I recently re-watched this video after having a frustrating Sunday trying to get back to newbie airbrushing after a long hiatus. The 80/20 mix put into the cup first (among all the other tips) is like a magic elixir. But its not magic, it's Vince's common sense and teaching that makes it work! So far I have sprayed and cleaned two colors back to back, and no jams. Thank you, Vince!
I got back into warhammer for the first time since I was a kid at the begeinning of Covid and can’t believe I’m just now finding your videos. Lots of other great RU-vidrs but you are hands down the most informative, thanks for all the tips and info!
A timely video for me, as I've got several large dragons in my queue for this winter and was planning on really grinding my airbrush skills as I work them through. Thanks Vince! And those lightning wings are fricking cool....
Me too! Have two dragons "in queue" and 3 coming Tuesday!🤣. I am POSITIVE Vince won't mind me sharing this Squidmar video, but if you're doing Dragons, I GUARANTEE you'll appreciate the link I'm sharing. The title is something about "free hand", but it's actually about AMAZING dragon wings in an easy way (comes out like "Richard Grey" style, I had no idea how HIGH level painters got that until I ran across this!😁🐲💜). PS: Squidmar's "guest artist" starts the wings with airbrush!! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IoKDaQpCggM.html
You’re the best, Vince! I really only paint 28mm dark age historical models with not much detail, so I haven’t incorporated the airbrush much past priming. The models just seem too small to get much benefit. I wish there were more videos about doing these types of figures; I know they’re not as popular, but it would help to see how pros approach smaller, more “boring” figures and how to make them look great in an efficient way. Thanks again for all you do!
Great video Vince! some really good points for all levels. Personally from experience now I think more importantly than a good airbrush first is a good compressor. 3L tank, water trap, and many of these come with a basic airbrush. the initial compressor I had didn't have a tank, causing the air to start to become hot after a period of use, which lead to the air cooling in the hose, forming water droplets, and then spluttering with the paint. I had no idea what the problem was for a long time as it would start to happen about 40mins in. Drove me nuts. Ended up finding out the issue and got a new compressor, followed by a new Iwata.
The lightening effect in the wings is incredible. I know you’ve done a lightening video or something like it before but would you maybe do something on how you achieved that effect in the wings?
It's not too complicated, but effectively, paint the bolt a bright white, glaze a white around it witht he airbrush, glaze up against it with a blue tone, run a little white down the bolt, then use the airbrush and white to make some focus spots. I'll add it to the list for a future video.
@@VinceVenturella your clear description sounds way simpler than it looks! I don’t own an airbrush, but I imagine the effect is still achievable…with more futzing 🤪-thank you for considering!
Thanks as always Vincey V!!! Tabletop wargamer for 35 years and I use your content like my library for my hobby. Can't believe you don't have 100k subs yet, so deserve it.
Hi Vince, I really appreciate everything you do - no-nonsense perfect advice I know I can alwats trust. You are one of the few people who also suggest beginners using airbrush which I think is a good idea - especially for priming! So much healthier to stay away from those solvent spray cans too
I got an amazing deal on an eclipse bottle feed from hobby lobby I use for priming. Damaged box or something 20 dollars. Then I picked up a neo gravity fed for 30 bucks at Michaels. Keep an eye out deals and airbrushes can be pretty affordable.
The eclipse is great and my go to workhorse brush. It will get you 90% there with most models and has served me well for many years. I recently upgraded to the Iwata Micron but will continue to keep my eclipse on standby for priming, varnishing and all that good stuff. Invest in a well made airbrush and you will always find uses for it. Even if you eventually upgrade.
This video was excellent - very thorough, clear, and matter-of-fact. I've been using an airbrush for well over 10 years, but I consider myself only... 'All Right™' with it. I definitely got a few answers to things that frustrate me - this was worth not only a like, but also a subscribe. :)
Really informative amazing stuff. Vince thank you a lot for all your vids. First dragon I'll make with my new airbrush will be made to your honor. You are the boss. Thank you again. Now i feel prepared to start with my airbrush.
thanx as i just airbrushed for the first time lastnight with a cheap airbrush i had major clogging issues till my trigger went down the drain ugh , good thing i got one more grav fed to use , thanks for this vid it helps alot
Vince, Great video, your content has always been amazing and I'm glad to see your video quality catching up to that. Once suggestion is that I think the music was perhaps about 10-20% too loud. Thanks for the video!
