@@SM-sj4dq last week NewEgg was running a special on the Be Quiet Dark Power 13 1000watt for 199.99. I got from Amazon for 260 and it’s a very premium product. Even the cables feel high quality and damn it’s soo nice having a Native 12VHPWR connection directly on the PSU. None of that 2 - 8 Pin connectors like Corsair does.
This entire video was very informative and confidence inspiring.. Enermax definitely needs to start selling their products in india as well. If anyone from enermax is reading this, please, we need more competition in this market 😅🙏
thank you. I feel like a lot of other build creators skip over most of the details when it comes to power supplies. however, as an inexperienced builder I found it difficult to figure out the cables and such and there really is few videos that explain that well. thanks for explaining it here
One thing I have heard of is that the companies only have to provide one model to get the efficiency rating and then they could possibly use lesser quality components in product that is sold later.
that would be a huge scandal, it's called bait and switch... It's what some SSD/NVME manufacturers tried to do... But ON a PSU level it would be really bad for that to happen.
great content. i had a Evga Super Nova 550w g3 since 2015 which was powering my 7700k rig. for my new 12600kf build i bought an Seasonic Focus GX-850 which has ATX 3.0. the main reason for me wasn't only the 600w PciE 5.0 plug but the 2x 8 pin Cpu connectors. the 12600kf is booting much faster bec the Bios Post is proceeding much faster now and Cpu/Ram oc runs much more stable!!
Another company trying to sell you more. Modern (Gold++) power supplies have quite decent power efficiency almost up to 100% and will last for 10 years. But none of them has great performance below 20%. So think about your idle/YT 100W system for a second? "12VO" has decent low power states, but try to find a PSU and MB with that format. You can count them on the fingers of a single hand. Even as a carpenter.
Talked about supplying video cards with 150w/300w/450w/600w, what if the video card needs say 225w. Does it oversupply it then? What is the point of this stepping, is it for efficiency? Because most all video cards are not going to take precisely one of those 4 wattage all of the time. Also what if say a video card is right on the cusp like 298w?
As the video stated, your system pulls what it needs. You don’t load the psu full supply to everything just because it says 1000 etc… The max is just what it’s capable of all at once. You add everything up in your system and add maybe 200 more watts just for gpu spikes just to be safe and future proof. That’s why a lot of Americans are going with 1000w. Just rebuilt mine with a 1000w.
el algoritmo de youtube me trajo hasta aquí ... y es uno de los mejores videos informativos y didácticos que he visto referente a PSU. Gracias Tech Notice
80+ is not super relevant for single home pc users, the difference on most people's eletric bill would be pennies per month. The standard was created for enterprises running dozens or hundreds of computers, a use case where energy waste adds up fast. A good 850 watt psu can provide 850 watts CONTINUOUSLY on the +12v at it's rated specs. 850 watt is not the total amount of power it cn deliver, although most components will be using +12v. There are some (and used to be way more) psus that are "peak rated" and instead of delivering their rated wattage continuously on the +12v, their wattage rating is a combination of the +12v and +3.3v and +5v rails. So a peak rated 800 watt usually delivers something like 636 watt on +12v and the rest of the rails add up to 800 watts. By no means could a psu like this power a system that requires say 650 watts, but a good, honestly rated 850 obviously could. Semi modular is fine, you need the 24-pin and 8-pin cpu cables anyway in literally every build. Also, fully modular cable reduce the tightness of ripple control a tiny bit, so hardwired cables are better for performance. Fully modular is all about convenience and aesthetics, semi modular is a good middle ground. PSU calculators are basically useless, none are very accurate. They just add up rated tdps and figures given by manufacturers that can vary wildly. Look up reviews of components for real world power consumption. Great video, hopefully more like this in the future.
I still got a 600w Enermax Noisetaker v2 EG701 PSU got it back in 2005 and its still running in that old machine, I only buy quality - its a false economy running cheap psu's as the protection in them wont be any good, the other brands I currently use are Corsair RM 850 series and the Seasonic Platinum 1000w which I have had in my current machine
Dio is from Enermax - I'm now at minute 20, go Dio - Your power supplies have a decisive advantage or a unique selling point, I hope you'll address that
So, this is leaving me with more questions than answers: - From what I understand this is an Intel Standard. Shouldn't it have been an NVidia Standard? - These very nice cables, if used, void the guarantee on your Nvidia card, according to Nvidia themselves. - Then we have another huge issue, my KFA2 HOF 4090 card draws 660 Wats from a similar cable (I use a Seasonic), and I know that the Asus Strix can also go well above 600 Wats. How do the cables handle that much, and why limit them to 600 Wats when there are cards that can "easily" exceed that Wattage? - Is there any technical reason for the top manufacturers, such as Enermax, not to include a cable for 800 or even 1000 Watts, which will be achievable with LN2 cooling? Thanks for all the explanations but a 600-watt cable is just not enough. I thought of using two PSUs, however, we can't because NVidia has only one [very badly thought of] connector. Cheers.
