Amico sei fortunato,perche hai trovato un videoregistratore mai usato quindi nuovo,e nonostante ha 38 anni i condensatori funzionano e non hanno perso elettrolitico,ottimo!
I legit laughed at how delicately you put that tape in there dude. I remember, being a kid, and smashing those things in there lol (In hindsight, was probably not a great iadea) Nice video!
Only thing I’d worry about with that TV is with capacitors leaking over time with it being cooped up for so long… but they seem to be good enough for a good picture and clear sound!
Honestly I thought the tv set was on channel 3 when I turned it on. That is why I was really confused. Most of my digital tuning based tv's start on channel 3 when I first plugged them in.
After recording the video I checked and the belt looked perfect so I left it alone. I was quite luck though since I know some belts like to change back into goop.
I recommend not putting as many cuts as you do in your videos, but awesome find and good video otherwise. Also, what did you put in the head to lubricate it? I have a vcr from 1980 and the head is seized but I don’t wanna put the wrong thing in it and mess it up
I am by no means an expert on VCR units as i have only fixed a few but I used a little bit of isopropyl alcohol (91 percent) where the sticky grease/oil was and it seemed to free it up pretty well after moving the head around by hand. i also used a very thin oil. it seemed to work perfectly afterward. Also thank you for the input on the video i will keep it in mind.
Once I dealt with a drum in a mid '80s Akai that was frozen solid, and just for fun I sticked a screwdriver in one of the holes on the top of the drum, and smacked the handle of the screwdriver. The bearing freed up with a big cracking sound and the VCR was working for years after this, although the drum was quite noisy. But I don't recommend this bodge method as it can even break the rotary transformer. This was a 20 years old, worn out VCR in the early '00s, it was its last chance and there was nothing to loose, that's why I've done it. If the bearings are not worn, just the grease dried in, mix some sewing machine oil and WD40 or penetrating oil (the kind that is used for loosening corroded screws), about 1:1 ratio and add a few drops of that into the bearings (immediately after mixing them, don't wait because the solvents of the penetrating oil evaporates). The bottom bearing is usually accessible if you remove the rotor from the drum motor, but to access the top bearing, you have to take apart the head drum completely, separate the two halves of the rotary transformer. Be very careful as there are very thin, custom selected shim washers on the shaft both from the top and the bottom bearing's side, don't loose them or mix them up, as these set the distance between the two halves of the rotary transformer and between the bottom bearing and the rotor of the drum motor. Don't let the lubricant to seep into the rotary transformer, it might damage the glue that holds the windings. If you go this far, you might look up the number on the bearings and order new ones, but that can be risky because the thickness of the bearings have a lot higher tolerance than their diameters, so the original shim washers might not be good for the new bearings. Try to mark the position of the shaft to the position of the drum motor rotor holder plate, because that's what describes the head switching point (PG signal), you will have to readjust that after you're done. The adjustment is electronic with a trimmer pot, but the mechanical position of the PG signal has to be within a few degrees where it originally was, because the range of the electronic adjustment is limited. And be careful not to flip the heads when you reinstall the upper drum.
Just a minor criticism - your phone's camera is constantly moving for no apparent reason. There's no time for the viewer to focus on anything whilst your phone's darting around randomly.