If you look at the safety sheets for the Flow Improver and Thinner, you get the impression that they are more the same then most people realize. I think that is also why some people swear by using one over the other and visa versa. That would not make sense if they would be quite dissimilar. I like Thinner more, because I am more bothered by paint not drying fast enough on the model (and getting spiders) then I am with stuff like dry tip or getting paint dried somewhere else in the airbrush.
It's best practice to avoid using backflow to mix paint because generally airbrushes are not designed to do this and it wears out the seals by applying pressure from the wrong side. Either pre-mixing or using an old brush to mix the paint in the cup works fine. Same with cleaning, either blow the cleaner through the airbrush into a waste container or do a quick disassembly and cleanup.
@@adfdasdfadfadsfareae It really depends on its geometry and how it is held inside the airbrush. Rubber flexes under pressure, repeated contractions and expansions from two sides are worse than from one side.
Nice video as always Vince. One question and one comment: 1. Question - there exists a line of thought that the airbrush thinner actually makes the paints dry out a lot quicker (leading to more dry-tip), so some users swear by only using airbrush flow improver - have you ever found that to be the case? 2. One tip - if you use the fluid cup lid (that came with the airbrush), it will greatly reduce the paint from drying out inside the airbrush fluid cup - reducing things like clogs, etc for new users.
The thinner will make it dry faster, because it will evaporate more quickly than the water and medium in the paint, but that is why I have flow improver in my mix, that slows the drying process. :)
15:20 That is why I only use Thinner for inks (while sometimes using some Flow Improver for regular acrylics). They won't cause glogs, so might as well have the benefit of drying faster with only Thinner as a.... thinner ;)
This may sound stupid, but I think the one thing I would have liked to have seen covered would be changing out the O-rings. I believe my Iwata may need this, but I'm unsure of how to change such a tiny part without ripping it.
Vince, I have issues with my white FW ink for zenithal priming. I go a low pressure and a couple drops of thinner/improver but I get speckeling and beading of flat surfaces. Is this an issue with my settings, or the surface of the model? (primed with the same airbrush). Also, love the head swap you did for the horns. Verminlord horns, yes?
sounds like dried paint residue in the airbrush. give it a good cleaning and check the rubber rings for damage. change them, if necessary. also premix paints in dropper bottles other than in the airbrush cup.
I had exactly the same issues, I found it needs quite a lot of thinning, not just 1 or 2 drops. I am FAR from an expert but there is so much pigment in inks you can thin them quite a lot. I also went for a higher pressure rather than lower. I am still very new to using inks, but the couple of times I have tried it so far super thin worked better.
Thin inks more, you can also try turning the PSI way up, it will atomize it more, you might also have something in the nozzle, there are lots of potential issues, but check through those and it should set you in the right direction.
Vince, your airbrush material is some of your most valuable content. I watched many tutorial videos on airbrushes, none of them recommended filling the cup with thinner before paint despite who obvious it is. With your videos I was able to prime 10 minis with no clogs in half the time. It was enjoyable instead of frustrating. One question; I have the same Iwata Eclipse CS5 airbrush , I bought it before I discovered your channel. I noticed since I’ve practiced my trigger control is that I really have to push down on the trigger to get it to spray when mildly pulling it back. If I pull the trigger back a millimeter but don’t press down aggressively, nothing comes out. Is there something I should be looking out for to resolve this, or is this normal for this airbrush? Edit: Solved. I fully disassembled and cleaned it, and used beeswax to seal the threads. I think I had a small leak which was causing the small amount of air to not come out the nozzle. Thanks again, the airbrush is now exciting and inspiring me!
Hello Vince! I've checked out many of your videos and love your passion for teaching us tips and tricks and philosophy behind colours and motivation. I'm definitely no expert in airbrushing, but I believe I've got some clues on paint thinning and the general ropes. I have an airbrush question though that I hope you can answer: I have an Iwata Eclipse HPCS and use your 20/80mix of flow improver and thinner but when I want to paint details and go close to the model and paint medium sized details, like the belly on my saurus warriors, the airbrush stutters. I can paint small/thin lines but not consistent; the paint stops and I have to aim the brush to the side and blast it on full force to rinse the nozzle, then I can paint a small line again, for like 1 second before it stops again. I have tried to practically dillute the paint to water consistency but no luck. I have tried different pressure but nothing works. PSI over 25 isn't practical when doing detail work. I bought a new compressor with a tank and a water trap to attach to the airbrush, no luck. This frustrated me and I thought the Iwata was defective... So I bought an Infinity, to rule that out and even though I find the Infinity a bit more high end with a nicer trigger with better feel for the air, the problem with the small "brush stream" prevails. I believe this is because the low pressure and puny air/paint stream makes it so the paint clogges more easily, but I see on your videos that it is indeed possible to keep a "moderate stream" for a fairly long time, at least for several seconds. So therefore I come before you, is this normal and something I'll have to live with or should I buy more airbrushes?
