A few comments about the VoltStick. You may notice I had damaged a resistor when removing the handle. This is not the actual problem. I had checked most of the components and believe I had damaged the main IC. One thing that was different about the last test is you will note the unit was not powered as the old generator has no way to bias the output. I do not know how this played into the failure but it was a difference. And finally, I think if you could remove the metal contact button, you could remove the handle to gain access if you wanted to take one apart without using brute force like I did.
Great review! I think i will buy this model, for the simplicity of operation compared to UT18. I just did't get one of the comments, about the continuity test. Will it buzz in resistances in the order of tens of kOhms?
Hello I had basic Benning duspol which was a gift from my father. Sadly I lost it in all the chaos that happened last year when he died ... So I was looking into this voltstick but I'm concerned in safety? Is it safe to be used for basic around the house things
The channel really doesn't look at safety, only how robust the meters are. I would buy from one of the major brands and make sure the device is rated for the environment is all.
Thanks for great review. I have this (ut15c) one. It works... And I want a multimeter. In my country fluke 107 and unit ut195e are same price maybe unit ut195e 5 dollars cheaper. Which one do you recommend? Yes they are totally different but I only want quality and safety. Thanks in advance... Your videos are educational and I love them.
Continuity test there is a joke, it will show anything below 400k as continuity. Continuity buzzer is a simple transistor using the battery voltage applied to the probes by high value resistors, so you will see some voltage on the terminals if you use a high impedance ( 10M input will drop it down a lot to under 1V or so) so no surprise it passes the test. Negative probe side you will find a 250k or so resistor inside the insulation.
+SeanBZA The negative probe has less than 0.1 ohm of resistance from the tip to the connection to the PCB. It then goes through two PTCs in series. The first is 540 ohm, the second 1K. From there, it attaches to a MOV that is attached to the positive probe tip using a wire that runs the length of the probe. The positive probe is made from one part. This makes up the first layer of protection.
+joe smith Then they have improved things over the original Steiner multi test. One will probably be a VDR for the LED string, so they run at a sort of constant current through some voltage divider, with the LEDS in a string.
+SeanBZA I can't comment on if it was improved or not as this is the only one I looked at. The LEDs (for the voltage) are driven from two National LP339s. Each anode has it's own resistor, all tied to a common source. The six comparators have a common + with the - going to the divider stage. Simple enough. Because the unit will run from the power supplied to the +/- leads, it draws a fair amount of current.
Oh, in their datasheet @ 1:37. This device is not designed to be connected for an indefinite length of time. It uses divider networks and they can only dissipate so much heat. So they limit you to a maximum of 30 seconds to make your measurements, then you need to allow it to cool down.
+Gooberslot I attempt to test the meters the same way when I can. This UT15C for example had to have AC applied without batteries when tested to avoid the beeper from being active through the test. This would have caused the meter to fail by other means. In the past I have skipped sections of the tests. Both the first Fluke 87V and the UNI-T UT139C were tested this way. This led to a lot of confusion on the part of the viewers. In the end I reran both meters to find where they failed.
+joe smith Yeah, but this meter was actually subjected to quite a few more pulses than most of them due to you also testing the metal button. Don't MOVs eventually wear out from repeated surges? I'm not a Uni-T fan or anything; just curious.
+Gooberslot I can fully understand how you would jump to this conclusion. It's a lot to take in so let me give you some numbers to consider. I ran 1K (not shown because I edited it out by mistake), so 8 voltage levels, 5 +/- transients with the new generator at the leads. This is 80. I then ran the button both +/- at one level on both leads, or 20 more transients. Then I ran one set with the old generator again +/-, or an additional 10 transients. For a grand total of 110 transients. I am sure this seems like a lot if you have not watched any of my other videos. Let's consider a simple meter like 5ky's Fluke 107. This meter has 7 functions (I never run transients with the current). This meter saw 7 functions * 2 +/- * 8 levels * 5 transients, with the new generator or 560 total. It was then tested at at two more higher levels 7 * 2 * 2 * 5 or 140 more transients. So 700 total. It then went on to take several more hits at even higher levels before failure. Consider the Fluke 101. This meter was part of the original tests where it was subjected to 11 levels. Then it was retested on the new generator. It has even been on the half cycle line simulator. I have yet to have it apart. Then we look at meters like the Brymen BM869s. This thing is very feature rich. All of these features are tested. Testing a meter like the Brymen requires several hours (I would guess that was more than a half day to run that one meter!). That said, you are right in that some meters fail VERY early on in the test cycle. The UNI-T UT61D/E and Extech 430 for example saw ZERO of these transients because they could not even pass some very basic testing without failure. As for the life of the MOVs and other components on the first stage of protection, they should be designed to handle the real IEC standard. What I subject them to is very low in energy compared with the real test. Again, I am not trying to blow the meters apart. I just want to know which are more robust than others. I have not seen a MOV fail during any of these tests. I have seen the front end resistors and PTCs fail at times but these are pretty rare. Normally the circuitry down further fails. More often than not, it takes out the control IC and it is game over. I have a video where I showed some different capacitors charged to various energy levels and shorting them to a plate to give viewers an idea of how much energy I was using. 20 Joules is not much and most of the meters tested fail below 10 Joules! Most of this has been discussed in detail on the eevblog site. Feel free to join in if you have other questions.
