I purchased one of these in December 2020, $470AUD with free DHL shipping from Hong Kong. I love it, great for electronic work and such bang for the buck when you consider the thermal resolution.
Do you still rate it? Have you ever tried to test how accurate it is? Have you tested a hot spot with the thermal camera vs a IR thermal gun? I just bought one.
@@ibsn87 It's my number 1 goto tool for shorts. Some boards I get will have a failed cap, like a 100uF 16V tiny bugger. I stick a current limted 2 amp supply @5V on the rail and look for the cap that is slightly warmer than background, works every time. The IR guns are complete crap unless you are testing someones forhead. Additionally the thermal camera is so sensitive that if you put your hand on a gyprock wall for 10 seconds and walk out of the room, someone using this cam can see where your hand was for the next minute. The high res is so welcome. Honestly I cannot fault it for the money as it punches above it's weight. As to accuracy it can discern temp quite well which is what I use it for but if the actual component is 0.5 degree or 1 degree above ambient I do not know and in my case it doesn't matter. For example if you pull an ice cube from the freezer it shows it as -13 degrees and as it warms it gets to 0.5 degrees and stays there as it melts. It also shows the temp of the sink as 26.3 simultaneously. You can calibrate it however if you need very accurate readings.
@@Tokentools-weldersAu awesome, thanks for the detailed reply. I agree that specific temp accuracy is less important than being able to see differential in temp. I think this will be the case for what I need. I feel good about my purchase after your reply! Thanks again for taking the time to get back to me!!
It's $530 now on Amazon. I ordered the HIKMICRO B20 for same price that has similar features but includes WiFi casting, 25 Hz refresh rate, and Max/Min temperatures displayed.
Dont forget that there is a debate whether that thermal resolution is indeed the physical resolution of the sensor or it is an interpolated resolution. It seems many people have serious doubts about that spec
To record video with this camera I use OBS instead of the Windows camera app and it works great, although framerate drops. Also, using an OTG cable you can also record using smarthphone, so you can record on the fly. The resulting video is only what is shown on screen, no data or visible image. My camera firmware is v1.1.2
This application of connecting the camera to the cell phone through the otg cable is very good, I have never seen anyone talking about it.. What application do you use on your cell phone to take pictures?
This is much better than expected. If i walk on the floor barefoot, my footsteps will be clearly visible! Also the quality feels very good! One hint if using indoor/outdoor. Its a bit sensitive for ambient temperature, so keep the camera for a few minutes in the intended environment, the You get very accurate readings. Can recommend for homeowners or checking hot spots in electronics or engines!
I have one on the way from BG. It was out of stock for many months. Looking forward to finding all the hot spots around my house. Thanks for all you videos.
I've got an old and formerly very expensive FLIR i7. It doesn't do a lot but what it does it does great. What really stinks about it though is the support and the software. I think the software is what makes or breaks such a camera, the display is nice to get information on a glance, ensure the correct settings and make sure you capture everything you want to capture but where those cameras really shine is the after-the-fact image analysis (or "report generation") and that is where FLIR really sucks. The free FLIR Tools have been last updated 2014,only a few months after I bought the camera... They're slow, they lousy, effectively abandonware and this camera doesn't have the required firmware to do live capture so you have to go through a rather time consuming shoot/analyze cycle... I'd really love to hear how good or bad the UNI-T software is... whatever my next thermal camera will be, it's definitely not going to be from FLIR.
Hi, Just watched your video after I got my own UTi260B today, I'm very happy with it. In your video you say that it's only possible to capture video in the provided software. But I use my UTi260B in OBS without problems to capture the thermal video stream. (however it only works with direct cable to my PC, not via USB3 hub).
@@camiemengineer , yes that is correct. I tried two different USB3 hubs and it didnt work. But when connecting it to a USB3 typeA port on my desktop computer it works
..... Well done Mate, I have a C5 and it has a sleep & a hard shutdown. Power up from a hard shutdown takes 7 years, a little quicker from sleep power up. After a few days sleep it will auto full shutdown or it can be forced by holding down power button for 15 sec. P.S The FliR logo permanence does piss me off.
I did a review on one of these a few months ago, I like my one quite a lot. The only trouble is I’m getting a lot of reports of them being out of stock and people are having to wait a long time to get them.
