hi, i have built this kit and it took around 45 hours it was a fun build with a few choice words.......... it is one to try your sanity lol, my research was from world war one .BUT when we moved it got destroyed by movers after specific instructions from myself .They was not adhered to. Beyond repair .........Was not happy just to say i did take my time and cost out of the fee they charged me . Also picture of packing box witch was marked fragile before they packed and before they took it of the lorry .Which was buried under some heavy boxes. Who ever gets this model to build just take time and READ instructions very carefully. And good luck.
I just found one on E-bay for $140.00 with free shipping, and I also got an additional $5.00 credit from E-bay from a late delivery guarantee of a previous purchase a couple of weeks before. The grand total was $135.00, so I decided to just go ahead and get it. You won't find that deal very often, and in fact, I've only seen it twice at $140.00. I ordered it the 1st time I saw one at that price, but the order was cancelled by the seller because it was discovered to be damaged. They average $160.00 and higher, plus 30-40 shipping, but can sometimes be found on E-bay for $150.00, and if you are really lucky, shipping will be free.
@David Meinke - The model is not meant to be covered so you can view all the various and numerous details from a structural standpoint. I built Hasegawa's 1:8 scale Fokker DR1, a much more detailed kit with many metal parts and a wood prop. I would never think of covering all that fuselage and wing detail that I spent so much time on. I believe that's why it's called a museum model.
@@Loulovesspeed These models are called "Museum Models" for only ONE reason, to $ELL them to those who have never seen a real WWI aircraft bereft of covering. The cross-sections of all of them are grossly oversized. They'd all look far more realistic covered and properly airbrushed.
They are British markings . The French are the other way . Its a bit confusing . I presume that being the British and French had the same colours neither were willing to change or drop their colours to please the other. So they compromised by altering the positioning of the colours . . I believe the French were first to use roundels ,but with a blue dot ,on white ,and then a red outer ring . The British were still using the Union Jack . But dropped it in favor of the roundel , but to show they were British decided to paint the colours the other way with the red dot followed by white and blue outer ring. . Because the tricolour is red white and blue . the British same colour scheme had to be reversed. Hence blue white and red on the tail fin. This is only my theory . Please feel free to respond with polite answers only.
Why do people comment without knowledge? Don't they realize it makes a person look rather foolish? The British and the French used front to rear blue white red, period. The Americans had the colors reversed AFTER an initial stint of (F-R) white, blue red on their Nie. 28's. That is except in the 27th Aero Squadron where a few had their N. 28 rudders painted Red, Blue White front to rear. Why don't you go check out some of the period color photos of these things taken during the First World War, that is provided you think I'm wrong.
This looks to be all plastic ! I have an old Hasegawa SE5 and that is all wood, even the incorrect rudder frame, which I am sure was steel tube on the original, that is why it still lays in it's box !
@Paul Lubliner - Obviously it is not a working engine - what he meant was, is it a plastic representation of a rotary or radial engine. It is a plastic rotary engine.
Sorry. but you are wrong. Do look at any period Orthochromatic B&W image and understand and realize the red rendered out as dark whilst the blue, very light. Look at the cocardes on the wings if you doubt!
I think I will buy this one and do it first before I do the original wooden kit lol because the wooden kit looks a lot harder than this one...I could be wrong but I cant afford a OOOPSY...LOL
There is no correlation from one to the other. This kit has the wings, fuse etc. pre-assembled as molded. ZERO skill needed. Your displayed angst suggests you build this thing and put the good and wooden kit onto eBay.
@WOOD BUTCHER - You say "original wooden kit". Are you referring to the Hasegawa 1:8 scale kit? If so, that kit is much more detailed with 857 parts. That said, if you have built any model kits before, you should have no problems with the larger scale kit. I built one some 23 years ago and had no difficulty whatsoever. Hard to build - no. Time consuming - yes. Actually, it was one of the most enjoyable builds I've made in my 65 years of modeling and the final result is stunning!
If your still looking for someone to build this kit into a (partially) covered (with japanese silk) Camel; I would be quallified & willing, just let me know. Cheers.
+Flying Dutchman WoT/WoWs Gameplay TV One of our staffers did build this up, but thanks for the offer. :) aeroscale.co.uk/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=224805&ord=&page=1
is there a way that I can see it? I'm planning to build this kit myself and can't wait to see what others have done with it. It should build into a marvelous kit.
+Flying Dutchman WoT/WoWs Gameplay TV It does look good indeed :) I would prob avoid the trouble with the wires getting in the way of parts by installing turnbuckles but I can understand why Hasegawa doesnt make you attempt it. Also I would use some Alclad for the metal parts and black for the brackets in the frame but than again I'm probably spoiled by all the Roden & WNW kits over the last few years :) Thanks for the link, I appreciate it.
