Recently my Umarex Legends Cowboy Rifle/Winchester Model 1894 Replica developed a CO2 leak. In this video I will strip the rifle down and hopefully effect a repair.
Update: After a couple of hours of searching I managed to find the missing piece. With the help of a bit of masking tape it is now back in the rifle where it should be!
It is important the spring it’s there for a reason. Use a big magnet to find it . Or use an old pillowcase to put over it when putting it back in place . I know how I would have put the little spring back in , but we all use different methods . It’s not complete without that . I once saw a mechanic putting a new clutch in a VWK70 I think it was . When he had finished the job ,he showed me a few bolts left over ……he said oh well and threw them in the bin . Those bolts were there for a reason. I thought do not bring your car here for a repair . Its pride with me ,just taking care and a little time makes all the difference.
Thanks to this video, I was able to take apart and repair a leaking O ring where the brass tube goes into the CO2 pressure chamber in the buttstock. After disassembling it and looking at the parts, I discovered the original O ring had hardened and wasn't sealing properly. A new O ring, put it all back together, and it works flawlessly. Thanks for the help, mate. couldn't have done it without you. for those wondering, I've had the rifle for a couple years with no leaks, and used it a lot in that time. in this case, the leak started after it got carelessly knocked over a couple times. This can cause the buttstock to slightly bend to the right or the left, which can unseat that brass tube and O ring where it goes into the pressure chamber. an old hard O ring won't conform back to the tube when that happens, and then you get a leak. It's an easy fix, if you have some really small O rings and this video to show you how to get it apart.
Glad that you found it useful. I shall take note of what you said about the O ring in the butt stock pressure chamber, in case I get another leak. I had the rifle about 15 months before the leak developed.
Handy video buddy, thanks for taking the time to make a video. The question of why there's a mixture of slotted and philip screw heads is an easy one, the slotted ones are the ones you can obviously see when the guns together (in keeping with the real Winnie) and the hidden ones are all self tapping philips that you'll only see once you start to disassemble. You've done a grand job though buddy 🙂
Thanks. Just thought it might be useful to anyone else having the same problem. That makes sense regarding the screws, I should have thought of that! Cheers.
I wonder if Umerex have any plans to rifle and pcp this ? I think there are some pcp cowboy rifles, but they’re not as close as this. Thnx for the vid.
Yes, when I was trying to fit that part I knew with almost certainty that I was going to lose it 🤣 I'm sure we've all had moments like that Rob 🙂 Cheers, Alan.
Hi Matthew. Yes, you are probably right but I wanted to see if anything I did on reassembly caused the gas to leak again. I've had the apron for a few years now but I think I got it from Amazon. Basic welder's leather apron, cost about £15 I think. Cheers, Alan.
Loved your video, thanks for sharing! Does anyone know if its possible to "adjust" the valve (maybe the spring inside it) to make the rifle shoot less hard? Thanks for the help in advance!
Really interesting and useful video. Do you think that applying the silicone oil whilst still assembled,would’ve cured, or prevented the leak ? ….By the way,….I’ve found your spring…it was behind my settee.
When you said you had reassembled the valve slightly wrong, what was it? I've got exact problem all seals look good still got a slow leak. I put the green o ring in first with the slightly flat side up, then the washer flat side down then the valve with spring.
When I first screwed the valve back together it didn't screw down very far. Not sure why. When I took it apart again it screwed down much further and stopped leaking.
Thnx for your reply: Not too bad then. I thought it may be one of those issues that arise the day after the warranty runs out. I suppose with regular use, a leak is inevitable…eventually. I guess then , you’d recommend this rifle ? Thnx
I’m just gonna paint my stock and Handguard black for a renegade look. So this video helped me take them off, although I might just paint the Handguard while it’s on and tape block, seems a lot harder to take off then the stock
I didn't try to remove the forestock so it may well be difficult to remove. When these rifles first came out many years ago now you could get replacement real wood stocks for them. Sadly they don't seem to be available anymore.
@@RetroSteamTechOh I wanted to ask you, do you think it will be alright/helpful to lubricant the action/bolt so that the lever action feels a bit smoother? Or do you think that might harm it? I wanted to see if I could make the action smoother with lubricant, if it even does anything at all if I lube it.
@@RetroSteamTech15:29 EXACTLY how your action got stuck, mine does the EXACT same thing, but even when there are cartridges inside of it. That was the exact lock up im talking about. What could be the problem? it happens almost on every single round I cycle. Its been taking all the fun out of using it :( please help
Are the iron sights on this removable at all? I love the blacked out renegade version but hate the oversize cocking handle. So I would either want to have this version and remove the iron sights. Or swap the cocking handles over and put the smaller one from this rifle on the renegade
The aluminium casting that holds the CO2 cartridges in place has a fine thread and can be difficult to locate properly. It might pay you to remove the butt stock and see if the threads are damaged.
@@user-ns3qm6ue1k If you watch my video you can clearly see where it screws into the tube which extends from the gun's receiver. Once you have removed the butt stock, you might find it easier to screw in the casting correctly. If the threads are damaged that might help to fix them.
I have called Umerex a few times over the years trying to get a replacement Co2 piercing assembly with NO success. They say they don't make extra parts. I will try these 2 places.
The hammer is just for show, it doesn't actually do anything. Mine is the same, it is a little loose and doesn't strike when fired because it's not suppose to.
@@EndoEnnard1 I love them because it is the only Winchester replica air rifle that actually ejects the shells just like the real gun. Also, as you say, you can load it just like a real Winchester. Even though they do have a few faults, they are still great air rifles.
After I got the stock off. The piercer was screwed in just fine. I was able to unscrew it and screw it in without no problems. That was without a cylinder in it. I was told by the umarex company that you were only supposed to use umarex CO2 cylinders . The Umarex co2 cylinders was longer than the rest so could that be the problem? I uses co2 crossman cylinders.
Well good news that the thread wasn't damaged. I have heard that the neck of the CO2 cartridges do vary slightly between manufacturers, so that could have been the problem. I use Umarex CO2 cartridges and have not had any problems.
@@BaileygaskellGaskellWhat do you mean by barrel wobble? Could you post a short/video here on RU-vid of what it is? Him and myself both do modifications and know this system pretty well. I’d interested to see it and try to help.
@@KiLLJOY1056 Basically the whole barrel and magazine tube assembly wasn't fitted tightly And wobbled left and right so I mended it with a similar method to the umarex saa Which use I removed the front barrel a magazine to assembly took a section of a can folded it over wrapped it roand then shoved it all back together and that made it tight enough to stop the wobble