First of all, I wish you a Merry Christmas. Interesting video, especially because I want to set up a PC test bench and play around in the next few days (vacation). The PSUs I took out of the closet were “Be Quiet Dark Power Pro 530 Watt” (spring 2006) + “Enermax Modu 87+” (spring 2011). I hope they still work, I don't feel like expanding anything
12hvp cable. there is a repair shop in southern california that does OEM repairs for like gigabyte and asus he has done well over 300 12vhp socket replacements on melted rtx 4090s. so its not a small number by any means
Could you produce a video that explains why PSU makers state that the cables they ship with their PSU must only be used with that PSU? I have many PSUs from different brands. Is there a way to determine which cables go to which PSU, as the cables all look alike? A demonstration of what can happen if a cable made for a specific PSU is replaced with a cable from a different PSU. I recently purchased a Power supply tester IV. Would this device show me which cables go to which PSU?
depending on who made the power supply, they will link certain things to the main 12v rail; and in many different ways. if you look at the internal diagram for all of them and it's the same,you're fine. if it's different at all,that's a no-go.
Issue with Japanese capacitors has a history that we not told here and needs to be told. In the 1990s, Taiwanese companies "stole" the IP formula of the Japanese capacitors and started making them for motherboards. However, the quality was subpar unknown to the copy-cat companies. I think there was a lawsuit and industrial espionage investigated by the Japanese trade authorities. The end result was capacitors leaking after some months leading to huge motherboard recalls from Asus ? and Gigabyte and generic no-name brand lower end motherboards. These were catastrophic to the motherboard. I friend of mine in HK has his board suffer this failure. This shows the copying was not perfect and the Japanese improved their formula/design with special coating and materials impossible to copy to date. Hence, they have a total monopoly on this caps!!!. Another point about laptop power adapters , is that the adapter block does the A/C to D/C conversion to a single higher voltage such as 16.5v on older laptops and 20V on newer models. This means the laptop motherboard has step-down voltage to 5v, 3.3v, maybe 1.2v with their associate power filters and smoothing capacitors/circuits so the that chips can operate at those voltages. ie. Laptop DC-in is 20v DC and then it hits the internal power circuit for stepdown etc. The chips operate at 5v and 3.3v CMOS while the CPU uses VRMs to step down to 1,2v or fraction of 1 volt. eg 0.8v.
Very VERY good video, I was gonna buy the RMe 850w but since it does not have japanese capacitors, ill go with the Thermaltake GF3 instead since its cheaper!
About the thing he asked in the end.. I don't think there's anything new a creator could ask for in terms of functionality... Aesthetics maybe? Argb is never a requirement, but i do see creators aiming for a clean/sleek professional look. Take proart products for example, clean designs no RBG BS. Maybe a creator specific product line that focuses on performance and clean designs, saving money on rgb leds.
Japanese capacitors are these days more an ongoing marketing tool rather than a significant choice for PSU's. It originated because of the capacitor plague (electrolytic) in the early 2000s which saw a whole lot of new startups third party electrolytic capacitors fail due to quality issues bought about from incomplete stolen formulas for the electrolyte. Japanese made capacitors were not affected by the issue as they were already established and had their own stable proven formulas for the electrolyte. Japanese Caps are more expensive and typically higher grade, but it's no guarantee against bad design and bad component choices. A cheap PSU with Japanese caps, is still a cheap PSU. The capacitor plague is long over, non Japanese capacitors doesn't mean bad capacitors or cheap capacitors and Japanese capacitors is not a guarantee of quality. Cheap Japanese capacitors exist, capacitor series and not just the brand makes a difference in quality and longevity of the PSU. You trust that the PSU Brand is ensuring that the right capacitors are being used in their PSUs. I'd rather a Teapo (non Japanese) 105°C rated capacitor rather than a Rubicon or Nipoon Chemicon 85°C rated capacitor in my PSU.
efficiency and quality have little in common in the modern PSU market, read your cultist list and research your hardware, and the rating system is for when the PSU is basically at idol, has little to do with how it will perform under loud, and German, Brazilian, and south Korean are of the same quality as Japanese,
Titanium psu or nothing. With the increase in power prices. I always thought that 80+ titanium was the better option. Even though it is more expensive.
105°C rated is a thermal longevity, max temp rating. A 4000 hour 105°C rated capacitor will last 4000 hours at 105°C. A 4000 hour 85°C rated capacitor will last 4000 hours @ 85°C. At temperatures lower than the rating, the capacitor will last significantly longer. The rule of thumb is a doubling of life expectancy for every 10°C drop. So a 4000 hour 105°C rated capacitor will last ~16000 hours at 85°C and 64000 hours @65°C, the 85°C capacitor will last ~16000 hours at 65°C. 85°C caps are cheaper and will last a long time in low power applications where their temperature differential above ambient is low, e.g typically only get 10-20 degrees above ambient In a human tolerable environment (e.g. 20-30°C controlled temp environment like an office or home). High power devices where components can get to high temps like in a PSU often 40-80° C above ambient (60-110°C+ component temps), are best served with high temp rated capacitors for longevity. Micro environment temps can vary significantly with proximity to high temp components, power mosfets can get to 120°C+, how close capacitors are to these components and heatsinks can affect capacitor temps significantly.
After watching this video, I have completely lost trust in the Enermax brands and company. Their expert cannot answer many basic questions about power supplies, their main product. This is especially visible when asking about the 12v only standard.
Intel let's make new 12v standard that will profit us, becouse planet is on fire... Same time Intel let's push CPUs above the limit with outrage Wattage consumption... And 0 for environment.
US power grid runs 115-120v. While the average home has a 100 Amp, or 200 Amp panel, all the home circuits are typically wired for 15A or 20A circuits. With a 20A circuit, on 115v grid, you can get 2300W input into your supply... meaning you "should" get at least 1840W at 80% efficiency. If you run a monitor, printer, router/modem or even a desk lamp... you need a second circuit ;).
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