So this is a pretty classic case of dry tip. You might be in a very dry climate, so your paint might be drying quickly. You want to make sure you are cleaning the tip regularly with a wet brush. You also might want to keep the nozzle clean, the little brass nozzle can have some subtle build up inside and it can then make dry tip more common. You need a needle scraping tool to clean that out. Worst case, you can always try a little drying retardent in the thinner/flow improver mix.
@@VinceVenturella I tried the other day, to add a bit drying retarder in the mixture and I believe I have remedied the problems. Got to test some more but it definitely got better.
I don't have the space or the money for an airbrush but this was great fun. Also different shots of the dragon other than the cool one on Warhammer weekly, Hazar!
Recently, the market opened for airbrush systems with battery powered compressors. they sell for less than US$100 and come with a very simple airbrush. Maybe that's an option for you.
Thanks for the video, great prep as I go into starting my first big army project this weekend. For the newer Stormcast range with all of their cloaks/cloth, would you bother masking those (with silly putty as one of the earlier hobby cheating suggest) when doing the metals? I have them all zenithal primed, so don't want to waste that effort, but on the other hand all the masking would be a ton of time. Or would it be just as easy to come back in afterwards and lay down some highlights and shadows, as illustrated here, with the airbrush afterwards? Thanks again for all of the videos, they have been a fantastic help on my hobby journey.
Either could work, if you're doing both with the airbrush, you're going to mask at some point. I would likely mask the metals second and then do the cloak, it should be easier to just mask those edges around the cloak.
Vince, I see why Scott and Jon are such fanboys! this is the best tutorial I've found anywhere on the internet. super thankful! One question I still have: what PSI do you use, and when?
FOr most purposes, 18-20 and you're good there. There are instances with other pressures, but don't worry about that when getting going, stick to 18-20 to learn.
re: needle size, I have an expensive 0.15 mm airbrush and a cheapo 0.5mm nozzle brush, I use the 0.5mm way more often, that thing can shoot un-thinned paint or varnish like a champ, it can shoot shitty craft paint or metallics with huge flakes, everyone needs a cheapo wide bore paint cannon for basecoating and varnishing
Just starting the hobby again (after a 20 years break) and your videos have been really useful to put me up to speed. Was very curious about what is the airbrush all about and this video is perfect to give me the quick overview. Will wait the 6 month period to get one as you recommended in another video. Amazing Dragon by the way, absolutely astonishing results! I am intrigued by your suggestion of starting with a bad airbrush... will an iwata neo be too good to start? I don't want to waste money but my budged allow me to buy one comfortably.
Thanks Vince super useful, I have recently started using an airbrush and seem to be getting speckling instead of smooth layers any idea why this is please?
Could be multiple things. The paint is too thick is the common culprit, your PSI could be too low, you could have some blockage in the nozzle or getting dry tip. It’s sort of process of elimination. Target PSI should be 18-20
Great video as always Vince, the lightning was stunning, was that just white lines drawn with normal brush and then sprayed with a light blue to shift the hue and give it the appearance of glowing ?
Yes, the core bolts were sculpted, then supporting lines were drawn. Then white glaze around them with the airbrush, then a very thin blue filter, then very thin white to bring it back to white at the core and reinforced at the joints.
Very nice video.... I found it just the time I needed it... I have a Project with a D&D Mechanic Dragon which has plenty of Patches in its Wings... The only think i didnt understand is how to make highlight on my model... as I know and please correct me if I am wrong... always when we base paint have the airbrush 90 degrees to the surface we paint... and the highlights i dilute the paint and change the degrees of painting... but i didnt manage it well....whats going wrong with it... (Airbrush is Talon) thanks in advance :)
So I will say, you don't need to keep it at that angle. I am not sure of the exact figure you have, but generally, if we're talking about a large flat surface, you want to rotate the airbrush at a deeper angle and pick something about the wing to be the area the light is catching, something like the lower end of the wing or something like that. Use the shape of the cone to your advantage to create the transition. Hope that helps.
but vince, the first i want to know is not which airbrush to purchase, but how an airbrush works! same for the explainations of the pushing, vs pulling back of the trigger and what they do. otherwise there's no context for your tips. love your content.
