I am really enjoying your videos! I have a 1982 Corvette and have just begun the disassembly process and your videos are very helpful. Thank you! Looking forward to the next one.
I’m not a Corvette guy, and especially that generation, but cars are cars, and these things are universal. Glad to see you used the backing washers. It was my first thought.
I restored Corvettes for over 30 years and I would suggest that you paint the engine compartment with Krylon Semi-Flat Black, it will give you a factory appearance and will look better.
Love the vette videos man, I bought a c3 and it’s almost in the same condition as yours. Im learning a lot from your videos about what to look out for and ideas on how how to tackle certain situations/problem when I get to them. Please keep us updated on your progress! Learning a lot from you o.g.
I OWN A 1977 CORVETTE, THAT IS WHY I HIT SUBSCRIBE AND LIKE FOR SURE.KEEP THOSE C3 VIDEOS COMONG AND I WILL CONTINUE TO WATCH AND HIT LIKE THANKYOU LOL RUSS BOYD...
The thing with wiring looms on your own car is this, after awhile like magic in fact, you get to just look at the harness on the floor and know where every plug, connection and terminal goes. I don't know how it happens but it does. You haven't quite built up the mental inventory of harnesses yet as you're still in the intimidation phase but it will come from necessity when you find out how much auto elecs charge LOL - true that! What you need is a proper wiring diagram, for without it it is like guessing where say a particular street is in a particular suburb of a particular town without a map ie it is ridiculously difficult so you don't bother. Get a wiring diagram and the harness will unlock its secrets.
After that silicone dries, pull that carp out of there and clean the area to prep it for that 2 part epoxy that mixes while traveling through the tip. That 2 part panel adhesive would also be a better choice than what you splorked in that crevice too. And with the adhesive you can use a piece of sheet metal bent 90 degrees to go in that corner as a backer that will bond to both sides and will be structurally more gooder. The backer sheet metal doesn't have to go all the way up and down it can be several pieces about 1" by 3" bent to bridge that corner. That panel adhesive is some tough stuff that is used instead of welding panels on but make sure it will stick to fiberglass before using it. If it doesn't I'm sure there is an epoxy made that will work the same as mentioned. But instead of sheet metal as a backer the fiberglass mesh. Put the fiberglass epoxy in one corner of a plastic bag and cut the corner off to get the epoxy where you want it or wear a rubber glove and just use your finger.
Funny, I rewatched all the old episodes of this about a week ago wondering when the next part would come out. I have an 80 C3 myself that's getting a 454 swap! I haven't installed it yet but my understanding is that the painless harness is the way to go for rewiring these things, I've seen many people do it and nobody had any complaints. I want to delete the HVAC until I can afford Vintage, they are pricey, but I don't know that I'd survive being in Florida with no AC in the summer! We will see what I end up doing.
The engine bay looks a lot better than it did and at least the black paint add some more protection. At the worst that paint can always be sanded but you should be okay. 😇
watched a vid re: heater core replacement, immediately went to my corvette guru because HE would know what and how to do it without screwing up my 9,000 mi 1982, like i would have certainly done
I am finishing up a 79 Corvette Restomod (frame off). I've owned the car about 35 years. I bought it from my Dad when he got another one. If you want unsolicited advice, save the old harness in case you need connectors. I put a 5.3/4L60 in mine with Vintage Air, Dakota Digital Gauges with BIM Modules and a painless "Universal" harness. I bought spray in bed liner (2 part) and used it in the engine compartment, inner wheel wells (to protect against rocks hitting bottom side of fender) and the underside of the car. If you are interested, I also converted to electric power steering and electric motors on the headlight doors. I did all new bushings, bearings, seals in front and rear. New Calipers, Master Cylinder, Booster & lines (hard and rubber). New tank & Pump (TanksInc.com). Shifter kit & trans cross member from BowtieOverdrives.com. When I finish with the 79, I will finish up the LS1 in my 64 Chevelle Malibu SS Convertible then I have a 65 Big Block Corvette Convertible to start on. It is NOM so not sure what I will do with it yet. Both tops, side exhaust, 4 speed.
whadda project! went back to find how you got yr "basket case" vette, and since i've followed how you stripped it down, i gotta think it was submerged at some point fm the nasty rust pattern throughout
I'm interested on how you plan to address those body mounts on the backside of the kickplate. That is the bottom of the birdcage and will need to be addressed. Probably why there was a hold rusted on the inside of the fender and the panel was separating. How did the windshield frame look about it?
i think you mention "budget" build - wouldn't paper be cheaper then steel ? to make a pattern ? - once you remove the body from the frame "it's a body off" project ! FYI 😄
OK, gotta question. I have the body off the frame and have the frame ready for sand blasting and powder coating. I'm going for a full on resto-mod car so I have a 5.7 litter being rebuilt with a new 4 speed automatic transmission that will sit on the frame with upgraded suspension. I'm lost when it comes to the heating and air conditioning. Are you going to replace this?
hi , ripping out factory heating /Air con for cough cough vintage air geeeeez Many a good rebiuld gone adrift when this is done . Any GM product has alot of wiring when fitted with AC just need to follow GM work shop manual . Identifies ALL mounting /routing and connection Most difficult part is repairing all the dodgy ""up grades""