@@voltlog I ordered from Banggood from Defpom's link and it said it was in stock. The next day I got an email saying it would be more than a month. It took 25 minutes of chat before Banggood would issue a refund. I ordered it from the UNi-T store on AliExpress for $60 less than the Banggood price.. It is even less now. Uni-t shipped it the next day. I had in 10 days after I ordered. I have had the same experience of month+ delayed order and difficult refund the last time I tried to order from Banggod. I will never order from the Bozos at Banggood again.
@@Chris_Grossman WOW! I have never used Banggood and now you have made me wary. The refund problem is 180° diametrically opposed to what I'm used to from Amazon. I'll go to AliExpress .. Thanks for the tip.
Alignment between visual and heat is shit on *literally* every single one of these things, right up to the FLIRs that cost ten grand. A little bit more or less shit, maybe - but that’s just not how these things work. The two cameras are side by side so you get parallax, that’s just physics.
There is a lens available for this model on the internet to bring cameras closer to electronic component. The price of the lens is about 30 to 40 euros, HD Mini Ultra Macro Lens Use for UTi260B UTi85A Thermal Imager, Special for Mobile Phone Maintenance, New.
I have that camera and the alignment with visible picture is pretty ok, but you don't really need that as thermal reaolution is high enough to see all details. Also, a tip, you could buy cheap macro lens (used in CO2 laser) and you get macro focus point. That FLIR is no competitor
is there another lens mod to make it kind of useful for spotting animals in lets say 100m of distance? That would be interesting and fun when having a walk in the forest for example. Im looking for a reasonable priced thermal camera and the seek compact pro is interesting but its slow Hz. I found a chinese alternative with the GUIDE MobIR 2S which is the first thermal cam with autofocus for mobile phones but its only for android devices and you have to install the app from their chinese website which i dont trust. Thats why the Uni-T is probably the one to get, the only concern is the non exchangable battery.
For saving images just press the trigger twice. The camera is picky on video capturing software, I had success with e.g. Free2X Webcam Recorder. Someone already decoded the image file format, so one can do postprocessing or whatever you like!
It really depends on the use. For the typical homeowner, someone who just needs a toolbox camera, or maybe for some computer troubleshooting, these cheep little cameras do the trick just fine. When serious thermal analysis needs to be done in a professional setting or when you NEED to know the temperature of a something, I'd buy a FLIR. They cost alot more but...well let's just say that you get what you pay for.
I used the flir professionally. In reality. This would have done the job 99% of the time and we could have had 9 of them for the price we paid for the FLIR.
Hi, are you still using this Thermal Imager? I've had bad thing happened to me, I just bought it and when I firstly charged it fully it started to make whistling sound and wouldn't turn on anymore. It died completely. I have two questions. How do I disable it? I haven't found any information on the internet, it has some sort of secret I think. It's very tricky or they did it like this on purpose. 2. Important question to me, I measured resistance between 5 volts and gnd on the Type C connector. It shows 200 to 210 ohms. It's not full short circuit, but close. If you have such a chance, can you tell what's your resistance? P.s still cannot understand how it could happen. It looks awesome. Amazing quality. Best brand. And it dies after first charge....
Is there any software that can allow analysis of a saved pic - like measuring temps at specific locations - or generate a plot of T vs time at a location for a saved video?
Hello, would you recommend the UTi260M version? has about the same specs, but is cheaper, about 270$. I want to use it mostly for heat loss of my house, pluming, electrical fuses, etc.
I am using flir e4 with hacked FW to e8 specs. It has better resolution (320x240). And I use 3 different Co2 laser focusing lens (ZnSe) for closeup shots. The only issue I have it is annoying slow 9hz update rate. And stupid network connectivity to download picture of course.
We have a FLIR TG267 at work and the two pictures is not aligned well on that either. It would be interesting to buy this one and compare it with the TG267.
No, the scale fully automatic, it is main disadvatage when you inspecting buildings outdoor, the cold sky overexposure all warm objects, this loose contrast and main details.
I would've continued to use my small FLIR ONE, even though not high resolution I was getting reasonable results. But the accident happened so I ended up getting the UNI-T.
I have a UTi260B and firmware version is 1.2.2, also does anyone have a working software for it? I can't seem to make their software work on windows 10, UNI-T Live Screen i think it's called version 1.58.