@@VinceVenturella always useful to get your expert advice, it wanted to be more constructive criticism for the future. It's easy to take things for granted when you're immersed in them so much :)
After putting those initial 4 drops (3:1 thinner, flow improver), and the paint, do you still add more thinner afterwards, or do you go straight to backflush and proceed to paint?
Fantastic video. What would you suggest for a 'sticky' trigger when pressing downwards (air only) on a Badger Patriot? Not sure if it's the agricultural machinery vibe of this brush or what, but I really struggle with controlling the volume of air. Thanks in advance.
Give it a good thorough cleaning, something like isopropyl alcohol or use an ultrasonic cleaner. There is something stuck in the casing of the trigger.
One thing that I am always curious about is whether I should be wearing a respirator - or is that dependent on what I’m putting through the airbrush? ie primer vs just paint vs acrylic varnish? Are those spray booths worth it? I feel like my biggest problem is that I don’t have space to have that spray booth permanently setup, so I end up not airbrushing as much as I’d like.
So it's generally a good idea to have a mask, or at minimum a hood with a filter for acrylic paints and I'd recommend both. :) - If you're using any kind of toxic paint (Enamels, et al), you need a mask and a generally want a hood with a filter. :) As to the spray booth, the best thing to do is just get a little fold up one, they can generally fit on a 3' x3' desk without issue.
Thanks! I always seem to see youtubers that are painting without a booth, or without a mask, and I wonder if I'm just being paranoid. It certainly would be easier if I didn't have to worry about that stuff!
Nope, white spirits don't interact with dry acryllic paint. Tha tbeing said, you may want to varnish as that will impact how the oil wash spreads and "stains" the glossier the surface, the more it will flow into the recesses and the less it will "stain."
Great video. Thanks. Just one question. You seemed to remove the nozzle when painting smaller/closer details. Was this the case and is this what you recommend? I have exactly the same airbrush and smaller areas are a little tricky atm.
I removed the needle guard (the metal circle around the tip) and yes, it will provide for a much tighter cone as it prevents the air from bouncing around in a tiny wind tunnel effectively, BUT you have to be really, really careful, if you even bump that needle, you're done.
Excellent video. I’m new to miniature painting and loving it, your vids have helped me so much, thank you. I would like to get into airbrushing, so my question is, as a beginner, what size needle/nozzle airbrush should I get?
0.3mm is a good start. not to big, not too small. you are set for priming, basecoating, preshading, etc. make sure you get a decent one, e.g. IWATA, BADGER, HARDER&STEENBECK, secondly, get a compressor with a tank. It's quieter, less prone to overheat, and the tank provides a steady airflow. It should also have a moisture trap, so water does not cause speckling or ruins the finish.
Great video... wondering IF there are options besides using the Vallejo? Would Liquitex products be comparable, such as the Airbrush Medium and/or Flow Aid?
I would like some advice here. I live in a tiny apartment in Sweden and literally paint on the dinner table, taking staff from and in storage every session. I want the smallest and most quiet possible solution to get an airbrush. I have looked into cordless battery powered compressors but they look like a waste of money for acrylics. I have found some tiny compressors that look to have only 3 settings and look like a bulky hard drive. Any suggestions from Vince and followers?
My best advice, set up a small child desk somewhere in a corner, put a fold-up hood on there, get a compresssor with a tank and you should be good to go with very minimal space and the hood will filter the spray.
How important are the bigger compressors for Air brushing? I got the masterson g22+ 1/5hp single piston pack which you recommended for beginners. Whenever I upgrade to a better airbrush is the single piston still good enough? Thanks!
Thanks for the indeph insight! Would you recommend using pearlescent inks or metallic acrylics with an airbrush or would the metallic pigments ruin the nossal?
You can use metallics through an airbrush, you just want to use something very thin. Really, as always with metallics, it's vallejo metal color or nothing. The Metal Color is specifically airbrush formulated and a dream, and I have put it through a .2 nozzle many times. :)
I have a question about the oil wash how you dispose of any remaining wash? Usually with my acrylic paint water i just pour it into the drain on my kitchen sink. Can i do the same with any remaining oil washes or is that a bad idea??
Oil washes need to be disposed off properly, as they contain harmful ingredients. Ask your local trash disposal service. But, usually oil washes don't need to be disposed. Use a glass container to store any leftover for the next time.
