Saudações! Uma pequena correção. O movimento do vídeo é um espartano Hangzhou 9310, clone do clone série ST-36... Apenas não é decorado como o Sea-Gull. O Hangzhou possui uma vantagem sobre os outros, uma jóia na extremidade da ponta inferior do eixo do tambor da mola principal. Nem Sea-Gull, ETA ou Unitas possuem essa pedra num ponto de grande tensão mecânica lateral mesmo rodando lentamente. 👍
Nice job, I enjoyed watching you take the movement apart. The 6497 is by far and away the best movement to learn on. I know it's difficult to work on a watch with a camera or microscope in the way. I think the reason your screwdriver keeps slipping out of the screw slots is because you have it at a slight angle as you rotate the screws, the screwdriver should always be at 90 degrees to the screw. Well done, I look forward to watching your progress.
Thanks so much for the positive feedback and the advice about how to hold the screwdrivers. I'm getting much better at it, you were exactly right about holding it at an angle. I have more videos in the making but I'm having issues with my computer and editing software getting along at the moment but more are on the way.
Thanks for making a video. I'm right now giving it all I've got to learn this stuff, typing in every word that Alex Hamilton says on "Watch Repair" on RU-vid. Finally, by lesson 11, he begins to share what you've given in one lesson! He's the BEST, for sure; but sometimes one needs a little bit of the "big picture".😂 Thanks for your video. Nice Job!!!
Thanks for that wisdom! I also appreciated what you said to someone else, that it isn't a race! I think the world of the watchmaker is a different one than the one the rest of us enjoy. That is, their mindset, approach, and skill set are all functioning differently for slow motion and a quiet, steady hand. The rest of us must adapt to their mindset and world view if we are to become very skilled watchmakers. That's what your comment helps me to realize. Thanks for sharing.
Well done with the disassembly! I am thinking of starting the hobby myself. The fascination for watches started decades ago, but never had the trust in myself to start. but by watching several videos about watchmaking/repairing i'm getting really confident about it. definitely will follow you on your way. ;) already looking for a Unitas 6497 or 6498. :D
Just trolling through the tube and came across this great vid. The 64977 & 6498 are perfect for those whom wish to learn watch making/repair. I have used these moments (ST36) many times in custom made watches. I noticed you were slipping with the driver, this was probably because the driver head was not wide enough and the angle too steep. Try to match the width of the screw head to the width of the driver blade. And...please...please change that holder! All the best and keep the vids coming. Ben.
Thanks for this video. Im following along with mine , which made things a lot easier for a first timer lol Although now I have to find another video on how to put it back together
Thanks friend. I'm about to take down my first mechanical movement, a 6497 knockoff and I appreciate you posting this along with the name of each component along with those special instructions. I made a list of the parts in the order that they are removed and added some notes of my own, i.e., part orientations, etc. . I will be looking for more of your instructional videos. God bless us all, Mark.
Hi. This is chinese movement, specifically Hangzhou 9011A. Usually original Unitas 6497 and 9498 have 17 jewels, and same is true for clones by Seagull ST36. Hangzhou has additional ruby on the dial side, right under the barrel wheel. Original Unitas, nor Seagull clones dont have ruby there. Hope this helps, because some parts are unique to this movement and replacing them with either original Unitas or Seagull might not work. Ebay sellers usually list all Chinese movements as Seagull, not sure why, but asking price for a Seagull is 10 dollars higher.
Very cool. Can't wait to completely disassemble my first movement. BTW, I think your screwdrivers are slipping away from the screw heads because are not completely perpendicular. You can see it in the video. It usually is at an angle. It happens to me all the time. Practice, practice, practice ;) Two questions: 1. Where do you sourced the movement from? I've seen some Seagull 6497 clones very cheap at eBay, but I wonder if I should go with the real deal 2. Do you plan to put it into use on a watch? It'll be great to create maybe a field watch out of this one.
Hey there, thanks for the comment and tips about keeping the screwdriver perpendicular, You are so right, that is what I was doing wrong. I got the movement off of ebay and it was pretty cheap, around $35 I think. And Yes, I plan to eventually use it on a watch but for now I use it for practice to try to hone my skills. Thanks for watching!!
@@watchasilearn You both are incorrect, the screws are slipping because the facets of whatever screwdriver bit you are using are not finished and the web is also not adjusted to perfectly fit the screw slot. Technique however, is always important.👍
Today i started with my first watch (Baumgartner 582). Unfortunately the crown wheel screw was broken (not because of me), so i have to search an other movement. :-(
That's a great tip. Thanks so much! I was actually trying to keep from causing damage but now that you point it out I can see how I could be hurting the pivots.
You know that's a great question! I'd never noticed that because I had just been using the movement for practice. I had never tried to put it in a case or attach a dial. I wish I could answer your question but at this point in my education....I just don't know.
@@watchasilearn So in my searches I learned that the three holes with sloped edges are for the feet/pegs of the dial. I suppose there are holes along the rim for tiny screws to tighten. The search goes on. I have much to learn. I haven't even taken the movement apart yet.
@@annbstitched Well that's great information. Thanks for sharing. Also, just take your time, it's not a race. Enjoy and let me know when you get it apart and back together and how you liked it.
Yes, I have disassembled and reassembled this movement about 12 to 15 times so far, just practicing my techniques. I feel like it's an old friend now, LOL!
I start looking at many american pocket watches from 1910's 20's 30's and 40's and i think to myself "out of all the great american made movements we had from vintage pocketwatches not a single one caught the attention of swiss watchmakers" and i say this because all the swiss movements i've seen are rather bland and boring they dont have fancy carvings, they dont draw inspiration from anything really, its just a block of steel with "swiss made" written on it and 17 jewels printed on it we dont even get fancy motor barrel/safety barrel with screw set rubies just a plain old steel block thats as boring to look at as a safe door American made railroad grade pocket watches would eat this thing for lunch, the ONLY saving grace this movement has over ALL of the american made railroad pocket watches is simply shock resistance. Does any1 know of a modern pocket watch movement with more then 17 jewels? Listen i love what the swiss have made here, really i do but its a dam shame its 2022 and the go to option to make a pocket watch in 2022 is either the ETA 6497 or the 6498, thats more then 50 years old. I understand wristwatches had to have priority and different movements where developed for wristwatches but what about the pocket watch? its been over 50 years and as far as my knowledge extends this is the ONLY option for a pocket watch to be made in 2022?? No wonder Hamiltons 130th anniversary pocket watch is laughable they charge an obscene ammount of money for a ETA 6497 and a case with "130th anniversary" carved on it at $1,300 i'd rather go on ebay and buy myself a nice Illinois Bunn special 23 jewel at least with that i'd be buying a real piece of american history. Seriously what happened to watch manufacturing all these years ago, is embarrasing man