I just purchased this thermal imaging camera and the manual says do not switch off the device while charging does this mean I have to leave the unit on while charging? Or can I just plug-in the USB cable while the unit is off and will it charge? The instructions are very clear
i went with a phone that has a flir inside, yes its the awful 80x60 resolution but whats a goodtthermal camera? the one you allways got on hand and dont forget at home still this is a big deal. definately some competition for the lower end market seek allready did push ahead flir by releasing a camera with more than 9hz refresh rate (Fastframe models) flir is just like intel, they sitting on their green because nobody really kicked their ass for too long, this will change someday
Is your uti260b camera still working? I purchased one and it just died after one charge. While charging after an hour or more, just died and that's it. Does not react or turn on. It is said that it has a serious problem of the manufacturer. When charging it just burns. I found no evidence of anything burned inside it. Is your camera still working for you? There are no spare parts at all for her.
@@florincocos1099 My camera gets warm while charging. So what type of charger do you use to charge it, especially since the charger is not included with it?
@@voltlog Is it normal for this camera to get warm during charging, or is this a problem? I am currently charging it through the computer. Does your camera get warm during charging or not ?And another thing, I connected it to the bench power supply and noticed that it was drawing 1,455 amps
Topdon TC004 or Uni-T UTi260B? Can’t really decide - specs seem close and I need the one that has a clearer image for working with small smd components and a better software updates/support. What would you recommend?
@@ibsn87 same and so far so good. Macro lens is cool btw, but can’t say it is necessary. It depends on your workflow. Btw don’t even expect any updates for it - I failed to find a way to get any info on that. But it works well as is.
@@in_sympathy thanks. Good to know. Interestingly I’ve read lots of negative reports of FlIR cameras with terrible after sales support and terrible software. So if they can’t sort that out, may as well buy a uni T. I remember being shocked at how good uni T build quality was 15 years ago when I bought one of their cheap multimeters. My father bought a FLIR ONE PRO, and it self discharges itself over a week leaving the lithium battery dead flat unless you constantly top it up.
i have same camera and it do hanging when i set low gain or high gain it become freeze so i have to turn it off then trund on to work again do you have this proplem?
i hope .dose it take more then one minute or longer my video shows that i turn it off after maybe 1 one minute should i let it longer ... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aDY6xTXkFVY.html@@voltlog
Possibly. The temperature of the pipes would have to be different enough from the wall such that it warms or cools the wall that's directly adjacent to the pipes. If the wall is insulated this will be unlikely.
I have seen that product but it feels a bit expensive at $50. I haven't had time to design a holder but it could be built for about $20 if you can 3D print the holder yourself.
From what I see on banggood and aliexpress, you can't get the 260B anymore and it has been replaced with the 690B which appears to have identical specs. But what is strange is that the 690B is not listed on UNI-T own website so I don't know what's happening here, might be worth sending an email to UNI-T to ask them about it.
Looks like it could with this github.com/Santi-hr/UNI-T-Thermal-Utilities But you would need to play around to create a video stream from pictures generated though, it does not look like a straight forward solution unfortunately.
@@LeaveMeForeverAloneaccording to a guy i asked, this camera can work as a normal webcam on linux, just with reduced FPS. If someone manages to make it work at high-fps, then this camera (with some mods) can become an incredibly affordable surveillance thermal camera, or even drone-mounted
is there any sample of images made with this camera like real file? Is same file thermal image and visible light image? There is software for after processing images?
does it work.. a thermal camera for temperature measurements.. how well does it do that??..looking at that soldering iron.. how long had that soldering iron been off as in showing 33.5 degrees as the hottest part? 11:21 550 degrees is pretty high for a budget device, but if it's only for thermal display and the actual measurement is fluke'ish as best.. the whole purpose takes a tumble. Flir entry thermal cams.. are only doing thermal display and the measurement is done by one of these single points like a normal laser IR thermometer.. this clearly ain't that.. but a shame you dont check if it's good or not in taking temperature measurement... pretty straightforward to check it, and you don't need a black body reference box.. household things like ice or how water will give you a good indication of the accuracy.. another thing I was little unsure about and that can literally tumble a good thermal budget camera.. is the delay if the SoC is one slow m-t.f..then it can be a solid 25Hz on paper but in practice it will feel rubbish, not least in lack of a dedicated video feature, but I sadly cant conclude it from your footage and you don't mention it.. but from some of your hand movements.. it does look like it takes a long time before the display reacts to that movement. 7:07 Massive time delay from action to screen.. will undermine many use-cases for live view and if that's the case, it's ia shame now when they finally promoting a 25Hz microbolometer device and not the restrictive ITAR 9Hz limitations people usually have been familiar with on thermal budget tools where the US were the main supplier for ages. thx for the vid.