What is your experience with thinning Vallejo Model Color for use with airbrushing? I'm using a Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline with a 0.4 mm nozzle at 30PSI thinning with that 80% Vallejo Airbrush Thinner/20% Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver mix of yours and eventhough I thin 50/50 Vallejo Model Color/ThinnerFlow Mix I get into trouble after a minute or two. I need to pull back more and more to get anything out of the nozzle. I don't have this problem with Vallejo Surface Primer Panzer Grey, Grey or White (last one a 40PSI, Yes I'm listning to what you say. :-) . I do thin those too with a drop or two to half a large cup but I'm in control there.
I saw in another comment that regular flow aide is the same as airbrush flow improver. If that's true, would I dilute it as normal with water (20:1) and then use that in the 80:20 thinner mix you use or would I use it directly without dilution?
Hi Vince, thank you indeed for all your work - one can really learn from your videos! ;) I have a question, if I may: I recently purchased an airbrush, I try to follow your recommendations (I work really thin, I barelly push the trigger for both, air and colour, I have PSI around 20 and I work close to the miniature). Yet, I'm really struggling with priming the miniatures. This is especially true for grey and white, black is not so bad. I use all three colours from the Vallejo Surface Primer series. And the grey/white seem to be chalky and especially extremely watery. It seems like I'm shooting air and water to the miniature and it leaves stains etc. I tried to put more paint in the mix (I moved from ratio of approx. 10 drops of thinner/flow improver vs. 3 or 4 drops of primer to basically 10:10 ratio but it doesn't seem to help so much and I'm also afraid that with more colour the nozzle may get stucked). Any idea on what I may be doing wrong?
Okay, so those ratios are for paint, not primer, I have a different video specifically on priming. For primer, you do 1 drop of thinner to 4 drops of primer (the other direction, much more paint) hope that helps
Great video, and awesome dragon Vince. Holy mackerel it looks good. I do have a few questions. In your experience, have you used airbrushes with different needle sizes? Is that something is important? And also, do you change the pressure on your compressor for various reasons, i.e. fine detail work vs priming. My compressor doesn't really change pressure well, and I'm curious to see if this is important 🤔
I have used different size needs, if you go down to .2 or .15 it can make a difference (though Trigger control remains paramount by far). I don't really tend to change the PSI, but some of my airbrushes have air flow control on the airbrush itself, which I find easier than adjusting the pressure on the compresor.
@@naphaneal I'm in the market for a new compressor, but I will on the lookout for this feature. The old one I fear doesn't have long in this world. Thanks for the advice. 😎
@@VinceVenturella Copy that. Thank you for the info. All good things to think about for sure. I'm will be in the market for a new airbrush set up, as I think I've outgrown my old stuff. And it's on its last legs as well.
Great video as always! I noticed sometimes when I switch to inks and thinner paints I get spider webbing. Is the go to fix for this turning down the psi? Or is this due to me pulling too far back on the airbrush? Should I use some plasticard on the side to test the spray? I usually test if everything is coming out clean on my cloth but thats just a sputtering test but it doesnt let me know if its about to spiderweb.
Yes, you either have too much PSI (which you can control by actually turning it down, or using the dual action more carefully, getting less air out) or you are too close to the model and holding in one place (keeping the airbrush moving also helps prevent this). So airpressure, distance and movement, that's the key.
Hey Vince, really nice video. Quick question…for priming using somethink like vallejo surface primer or even for any ready to go paints for airbrush…do you still use that 1 to 1 ratio thinner/paint? Thanks very much
Next level painting taught us years ago to only use flow improver far painting and thinner only for priming. If what does mixing those 2 solutions do? Does it cause the tip to dry?
Thank you as always for another great hobby cheating!:) I currently use a cheap starter air brush, iv used it for about a year, and im considering buying a new more expencive one. Because i struggle with the air pressure range, even if i am super careful its very hard to not just go from 0 to 100, is this a normal weakness of simpler air brushes? or am i just very heavy handed? the amount of paint coming out is very easy to control tho:)
you can try using a bit of lube on the moving parts (e.g. trigger, needle) to get a smoother action. Also, the ratio air pressure:paint viscosity is highly experience dependent, meaning there's no common rule on how to thib paints ir set pressure level. as a rule of thumb: the higher the viscosity, the higher the pressure needs to be.
