that you do not park in a garage. Parking in a garage will allow the cockroaches the opportunity to infest the house. Naturally, you want to start by thoroughly cleaning the car. Make sure that any food wrappers, crumbs, and so forth are removed. That means you need to vacuum really well. You should have a strict rule that nobody ever eats in your car, including you. Next, you want to spray Nibor-D every place where it will not be noticed. You can spray it under the seats, in different places under the hood, and the entire trunk. Spray it everywhere that it will not be seen or will not damage anything. Mix the Nibor-D 1 cup of product to 16 ounces of water in a small bucket, then pour it into a hand sprayer, like the kind Windex comes in. You can get them at Walmart for about $1.20. After that, see if you can puff some boric acid into the doors. This can sometimes be accomplished by inserting the duster where the windows meet the doors. There's usually a seal right there where you may be able to insert the duster tip. Place an IGR disc under one of the seats, one in the trunk, and one someplace under the hood. Replace them every 90 days. Finally, apply a bait every place where it will not be seen. Just use small dots and use a different formulation of bait every 30 days. Domyown.com has a good selection of gel baits. Try to get six different baits and number them 1 to 6 with a Sharpie. On month seven, start with bait number 1 again. In the summer months, always park your car in the sun, with all the windows shut because roaches do not survive well at high temperatures. You can also put an electric heater in the car to boost up the temperature even more. If you can get the temp over 120 for several hours, that may do the trick. If you live in a cold climate, then you always want to keep the car outside because roaches do not survive well in cold either. German cockroaches are hitchhikers, so be careful that you do not bring them into the homes of friends and family members. They will get into anything you have in the car, and they will attach themselves to your clothing. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. IGR disks: www.domyown.com/gentrol-point-source-p-51.html?pdpv=2 Boric acid: www.domyown.com/boractin-insecticide-powder-p-2207.html?pdpv=2 Nibor-D: www.domyown.com/nibord-insecticide-p-2410.html?pdpv=2 Duster: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B099X3HS47/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@raybin2086 The foggers can help with a quick knockdown if you have a bad infestation. Otherwise, not much help. Essential oils will not be of much use. If you spray a roach with it, that roach is probably going to die. The scent will piss off the others, but they are not going to leave the car. That would mean certain death for them. You need to apply materials that have a residual and will kill them. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Tree stumps are a termite's favorite restaurant, and you should treat them. Drill holes in the top of the stump that are about 1/2 inch wide and just as deep as you can make them. You should try to drill them at least 12 inches deep. Ideally, you should drill them about every 4 inches apart, but if that is too much work, just drill as many as you can. The more of them you drill the better. Also drill holes that are about 12 inches apart around the base of the stump that are on a downward angle, so that the drill bit is aiming under and to the center of the stump. After the holes are all drilled, then mix Taurus SC at 0.8 oz per gallon and fill up the holes with it. You can mix it in a bucket and use a funnel to get it into the holes. It's a good idea to put a cork in the stump holes or fill them in with some sort of caulking to keep the rain out of the holes. If the holes are sealed to prevent light and rain from entering, the Taurus SC can last several years. The hope is that termites will find their way into the areas you treated and take the Taurus SC back to the colony and share it with the other termites. Then it's lights out for the entire colony. Sooner or later, they will come in contact with the Taurus SC. They don't know that this is harmful, so they will happily pass right through it and eat wood that is contaminated with it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html?sub_id=1817
Hi Guy. I am a female needing some good advice. I inspected in & outside of my home. All my facial boards outside & base boards inside are eaten badly by termites over a 20 year period. I live in Miami, Florida. I never had a tent ....only an outdoor spray treatment for $1000 over 18 years ago. In addition to the inside base boards in every room, I notice black frais and eaten wood at 2" high from the tiled floor on one board and black frais only at the floor of the boards around every doorway of the house. I bought a 72oz of Taurus SC and some Fripinol foam. Hulette sent a young man out who said he didn't have to check the attic (really) since he sees all the eaten wood & fraise on all the base boards & bottom of boards around all the doors inside the house including the front door. He said I do not have subterranean, but I have drywood termites. I also have them in the wood roof beams of my screen patio & on the wood post around the screen patio which is attached to the house. They are also eating my wood furniture. They only appear visually this time of year flying around lights,but I know they ate eorking year round & mudt be in my arric too. Hulette quoted me $2800 for a tent only. What type of treatment should I do? Is the tent necessary. I think the termites will only come back with fumigation. What do you recommend? Can I send you pics to your email?
@@dayrawls3365 I think I responded to an email you sent. I will work with you through the email. It's somewhat easier because you have a complex case and emails work better when there will be a lot of back-and-forth conversation. If you can find some of those winged termites, please put one in a jar and let it die a natural death. Then take a photo of it and email it to me. Please watch my video on how to properly photograph a bug. The photo needs to be taken a certain way for me to identify the species. You have a lot of damage, and it makes me wonder if you also have Formosan termites. It would take drywood termites a very long time to do that much damage, but you did say that this has been going on for quite a while, so let's have a look to see what is going on. Be well Day. Video on how to properly photograph a bug: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-I8qd63hX6y8.html
Spend a Saturday to Drill, Trench, & soak it all by yourself, it's worth doing. You'd only spend $$$ on the chemical. Just do it. It's part of taking care of a building. Just think, If you built the structure yourself, you wouldn't hesitate!
You cannot treat drywood termites by trenching. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. This is a generic video that covers a lot of different pests, but it also works for preventing drywood termites. Just ignore the part about treating your yard. You only need to treat the house for drywood termites. This will not treat the termites that are already there, but it will stop new ones from getting in. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y-a8XOqVrlE.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Yozv3s-Qwlw.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-U7ck7zhS0Xo.html
Good advice for subterranean termites, but trenching does not work for drywood termites because they literally fly to your house. They never colonize in the ground like subterranean termites do, so trenching will not bother them. Unfortunately, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate the building. After that, they will keep coming back because the neighbor's have them too and they swarm for several months out of the year. So, you always need to do a preventive treatment every 60 days to keep them away, after the tent comes down. I can't stand these guys. Be well my friend.
To treat stumps, drill holes in the top of the stump that are about 1/2 inch wide and just as deep as you can make them. You should try to drill them at least 12 inches deep. Ideally, you should drill them about every 4 inches apart, but if that is too much work, just drill as many as you can. The more of them you drill the better. Also drill holes that are about 12 inches apart around the base of the stump that are on a downward angle, so that the drill bit is aiming under and to the center of the stump. After the holes are all drilled, then mix Taurus SC at 0.8 oz per gallon and fill up the holes with it. You can mix it in a bucket and use a funnel to get it into the holes. It's a good idea to put a cork in the stump holes or fill them in with some sort of caulking to keep the rain out of the holes. If the holes are sealed to prevent light and rain from entering, the Taurus SC can last several years. The hope is that termites will find their way into the areas you treated and take the Taurus SC back to the colony and share it with the other termites. Then it's lights out for the entire colony. Sooner or later, they will come in contact with the Taurus SC. They don't know that this is harmful, so they will happily pass right through it and eat wood that is contaminated with it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html?sub_id=1817