@@DeckCain Your not gonna get decimal reference units, but it definitely needs to show that is works and it is accurate according to spec...just saying that all thermal cameras are bad for temperature measurements aint correct. RU-vid channels like MJlorton checked some thermal cameras many years ago, some were quite good..some were not. looking at readings like above 11:21 you gotta wonder where this falls in line and on these gun-style thermal cameras temperature accuracy is even more important as your literally not using these for videos and likewise. my other critic point where the total lack of relating to what delay it is operating with...hurra for 25hzz,, but if the delay is like 1 sec.. then it makes it worthless for live feed measurements. same when it comes to how accurate the crosshair is and how narrow a temp reading it can manage, from the surrounding enviroment... I check my old Seek Pro FF that I purchased for 300USD in early 2017.. here is an example. it is surprisingly accurate for such a dongle gimmick..no problem with way under 1mm and the cross-hair accuracy is way lower even with multiple macro-lenses on top..ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FKDunIxtMQk.html you can see when my crosshair is in the heating element and when it ain't around 1.20m into the vid. (tip to tip is 1.2mm and it separating with at least a fraction of that.. likely around 0.1 to 0.2mm without any issues.). will check it with a DIY black body reference
@@JAKOB1977 Would be great to see your temperature measurements. In my experience every Seek device shows its own, unique and different temperature for same object. Pretty sad all such affordable thermal cameras lack of manual calibration.
@@DeckCain The biggest problem with infrared measurement is the surface material.. if it's glossy it will fluke the measurement massively and you need to adjust emissivity accordingly, but sofar It been coming in around values I expected, but in the comming months will do some test with some reference temps, so black and not glossy ..here are soem pictures with Seek Pro (though some of the best I can get out of it). so really not a general display..best of the best for my old Seek Pro FF unit and some of them Ai edited for noise suppr. and details imgur.com/a/dXu32vB but the Seek Pro can supprise.. did not think it could deliver such results i.imgur.com/9PXofmC.jpg
@@JAKOB1977 I know about emissivity issues, but for same object all thermal cameras should show same temperature what is not true in my tests. Subscribed to your channel and wait your tests with anticipation.
@@voltlog - Take a look at Wikipedia: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lightning_(connector) - no way to cut the A-end of a cable, trace and solder the wires to the right connection, so the flir one is now 'tethered'....
@@voltlog - I primarily use USB, not Lightning so I can't help you out which cable to use. Have you tried a break-out connector, I presume it is 'only' a matter of connecting the right points to a working socket - www.aliexpress.com/item/4000748639277.html Here's a successful repair on a USB-C device (on a Flir One Pro though - I have a Seek Compact Pro, so yeah - perhaps not much help, but different views might yield some light and a working fix, not just for you - but others, as it seems Flir is not cooperative on spares for these devices): hackaday.com/2021/03/02/a-flir-one-pro-sees-again-thanks-to-some-nifty-soldering/ Edit: Forgot hackaday link.. Perhaps using it with regular USB and a PC with ThermoVision_JoeC software - some says the internal pcb is the same?
One very important thing you forgot about this camera why it is way superior to flir and fluke. Flir and fluke mostly use 9hz screen refresh rate whereas this baby uses 25 hz... That is like peaches and apples loolz...
I watched a review of a SEEk imager and they said if you get the model with greater than 9Hz, you could not take it out of the country! So it's hilarious that you can import a 25hz.
Conclusion: Cheap Chinese reseller bangood paid him to give a positive review. Ie. There is little if anything to take from this review. It's impossible to know if any of the things said are genuine because he was paid to say them.
@@tjmarx I buy for me self that camera... forth for every money...ok, you have far better cameras closer to Flir!? Maybe some are better... but far expensive in stead.
If you disregard years of hard work I put into building this youtube channel as well the work involved in producing this particular video, then yes you could say it was for free 😀
Anyway this from China it hight ressulotion ir sensors more than Fluke or Flir and lower price than both shitt .....NOW it the end of America and Europe electronic company that hight price but low quality ha ha ha ha
The Flir TG267 is generally 'made' (assembled) in Taiwan and the Bosch GTC 400 is generally 'made' (assembled) in Malaysia; both of these contain a majority of 'global parts' that are sourced from China (just open it up and look at the origin of the components). You're also typing on a computer/cell phone where the majority of its parts were made in full, or in part, in China. There's nothing wrong with Chinese products/components so long as they are spec'd correctly. Some companies decide to build the cheapest products possible and, therefore, they make component manufacturers bid lower and lower on jobs where they start to bid with lower quality components. Unfortunately, some product companies like to buy the cheapest quality components possible to manufacture their goods with as it results in maximum profit.