@@naphaneal thats good advice, ill give lube a try but im just talking about the trigger it self, even without paint or airpressure hooked up the trigger range is really short, and the spring seems fairly tightly coiled, so it requires a pressure that amkes it realyl difficult to find a middle ground between full blast and nothing, so im curious if it might be the airbrush model thats alittle wonkey:) but thanks a bunch for the advice:)
@@naphaneal i have a sparmax dualaction SP-20X :S dont know if thats intresting, was thinking about getting a harder and steenbeck infinity, now that iv had this one for 1,5 years and i use it a bunch but i feel it comes up short, but it might just be me thats unpractised:)
@@erikbrandsnes9569 in my experience, with cheap airbrushes you reach their limits very early on. switching to a high end model gives you a different approach to airbrushing. but keep in mind, there's a learning curve. btw: i can recommend the book "Airbrushing: The Essential Guide" by Fred Crellin as a good reference source.
In my experience even on the HP-CS it's quite hard to control the amount of air pressure, as the up-down travel on the trigger is very small. Some airbrushes do have a little valve that lets you control how much air pressure you get at 100%, without having to change it on the compressor. The most important thing is to just be gentle when pulling the trigger back though. I haven't seen much use for changing the air pressure all the time (I only really change it based on whether I'm doing detail work or e.g. priming), but controlling the amount of paint is essential.
I have such a love-hate relationship with my airbrush. After watching this video I felt inspired to work on my Heroquest terrain pieces only to find no paint was coming through my airbrush. I tried to screw off the front nozzle and found it vacuum-welded (metaphorically) to the body of the airbrush. I may be weak, or the nozzle might be on too tight, either way, I don't have the power to take it off. Playing with the airbrush is simultaneously what gets me to sit down and paint and what makes me dread painting. I'm wondering how I'll know whether I've permanently destroyed an airbrush.
It can be tough, but once you've learned, a good airbrush can also make it easier. You may want to soak the airbrush in some cleaner, or even some isopropyl alcohol which will break up all of that stuff and let you dissassemble for a good cleaning.
@@VinceVenturella I did manage to get the nozzle off, and now I know for certain I destroyed it. I think I used too much force in disassembly and very slightly bent the screw threads, preventing me from putting on a cap. It sucks because a Paasche Talon is $80. I think I'll downgrade to a Masters and see if I can keep it working for at least a year before I buy something fancy. A lesson to always start with a cheap airbrush.
I've consumed ALL of the airbrush tutorials today. I absolutely adored this one. It's not just informative but confidence-building. I don't know if it's the aggregate of all the videos I've seen or this one in particular but I actually feel prepared to bust out the airbrush I got as a birthday present that's been sitting under my desk for 8 months. Hell, I'm eager to do so after watching this breakdown and actually think I'm capable of really utilizing it. Thanks, Vince. You're a true patrician.
Agreed. I've watched most airbrush miniature-painting-tutorials and this is one of the most helpful out there. However, calling it "Ultimate guide" is stretching it way too far. I know he made more videos but he should have numbered them like: "Ultimate guide to the Airbrush 1, 2, 3, 4" etc. - Like what other equipment should i get? - And what about: "Before first use, do this". If you buy a new airbrush Always pick it apart as much as possible. Clean it. Everywhere. Use mini pipe cleaners. Then lubricate the surfaces where the o-rings sit with Glycerin and then "massage" the o-rings between your fingers and lubricate them with Glycerin. Put them back and shoot some paint thinner through with full air throttle to clear out any excess lube. Most paints have Glycerin added as a thinner so while Glycerin is pretty much less harmless to most paints, Never Ever use silicone oil on the o-rings in an airbrush, which is otherwise the standard lube for o-rings. Silicone oil/grease creeps and spreads like a plague over every surface and if micro-traces of it passes through the nozzle it will kill your paint cause it usually dissolve acrylic paint, among other things.
I rewatch these videos as Vince's teaching style is the same as my favourite Jr. High/ High school teachers. A respite from the insanity of the modern world.
Can also recommend Harder and Steenbeck's Ultra 2 in 1 as a great starter airbrush if you live in Europe. It's very good for the price and interchangable with more expensive parts so you can upgrade it. I still use it even though I upgraded to an Evolution. Another little tip is that once you inevitably have to get a new needle, keep the old one (provided it's not bent or broken completely). You can use it to easily clear the nozzle.
Ultra is not bad (especially cleaning it, it's like 5 mins of work tops), but I didn't really like the trigger after using it for half a year, mainly regarding vertical, airflow control. You can try adjusting it, but I could never get it just right. Infinity, for over 3x the price, resolves that issue, but well, that's not exactly the solution.
@@Elfhelm Silverline, Evolution, and Infinity share the same main body. So, if the Infinity is too expensive for one's taste, either Silverline or Evolution is a choice.
